Ah, good catch on the gallon difference. We deep-southern-Canadians (Florida) tend to forget that difference.

3mpg isn't too bad of a jump, if it isn't causing any problems with cylinder pressures or the timing is too far out. For that, based on my own recent experiences with timing jumping and trashing the head... I wouldn't want to risk it.

With this simple modification, I have 30% more fuel economy on my EVIC L/100km or MPG.
Canadian Evic have Litre per 100km and mpg value, and the program used US galon (3.8Litres) for calculation

From 10L/100km i go to 6.5-7.0L/100km.

My next step will be to install a switch around the 2.5kohms resitance, and go back in original condition when pulling a trailer.

Play with timing is the key factor for fuel economy, ask GDE !

Alright, but the more you mess around with the ECU, the less accurate the EVIC is. On my stock '06 it already reads 3-4 mpg higher than hand-calculated...

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

If I am reading this correctly you say you are getting 38mpg calculated out using the US gallon? Now I am a bit sceptical!

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

I have hit 32 mpg based on US gallons before on long trips. I don't think it is that far out of line.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

Years ago when I worked for a Perkins distributor, we had to advance the injection timing to compensate for the lousy Cetaine. European Cetaine is around 55 our junk on this side of the pond is 40-45 if we are luck. Some of our Biodiesel brethren (non WVO) have higher Cetaine in their brew and their rigs run better especially if the go over the B-20 mark.

The one way we could determine the proper advance resistor would be to get a glow plug adapter that has a Quartz window like the SnapOn Lumi Probe (no longer made). I have a SnapOn Lumi Probe along with adapters for VW and MB left over from my Repair Shop days.
If I had certified 55 Cetaine fuel, I could use the SnapOn Lumi Probe to see where the fuel actually fires and produces visible light (injector pulse timing is no good to make a determination) and shoot the front vibration dampener with a timing light.
Then put in the Cr@p out of the pump and see what the difference is.
Then install a potentiometer and dial in the correct timing advance to get the actual burn advance as the 55 Cetaine.
Measure the potetiometer value with an ohm meter and add in the resistor.

If some one who has removed a Glow Plug knows the thread diameter and pitch, I could see if my VW or MB adapters come close or not. If not I would have to make an adapter and find a Quarts rod to put in the center to use the Lumi Probe.

The other problem is getting the 55 Cetaine test fuel.

Does any one know what Bioblend equals 55 Cetaine?

Or how much PS Cetaine booster has to be added to get 55 Cetaine?

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I have hit 32 mpg based on US gallons before on long trips. I don't think it is that far out of line.[/quote]

Thats 39.57mpg imperial. mmmmmmmmmmm?

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

Thats 39.57mpg imperial. mmmmmmmmmmm?[/quote]

Officially, Canada hasn't used gallons (imperial or us) for years. I have gotten up to 36 MPG in my Jeep on occasion (US). Don't be a hater.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Sounds great. I'm going to do the same but with a 3 position switch. 1= normal unchanged. 2=2.5 kohm, and position 3 will be the 5 kohm gasket killer position.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Officially, Canada hasn't used gallons (imperial or us) for years. I have gotten up to 36 MPG in my Jeep on occasion (US). Don't be a hater. [/quote]

So the goverment tells us. However we use imperial in alot of cases, all construction material is in feet and inches all our farm land is in 1/4 mile sections. When it comes to automotive we put psi in the tires not kilopascals and for most Canadians if you tell them you get 6ltr/100Km they have no idea what your talking about, tell them you get 35mpg, that makes sense. Yes this is the land of confusion, not a hater just a doubter

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

Alright i'm going to try this in a few days and report, i think i'm going to go with 1k or so and then move up to 2k I really dont like the idea of splicing this connector but eah.

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims

So I live in the Detroit area and sometimes listen to Canadian radio stations because their metric FM is cheaper. Does this mean I'm getting metric fuel economy when listing to the Canadian stations too?

On a serious note, my opinion is that signal cheating is not a good idea. The ECU can't tell when it's going beyond design limits. Things break beyond design limits.

_________________
2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.

To CRDMiller
I note you have Inmotion StageII, so more boost pressure and more fuel than stock CRD with F37 decreased engine power.
Modified intake temperature probe is probably not a good idea for you !

BTW, those CRD have US transmission on Metric engine( milimeter bolts)...

I got it wired in during lunch today.
A short test drive showed no noticable change in performance.
Not that I really expected any, just lettin yall know.
Time will tell on the mpg gains.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I put in a 3.3k Resister, in series to pin 2 (second from the right, third from the left)

I've put about 4 miles on it so far and it appears as though i have the same or perhaps less power, while at the same time i have higher boost levels.

Like where i cruise at 5 psi, i'm at 10, and i am able to hit 25 psi more easily
I also seem to have reduced shudder, but that's hard to test on a normal freeway. I will report back with more info soon.

This is strange because, if i have done this correctly, the ecm should think the air charge is significantly cooler, however that would indicate to me that the vehicle would simply over fuel and under boost, cold air is more dense and thus a lesser quantity (volume) is required to provide the same output.

More boost than required = more back pressure than needed, so i'm thinking this is not so good. Also it appears to sound the same as before the resister. SO, who knows.

Again these are simply initial observations.

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims

Flash7210 and CRDMiller: Have either of you checked what intake temperature your scanner is seeing with the mod? It sounds almost like you have have spliced into the boost wire instead of the temp wire which comes from the same sensor.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

-Brown wire with green line is the no 2
-no 2 is writen on plastic connector

nursecosmo, my thoughts are yours, but it's imposable to do the wrong pin, with the document, and the actual pin out molded on the plug .. :P

But i just checked (again) And 100% on the #2 pin, second from the right.

I don't have a way to measure iat.

AND pin number 2, second from, the right, is brown with a teal stripe.

I'm pretty sure were using the same wire/pin :P

edited for spelling

_________________
06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims

Same here.
Same wire.
Did continuity/resistance checks to confirm good connections.

Sorry, no scan gauge.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Ok, i have around 20 miles on a 3.3k resister and i can tell you, it's like having a lot less power.

Usualy when i hit 36 mph i get a nice firm shift and i can accelerate very quickly under light throttle, this is no longer true, also at that point , around 36 mph or so, if i let off the throttle and get back on it, i can get it to hold even lower rpm, witch it can now no longer do (it decelerates where it used to hold steady or accelerate)

Turbo noise is much more pronounced, and power curves seem to be much more flat.
I have to accelerate more heavily (almost like it was stock, but it does not have "holes", it's a linear slowness).

Regardless of my experience, i very highly doubt this is advancing the injection timing any :P.

I have significantly less smoke/no smoke under Heavy throttle, where i would normally have a lot of smoke, for instance at 60+ if i stand up on it, everyone will know about it. I attribute this to higher boost pressures. I'm telling ya, i'm running at least 20% higher boost in almost every situation. While at first this would make me think i'm having better economy, or more complete combustion, well, why does it feel like it has less power? It's SMOOTH and less jumpy, but that's the thing, those "jumps" = hauling booty at particular rpm/gear.

It's really hard to tell when f37 is screwing with me, I can absolutely tell without the resister.

So to summarize;

more boost
less power
more turbo noise (about the only positive)
lllessss smoke, barely even haze at night (maby positive if your scared of diesel)

I may be getting better economy, but I almost don't care.

I'm going to drop a 1k Resister in there and see what happens.
Most likely i'll just solder this back together.

I did not expect the results i got (higher boost) i expected lower boost.
AFAIK this is the only source of intake temperature?

MABY there's a table in there for flow rate at the intake vs baro and intake temp witch it's not seeing properly so it disguards it. Kinda liek what must happwn when your Sensor is clogged with soot and ccv effluent.

Anyway, more boost and less power = BAD there's no way around that.
That boost pressure comes at the cost of greatly increased back pressure, possibly higher egt's in harsh conditions (no egt gauge here) and i've only put it under light work so far.

If nothing else i would advise you to not go past 2.5k or so, you dont want to be near 3k, i can tell you that.

I can see how a little bit more air would be good in some cases, but apparently not this much. Plus what does any of this have to do with injection timing? I'm pretty sure this is not what is happening :P.

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims