Gauge Mount-New Concept-Pics.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:26 pm

I don't think the jeep has a true oil pressure reading through OBDII. It's just a pressure switch that says the pressure is above or below 4psi.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:55 pm

Doc... I'll trade you some info, but I want to know who's gauges those are that they all run on just 3 wires that are shared among all the gauges. That is VERY cool, mounting aside.

The CRD engine produces between 65 and 75 psi at IDLE of oil pressure. Sorry I don't know more than that, but that is what I got from an analog gauge plumbed into the oil pressure sender's hole right opposite of the filter.

My problem with this design is the location of the sender. It is reading the full flow of the oil filter, which presumably is the second stop for the oil after the pump picks it up and installs the pressure. With the sender located there, instead of on the top of the engine or in an oil gallery on the side of the block... All the sender is doing is showing that the pump is working and there is at least 1.5 quarts in the block. 1 quart for the filter, and .5 to be continually picked up by the pump and sprayed into the pressure sender... So the computer / idiot light / driver would NEVER have any idea that the engine was critically low on oil until it was beyond too late.

Kinda like what happened to my engine. I had LOTS of oil pressure... But I also AT THE SAME TIME had a cylinder that was critically starved of oil and disintegrated 10 miles later.

I would hope that had I been using a pressure gauge when the turbo failed, that I would have known that an oil pressure failure had happened... But with a detail sender in that location on the bottom... I'm not sure. To me, the BEST location would be on the oil line that feeds the turbo. It is directly connected to the #1 cylinder at full pressure, so it should show any change in status a lot better than at the bottom.

Any thoughts on how a sender might be installed on that line?

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:25 am

RTStabler51 wrote:

Holy Crap that's alot of gauges.

Times ten brother. Looks good. :SOMBRERO:

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:26 am

linewarbr wrote:

Very cool idea. Very cool. When will it be available for purchase?

X2!

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:28 am

So, how much ya gonna charge to do that to my truck? :goink:

DocB · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:36 am

CATCRD, thanks for that +/- 4 PSI info. Make me feel a whole lot better for right now.

Geordi, the gauges are PERFORMAX from ISSPRO. Check it out.
I am going to look on the block for a plug, as per MrMopar, for a location for the oil sensor.
And I will attempt to use a location near the #1 cylinder. Good idea. If #1 is getting oil than so should the turbo. I think it will be alot easier to install the sensor in the block rather than in the turbo line.
BTW-I was going to use the location near the oil filter because it would be easy, but decided not to because that is where I would like to take the oil for the by-pass filter. Thanks for the info about your situation.
Hopefully we will get to it this weekend and I'll let you know how we made out.

First I am trying to decide whether to plumb the boost sensor into the intake manifold or the intake elbow.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:05 am

I actually put my boost probe (tube) into the plastic outlet for the intercooler. I didn't want to go poking any holes into the intake, and was stupid and didn't think about the FVC housing area being a valid spot either.

Drilling the plastic is easy (for obvious reasons) and with just a rag shoved into the pipe, keeping any shards out isn't a problem either. I still have to go back in and change it to the brass compression fitting, but just using the 'fishtank line' tubing with a T-fitting inside the pipe has been a great seal for me with hardly any oil leakage. Yea, it's redneck... But it works. :SOMBRERO:

Auberon · **Posted:** Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:56 pm

Hey DocB,
I've been studying the manual (sassafrassin nogood CD) and the best I can come up with is that we wud have to put a gauge in line for each oil jet and:
Hope this helps.
On page 9-1592: Minimum oil P (warm) = 0.7 bar (10 psi) @ idle
On page 9-1596: 2 bar @ 3800 rpm
Pressure relief valve opens @ 6.5 bar (94 psi).

I could be corrected but this is the best I can find.
The dang thing is so hard to read as a CD - I think I'm gonna print the whole thing one day one day cos you never know if your lookin' up diesel or petrol specs. The thing just jumps around - of course I've tried to gig with multiple moitors....phooey.

Hey DocB, Jeepers are generally head turners in one way or another but yours - beaut. But ya must be used to that with the Mustang hey.
Loved the yarn 'bout the shotgunning.

Re the tranny temp....the schools still out about where you are best to locate a sensor for tranny oil temp isnt it?
Some argue the inlet (line from your cooler) as this is what it should be receiving - other like to put them on the line out of the tranny before the cooler.
If you use an electric sender then your 3 wire idea will follow - 1 for lights, 1 for signal, 1 to ground.

Cheers
Auberon

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Jan 14, 2010 11:02 pm

I see the need for readily visible informative gauges on the dash, but that set up is an abortion.

DocB · **Posted:** Fri Jan 15, 2010 1:37 am

Auberon,

Good info. And yes, the manual can be quite confusing.

Tranny Temp- I was going to mount the sensor in either the return line or in the bottom of the pan but I have decided that the best place would be the exit line from the tranny going up to the cooler.
Might be more difficult and I have to look for it yet, but I think it will give a more accurate reading of the actual temp inside the tranny, and this is what I am looking for. Not the temp of the fluid after it has gone through the cooling system. Although this is important also, but let's not get crazy.
Got a big list of things to do this weekend under the vehicles.

racertracer- what is it exactly that you don't like about the set-up? Would appreciate your thoughts on this.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:59 am

Ok here is my take on it.

1. The unfinished rear part of the gauges is visible through the windshield from the outside.

2. You have drilled through the dash at a most precarious place to make room for wires that should be hidden.

3. Aesthetically it doesn’t work with the liberty’s dash design.

4. The value of vehicle has drastically depreciated.

DocB · **Posted:** Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:02 pm

Thanks. I'll take those points into consideration.

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