Thats funny there

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2008 KK Liberty Sport NIGHT OPS EDITION + GILLS
OEM & Custom Skids - Factory Tow Package - Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
Prototype JBA 4 Inch Lift - JBA UCA's - Flowmaster Super 44 OR - Whacked Resonator
Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch

I see there stupid commercials about 5 times each night on TV(2-3 hours max of watching),have for some time since they have been produced.

It was the ad with all the people dressed up as different colors making a waving effect along the road as the car drives.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Start with a torque check by tightening them up and record the torque to first move the bolt, release pressure, then measure the torque for the next movement while tightening. The second reading should be more accurate if the bolts are corroded in place. Then back off to about 5-10 nm and retorqued to the spec. Doing them one at a time is fine. Hopefully this eliminates the oil leak for you.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Ok, yea, I know that ad... Still can't remember the last time I've seen it tho. Must be that the major markets of NYC and LA are so silly with them already, that they feel they don't need to advertise there. Since I don't get any programming from any "local" market, thats why I haven't seen an ad recently.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

X2 on tightening up the manifold/valve cover, go with the cheap fix first. If the steam cleaner is not an option due to cold weather, a couple cans of brake cleaner will clean off the oil so you can determine the cause of the leak.

As far as Prius adds go, lately there have been more Prius adds than Political adds in the Chicago area and Illinois just had a primary last week. I guess I am sick of Prius adds.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I tightened most of them except several that were obscured by fuel injectors and/or high pressure lines. I also can't figure out how to get the two on the rear of the engine. Needless to saybolt, the ones I did check were loose. I could easily put another 1/4 turn on each bolt before I heard the click on my torque wrench.

I tightened most of them except several that were obscured by fuel injectors and/or high pressure lines. I also can't figure out how to get the two on the rear of the engine. Needless to say, the ones I did check were loose. I could easily put another 1/4 turn on each bolt before I heard the click on my torque wrench.

I am starting to wonder about all this.
Loose head bolts, spot welded EGR pipes, unenlightened customer service and Mr Wizard has not come back.
Great idea this 4 cyl diesel, 5-6 speed tranny, great idea, Chrysler-Daimler-MV, eehhhhh, I am thinking time to bail out.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

Hey don't feel bad yall... I'm really thinking abt bailing myself. In fact been to a few dealers pricing new trucks... Mine was/is a RMS leak. Been "fixed" 5 times in 6 months. Still leaks badly, and just as you my HOA is yelling at my 4x8 sheet of plywood in my drivway full of oil.

I wish you the best of luck, I love my Libby but after all the egr, front dif, trans, rear diff, rms, and ccv repairs I really think this leak is the last straw for me.

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05 CRD
3" Rough Country Lift
SAMCO SPORT Hoses
Magnaflow Muffler (12226)
CAT 2 Fuel Filter
Fumoto Drain Valve
EGR replaced at 50K
in service 8/31/04
Sold 7/21/10 125k miles
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Paved Roads, another form of unnecessary government spending...

I'm can't bail...wife won't let me but that's ok because I've gotten rid of every stinking darn light that been on my dash for over a year. CEL, ABS, ESP, etc.etc..

Just fixed the my right rear wheel sensor code which triggered a bunch of lights on the dash and disabled my ESP, cruise control, and ABS. The new rear wheel sensor didn't fix the problem but a brand spanking replacement wire run parallel to the existing one fixed the problem. I spliced the solid green wire at the wheel speed sensor plug and ran it to the plug/harness assembly under the driver's side rear passenger seat (same area where I tapped into power for my Kennedy lift pump). I don't know how the green wire lost continuity. The harness was not rubbing against anything and was well clear of the differntial and had standoffs its entire run to minimize chaffing. All I know is the wheel speed sensor wires are very thin and not as flexible as the wire I repalced it with.

Here's what I learned from this experience:

1. Don't pay dealership 110 bucks for an ABS code scan. I found a local independent shop that charged me 25 bucks to scan the ABS system and pull the error code.
2. Replacing a wheel sensor probably won't fix the problem if it is your right rear wheel sensor. Build yourself a 4 foot long jumper cord and check continuity of each of the wires going to the wheel sensor from the harness assembly plug.
3. Don't allow your claustrophic wife (who never told me she was claustrophobic) help you under the vehicle to route and replace the new wire.
4. Be grateful for this wonderful website/forum that gave me several good leads on how to fix this issue.

A big thanks to everyone!