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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 6:32 pm 
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Let you know when I get my engine oil pressure gauge installed. The centrifuge does not even kick on until I reach 35PSI oil pressure and the valve opens up.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:38 pm 
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warp2diesel wrote:
The centrifuge does not even kick on until I reach 35PSI oil pressure and the valve opens up.

I like your idea with a centrifuge.
What do you think about 12v inline oil pump for 60-70 psi constant pressure?
Can we use fuel pump ?

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KJ crd Sport 2006, Stanadyne FM100 (2 micron), inline lift pump, turbo-timer, 245/70/16 Dueler 694 A/T Revo.


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:14 pm 
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SPN-87 wrote:
warp2diesel wrote:
The centrifuge does not even kick on until I reach 35PSI oil pressure and the valve opens up.

I like your idea with a centrifuge.
What do you think about 12v inline oil pump for 60-70 psi constant pressure?
Can we use fuel pump ?


To maintain the oil pressure at lower speeds, engines use an over sized pump and dump the rest. Bypass filter and centrifuges use the excess oil and reduce the quantity of excess oil dumped into the pan. My centrifuge has two 0.045" hlles for the jets that spin the bowl.
Add the extra pump like an electric pump, you would just dump more into the pan and never get the higher oil pressure. To raise the oil pressure, you would need to play around with the oil pump relief valve.
With hydraulic lifters like our CRDs have, if you would jack up the oil pressure super high, the valves would not seat properly and burn up. I have no plan to find out at what oil pressure would prevent the valves from seating, but it could be calculated by an engineer with way way too much time on his hands. Also the oil filter would split open before the lifters hold open the valves. VW had a problem with early Rabbit engines (200PSI cold) and had to use a heavy duty oil filter because the cheapy filters would blow up.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:39 pm 
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I mean separate line with control from driver place. You can start/stop your cenrifuge at any time. It need one additional fitting at the bottom of the oil pan. With the 60-70 psi 12v pump we can have constant pressure with constant RPMs.

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KJ crd Sport 2006, Stanadyne FM100 (2 micron), inline lift pump, turbo-timer, 245/70/16 Dueler 694 A/T Revo.


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:20 am 
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SPN-87 wrote:
I mean separate line with control from driver place. You can start/stop your cenrifuge at any time. It need one additional fitting at the bottom of the oil pan. With the 60-70 psi 12v pump we can have constant pressure with constant RPMs.


The DieselCraft Centrifuge kit uses a scavenger pump to pull the oil out of the centrifuge so it can use a 3/8" drain line, even into a valve cover. Life expectancy of their pump is ~25,000 miles, I found that to be unacceptable and one more maintenance issue. Having an electric pump, even if you could find one with a reasonable life span will draw power from the alternator and put a load on the engine. To run a 1/3 Hp 12 Volt electric pump @ 70 PSI to operate the centrifuge would draw 20 Amps, all the time it is running. Using the excess oil that will be dumped under pressure back into the pan allows the centrifuge to run with out wasting energy. Let the cleaned oil drain back into the oil pan is the simplest way to do it.

Simple is better and gravity is free. With all of the Government Tax scams cooked up over history, even the UN has not yet found a way to Tax Gravity.

Another item to watch out for according to some large engine manufactures is if you rev the centrifuge too high, you will extract the Zinc and Phosphorus additives out of the oil. To avoid extracting the Zinc and Phosphorus, large engine operators avoid running the centrifuge at high speed. For BioDiesel cleaning, jacking the centrifuge up to 85 PSI/ 7500 RPM/2000 Gs will get rid of all the bad stuff in the BioDiesel. For my engine oil, getting rid of the soot and fine abrasive particles that pass through the oil filter, is good enough for me.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 1:16 pm 
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Thank you for reply.

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KJ crd Sport 2006, Stanadyne FM100 (2 micron), inline lift pump, turbo-timer, 245/70/16 Dueler 694 A/T Revo.


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:45 am 
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Photos relinked.
Centrifuge is still going.
I had to replace all the made in China fittings to get rid of any pressure side leaks.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:00 pm
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO 80925
Hey, can you post some photo's of your oil color with the Centrifuge installed. Maybe some dipstick shots and some on a towel to compare the black soot filled oil to how yours is doing?

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:04 am 
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kapalczynski wrote:
Hey, can you post some photo's of your oil color with the Centrifuge installed. Maybe some dipstick shots and some on a towel to compare the black soot filled oil to how yours is doing?


Going by oil color with a diesel engine is deceptive. An oil that does not have the detergents like a CI4+ oil needed to handle the soot will look cleaner, because the soot sludge is stuck in the engine. An oil analysis would be the only good test to get the true evaluation. Add to that there are too many factors related to photography that can produce results that are also a deception. If I get the time and run an oil analysis, I will post the results.

When I ran Rotella T-6 5W-40 and a Wix filter, I had a lot of sludge along with soot in my centrifuge when I cleaned out the bowl. With Amsoil AMO 10W-40 a CI4+ rated oil with high zinc, with the Amsoil EAO-35 20 micron filter; I did not have the sludge, just packed carbon from the soot in the bowl. I ran the Rotella T-6 10K and the Amsoil AMO 15K, both are synthetic, but the Amsoil has the additives needed lacking in the Rotella. The additives lacking in the newer oils are due to the response of the Bean Counters to have a one size fits all oil to comply with the new EPA requirements to reduce additives like zinc. Reducing the zinc is an EPA pretense of extending the life of some catalytic converters. Amsoil is a smaller company that makes blends that fit the older engine requirements. People who own older muscle cars that ran great for decades are now failing camshafts and lifters with the new EPA blessed engine oils. Members of this forum and other Diesel related forums are having rocker and turbo failures due to the new EPA blessed oils that do not have the needed additives. Those who are using oils or using additional additives that have what the engine needs are still going. At 100K my turbo has no detectible slop between the shaft and bearings, my rockers are quiet.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Re: Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm
Posts: 72
warp2diesel wrote:
kapalczynski wrote:
Hey, can you post some photo's of your oil color with the Centrifuge installed. Maybe some dipstick shots and some on a towel to compare the black soot filled oil to how yours is doing?


Going by oil color with a diesel engine is deceptive. An oil that does not have the detergents like a CI4+ oil needed to handle the soot will look cleaner, because the soot sludge is stuck in the engine. An oil analysis would be the only good test to get the true evaluation. Add to that there are too many factors related to photography that can produce results that are also a deception. If I get the time and run an oil analysis, I will post the results.

When I ran Rotella T-6 5W-40 and a Wix filter, I had a lot of sludge along with soot in my centrifuge when I cleaned out the bowl. With Amsoil AMO 10W-40 a CI4+ rated oil with high zinc, with the Amsoil EAO-35 20 micron filter; I did not have the sludge, just packed carbon from the soot in the bowl. I ran the Rotella T-6 10K and the Amsoil AMO 15K, both are synthetic, but the Amsoil has the additives needed lacking in the Rotella. The additives lacking in the newer oils are due to the response of the Bean Counters to have a one size fits all oil to comply with the new EPA requirements to reduce additives like zinc. Reducing the zinc is an EPA pretense of extending the life of some catalytic converters. Amsoil is a smaller company that makes blends that fit the older engine requirements. People who own older muscle cars that ran great for decades are now failing camshafts and lifters with the new EPA blessed engine oils. Members of this forum and other Diesel related forums are having rocker and turbo failures due to the new EPA blessed oils that do not have the needed additives. Those who are using oils or using additional additives that have what the engine needs are still going. At 100K my turbo has no detectible slop between the shaft and bearings, my rockers are quiet.


still running strong with thing or what?

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05 2.8L,rustys 2.5" lift,GDE TCM/ECM


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