Do not do that you can use Royal Purple oil 15w- 40 that is synthetic. You can buy it at Pepboy or on the internet. I use it for my Sprinter van and is the best oil there is.

x2, except I would run the 5w40 or 0w40 that the service manual recommends.... By running a non-synthetic oil that does not meet the specs required by this engine you are risking causing thousands of dollars in damage to your CRD. And for what? You change the oil nearly twice as much, so at $20/change you've spent $200 over the last 30,000 miles. Or you could have spent $270 to run the recommended oil? Is a saving of $70 over two years (based on the 15k/year that the average American drives) really worth the risk? No way!

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

A 15w40 synthetic would probably work. What most fail to understand is that the number in front of the "w" is the winter flow rating. The oil, be it a 0w40, 5w40, or 15w40 is a 40 weight. Now, a conventional oil may use viscosity modifiers to meet the 40 weight classification, but the majority of high end synthetics do not use viscosity modifiers. They are true 40 weights, just that they are separated by molecular structure into different winter flow ratings. I am convinced that, because of the narrow oil porting the VM diesel, that they recommend the lower winter flow rating to make sure that oil flows immediately thru these narrower ports and get to where it is needed on cold startups. Obviously, larger diesels like the one in the other member's Sprinter and the Cummins ISX in my semi have larger porting that is not effected as bad by cold startup flow rate.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

Correct

This needs mentioned again

Check the FSM for the EXPORT oil requirement

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Read an interesting article lately in turbo diesel registry in which an engineer did a blind test for nearly every type of oil. Turned out the because of the detergents the CONVENTIONAL valvoline designed for Cummins is the best. I believe the best synthetic was rotella, with the fancy rip-offs coming much further down the list due to the fact that they contained almost none of the detergents used to actually hold the soot in suspension.

Got a link?

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Just add fuel to the fire grab yourself a copy of the FSM and look up what oil is recommended for the EXPORTED ones

Some of you'll be supprised

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

My dad is a member to turbo diesel registry, and I will get a copy of the link next time that I see him (you have to log in to view articles).

I am not so sure that this is true. The API is very particular on what is in an oil that is supposed to meet a certain classification. For instance, CJ-4. There has to be a certain level of detergents in the add pack to hold oil in suspension to meet the CJ-4 rating. Not so much in the CI-4+ rating that proceeded it. CJ-4 was designed to hold a lot of soot in suspension. Any oil that meets the CJ-4 would have the required level of detergents be it a conventional or synthetic base oil. A particular brand may have more detergents in the add pack than required by CJ-4, but that has to be balanced with the entire add pack to stay in compliance with API standards. You can't just throw in the base oil what you want and still meet specs. While it is true that the TBN rating of a lot of CJ-4 oils is lower than a lot of CI-4+ oils, that is due to the lower sulfur content of ULSD fuel compared to LSD. The acid control requirements are less. But it still has to maintain a high level of soot suspension capability. The Valvoline for Cummins you mentioned is interesting in that Cummins has a share in Ashland Oil which makes Valvoline. Darn good oil though. Shell (Rotella) makes the lion's share of base oil stocks for all the other brands in the country. Motiva (Shell) out of Port Arthur, TX is the largest base oil producer in the world and makes the bulk of base oil for the North American market. Infineum makes the add packs that go into Rotella, and likewise, they are the largest add pack producer in North America. Synthetic Group IV oils are made from Natural Gas by a number of producers.

When it comes down to it, almost all oils that meet the CJ-4 classification are virtually identical. The only difference is the base oil stocks. Mobil, Amsoil, Schaeffer, etc rely heavily on Group IV, while Castrol, Rotella, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc rely on Group III synthetics which are produced by severly hydrocracked petroleum oil. The "conventional" oils rely on Group II and Group II+ base stocks.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.