160k KM on the engine? You are right at the point where the belt should be done. Good luck getting that under warranty / service agreement, but I hope you can. The "proper" procedure for that should include the idler pulleys for the timing belt, a new tensioner (b/c of the bearing in it, just like the idlers) and a water pump b/c it is a monumental pain to dig back in there for the water pump.
I don't know about any "lines" on the belt indicating wear, after 105k miles when I changed my own, the belt looked almost identical to the NEW one. I could still easily read the manufacturer's info on the back of the belt and the teeth were all laser-cut sharp.
I did not do the "suggested" changes on my own, b/c I did it myself and have the tools to do it with. Looking at the pulleys, they were all immaculately clean with no grease ejected, which is the first step in failure. Once the grease is ejected, the bearings start to howl, then fall apart rapidly after that. I just recently had an idler pulley on my Grand Cherokee fail out that exact way... After 250k miles on the engine! That was the first time ever for me, and NONE of my family vehicles has less than 100k on it except for my motorcycle. So I would feel safe with those idler bearings for a good while yet.
_________________ Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you! Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most. Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs. Bad noises = REALLY bad things.
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