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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 11:23 am 
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I think the routing of the intake on the CRD is better then removing the thing and taking the air in under the hood. The stock air intake is not restrictive and is infront of the radiator and intercooler where the air is the coolest. I think if you really want to help the air intake you would need to do a ram air type of scoop on the hood and let it get less restricted air that is cooler then just taking it from under the hood.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:55 am 
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BlackLibertyCRD wrote:
Today I found out that the Green Air Filter that I removed from my Magnum RT that I turned in for the CRD indeed fits. http://www.greenfilterusa.com/ I put it in to be sure of more air flow for when I added a V-Force Muffler http://www.flopro.com/VForce.htm also today. The Green filter is supposed to filter down to 5 microns seems to be good to me. I don't know how much better the paper filter could be if better than 5 microns.


Any update on the Green filter? How's it turning out?

I just got the results of an engine oil sampling at a 10k interval. Silicon (i.e. dirt) levels were up considerably since the last analysis with 5k on the oil. I'll be changing my stock OEM filter every 5-6k from now on.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD Bright Silver Metallic (NOW SOLD)
All Recalls Performed
100k extended warranty
Fumoto Oil Drain Valves (Oil Pan & Transfer Case)
V6 Airbox Mod
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2003 Wrangler Sport 4.0L, Bright Blue
2007 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited 4 Door, Red Rock Crystal Pearl WOW!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 10:23 am 
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KJbob wrote:
BlackLibertyCRD wrote:
Today I found out that the Green Air Filter that I removed from my Magnum RT that I turned in for the CRD indeed fits. http://www.greenfilterusa.com/ I put it in to be sure of more air flow for when I added a V-Force Muffler http://www.flopro.com/VForce.htm also today. The Green filter is supposed to filter down to 5 microns seems to be good to me. I don't know how much better the paper filter could be if better than 5 microns.


Any update on the Green filter? How's it turning out?

I just got the results of an engine oil sampling at a 10k interval. Silicon (i.e. dirt) levels were up considerably since the last analysis with 5k on the oil. I'll be changing my stock OEM filter every 5-6k from now on.
Silicon is normally induced into the engine by the intake, if silicon levels are high then you need to check for leaks past the OEM filter caused by improper install of filter or lid, intake hose to turbo not on proper, cheap aftermarket filter or K&N type being used. It has very little or nothing to do with oil & oil filter other then requiring early change do to excessive dirt entering the intake system.

Edited for comment: If you are using OEM filter from dealer then we all may have problems going more then the 5k or 6k mile between oil changes, that is if you don't have a air leak somewhere in the system. I will be pulling a sample today or tomorrow from the CRD to send in for testing as it has 5k miles on oil change.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 12:51 pm 
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oldnavy wrote:
KJbob wrote:
BlackLibertyCRD wrote:
Today I found out that the Green Air Filter that I removed from my Magnum RT that I turned in for the CRD indeed fits. http://www.greenfilterusa.com/ I put it in to be sure of more air flow for when I added a V-Force Muffler http://www.flopro.com/VForce.htm also today. The Green filter is supposed to filter down to 5 microns seems to be good to me. I don't know how much better the paper filter could be if better than 5 microns.


Any update on the Green filter? How's it turning out?

I just got the results of an engine oil sampling at a 10k interval. Silicon (i.e. dirt) levels were up considerably since the last analysis with 5k on the oil. I'll be changing my stock OEM filter every 5-6k from now on.
Silicon is normally induced into the engine by the intake, if silicon levels are high then you need to check for leaks past the OEM filter caused by improper install of filter or lid, intake hose to turbo not on proper, cheap aftermarket filter or K&N type being used. It has very little or nothing to do with oil & oil filter other then requiring early change do to excessive dirt entering the intake system.

Edited for comment: If you are using OEM filter from dealer then we all may have problems going more then the 5k or 6k mile between oil changes, that is if you don't have a air leak somewhere in the system. I will be pulling a sample today or tomorrow from the CRD to send in for testing as it has 5k miles on oil change.

One thing to watch on the paper filter, the foam seal is easily torn. A few weeks ago, I noticed a few grains of dust while checking for oil in the CAC hose. Sure enough, the filer seal had a small tear. I'm sure mine was torn from the frequent removal of the lid while messing around with the airbox modification.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 4:39 pm 
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I'll check for loose connections on the air intake system. It seems (per oil analysis) that the filtering capability of the OEM filter degrades significantly between 5K and 10K (at least in my case).

One other question (a bit off topic). How are you guys doing your oil sampling? (i.e. drain plug, method, suction pump through the dipstick tube, etc.) I was inconsistent with this; at 5k I did the suction pump method. At 10k (because I was changing the oil anyways) I got my sample when I was draining the oil (drain plug method). I wonder if this can really distort the analysis results.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD Bright Silver Metallic (NOW SOLD)
All Recalls Performed
100k extended warranty
Fumoto Oil Drain Valves (Oil Pan & Transfer Case)
V6 Airbox Mod
New Driveshaft, New EGR
2003 Wrangler Sport 4.0L, Bright Blue
2007 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited 4 Door, Red Rock Crystal Pearl WOW!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:33 pm 
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KJbob wrote:
I'll check for loose connections on the air intake system. It seems (per oil analysis) that the filtering capability of the OEM filter degrades significantly between 5K and 10K (at least in my case).

One other question (a bit off topic). How are you guys doing your oil sampling? (i.e. drain plug, method, suction pump through the dipstick tube, etc.) I was inconsistent with this; at 5k I did the suction pump method. At 10k (because I was changing the oil anyways) I got my sample when I was draining the oil (drain plug method). I wonder if this can really distort the analysis results.


As far as oil sample goes the proper way is to have oil at normal temp and then get sample from about mid drain when getting at the oil pan, when getting it by suction same applies, normal temp and near middle of oil in pan. Don't take a sample from an engine that has sit and cooled down, because you want the oil mixed as it is when engine is running. Actually if you can it is prefered to take the sample from running engine, but that is almost impossible for auto's. However our CRD with Fumoto drain valve and it's ground clearance I guess it would be possible to do. But not me, someone might drop it in gear while I was under the thing. :roll:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:48 am 
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KJbob wrote:
BlackLibertyCRD wrote:
Today I found out that the Green Air Filter that I removed from my Magnum RT that I turned in for the CRD indeed fits. http://www.greenfilterusa.com/ I put it in to be sure of more air flow for when I added a V-Force Muffler http://www.flopro.com/VForce.htm also today. The Green filter is supposed to filter down to 5 microns seems to be good to me. I don't know how much better the paper filter could be if better than 5 microns.


Any update on the Green filter? How's it turning out?

I just got the results of an engine oil sampling at a 10k interval. Silicon (i.e. dirt) levels were up considerably since the last analysis with 5k on the oil. I'll be changing my stock OEM filter every 5-6k from now on.


I don't do oil samples but now have 7,800 miles with no clogging problem. I will be heading back to Delaware end of the week and will have about 11,000 mile then. I will check it then and keep you posted.

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