Life after an oil drain... sigh..crd counseling anyone><?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Aug 18, 2012 9:56 pm

TJ2 wrote:

racertracer wrote:

BTW what is an OIL PIN?

It's right down there next to the drain plug.

Sorry, now I'm confused too - I think the OP was referring to the actual drain plug, as he said he replaced it with an 18mm hole size - that would be accurate for re-drilling the drain plug hole.

Where are you thinking this "pin" is, in relation to the drain plug? I don't think there is anything else down there, and I've been down there a lot.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sat Aug 18, 2012 10:01 pm

The diagnosis may be correct, though it is still possible that the loss of oil affected the turbo only.

I agree with the recommendation to get a qualified mechanic do the diagnostics - the standard dealership will, often as not, replace things all too quickly due to unfamiliarity and lack of training.

If you personally did the oil change, sadly, it sounds like an expensive learning experience. If a business did it, you may be able to get some help with repair costs.

Single highest priority - find a qualified AND experienced mechanic to diagnose and confirm both the turbo and bottom-end (crank bearings). If you fix either one and not the other it will mostly likely result in a repeat and the one which fails will again damage the other. If they're not a diesel guru (at least), and ideally experienced with OUR VM diesel, it's a risky move to let them touch the engine.

Go slowly, take care.

Tough luck, Bro - really sorry!

Good news is, help is to be found here...

Mark

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Aug 18, 2012 10:45 pm

TJ2 wrote:

It's right down there next to the drain plug.

Never seen it.

camo · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2012 12:36 pm

Just buy my turbo, swap it off and be happy with your libby again. The more you go round and round trying to diagnose it the more things you'll think might be wrong. I will let it go for $500 plus the shipping.
Our baby girl needs here room equipped with a cradle and some other few things. :mrgreen:

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2012 12:52 pm

Camo, I do agree that he should buy your turbo - he will need to replace that no matter what. Unfortunately, I have been down the loss-of-oil road before, and any noises he is hearing from the bottom end are NOT to be ignored.

Sadly, my own experience shows that the CRD will be able to idle just fine for 20 minutes (maybe longer) without any indications of problems... But the moment you start applying power is when it starts REALLY doing damage to itself internally.

Buying your turbo will save him between 600 and 900 on that part of the job... But the engine still has to be torn down and the crankshaft inspected. Theoretically, the crankshaft CAN be replaced while the rest of the engine remains in the vehicle, this is a "tunnel block" design... But I don't know how hard it will be for someone to do that. Pianotips: It would mean removal of the oil pan, then the rest should be right in front of your (now oily) face. The balance shaft assembly sits in the bottom of the oil pan, and what you need to inspect are the rod bearings enclosing the crankshaft. These are big flat pieces of copper, and if they aren't flat anymore (or appear to have been "squirting" out to the sides of their spaces... They are gone.

camo · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2012 11:39 pm

Thanks for your patronage :mrgreen:

I did not mean to ignore weird sound, I meant to replace the turbo and try again to see if the noise still there, but is just my opinion anyway. I hope pianotips can get his libby back on the road without making as big of a hole on his bank account.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2012 11:57 pm

The noise will still be there. Unfortunately. The real risk is that even starting it up to check might put it just past the point of severe damage, maybe the rod hasn't completely disintegrated yet or the piston hasn't been damaged yet... Starting it up again might finish that part of the job and cause more havoc, possibly even killing the engine completely.

Not worth the risk at all.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2012 4:03 pm

I wonder if anyone overseas has succeeded in boring and sleaving one of these motors. I know on cummins and power strokes it is common practice instead of new bigger pistons. After a cylinder wall is damaged or if it is even possible.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2012 6:12 pm

We have a "wet sleeve" engine design already, so no boring is needed or possible. The cylinder sleeve can be extracted and replaced, and the same size piston goes right back in the hole.

I wasn't able to find anyone willing to DO that with my engine when the #1 cylinder liner was beaten to a pulp and then the rod punched out the oil pan. No block damage, but nobody wanted to touch it.

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2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2012 6:16 pm

Replace the turbo, see if noise goes away..........my turbo blew back in December and was unable to stop for a couple minutes after the smoke screen started and in an area with no cell service. Took the chance, poured a gallon of oil in and drove it the 15mi. Into town. Oil light came on once about 5mi. from the local dealer there and stopped to pour in another gallon. Drove in to the dealer, oil light came on again while idling in the parking lot. Replaced the turbo, all is fine still with nearly 15k mi. since failure. These engines are not the ticking time bombs some would have you believe.

ibedonc · **Joined:** Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:40 pm **Posts:** 236

geordi wrote:

That will be the crankshaft bearings then. Congratulations, you are the proud owner of the second CRD that I am aware of to completely run itself out of oil and eat itself in less time than it took to read this sentence.

Your engine needs to be pulled. I hope you know a good shop, because unfortunately, the dealers are completely useless on this vehicle. In this instance, they will suggest that the entire engine be replaced, and perhaps your insurance company will agree to pay for it... Because you are looking at the start of a MINIMUM $3500 repair job, closer to $8000 if the entire block is replaced.

As it is still capable of running, the engine does not need to be outright replaced - that is only what the clueless dealer will suggest to pad their own bottom line - but the repair will require someone skilled in deep engine rebuilding. I'm not that person, you truly need a professional now.

this happened to my 05 also , wife was driving , I was not around, cost was $8k to fix , this was before I found this site

Life after an oil drain... sigh..crd counseling anyone><?

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