I wonder if Kieth at GDE has an opinion. He is a wealth of info.

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

Pressure when cold suggests blown head gasket. It is possible to do that without needing a new head, just a gasket, but it appears most folks aren't so lucky. Mine cracked the head, too. Total cost came to $3500 for new head, gaskets, water pump, timing belt, tensioners and idlers and labor. Since it sounds like you were about to do the timing belt and water pump anyway, the extra for the head gasket (and head, if you need it) is not so bad.

But sorry to hear you have the problem. Get the Hayden fan clutch. It is not optional.

Based on what I have heard from others, and the removal torque for existing head bolts, my engineering assessment is that the VM Motori engine exhibits notable variation in head bolt clamping force, and that the so-called TTY bolts do not in fact reach the yield point. Read the ARP stud thread for details and pictures. CRD #1 was starting to lose a little coolant when I replaced the WP with OEM and the head bolts with ARP studs, and it is not now leaking any detectable amount of coolant.

Retorque of the head with the existing bolts will not solve your problem. Those 'tty' bolts deform the top of the head before. Based on my experience, you can in fact deform the head with ARP studs, so it might be possible to clamp the head tightly enough to reseal the HG, but I would not bet on that. If I were in your shoes and wanted the best possible solution, I would install a new head with a new HG and ARP studs.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

So far haven't found any leaks. But they are pressure testing it today. Will keep everyone updated. THanks for the help

Mine was bone dry outside.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Mine is leaking into the skid plate. I have used this shop for years. They have done the timing belt about a year ago. But I'm thinking of trying new shop in the future. He's not listening to me says it's not the head. He has a lot of work and set in his ways. I'm thinking I want the head pulled and a good look at this thing. I planning a long trip in May pulling my travel trailer .

If they do a water pump and timing belt . If i have to do a head later will I have to do the timing belt again? thanks for the help

If it is leaking into the skid, then your mechanic may be right.

Keep searching.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

most likely not the head if it is dripping on skid plate. I would focus on the EGR cooler lines on driver's side of block, could be an easy fix.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Thanks Keith hoping for the best planning for the worst!!

Keith is The Man.

I'll say that about 2 years before I suffered the blown head gasket, I had the leaking hoses at the EGR cooler. They replaced those and stopped the leak for me.

Until, of course, the head gasket went. Which is not to say yours is doomed, just to say that if Keith thinks cooler hoses, I'd go with those. Been there, done that.

Haven't heard anything from my tech yet. I'm thinking it's cheap or he would have called and checked on money. I'm doing Hayden 2905 Thermal Fan Clutch. Planning on a new torque converter if the head is good.

Why.... is the Torque converter giving you trouble?

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Only when I'm pulling my trailer up some good hills at 1800 rpm. I will get a shudder with the full torque tune. I can drive around it the shudder. I would like to get it replaced.