Doesn't really matter, because the pump will push any little bubbles through the filter and they will pass through unnoticed. Having pressure before the filter is what's important. Being able to bypass or replace the lift pump easily is another advantage of being under the hood. If your in-tank pump fails, sounds like you're hosed!

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I do plan to install the in-tank pump soon

_________________
Silver 05 sport crd-Ehm,Orm,wix oversized oilfilter,shell rotell,2nd gen fuelhead,Fumoto oil drain valve,muffler delete,cat removed,V6 airbox swap,evic added,HVAC controls modded, Franken lifted II,hercules Terra Tracs 245/75/16,Full l.e.d. interior swap,hayden fan clutch and nylon fan

Add me to the list of Jeep owners with air issues..... Just got towed 80 miles to get home to my garage so I can start the process of adding a Racor filter, lift pump, and maybe even just replacing some fuel line connections to be on the safe side.

_________________
2006 Green CRD Limited -- 32,000 miles -- Predator Tune -- K&M Air Filter --
(2005 Grey CRD Sport) Sister's
(2006 Gold CRD Limited) Dad's
(1997 GMC 2500 w/ GFS WVO)
(2007 Arctic Cat Diesel ATV)

My KJ was dead in the water a couple days ago with air in the fuel. Crack crank crank crank crank, no start. No codes. Air in fuel. i already have the Gen2 fuel head.

I replaced the entire plastic line coming out of the tank with a piece of 3/8" rubber fuel hose and did away with the factory fittings. No more air in fuel, problem solved.

No one really has an excuse not to do it. I did it in the driveway in 3 hours INCLUDING the solo removal/installation of my RL bumper. You don't need to drop the tank all the way, just undo the 3 little torx bolts inside the fuel door and remove the rear fuel tank strap bolts. Lower the tank with a hydraulic jack until you can see the fittings on top and go to town. Excluding skids, hitch, or aftermarket bumper it shouldn't take more than an hour.

All you need is about 3' of 3/8" good fuel line and 2 good hose clamps.... fixed.

_________________
Former CRD owner... now I just sit around and stare at the wall.