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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:50 pm 
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If IDparts doesn't have any, call up your local Bosch injector shop. They probably are a Garrett dealer, or they know who is. The turbo on the CRD is NOT REBUILDABLE according to Garrett.

Anyone asks you for a core, walk away.
Anyone says they can rebuild yours instead, walk away.

Anyone charging you significantly more or less than $1200 or so... RUN away!
The dealer is ABSOLUTELY THE LAST PLACE TO EVER GO! Those pirates will sell you a $1200 turbo for $2000 and not even blink.
Anyone charging less than Garrett does (through the Bosch dealers) is doing something fishy, like selling you a rebuilt that WILL FAIL.

I did the experiment on my own CRD, Papaindigo was there to assist when I rebuilt a blown center cartridge on my 'bad' turbo. I figured that since I was able to do the R&R in about 2 hours, it would be worth the effort since the 'dealer-new' turbo had a manufacturing defect in it. The vanes would stick, so it needed to come out anyway.

The rebuild seemed straightforward, and both of us believed that the new cartridge would be successful. It wasn't. First time it spun up, it made a metallic 'jingling' type sound, but ONLY on shutdown. I drove it anyway, and within maybe 50 miles, it was starting to make noises while running too. That was it - pulled from service.

The bad vane section and the bad center (from the rebuild) went into a box, and the good center (from the 'new' turbo) installed into the 'rebuild' vane section... All was peaceful and boosted in the world again. I called that one FrankenTurbo, and he powered my CRD until the engine ate itself about 25k miles later.

Moral? Center cartridges are VERY VERY precisely balanced, and opening it up and mucking about changes the balance. Even if you think it is balanced and feels great when stopped... At 20k RPM plus, things can look a lot different, quickly.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:26 pm 
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IDparts is showing to have them for $1120.00 for new oem garrets. So the rebuilt garretts that I've seen online are in fact rebuilt but you are saying they are probably not balanced correctly and won't hold up?


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:29 pm 
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So the ones for sale on ebay in California are not 'new' as claimed in the ads (@ $749)?


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:05 pm 
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Glend wrote:
So the ones for sale on ebay in California are not 'new' as claimed in the ads (@ $749)?

I saw those. I'd say yes they are new but they are listed as "aftermarket" which usually means cheap made chinese aluminum. I bought one of those for another car I had a few years ago and it worked fine but soon blew a seal and bolt holes were easy to strip. I'd put one on a car I was selling to someone I didn't like lol. I've got too much invested in this thing now to go the cheap route.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:05 pm 
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TennesseeCRD wrote:
IDparts is showing to have them for $1120.00 for new oem garrets. So the rebuilt garretts that I've seen online are in fact rebuilt but you are saying they are probably not balanced correctly and won't hold up?


That is exactly what I am saying. The problem is that the balancing is done by milling on the compressor wheel (the one that will unscrew from the center shaft) after it is installed and built. Since the exhaust side is friction-welded into place on the shaft, once the compressor wheel is tightened into place, the whole center is treated as one piece. They oil it and spin it up to some RPM, and a computer measures the wobbles and then marks / mills away metal from the compressor until the shaft and wheel are completely balanced.

Obviously the tolerances are minutely tiny. Papaindigo and I thought that by just tightening the wheel back to snug, we would be close enough to the point the wheel started from, that it would still be balanced. Since that wheel was back with the shaft it was always with... It sounded like a good plan at the time.

In practice, not so much. It felt solid and without any excess shaft movement after we built it... But quickly it must have worn open the brass main bearing from the imbalance. Don't forget, at full boost, the turbo center is spinning at somewhere north of 120,000 RPM. These turbos are ALREADY programmed by Mopar to operate too close to their factory safety limits. Overspeeding is a real problem, and adding a marginally-successful rebuild into the mix is just asking for problems.

I would have been the happiest person on the planet to tell everyone that rebuilding these was a possibility, that we had done it safely and successfully. Unfortunately, the reality is a lot different. Maybe a rebuilt wouldn't be a risk if Chrysler had selected a turbo with a bit more safety factor before the overspeed threshold was crossed... But they didn't.

Meanwhile... The Chinese are great at knocking off ANYTHING. Cheaping out by reducing metal alloy strength, thickness... Who knows what else. I bought a dishwasher that had an asphalt BRICK zip-tied into the bottom of it. Obviously the specification from the buyer had a weight requirement... They chose to meet that by using a BRICK. The port of Savannah bought 4 giant ship cranes from China... Shortly after a building-climbing-crane COLLAPSED while unloaded, because of the weak and substandard Chinese steel they had used.
A fabricator I know told me that he heard an interesting tale from the scrap dealers he sells his waste to: If X number of tons of scrap are being sent to China, 1/2 X are coming back (by weight) as finished products. I don't remember the exact numbers he gave me, but it wasn't a small amount. We are sending many SHIPS full of scrap over there, and getting back air-filled and weak cast metal products in return.

Think about that before you buy a $700 "new" turbo, instead of a MADE IN THE USA Genuine Garrett turbo. Idpart's price of $1120 is a fantastic price, and well within the safe range. I had been quoted (several years ago now) $1150 to buy from a Bosch shop, and they would have been bringing it in from a shop in Brazil. Nobody closer had it at the time. The only reason I bought it from the dealer, was an employee discount card from a friend - I got the dealer one for $800. With the engine blowing 10 miles later, I didn't discover the defect until 4 months later, too late to do anything about it with the dealer.

Buy from IDparts with confidence. I would, in a heartbeat.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 9:51 pm 
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Exactly how much oil seepage and shaft play is acceptable on this turbo?


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 2:03 am 
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Oil seepage... To be honest, NONE.

I've seen your videos (thank you!) and my first thought with the second video was that some SERIOUS amount of oil had been inhaled through the CCV connection. If I am mistaken and the CCV is actually corked off (hard to tell in the video) or routed to an EHM somewhere... WOWZERS you have a lot of loose oil in that turbo.

A lot of people will make noises that the turbo "needs to have boost to keep the seals" or that "some seepage past the seals is normal" but both of those statements are false.

First thing about these (and I suspect most if not all) turbos: They do not have "seals" as we might typically understand them. No o-rings, no copper crush seals on the inside of the cartridge, not even a moving bearing surface. The turbine side (exhaust) has a large flat washer that presses against the center of the rear housing - this is the outer 'seal' and is wide around the center shaft. I suspect this is only a heat seal. Behind that, is a much more precisely milled steel washer, then the central bearing is brass. This central bearing is a solid tube of brass that is EXTREMELY TIGHTLY milled to fit the steel central shaft. There are several small detail grooves cut in the outside of it, and there may have been one or more cut on the inside. There is a hole drilled across the center of the tube, which the central shaft completely closes when in place. A notch at the compressor end matches a small locating pin that locks the tube from rotating. Again there is a very finely machined steel washer, and finally one last large steel washer behind the compressor wheel.

The ONLY things keeping the oil in are the rotational forces, the tight tolerances (and path of least resistance) around the central bearing, and these steel outer bearings.

With an EHM on my CRD and a spotlessly clean turbo compressor after I worked on it (FrankenTurbo) - I would state confidently that the inside of that turbo even now is still clean and pretty.

From the second video... Yours looked somewhat reminiscent of the videos of Iraqi oil wells after the gulf war ended. :shock: That was a TON of oil coming out there! It shouldn't EVER be like that.

Papaindigo has some writeups about the acceptable amount of shaft movement in either direction, but I would venture a guess that both of yours are WAY out from where they should be. 1/4" end-to-end is a LOT more than I would agree with, the rebuild had maybe 1/64" or 1/32", and side-to-side was half a sheet of paper. Side play kills the turbos QUICK because that is wobble. I'm not sure what happened to yours, but it is most certainly cooked if it is spraying like a firehose like that.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 1:17 pm 
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geordi wrote:
The bad vane section and the bad center (from the rebuild) went into a box, and the good center (from the 'new' turbo) installed into the 'rebuild' vane section... All was peaceful and boosted in the world again. I called that one FrankenTurbo, and he powered my CRD until the engine ate itself about 25k miles later.

Moral? Center cartridges are VERY VERY precisely balanced, and opening it up and mucking about changes the balance. Even if you think it is balanced and feels great when stopped... At 20k RPM plus, things can look a lot different, quickly.

An article by Trevor Cass, an engineer for Garrett, says that the critical first stage of rebuilding a VNT turbo is setting the minimum vane open position, which requires a turbine flow bench test. The consequences of not getting this right may be an over-rich mix causing excessive temperature and engine failure or over pressure causing over-speeding and engine damage.

Anyone interested, google: "Garrett VNT Turbochargers To repair or not to repair ~ is it worth the risk? By Trevor Cass"


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 2:01 pm 
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I agree - However, the vanes are controlled by the vacuum motor. There are two end points for vane travel. For the purposes of this explanation, let us assume that the vacuum motor has more travel distance than the vanes do, in both directions. (I believe this is correct, anyway - the vanes don't need to move much)

One end of the travel path of the vane arm is permanently locked - there is a drilled-in locating pin that the arm hits. The other end of the travel is adjustable, by changing the length of a stopper bolt and nut.

The stopper bolt and the exterior portion of the arm are mounted as part of the center cartridge. The mobile vanes stay with the rear housing. When I rebuilt the center section, I did NOT adjust the movable stopper bolt, believing as Trevor Cass states - the adjustment is critical.

It is entirely possible that I got extremely lucky when swapping the center cartridges, that they would have had complimentary 'minimum opening' settings, but I think the variations would be similar for the same application. I didn't mess with either adjustable bolt, and the end result was the turbo DID NOT overboost after replacing the faulty vane section. Frankenturbo was the front housing and center cartridge from the dealer-new turbo (with the dealer-new stopper bolt setting) and the used-with-60k-miles-plus rear housing and vane assembly.

When the dealer-new turbo was installed (after the engine replacement at 60k vehicle miles), getting an overboost code was very easy - the turbo would stick in the open position during deceleration, so it never spooled properly from idle. At some point it would "snap closed" and rapidly spike the boost pressure, often overshooting into 27 or 28 psi, and an instant limp mode. This is VERY BAD for this turbo, way overspeeding.

After effectively swapping ONLY the rear housing and vanes from another unit, this behavior vanished and the boost was within the proper range. I would have been happy to drive on FrankenTurbo forever... Unfortunately the bottom end of the engine had other ideas.

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Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 2:17 pm 
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Of the several known good, at least they were running fine with no oil leaks, turbos that I've looked at the fore/aft play of the fan at the point where the airbox hose connects was very slight (not sure I can express the amount as a measurement but certainly only a fraction of a mm or maybe say 1/64-1/128") but could relatively easily be felt while side to side play was what I would describe as a bare hint (something you could feel but not see). Needless to say the described 1/4" in/out, presumably fore/aft, is orders of magnitude past what I've seen.

I'd second geordi's comments on the rebuild attempt. Parts looked right seemed to fit right and turbo felt right when it went back together but in operation is was definitely not right. I can be a cheap or cheaper than most but I would not skimp on a replacement turbo no more than I would buy a cheap no name timing belt. The expense of an almost certain failure is simply not worth the risk.

FYI swapping an OEM turbo is an easy job. You can reuse the oil supply and oil return lines although I'd take care to clean them out; probably best to get a new turbo to manifold gasket although my old one came off clean enough to consider reuse; probably good to get 2 new copper crush washers for supply line for all of a couple of bucks; IIRC there is a gasket on the turbo end of the oil return line but you can fab that from oil impervious gasket material; and there is a rubber push in bushing sort of thing where the oil return line goes into the block that probably can be reused (I got a new one for like $5 when I got my Stage II turbo but the original was in fine shape). That said I cannot stress STRONGLY enough that the 4 studs that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold are cr@p especially with the "jam" nuts that are used in the OEM install. I would consider at least 24hrs of soaking in good penetrating lube absolutely essential for removal of those nuts. I speak from the experience of breaking 2 studs undoing the nuts to remove my OEM turbo and the broken studs were a cast iron you know what to remove. Personally I would recommend the use of regular thread nuts and lock washers, not jam nuts, on an turbo install.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 2:53 pm 
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Just a thought, these guys rebuild our turbos and do dynamic balancing and VSR cartridge balancing.
Cost is $629 and I believe they will give you back $100 on your core.

http://www.pureturbos.com/store/oem-fac ... /jeep.html


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 3:07 am 
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Squeeto wrote:
Just a thought, these guys rebuild our turbos and do dynamic balancing and VSR cartridge balancing.
Cost is $629 and I believe they will give you back $100 on your core.

http://www.pureturbos.com/store/oem-fac ... /jeep.html



Listen to the manufacturer, they aren't saying this to make more money, or they would be offering rebuilds themselves. The turbo on the CRD is NOT REBUILDABLE according to Garrett.

Anyone asks you for a core, walk away.
Anyone says they can rebuild yours instead, walk away.

Anyone charging you significantly more or less than $1200 or so... RUN away!

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Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
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Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 10:39 am 
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How much damage is done to the aluminum shell (core) when the turbo goes bad?
If none, then I would say that it could be rebuilt.
Maybe there is more money to be made on turbos than rebuild kits. I am sure that Garrett knows that they wouldn't be the rebuilder; that money would go elsewhere.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 12:18 pm 
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The amount of damage depends - and only the front half of the unit is aluminum. When my first turbo failed, the central shaft seized while at high RPM and the exhaust wheel snapped off. There wasn't any damage to the compressor housing, but the center cartridge was welded into junk and I would assume the steel rear housing was also trashed.

The turbo that came with the replacement engine failed around 110k miles or so (both it and the replacement engine started with about 60k miles when they were installed) and that one failed by the brass wearing out until the compressor wheel started contacting the aluminum housing. The amount of damage was VERY slight - owing to my discovery of the noise probably the first time it happened, and the ability to immediately drive the CRD home after checking (and topping off) the oil which had gone low again from the failure.

This second failure was in the process of blowing all the oil out, HOWEVER, I was in city traffic and slow speeds, so I do not remember seeing any smoke of any kind from the leak - It was just consuming the oil. I suspect the oil was being inhaled into the intake instead of the exhaust on this failure. Could this front housing be reused? Sure. This was also the center cartridge that Papaindigo and I attempted the rebuild on, since it had not seized. (I put the dealer-new turbo into the CRD after the failure, knowing it had the defect and attempting to 'drive around' the problem to avoid overboost codes)

In all cases, the ability to rebuild would depend greatly on the conditions of the failure and what damage was done. The ONLY moving parts are the vanes themselves, or the entire center cartridge. Considering that... Why waste the energy and risk re-using out-of-spec rotating parts, when the only other parts are non-moving metal housings?

Sure, the turbo CAN be attempted to be rebuilt, but perhaps Garrett says they cannot for a simple reason - they don't want their name molded into a product that no longer matches their quality standards. To me, this makes perfect sense, and I am a cheap bugger - I wanted that rebuild to work very much.

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Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 1:08 pm 
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Okay, then next attempt to save some money for us.

If we are diligent and catch the turbo going bad before catastrophic failure, replacing just the CHRA cartridge would save a lot of money. Garrett has part numbers for some of their CHRA's; anyone know if they provide one for our vehicle?

If there is a part number, I can assume Garrett would deem this to be a safe part to replace. And no balancing required.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 1:52 pm 
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A ray of hope:

Garrett IS rebuilding some of their turbos
http://garrettbyhoneywell.com/products/ ... nal-reman/

One of the included models is from the Volkswagen Golf TDI (768329-5001S) which is also a VNT type.

And they say to "Check back for new Reman releases throughout the year".

So look for part number 763360-9001S.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 2:40 pm 
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Squeeto wrote:
A ray of hope:

Garrett IS rebuilding some of their turbos
http://garrettbyhoneywell.com/products/ ... nal-reman/
One of the included models is from the Volkswagen Golf TDI (768329-5001S) which is also a VNT type.
And they say to "Check back for new Reman releases throughout the year".
So look for part number 763360-9001S.


Very interesting and very hopeful!

The article talking about this also says something that caught my eye: Every Garrett Reman Turbo is...
**Always fitted with some new original components, such as actuators, compressor wheels, bearing systems, seals, O-rings, piston ring seals, bolts and clamps
**Updated with any components superseded since original design

To me, this suggests that possibly (like you said above) that the CHRA (Center Housing Rotating Assembly?) is replaceable as a unit, and they are then checking / reusing the outer snails and sending the thing back out with the proper calibrations and balances.

I would be COMPLETELY fine with using one of these, if they are actually the ones doing it! Like the article says, the tolerances are just minuscule, and I have a hard time believing that anyone other than Garrett truly gives enough of a crap to make it safe at 120k+ RPM

Exciting.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 9:48 pm 
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Too bad the R&D isn't complete and the rebuilds on the shelf by now. I just ordered my new turbo from IDParts. Should be here Tuesday. Anybody have anything special I should know about swapping out the turbo?


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 Post subject: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 11:19 pm 
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Make sure to install it right-side-up... It will be a bugger to connect otherwise. :P


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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 Post subject: Re: CRD experts please step inside. (Video)
PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:54 am 
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TennesseeCRD wrote:
Too bad the R&D isn't complete and the rebuilds on the shelf by now. I just ordered my new turbo from IDParts. Should be here Tuesday. Anybody have anything special I should know about swapping out the turbo?


Use a ton of PB Blaster on the bolts, they're going to need it.

Hell, start soaking them now.

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