motor swapped wont start P0073 p0093

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

atsiauto wrote:

I have noticed when I prime then crank the primer loses the hard pumped up feel immediately. My theory was the pump consumes the lightly pressurized fuel leaving me to be able to pump away again . Or is the primer only used for bleeding? I can't get any air from the bleed now so im assuming that up to the fuel head at least am not gathering air .

Yes it will lose the hard feel after the hipress pump tries to get fuel from the line. And yes, if you are not getting any air bubbles out of the bleeder when you pump the primer, then you have all the air out of the line between the filter head and the fuel tank. The hipress pump should be able to remove residual air from the pump to the filter head UNLESS there is a leak between the two, which would allow it to suck air from this leak instead of fuel from the filter head. The leak could also be in the filter head.

If there is no leak, then the rail should pressurize and the injectors will open IF the computer is getting proper signals from the crank sensor.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:23 am

Couple of thoughts:
1. for what it's worth geordi has indicated the injector # and order and posted on a sticker, I have not looked, on the timing cover. However, IIRC Keith at GDE is on record as saying that injector programming in the ECU is beneficial for mpg (I seem to remember 3%) but that it's not critical to running.
2. atsiauto don't take this wrong but are you bleeding the fuel head correctly? I ask because some have thought just pumping the primer is enough and others think you leave the bleeder screw open while pumping the primer. The former does nothing to remove air and the latter just sucks air in and out of the head. There is a bleeding video on Sam's NOOB guide but the short version is to do it like you are bleeding brakes - pump primer; crack bleeder and let air/fuel escape; close bleeder; repeat until all air is gone. Helps to stick a piece of clear vinyl hose on bleed and run it to a catch bottle so you can see what's coming out and not drip diesel on everything.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:47 am

No problem... keep us posted on what you find out.

atsiauto · **Joined:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:55 pm **Posts:** 30

I have bled the system by pumping the primer button then using a clear jar and hose visually inspected for air til the point of straight fuel long ago , I have tried to start immediately following a lengthy drain off the bleeder, then with priming till button hard then cranking .

I have also cracked #4 at the rail and cranked for 15 seconds with a paper towel under and got fuel soaked paper towel in return then tightened fitting cranked again with no result other than it took 3 different tries to post a code again with some time out in between to let the poor starter cool down and optima 2A trickle charge .

would the crank sensor code if it was not reading ? I have a spare, and keep in mind this engine was hit hard in the front to the turbo side mostly but the heat shield covering the crank sensor was waffled, just would like to rule out any other iffy components as I have spares for everything except the PCV sensor at the most rearward point of the fuel rail I believe its called as I did not use the rail from the wrecked jeep because of it being so shalaylee'd

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 2:11 pm

I am unsure if it will throw a code or not, but I recall seeing a post on how to test the crank sensor. That said, did you check the injector numbers yet? That may be the issue there. Even one wrong one will cause a no start/no run situation IIRC. Call GDE for his take on this. I may be mistaken, but it is certainly worth investigating before digging too far into other things. If you have fuel at the rail, then it is pumping. Unless the engine is out of time, it should run, that is, unless there is an electrical issue and that seems to be the case at this point.

atsiauto · **Joined:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:55 pm **Posts:** 30

When I talked to keith at gde last week he said one injector should not cause a no start situation it is optimal to reflash for fuel economy but he said its not critical from what I could discern though what reminded me of charlie brown sounding speaker phone lol @ my luck.

Just swapped out my crank sensor no change ...

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 3:00 pm

Air in the fuel line most likely.

It is difficult to get out, there is a post / procedure of how to remove air in the lines.

atsiauto · **Joined:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:55 pm **Posts:** 30

Pulled fuel return line off rail then used clear tubing to gauge how much fuel returned .
I can get like 6 inches of diesel in a 3/8 inch clear tube in 5 seconds of cranking . Not sure what would appear normal.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:42 pm

atsiauto wrote:

When I talked to keith at gde last week he said one injector should not cause a no start situation it is optimal to reflash for fuel economy but he said its not critical from what I could discern though what reminded me of charlie brown sounding speaker phone lol @ my luck.

Just swapped out my crank sensor no change ...

Ok, so scratch that as a possibility. Does not sound like you have an air issue at this point either from your latest post... so that must mean something electronic. Try this: disconnect the main ECM. Wait about a minute and reconnect. See if that helps anything. It's a long shot... but I had some goofiness with them in the past, and this helped once. Triple check ALL of your connections. Try swapping out the MAP sensor from the old motor if you can as well. Lastly, there is some connector on the fuel rail or somewhere nearby in which the connectors can be interchanged, that is, they are the same. If you mix them up, it will not start. Make sure everything is plugged into the same place. I'm sorry that I don't know the exact connector. Someone on here had that issue last year sometime...

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 5:01 pm

[quote="MRausch82"] Lastly, there is some connector on the fuel rail or somewhere nearby in which the connectors can be interchanged, that is, they are the same. If you mix them up, it will not start. quote]

2nd That.

This has been found to be the issue on more than one non starting CRD.

atsiauto · **Joined:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:55 pm **Posts:** 30

We have a winner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VSEUR4 ... ata_player
Had the #4 injector connection to the PCV at the back of rail :-)

It runs like a champ ! Sweet jesus.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 5:45 pm

atsiauto wrote:

We have a winner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VSEUR4 ... ata_player
Had the #4 injector connection to the PCV at the back of rail :-)

It runs like a champ ! Sweet jesus.

And don't forget to say a hail Mary too.

atsiauto · **Joined:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:55 pm **Posts:** 30

Seriously! Thanks everyone for all the great ideas and ultimately the solution.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:16 pm

Glad I could help. I wish I had thought of that sooner before you went chasing your tail. Anyhow... Fantastic! Glad it is running! Happy motoring!

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:40 pm

Lol. That almost happened to me, when I double-checked the connections, I saw my #4 injector (lucky I marked a 4 with a paint marker) connected at the back of the rail. Kind of silly to use same connector for 2 different things...

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Sep 03, 2013 7:23 pm

atsiauto wrote:

We have a winner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VSEUR4 ... ata_player
Had the #4 injector connection to the PCV at the back of rail :-)

It runs like a champ ! Sweet jesus.

I scrolled all the way through this thread before replying, and you beat me to the response. This is a pretty common thing to mistake and I myself have been guilty of it a couple of times.

atsiauto · **Joined:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:55 pm **Posts:** 30

I was stressed , I tend to think the worst after so much racking my brain I have forced myself to learn as much as possible while wearing you all out at the same time. Also had a scare w the oil light but swapped pressure sensor and unscrewed the oil filter which proved all is well.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Sep 04, 2013 4:49 pm

gosh darn and futz I knew that but it slipped my failing mind. Have now memorialized this in my CRD "fix" library so I can find it in the future under the "no start" search.

Well at least we were not totally off the mark it was a fuel delivery problem at the injectors not the CP3.

Glad all is well and cheap.

pjigar · **Posted:** Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:13 am

P0073 for me was because I forgot to connect the headlight connector when putting together the headlight header back on.

motor swapped wont start P0073 p0093

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