Getting back in a CRD a bad idea?

buddy357 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 5:05 am

I am on the road to nc to look at the red one with 20k.

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

CRD05il wrote:

OneCheekRider wrote:

CRD05il wrote:

There one in Chicago for 7200 with the belt change last year
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/cto/4182553225.html

I wonder how he got a Mercedes diesel in there :ROTFL:

I think only a few people in Chicago know it's not because there's one more ad that says the same thing. There's one that wants $17,000 for his because it only 66,000 miles on it.

These two in Chicago area have been for sale for over 2 years. The one for $17000 was $18500 2 years ago. His mileage was around 50K at that time. City vehicle parked on the streets of Chicago. This guy is a joke.

buddy357 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 2:54 pm

I am almost the owner of an 06 sport CRD with 20k miles. The dealer seems unsure if they can sell to me because my dl is from va because that's where I'm stationed and they are in nc. I bought my excursion in nc and registered it in va no problem.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:14 pm

The dealer is an idiot. Of course you can buy it from out of state. Ask for someone smarter at the dealer - you will not be paying the tax to them in NC, you will pay it to Virginia when you register it. All they need to do is provide you with the temp plate

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:36 pm

To build on what others here have shared;
As a recent purchaser of a used CRD back in July with 139k on it I thought I was getting a good deal since the price was below 7k. I sure wish I had discovered this list and read about all the problems before I made the deal. :cry:

After buying this Jeep and learning about all the things that it needs it became a big investment. I could not find out for sure either from the dealer or previous owner if anyone had ever put a timing belt and water pump on it. I could not sleep well at night for worrying about the belt breaking. :banghead:

So, I started pouring money into it! :cry:

Blocked off the EGR, removed the CCV hose from out of the intake boot, removed the CAT and replaced the muffler with a Flowmaster, installed a Diablo Power Puck, replaced the timing belt, idler & tension pulleys, and water pump ($600 in parts Ouch!). Pulled and cleaned both the intercooler and radiator, replaced both boost hoses and clamps with Samco’s (another $300) Ordered all new Bilstein shocks this week, getting ready to order new springs front and rear to go with the shocks. Have not even gotten to the torque converter, rockers, glow plugs, and / or head studs yet. Will have sunk well over 4k in this thing before it is all over in just parts alone! :roll:

Moral of this story, be very prepared to spend a lot of $ on one of these used vehicles. And if you cannot do your own mechanic work, FORGET IT, unless you have lots and lots of $ to spend. As others stated, very few mechanics out there that really know how to make these things tick.

I keep asking myself, what the heck have I gotten myself into!!! I should have just bought a newer Jeep Wrangler. :shock:

Sure love this little Jeep and torque though! Would buy a new one tomorrow if it were available.
:wink:

buddy357 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:42 pm

On the way to va beach, towing a 20k mile CRD

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:49 pm

Did they let you register this barn-find, or you were always going to tow it back? 20k miles is NICE, that thing never was used!

You should consider dropping that belt PRONTO because of the age, but you only need to change the belt itself. If you want me to do it again, I will most likely be driving through NoVa again in about 3 weeks or so.

Congrats and good luck with it. At least you already know what it needs, from having one before. GDE, I'm sure, right?

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 5:20 pm

Wow, 20k only, how did you find it? Internet?

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 5:25 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

To build on what others here have shared;
As a recent purchaser of a used CRD back in July with 139k on it I thought I was getting a good deal since the price was below 7k. I sure wish I had discovered this list and read about all the problems before I made the deal. :cry:

After buying this Jeep and learning about all the things that it needs it became a big investment. I could not find out for sure either from the dealer or previous owner if anyone had ever put a timing belt and water pump on it. I could not sleep well at night for worrying about the belt breaking. :banghead:

So, I started pouring money into it! :cry:

Blocked off the EGR, removed the CCV hose from out of the intake boot, removed the CAT and replaced the muffler with a Flowmaster, installed a Diablo Power Puck, replaced the timing belt, idler & tension pulleys, and water pump ($600 in parts Ouch!). Pulled and cleaned both the intercooler and radiator, replaced both boost hoses and clamps with Samco’s (another $300) Ordered all new Bilstein shocks this week, getting ready to order new springs front and rear to go with the shocks. Have not even gotten to the torque converter, rockers, glow plugs, and / or head studs yet. Will have sunk well over 4k in this thing before it is all over in just parts alone! :roll:

Moral of this story, be very prepared to spend a lot of $ on one of these used vehicles. And if you cannot do your own mechanic work, FORGET IT, unless you have lots and lots of $ to spend. As others stated, very few mechanics out there that really know how to make these things tick.

I keep asking myself, what the heck have I gotten myself into!!! I should have just bought a newer Jeep Wrangler. :shock:

Sure love this little Jeep and torque though! Would buy a new one tomorrow if it were available.
:wink:

If you're planning to get stock front coils, I have the correct part number for them, let me know and I'll look it up, fsm gives you 5 or 6 options, I got the correct one (based on what dealer told me) and I can confirm it is the correct one since it's already on the jeep. After few miles of driving to let the suspension seat properly, I got about 1/2 inch more in height with the new coils.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 6:11 pm

Yes thermorex, Let loose with those part numbers for the springs.
I would like to change out mine this spring during shock / strut replacement.
Mine is getting saggy in the front.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 11:20 pm

Sure thing, this is what the dealer gave me: 52128880AA [ZCK,ZRK]-and I can confirm its good. I got them from parts.com for 57.56 each for a total of 134.39 delivered. I'd also recommend getting the clevis (plenty on eBay used, many Jeeps are parted out, just make sure the part you get is not from the crashed side), would be easier to just assemble everything for an easy swap, especially if the jeep had been driven in salty winters, the bolts from both upper and lower clevis can be a bit rusty. Parts.com/dealer sells the bolts also (get the part # from fsm). If you do get a clevis, I'd also recommend taking out the strut assembly with clevis from the jeep, look at the shock markings (shock has a guide the clevis goes through, you need to assemble the shock, spring and top Bushing in a specific position. I can attach a pic if you need more details. I had to re-press the spring and rotate the top Bushing since I didn't do it right first time. It may also be a good idea to change the upper arms, since you need to take out a bunch of stuff from under the hood anyways (for driver remove battery, battery tray, battery temp sensor, front Diff breather, loosen up the fuse box and for passenger, remove airbox completely, remove the bracket the steering pump reservoir is secured on-3 little bolts, remove the vacuum reservoir with accessories - 2 screws), removing upper arms can be a pain bc fsm it's referring to gasser procedure (more space there), I had to use a long metric 18 to unstuck it (I can provide more details if you guys need), then ratchet flat 18 metric and I was cursing every minute... It is a bad design.

buddy357 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 11:34 pm

I found it in USAA's car buying service. And Geordi, I plan to GDE this one as well. It is a little disconcerting to look under the jeep and see components that look new all over

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 10:19 am

buddy357 wrote:

I found it in USAA's car buying service. And Geordi, I plan to GDE this one as well. It is a little disconcerting to look under the jeep and see components that look new all over

Cool, need to get my hands on that, both wife and I have prior service. Thanks for the info!

Good luck with your new jeep!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 11:26 am

thermorex wrote:

Sure thing, this is what the dealer gave me: 52128880AA [ZCK,ZRK]

Thanks for the part no. What does all the code numbers mean and how do you find the proper code for your vechicle?

These are the numbers I came up with:
Front Coil Spring - 52128878AB ; 52128878AA
• SPRING. Front Coil. [ZCH,ZRH]. . "Suspension - Normal Duty"+"Spring - Left Front". Required: 001
• SPRING. Front Coil. [ZCH,ZRH]. . "Suspension - Normal Duty"+"Spring - Right Front". Required: 001

There are many OEM numbers listed for: JEEP LIBERTY 4x4, 2.8L 4 Cyl Turbo Diesel, 5-Spd Automatic 5-45RFE EDITION Limited.
Do any of the codes stand for heavy duty over stock or weight/load capacity?
Finding the best one has been a challenge... :juggle:

Are there any web sites where you find the codes by VIN number?

thanks for any help on understanding all of this!

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:19 pm

WWDiesel, I honestly have no idea what all those part #s stand for... I am thinking it must be at least one for each of 4 cyl gas, 6 Cyl gas and 4 cyl dsl, but there are more, so either you're correct and the rest are heavy duty coils, either they come as a strut assembly (which I would guess fsm would mention...).Best thing is to contact a dealer/parts.com (I recommend last, I always get great answers from them, may take 1-2 days though since I believe they direct all question to a dealer) and tell them your vin number and ask if they do have heavy duty coils. In my case, I just wanted the same thing the Jeep originally had, which is what I got.

There is another thread I created, asking for the right part # for front coils, and papaindigo I believe answered with an aftermarket manufacturer. Let me look that up and I will update this post. Maybe we should make another thread since we totally jacked this one up with the coils conversation, lol.

UPDATE: this is the thread started about front coils: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76708

There is some more info from Sonorous about some Amazon parts.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 3:29 pm

thermorex wrote:

There is another thread I created, asking for the right part # for front coils, and papaindigo I believe answered with an aftermarket manufacturer. Let me look that up and I will update this post. Maybe we should make another thread since we totally jacked this one up with the coils conversation, lol.

Great idea, how do you move this thread?

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 11:36 pm

Only a moderator can do the move of the posts, but I'll just make a post in that thread to bring it to date since I have a question for Sonorous anyways...

arengant · **Posted:** Sun Nov 17, 2013 2:38 am

buddy357 wrote:

I found a White Limited CRD in GA for 10K with 87K miles, but don't want to drive down there for a wasted trip if it's not in decent shape. It has a snorkel which makes me wonder if it was a member. It is very tempting.

What say you guys?

That was shaggy's right?

buddy357 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 06, 2013 5:59 am

Thought I'd give an update on the Liberty I bought.

I don't know what the difference is between this and the last CRD but I have averaged over 25 mpg so far til this week. The blue one averaged 21.4 over 15K miles. I changed the oil for Mobil 1 TDT 5W-40 this week because I had no idea how old the oil in there was. This tank (about 75% hwy with some over 80mph) the lie-I-meter says 29mpg., it so far has been about 3 mpg high. I started worrying about the fuel gauge on the way to work today. I am at 364 miles and have over 3/8's of a tank. The old jeep would have been on e with the low fuel light. I am really digging the little jeep, except for power compared to my excursion. The mpg I am getting makes me wonder if getting a Gde tune is a bad idea, since the old CRD didn't do that well with the Gde tune
The reason I wondered before if I should get this jeep is I have an 03 Excursion (paid for) in very good shape. It has a 6.0, but I have fixed all the engine issues( new oil cooler, egr delete, head gaskets, arp studs, and a looney wild tune) and it has a ridiculous amount of power. I have never not had more power available on demand. But even though it's something I like a lot and I have repainted it, it has 174k miles and I worry about it maybe starting to have issues due to wear. I am hoping the jeep with 22k will last a long time. The main draws to the jeep were parking, Mpg, and full time 4x4. Otherwise, I personally prefer the excursion for everything. And I think due to mods and power I can sell my excursion for enough to nearly pay off the jeep.

Good mpg will be important soon as I am going to have to retire from the Navy because I told them I would not re-enlist to go to Spain when I don't want to go. I am overdue to transfer and my enlistment is up in march. I put in reenlistment papers last week and was told if I re-enlist I will be forced to stay onboard and got to Spain for 2 yrs. I have hit a point this isn't fun any more, so I am going to retire in march instead.

I got offered what I paid for the jeep by one of the guys on my ship since he is getting transferred to Spain in January with the ship. I was tempted because of the excursions power and comfort. And it's already had all the 6.0 issues fixed. But the low miles and mpg on the jeep so far have kept me from saying yes, along with the fact I don't need a big truck for just me and a 6 yr old.

Overall this little liberty is a huge improvement over the last one and the last is what convinced me To buy this one. I think it will be a good vehicle for me.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Dec 06, 2013 9:40 am

The best thing you can do for your CRD is stop the EGR. GDE or SERG mod. You will get better MPG without the EGR & prevent down the road engine rocker issues. I prefer complete removal of EGR. The mods stop the CEL light, so if the EGR leaks or sticks open you wont know other than loss of performance.

Its your choice, do what's best for you. My choice's? SERG or GDE ECO tune.

FYI...even with your low MILES you still need to get the Timing Belt changed. Lots of years!

Good luck! and welcome back.
KJJET

Getting back in a CRD a bad idea?

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