65Corvair's Head Gasket Replacement

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 10:16 pm

flman wrote:

Here is the procedure I follow for timing belt, work smarter not harder and KISS. It should have all the pics you need as well.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/19672761/timing-belt-installation-rev3-pdf-716k.pdf

I used these pics to help me to see the things I could not see during head removal. Thanks to the member that posted the link.

https://secure.flickr.com/photos/68442076@N02/sets/72157629389449367/

Yes.. this is the correct way. This is from GDE. I added a few remarks and things to help people. See post viewtopic.php?f=5&t=78018

Good luck,
KJJET

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:01 am

flman wrote:

What ever, you get out you 10 MM stick it in the hole in the pulley, meanwhile I am loosening the first bolt behind the pulley with my 10 MM and you are starting on your first pully bolt using one hand to hold the 10 MM and another on the pulley bolt. Sounds like you are just trying to start a pissing contest to me? Out of respect for 65Corvair, who is looking for guidance rather then a flame fest. I am going to let you have the last go at your contest, that way you can claim victory too. :roll:

Geez, you two are fighting over 2 minutes more or less, lol. I also removed it, easier to take it out and not rotate it, plus more space after :p

65Corvair · **Posted:** Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:49 am

Tonight I removed the timing belt, cam pulleys, idlers and tensioner. With a 1/4 allen key for the crank pin. When i removed the crown idlers, there was a little play in the bearings and grease thrown around the edges. (Very happy to have those crappy parts out)
- FCV was removed
-Inner timing cover removed

I now have all of the harness disconnected from the passenger side of the vehicle and flopped onto the brake master cylinder area. The connector for the fuel rail pressure sensor took me 30 min to get disconnected. It is in a awful spot.

In preparation for removing the the injectors i sprayed the fittings with PB Blaster and will be removing them on Saturday.

flman · **Posted:** Fri Feb 07, 2014 8:02 am

65Corvair wrote:

Tonight I removed the timing belt, cam pulleys, idlers and tensioner. With a 1/4 allen key for the crank pin. When i removed the crown idlers, there was a little play in the bearings and grease thrown around the edges. (Very happy to have those crappy parts out)
- FCV was removed
-Inner timing cover removed

I now have all of the harness disconnected from the passenger side of the vehicle and flopped onto the brake master cylinder area. The connector for the fuel rail pressure sensor took me 30 min to get disconnected. It is in a awful spot.

In preparation for removing the the injectors i sprayed the fittings with PB Blaster and will be removing them on Saturday.

I had the puller all ready for my injectors and they all pulled out real easy with my bear hands.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 07, 2014 5:29 pm

65Corvair wrote:

Tonight I removed the timing belt, cam pulleys, idlers and tensioner. With a 1/4 allen key for the crank pin. When i removed the crown idlers, there was a little play in the bearings and grease thrown around the edges. (Very happy to have those crappy parts out)
- FCV was removed
-Inner timing cover removed

I now have all of the harness disconnected from the passenger side of the vehicle and flopped onto the brake master cylinder area. The connector for the fuel rail pressure sensor took me 30 min to get disconnected. It is in a awful spot.

In preparation for removing the the injectors i sprayed the fittings with PB Blaster and will be removing them on Saturday.

I used one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-ti ... -1759.html

...and some wiggling to get mine out. The fork grabbed the fat part of the injector pretty well, andI was able to kind of wedge the tool in the channel that runs through the intake. I didn't use a lot of force on the tool, but it gave a nice straight up lift that worked well when I wiggled the injectors while doing it.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Rotating the injectors left/right..."wiggle" trick and then pulling with rotation...most times they pop right out.

dthdcrd · **Posted:** Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:57 am

Just remember to use new o rings and copper washers when reinstalling. The first time I did my ARP studs only I popped each injector out by hand with ease. I did not have the new o rings etc when I put them back in and one of them had a slight pinch in the o ring. When I did the head gasket job last week, the injector with the pinched o ring was near impossible to get out. Even with the tool. In six months, since the stud replacement, carbon had built up in the injector cavity and hardened like cement! This added 1/2 hr to the job.

x-tech · **Posted:** Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:42 am

A tip that worked well for me when I did the ARP bolt to stud swap. I was having trouble breaking the head bolts loose until I started striking them hard a couple or three times with a medium size hammer and long flat nose punch. I hit them at an angle not straight down. worked great MUCH less breakaway torque required and no bolt distortion. I think the steel bolt heads bond to the aluminum head over time. Good luck....... Pete

65Corvair · **Posted:** Sat Feb 08, 2014 5:18 pm

THE CYLINDER HEAD IS REMOVED!!

I'm running a bit late to work, so I will post more details later.

I would like to thank everyone here on their help with this, it's greatly appreciated.

camo · **Posted:** Sat Feb 08, 2014 7:02 pm

Please post if the universal twin cam sprocket holder tool worked.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:34 pm

Since getting my cylinder head off I have sent my injectors to a local place to have them tested/cleaned. And today I dropped my cylinder head off at a local speed shop to have it checked for flatness and to get all the intake passages clean from EGR tar.
I also drilled tapped my exhaust manifold for a EGT sensor and received my thread adapter from glowshift to use a threaded hole already on the intake.

Thread Adapter (M8-1/8NPT)
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/glowshift-boost-gauge-bolt-adapter.aspx

Next up is to get my oil pressure gauge installed (geordi) and to eliminate a few potential leak points for coolant .(CATCRD)
Oil Pressure Gauge: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=74754
Coolant Routing: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=75401&p=791711&hilit=m12#p791711

The above coolant routing eliminates the hard metal coolant line that runs right behind the inner timing cover. I also may remove the EGR completely with this. (Been doing a lot of diggin' in LOST)
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57434

JcGilmour · **Posted:** Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:51 pm

For those of you that have little or no heat and suspect a head gasket leak with your CRD, here is a super easy combustion gas leak test.
Insert a foot of clear plastic, but reinforced tubing at the coolant recovery tank.

There is a 3/8" return line that runs from the engine side of the thermostat (thermostat housing) to the recovery tank top, right by the cap.
This line is used to vent any air out of the cylinder head and into the recovery tank where any air/liquid can be separated. There is a bit of a sight window provided in the recovery tank where this line connects but I found it difficult to spend a couple of thousand bucks based on a "maybe" view of the bubbles/foam returning from this line. The clear plastic provides an easy view.

Start the engine and if you observe a continuous stream of bubbles or foam returning to the tank, you, like me, are or will be poorer because of it.

As of this writing, mine is still at the Stealer. They/me decided the head face was questionable enough to require broaching and why not grind the valves and replace the seals at the same time (200,000 Km's)
Pictures here: https://plus.google.com/photos/11481099 ... banner=pwa

JieselDeep · **Posted:** Thu Feb 13, 2014 2:00 pm

Anyone tried this sealey holder? http://www.ccw-tools.com/Sealey-Power-Tools/Vehicle-Service-Tools/Setting-&-Locking-Tools/Chrysler-Locking-Tools/Sealey-VSE5056---Diesel-Engine-Timing-Kit---ChryslerLDV-2.5CRD---Belt-Drive/p-4-8-9-3654-35341/

It says it's for the UK version of our engines, so it seems like it should be good for us here in the US too!

I couldn't find the VS777 sealey universal tool anywhere, but I did find this guy.

bugnout · **Posted:** Thu Feb 13, 2014 2:54 pm

That is the set I have. They ship pretty quickly. Couldn't find it in the states.

jcGilmour and JieselDeep, Lets try not to highjack 65Corvair's thread.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:17 pm

I visited the shop where I took my cylinder head, they say it's flat. (Never been overheated as far as I know)

However, the head gasket left rings on the head around .002 inch deep. The shop says it is possible to mill it down .003 and to use the next thicker head gasket. He said he has done this on other diesel applications and it works well. My engine had a 1 hole gasket, so going to a thicker head gasket is possible. Head gasket thickness increase by .1 mm and that converts to about .0039 inches. The shop also recommends using ARP head studs.

JcGilmour · **Posted:** Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:24 pm

65Corvair wrote:

I visited the shop where I took my cylinder head, they say it's flat. (Never been overheated as far as I know)

However, the head gasket left rings on the head around .002 inch deep. The shop says it is possible to mill it down .003 and to use the next thicker head gasket. He said he has done this on other diesel applications and it works well. My engine had a 1 hole gasket, so going to a thicker head gasket is possible. Head gasket thickness increase by .1 mm and that converts to about .0039 inches. The shop also recommends using ARP head studs.

I just went through this. My head was also flat but had some deformation around combustion sealing area. The shop took 0.005" off the head. Be careful with messing with gaskets. The gasket thickness is determined by the liner height above the block and not the head thickness. 5 thou off the surface is trivial in my opinion.

camo · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 12:24 am

JieselDeep wrote:

Anyone tried this sealey holder? http://www.ccw-tools.com/Sealey-Power-Tools/Vehicle-Service-Tools/Setting-&-Locking-Tools/Chrysler-Locking-Tools/Sealey-VSE5056---Diesel-Engine-Timing-Kit---ChryslerLDV-2.5CRD---Belt-Drive/p-4-8-9-3654-35341/

It says it's for the UK version of our engines, so it seems like it should be good for us here in the US too!

I couldn't find the VS777 sealey universal tool anywhere, but I did find this guy.

It works like a charm and those guys ship quicker then many US sellers.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:50 pm

camo wrote:

JieselDeep wrote:

Anyone tried this sealey holder? http://www.ccw-tools.com/Sealey-Power-Tools/Vehicle-Service-Tools/Setting-&-Locking-Tools/Chrysler-Locking-Tools/Sealey-VSE5056---Diesel-Engine-Timing-Kit---ChryslerLDV-2.5CRD---Belt-Drive/p-4-8-9-3654-35341/

It says it's for the UK version of our engines, so it seems like it should be good for us here in the US too!

I couldn't find the VS777 sealey universal tool anywhere, but I did find this guy.

It works like a charm and those guys ship quicker then many US sellers.

Correct, I can confirm what camo said, the kit works great. You can also try sourcing it from eBay.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:18 pm

Based on JcGilmour said, I will keep my 1 hole gasket (because of the distance between the top of the block and the cylinder liner height is not changing) and still get 3 thousandths get milled off my cylinder head.

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:24 am

65Corvair wrote:

I visited the shop where I took my cylinder head, they say it's flat. (Never been overheated as far as I know)
However, the head gasket left rings on the head around .002 inch deep. The shop says it is possible to mill it down .003 and to use the next thicker head gasket. He said he has done this on other diesel applications and it works well. My engine had a 1 hole gasket, so going to a thicker head gasket is possible. Head gasket thickness increase by .1 mm and that converts to about .0039 inches. The shop also recommends using ARP head studs.

My machine shop did the same for my head, but I think he split the difference. Took just enough off so you couldn't feel the grooves, but could still see the faint impression. Since your not milling the block deck, you can stick with the one hole gasket.

65Corvair's Head Gasket Replacement

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