Frozen Fuel Line?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 13, 2015 3:50 pm

You can mount it in the engine bay like flman did which seems to work fine or you can mount it back nearer the tank per http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/kennedy.htm

A good inline pump option, decent psi and flow thru design so if it fails the CP3 can still pull fuel, is the Facet 40109 (http://www.yachtsupplydepot.com/index.p ... ory&search[keywords]=40109)

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:00 pm

If you mount the pump anywhere other than inside the tank, it is having to suck the fuel out of the tank and any leak anywhere on the suction side of a pump will ingest air into the system feeding the CP3 injection pump!
*(Bad on pump and especially injectors) :grim:

They only sure way of insuring NO air in a fuel system is to put the pump inside the tank; then the entire system is always under pressure from tank to CP3 pump, no suction and not prone to air inleakage at fittings, filters, connections, etc... :mrgreen:

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:51 pm

Did you get it started fatweasel?

100% biodiesel gelled in my CRD only once. When this happened, the primer bulb had a very large vacuum on it. It was sucked down all the way. Some blankets, a space heater and some afternoon sunshine got her going again.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 13, 2015 7:23 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

If you mount the pump anywhere other than inside the tank, it is having to suck the fuel out of the tank and any leak anywhere on the suction side of a pump will ingest air into the system feeding the CP3 injection pump!
*(Bad on pump and especially injectors) :grim:

They only sure way of insuring NO air in a fuel system is to put the pump inside the tank; then the entire system is always under pressure from tank to CP3 pump, no suction and not prone to air inleakage at fittings, filters, connections, etc... :mrgreen:

How do you know it is pumping air, I sure do not see any bubbles going through the glass filter? And what if I had no additional pump at all like many CRDs still do, are they not going to pump air, and how many CP3 pumps do you hear about failing from a momentary air bubble? Is the pump with its special coating going to be dry so long that it creates friction, gets hot and melts down? And the rail is higher then the injectors, so any air is going back with the return.

Mine both work fine with the 1/2 hour install. And I have yet to get the code for large fuel leak, or starting problems, and the weird hi revs going no where since I installed them, so I guess the pump and rail have been happy?

Will let you know when the pump and injectors fail. :roll:

tomavery · **Joined:** Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:49 pm **Posts:** 2

We were in Michigan on that same day , same problem. 06, CRD. Ours does not have a heater element. It did a one time start and 10 second die then nothing. The way we got it started was pumping the filter button about 10 times, and putting ether in the air intake. Also added something called diesel 911 to the fuel, and topped up with Michigan diesel. Then later when I had to let it sit again I just pumped it once or twice and it fired up. Once the new fuel and additive got flowing no need to pump the filter. It got us back to Arkansas after that.

flman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 15, 2015 6:56 pm

Consider yourself lucky you did not do damage to the engine with either. I have used it before on cast iron headed diesels. But only after I knew there was no glow plugs burning.

fatweasel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 17, 2015 7:12 am

Received new filter head (with filter) on Thursday. Pretty quick job, installed in about 30 minutes, and I am back up and running!

tedder · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:19 pm **Posts:** 137

ROKTAXI wrote:

Where did you mount the in-line fuel pump? And where did you splice in for the electrical?

I mounted it just aft of where the fuel lines bend straight coming from the fuel tank. I used the power from the blue/org wire under the rear driver side carpet. Fed it through the electrical wire feed through hole under the carpet. It's kind of hard to get to the wires so I fed the pump wire from the outside in. I hooked the neg. to the self tapping screw that I used to mount the bracket to the body.

flman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 04, 2015 7:08 pm

Wiring the inline fuel under the hood.

Here is a pic, open the box near the battery and pull the relay same as I have removed, put the hot wire into the center terminal and push the relay back in. Do not put in in the terminal to the left or and any of the terminals in the group of 3 to the right. Other lead goes to ground.

This will allow the pump to run for 20 seconds before the engine starts, and to run as long as the engine is running, it will shut in down in case of accident if the engine stops running to prevent fuel being constantly pumped.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 2:30 pm

flman wrote:

Wiring the inline fuel under the hood.

Here is a pic, open the box near the battery and pull the relay same as I have removed, put the hot wire into the center terminal and push the relay back in. Do not put in in the terminal to the left or and any of the terminals in the group of 3 to the right. Other lead goes to ground.

This will allow the pump to run for 20 seconds before the engine starts, and to run as long as the engine is running, it will shut in down in case of accident if the engine stops running to prevent fuel being constantly pumped.

That's actually a good idea that I didn't consider when I installed my inline (to stop fuel in an accident). Does the "factory" fuel pump wiring stop the power to the fuel pump in case of an accident?

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 4:00 pm

My setup is just like flman's. It's been working great for 2+ years.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 8:02 pm

thermorex wrote:

flman wrote:

That's actually a good idea that I didn't consider when I installed my inline (to stop fuel in an accident). Does the "factory" fuel pump wiring stop the power to the fuel pump in case of an accident?

I would think that same relay is running the factory wiring. If you can hear your pump, it should shut off in 20 seconds no start with the key on.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 9:03 pm

ECM fuel lift pump logic cuts power soon as the crankshaft stops turning, accident or not - pump will continue to run if engine is running and driver is unconscious or incapacitated and cannot switch IGN off

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:40 am

gmctd wrote:

ECM fuel lift pump logic cuts power soon as the crankshaft stops turning, accident or not - pump will continue to run if engine is running and driver is unconscious or incapacitated and cannot switch IGN off

Cool, that's what I was curious about. My inline pump runs as long as ignition is on (this is what I wanted for when I replace the fuel filter) but I think I should implement some "safety" measures, just in case.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2015 4:44 pm

thermorex wrote:

gmctd wrote:

ECM fuel lift pump logic cuts power soon as the crankshaft stops turning, accident or not - pump will continue to run if engine is running and driver is unconscious or incapacitated and cannot switch IGN off

Cool, that's what I was curious about. My inline pump runs as long as ignition is on (this is what I wanted for when I replace the fuel filter) but I think I should implement some "safety" measures, just in case.

I just cycle the key a few times, like I do with my Sprinters that have the factory electric pump. You could just leave an additional wire under the hood and run it direct to the battery for bleeding purposes.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:01 pm

flman wrote:

thermorex wrote:

gmctd wrote:

ECM fuel lift pump logic cuts power soon as the crankshaft stops turning, accident or not - pump will continue to run if engine is running and driver is unconscious or incapacitated and cannot switch IGN off

Cool, that's what I was curious about. My inline pump runs as long as ignition is on (this is what I wanted for when I replace the fuel filter) but I think I should implement some "safety" measures, just in case.

I just cycle the key a few times, like I do with my Sprinters that have the factory electric pump. You could just leave an additional wire under the hood and run it direct to the battery for bleeding purposes.

Can't cycle, I don't want to put wear and tear on the ignition... Lol. I was thinking on making a switch between the + line from fuse panel and another +, like one from the battery, so for bleeding, this switch would turn on the pump permanently w/o the need to turn ignition on.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 4:53 pm

[quote="gmctd"][/quote]
ECM fuel lift pump logic cuts power soon as the crankshaft stops turning, accident or not
- pump will continue to run if engine is running and driver is unconscious or incapacitated and cannot switch IGN off
- ECM cuts power when crank stops turning, IGN still on, as in event of accident
- ECM has 20-sec "purge" logic for replacing fuel filter
- 1. at IGN ON, anytime battery has been disconnected\reconnected
- 2. battery not disconnected: cycle key ON-OFF-ON for 20 sec purge

Normal operation:
- ECM runs pump ~5sec for "prime" at each IGN ON
- pump stops if crank is not rotating, IGN ON
- pump re-starts when crank rotates

Frozen Fuel Line?

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