My 05CRD has started stalling,Crank position sensor problem

Drifter · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:41 am **Posts:** 32

Not sure if they have what your looking for but worth a shot to check ...
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm

pjigar · **Posted:** Thu Sep 10, 2015 7:22 am

Or steal some pins from a junk yard. Or improvise like I posted in main lift pump install thread.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=37868&start=20

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Sep 13, 2015 5:35 pm

JEBCRD wrote:

ok, i got my fuel pump in today and am planning to install it this weekend. I'm trying to locate some connectors and the post someone had a link to for some from Mouser shows to only purchase like thousands of them i only need a few. Does anybody know where i can get the connectors needed to use in the factory plug. I'm putting in a mopar OEM truck pump and want to keep it close to original .

This is why we buy a gasser harness or get a use one, - just for the few wires we need to install into the existing harness or use the new harness.

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:09 pm

Ok an update to my problem. I got the in tank fuel pump in and wired up, the pump and gauge work beautiful. I took her out for a test drive and the same think is still happening. I will be driving and just like you cut the key off it dies. I was able to pull over and I tried to start and no start. It would crank over but not hit. I sat there waiting on wife to bring me my meter because at this point I'm thinking its a battery going south but my meter showed 12.6 volts. I tried to start and it started. I headed home. I got about two miles and it stalled again. I pulled over. I tried to start again, cranked but no start. I let sit for 10 min and tried again to start and it starts. I go maybe a mile and it quits again. All this time I'm running 14.1 volts so don't think it's voltage and don't think it's fuel with new tank pump.
So what could it be? It's like it's getting hot and shutting down. I've checked my codes and get no codes. I'm stumped! I read that a throttle sensor might cause this with out giving a code. Anybody got any suggestions.

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ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:08 pm

crankshaft or camshaft position sensors

electrical things tend to work well when cold and go open when hot..

you can measure resistance cold - blow them with a hairdryer and see if they change

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:13 pm

The most likely suspect is now the crankshaft position sensor.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:16 pm

I concur, most likely a sensor problem. A crankshaft sensor can cause this and may never set a code unfortunately... :roll:

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:17 pm

Thanks. I'll be checking that out next. It's funny I've read some post on here where others have had similar problems and will be reading thu the thread and all these suggestions and hardly any of them come back and tell whether the suggestions fixed the problem or what they did to fix it. I for one will follow up on this one. I know I'm better off now with the lift pump installed. It gives me piece of mind. Now got to do my other one.

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JEBCRD · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 5:40 pm

Well I'm a little confused. Which one of the sensors should I be looking at first the crankshaft or camshaft sensor. It's been suggested both.
A little info: when all this started the rig first started to spit and sputter like it was going to die and then pick back up. Then it got to where it was skipping the sputtering and just dies.
I've started it now sitting in driveway and it took quit a while before it died I've restarted twice and each time the run time before dying again was half the time so most likely caused by heating up. And it won't restart until its sit for a little.
How can I check these sensors to see if they are bad?

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thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:02 pm

My bet is on the crank sensor. You can measure the resistance, or easier, if engine starts, blow heat on the crankshaft sensor and see if the engine stops, this indicates a bad sensor.

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 3:04 pm

I'm just a wondering could my problem be an injector? How would one go about checking injectors for one sticking?

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thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 4:41 pm

If injector(s) are bad, it is more likely the vehicle would start when hot than when cold. Unless the electric part of the injector is broken. Which would trigger a Cel more than likely.

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 5:57 pm

well , it could be injector , but majority of people say , that injector are bullet proof , i don't know but it is worth to check them .

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 6:19 pm

JEBCRD wrote:

I'm just a wondering could my problem be an injector? How would one go about checking injectors for one sticking?

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Well, if you really think so, you could pull all four injectors and send them out to be tested.
But I think you will find that the replacing the crankshaft sensor is quicker and less expensive.

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 6:26 pm

Ok I think I'll try the sensor but help me with which one. I've looked them up on mopar online parts and it shows :
CRNK SENSOR
#5140319aa for $11.37

CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR #5066882aa $59.57
And where's it located on the rig. I'm thinking right side to rear of engine. Sorry about so many questions I just want to Oder the right part.

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flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 6:40 pm

This one

JEBCRD wrote:

CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR #5066882aa $59.57

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:00 pm

Another vote for crank sensor

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 25, 2015 11:21 pm

My vote is the crank sensor too. Your stumbling issues may have been the sensor sending garbage information and confusing the computer, but more likely it was a combination of the crank sensor failing and the fuel system having air in it.

If whatever source you have is not in stock, IDparts has it for a bit more money.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 26, 2015 6:41 am

Save yourself some money, Autozone has the crank sensor, cost is less than most other sources. :wink:

Part Number: SU8492
I bought one early last year from them and replaced my crank sensor when motor started cutting off and missing at times.
Part looked just like the OEM one I removed and I believe the new one was a Bosch brand in their Autozone box.
Part still working fine to this day...

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Sat Sep 26, 2015 8:28 am

Thanks a bunch on the autozone tip. I didn't think to call them. I called and checked a couple parts stores in my little country town and all said would have to order it. Of course I can do that my self.
This is what I have planned today. My daughter is In with my other KJ and I plan to pull the sensor off it and put on the one giving trouble. I have one ordered but won't be here till first of next week.
Now I'm having a problem actually locating the crank sensor. Can someone point out the area it is and how's the best way to get to it. From top or under rig. The book shows it on the back of block with a corded plug. I didnt know if that was right or for another engine perhaps. The part number above I ordered showed a pic of a solid piece with plug directly on top like the cam sensor. So is it on the back of engine passenger side? Thanks a lot fellows. I couldn't own one of these much less two with out this bunch.

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My 05CRD has started stalling,Crank position sensor problem

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