Cranks, no start - solved

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 21, 2015 2:28 pm

Rixram wrote:

Best of luck to you, and let us know how it works out.

Note: For me, working in that region of the engine, what works for me to to lay in-line with the vehicle, not perpendicular. Head towards front, feet towards back. Makes it much easier for me to get anything done in that spot.

I changed my CPS from underneath, was not a bad job at all...I did have it on ramps!!!
And, when my CPS first went bad, it put me on the side of the road the first time and NO codes were present. Several days later, when it skipped one morning during the warm-up cycle, it finely set a CPS code ...

Rixram · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 7:58 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Rixram wrote:

Best of luck to you, and let us know how it works out.

Note: For me, working in that region of the engine, what works for me to to lay in-line with the vehicle, not perpendicular. Head towards front, feet towards back. Makes it much easier for me to get anything done in that spot.

I changed my CPS from underneath, was not a bad job at all...I did have it on ramps!!!
And, when my CPS first went bad, it put me on the side of the road the first time and NO codes were present. Several days later, when it skipped one morning during the warm-up cycle, it finely set a CPS code ...

Mine actually never threw any code for it. That is part of what made it so godsdamn difficult to diagnose... Thought it was an air leak in the fuel lines.

dyneq · **Joined:** Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:01 pm **Posts:** 22

It's been a week since I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I wanted to wait until it consistently started before posting. The sensor was what was causing my no start condition. Some notes:

I ordered the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PC766 for $56 shipped, and it said Bosch on the part.

This is not a huge project if you access from below. However, it's not super easy either. I jacked it up on the passenger side and slid under. You have to reach your hand up a small gap near the oil filter and exhaust downpipe. Once your hand is in there, you have to maneuver the tools in to a position where you can get leverage on the nuts. I'd recommend having a variety of different wrenches, extensions, u-joints, etc. on hand. Before I started, I took my trouble light and stuck it up inside the cavity off to the side so I could see what I was doing. It ended up taking me 1.5-2 hours which was totally worth it to me considering the quotes I got to replace (3 hrs labor plus premium part cost).

Thanks very much to all that responded.

Cranks, no start - solved

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