06 CRD Turbo #2 HELP

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2016 7:03 pm

Thoughts not necessarily in proper order.
1. pull airbox to turbo hose; grab the little fan thing at the turbo inlet; pull/push and then wiggle side to side; if it has no more than a tiny bit of fore/aft play and barely perceptible side to side play then turbo is fine.
2. if that hose is torn on bottom just in front of turbo it will weep CCV oil direct to ground; replace a torn hose; be sure air box end is touching MAF sensor before tightening clamp or you will crush air box outlet.
3. CCV hose to airbox to turbo hose if solid just needs cleaning
4. turbo oil supply line is high pressure and has solid fittings at both ends that should no leak if tightened properly.
5. turbo drain line is low pressure and probably won't leak at upper end gasket but will weep, harmlessly, at the push fit grommet into the block.
6. judging by the woven covering on your CAC hoses they are original and probably totally oil soaked and weeping boost if not split - replace with good idparts hoses.
7. see NOOB guide on cleaning MAP sensor and clean it.

Critical to turbo health on any engine is proper oil and turbo cool down per Owner's Manual.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Thank you, I will most likely change it and then clean everything real good. I'm hoping that these parts will solve the oil issues and all that's left is the timing belt, and this stupid groan noise that I have yet to diagnose.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2016 11:01 pm

If your oil filter was put on with the old oring still in place, it will dump all your oil out real fast (< 1 minute).

I bet it's the turbo return or feed line causing most of it and maybe a little from your oil soaked intake hose.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

I don't think that is necessarily true. I used to work for a dealership and saw plent of double gasket filters come in and just had a leak. The areas with the oil leak above do not connect with the oil filter oil drilling and when the engine is running you can watch the oil seeping out from the flange of the filter down the filter and dripping. This i am going to attempt to make the dealership eat.

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2016 7:03 pm

since i plumbed blow by hose into frame rail ( passenger side ) no oil dripping from turbo snail onto motor mount , and it does not freezes because i didn't like home made prevent with steel wool inside , also , do not idle this engine to long and don't run it cold short trips, check thermostat and do not over fill oil level .

pjigar · **Posted:** Thu Jan 14, 2016 7:21 pm

The small metal hose going from turbo to block is the oil return line from turbo. I had the exact same scene/pictures when I bought my Libby. Both stealership and I concluded the same thing that the oil return line is leaking, only to be proved wrong later! It turned out to be a rotten CAC hose going from air box to turbo inlet. Yours seems to be the same issue. You can clearly see faint oil marks at the base of CAC hose by the turbo. This oil drips down all over below making you think that the turbo oil return is leaking.

As others have said, your boost hoses are probably leaking which will cause all kind of response/RPM issues.

And last but not the least, Here is what you need to do if you want to confirm that your turbo is out. Remove CAC hose between air box and turbo. Hold the turbo impeller with you fingers and try to wiggle it side-by-side and back-to-aft. You should have barely perceivable side to side movement and slight back to aft movement. If side-to-side movement is more that 1/16" then turbo is going out.

To disable EGR, remove the top connector on the air box. It will cause CEL.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

I'm back, lol the jeep has sat all winter since I last posted. After a new battery it's alive just fine. I bought Mobil 1 0w-40 and will be doing the oil change this weekend to fix my oil leak and I will be ordering the ID Silicone turbo tubes and inlet tube. Then to figure out what the whoomp whoomp whoomp noise is. I think it's a CV shaft or wheel bearing.

Hoping to have the timing belt done soon and get this thing semi reliable again.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Just ordered IDparts Blue Silicone inter cooler tubes and air intake tube. Also did an oil change today with Mobil1 0w-40 and a new Duralast Gold battery.

Geordi will be doing the timing belt next month.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 19, 2016 9:22 pm

Just an FYI most of us have switched to 5w-40, the 0w-40 is too thin and doesnt hold the soot in suspension properly. Its one of the main reasons the rockers fail. These motors were designed for 5w-40, but chrysler switched to 0w-40 to increase the mpg.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Thanks for the heads up. I only used 0W-40 because it was posted on here as being the manufacturers suggested weight and 5W-40 was not available when was shopping for oil. I'll try and find 5W-40 for the next oil change.

I need to go back and get one more quart though because I did exactly 6 quarts forgetting it was 6.4 qt. the dip stick is at the min marking.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:46 am

For those who live in hotter regions and would like to run a little heavier weight oil, Royal Purple makes a very good 10w30 and 15w40 full synthetic commercial diesel oil.
Most chain parts stores now carry it along with some Walmarts. I have been running it in my Dodge Cummins diesel for 10+ years and now am using it in the Jeep CRD during the hotter summer months... :wink:

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

I used to use 10W-30 Royal Purple in my 4.0L Cherokee and 5W-30 RP in my 4.7L WK. I switched to Mobil1 full synthetic in my 4.7L because I read a lot of bad articles about the RP.

This Liberty has always been serviced at one of two dealerships so this was the first time doing the oil change myself. I'm pretty sure it's always has Mobile1 0W-40 or 5W-40 used.

What interval is most commonly used? 5 months or 5k miles or 7500 Etc? I know some trucks go 15k mi.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 20, 2016 11:22 am

06NHLibertyCRD wrote:

What interval is most commonly used? 5 months or 5k miles or 7500 Etc? I know some trucks go 15k mi.

I use the 5k rule...
Were you using the RP for gas motors, or the RP duralec designed just for diesel engines?
Never read anything bad about RP duralec for diesels...

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Yes I was using RP in Jeep 4.0L and 4.7L gas engines.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:08 am

06NHLibertyCRD wrote:

Thanks for the heads up. I only used 0W-40 because it was posted on here as being the manufacturers suggested weight and 5W-40 was not available when was shopping for oil. I'll try and find 5W-40 for the next oil change.

I need to go back and get one more quart though because I did exactly 6 quarts forgetting it was 6.4 qt. the dip stick is at the min marking.

Its most important that you use an oil rated for use in diesel engines.
I know that some folks in the northern states and canada can get Mobil 1 Delvac 0w-40.
But for the rest of us, whats available usually includes:
Mobil 1 Delvac 5w-40
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 (same stuff as the Delvac 5w-40)
Shell Rotella T6 5w-40
Chevron Delo LE 5w-40 (this is what I use)

Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0w-40 (meets the absolute minimum spec for use in a turbo diesel engine and I would not recommend it, although I'm sure others would disagree)

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

So do I need to do another oil change with a different oil and filter now? Will this be ok for a short 3000k mile oil cycle and I can use a different oil next time?

According to Mobil1s website they do not offer a 0W-40 or 5W-40 in the United States that meets the requirements for this Jeep.

I wish I had known all of this before buying oil and doing the change. I searched on here and found a copy of what the owners manual said, saw 0/5W-40 and bought what I could find not realizing it needed to be diesel specific.

Ugh, some times I really hate this stupid jeep.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:59 am

You will be fine for now.
Just next time go for one of the heavy duty engine oils. They work better for diesels with turbochargers. (turbos get really really hot)

Rotella T6 5w-40, Delo 5w-40, and Mobil 1 TDT 5w-40 are all usually available at Walmart.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Ok thanks, it's only driven locally and minimally.

Walmart is where I bought the 0W-40.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:25 am

I use the rotella t6, its literally everywhere around here. The t6 is the dark blue bottle and is not cheap, but thats diesel.

Ive told my wife several times, when the jeep is down i hate the thing, ive even put it up for sale a couple times. But once its fixed i love it and prefer to drive it over everything else.

I guess thats the definition of a love/relationship

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

I have owned only jeeps my whole life until I bought my Hyundai SantaFe this past summer. Never have I had a more problematic time with jeeps until I started buying anything newer then 1998. My 05 WK was a headache and a problem as much as it was nice and fun to drive and this POS Liberty has been a problem literally since the day it was driven off the dealership lot brand new. I really miss my old '87, '94, '95, '98 Cherokees I've had.

I won't lie I really miss driving a jeep, but my next one will most likely be a JKU.

06 CRD Turbo #2 HELP

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