Thanks. I don't really WANT to shell out the cash for a rebuild, but considering they'll be using components better than stock, It should last a LONG time, and I plan on keeping it until the wheels fall off, then replacing the ball joints and doing it again.

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

Hey Dan, I don't think there is any need to rebuild the transmission based on what I read in the thread. I'm not an expert in transmissions tough, but I can tell you for sure that if you have clutch packs worn, you'll experience slippage similar to a worn manual transmission clutch, when the engine revs up and the vehicle barely moves. My take on this is that either solenoid pack or speed sensors are bad, either the valve body is sticking or has some worn springs in it. Since you replaced the speed sensors, that leaves the valve body and/or solenoid pack. Tcm can also be an issue and also you may have some bad wiring, is it possible to have a worn wire grounding somewhere?

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Thanks for the feedback. The TCM has been tried (two CRD models, one 02KJ and one 01 WJ controller) and all have identical (within reason) behavior. The harness has been checked for abrasion and shown nothing out of the ordinary. Not sure if they've done a pin-out test, but that might be reasonable since there aren't that many pins...Unfortunately that part's hard without dropping the transmission to get at it. The solenoid pack has been replaced and the fluids/filters have been inspected/replaced. I've not had slippage at all, so no problems engaging the gears, just selecting them (i.e. 2nd gets missed, hard shifts in/out of the others, TC not locking up where expected, OD slips out when you get get it to shift in the first place). There was no sign of mechanical damage (nothing more than a dusting of metal in the fluid or filters).

The shop thinks that it's a wear item (clutch(s), worn valve bore, etc.). They have a $600 labor charge for removal and basic teardown to inspect all the internals for damage. The full "overhaul" (not including any hard items which are damaged, which are not suspected) is about $2500 and I'm about a third into that already with filters, fluid, and solenoid pack. They use an aftermarket torque converter builder which improves on oem. I've asked them to match the specs of the updated euro TC from Mopar, and also heavier springs and better valves than stock. Even if it's only one or two clutch packs that are the problem, I'd rather pay a bit more while it's opened up and upgrade/refurbish all of it. My priorities are reliable, long-lasting, high-performance, affordable (in that order), so it feels like the right work to do for the situation (albeit I'm still wishing Chrysler would have just put a 6-speed manual in the darned thing...)

I haven't had a payment (nor a major repair other than the 100k service) in over 5 years, so I figure I'm due for something significant. I'll also be traveling with the family and don't need the vehicle for a week, so that's fortuitous.

Dan

_________________

2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids