The piece I'm talking about is that little kind of diamond shaped shiny piece below the elbow and between the intake stub and the rubber hose that connects those two on the left. It's really all you need to stop the egr. I'll mail it to you if you want.

Edit: It really depends on the inspector. We have members on here that have smogged their vehicles in S. CA, with the full weeks 1&2, and passed easily. Generally if it passes smog and has an original looking exhaust system they don't look any farther. With the weeks and an eco tune, your smog check will probably be better than stock.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

Yeah, I've already got the block off. I was going to make one, but $25 on ebay and I don't have to so I went that route.

As far as the Weeks go, there's always the chance it would pass, but it's not worth the risk of the cost and trouble to find out it doesn't. And, as I mentioned elsewhere, I have a good relationship with my smog shop... I have lots of cars and they have done 5-6 cars per year (10-12 every other) for a decade. I just don't want to hassle them or put them in a weird place. They cut me a good deal on what would cost me $400 annually. Just not gonna compromise that.

Sunday I got up early to work on the CRD. It was about 38 degrees, so I played video games until noon then headed out. When it was a balmy 45 degrees. The mission was replace the MAP sensor and the oil drain on the turbo. I have not reinstalled the engine covers yet, so the MAP sensor took about a minute. The oil drain tube came out pretty easy, maybe 20 minutes - mostly of that spent removing the intake tract. Here's old solid one & new flexible one if anyone cares:



Note that the flange on the old one is actually movable - there is a lip on the tube that mates to the turbo flange, and then a collar that holds it in place. IT'S AN IDIOT DESIGN. Garrett put a flange on their turbos in the 1970s and I have never, ever had one leak. But VM Motori decided to reinvent the wheel and, surprise, it leaks. I HATE when things have zero issues are changed to things that have issues. Drive me up the wall. The new design is the old design all over again. Grrr.

Install took about an hour - there is very little access and getting the gasket straight was difficult, but ultimately not a big deal. A small amount of Earl's Hose Assembly Lube and the tube slid right into the grommet. I used a long bolt on the "inside" (where I couldn't see) to get the gasket aligned, installed the "outside" bolt, removed the long bolt and put the right one back in. Whole operation took maybe an hour and a half, not a big deal. Not removing the elephant hose would have made it really, really difficult.

The test drive was... disappointing. The CEL is now off, but it's still leaking oil all over the place - even worse, and that is actually a good thing. The leak has been slight enough that tracking it down is difficult, but this time the entire front of the bellhousing adapter on the passenger side was soaked in oil. Like, soaked. I bit the bullet and removed all the heat shields around the turbo and I think I may have found the source - the oil gallery plug I previously suspected. With everything out of the way, I could feel pretty far behind the head and it seems dry(er) back there. I think high-pressure oil might be squirting from under that plug onto the adapter, where gravity and air blow it across the back of the motor. *Most* of the oil goes down the passenger side, but some goes down the middle and a tiny amount makes it over to the driver's side. I think.

It was not fun to remove, but a 6mm allen socket, a u-joint, and a long extension at least allowed me to work up top. If you've never seen it, it like an oil drain plug and has a similar copper sealing washer. Unfortunately I didn't have anything approximating the washer, so all I could do is clean it up and reinstall. I did put some high-temperature thread sealant on the threads - hopefully between that and a retorque it's solid. It was 6pm at that point, pitch black and probably 42 degrees out so I went in without a test drive... I guess that will have to wait until next weekend.

A couple questions:

1. Is the plug *supposed* to have a crush washer? I ask because the top of the threaded section has a bevel to it that looks like it's either supposed to seal directly against metal or *maybe* have an o-ring.

2. Does anyone know the size & thread of that plug? If this doesn't work, and it's really supposed to have that crush washer, I may just replace both plug & washer.

3. When removing the upper turbo heat shield, I found it was cracked where it mounts to the turbo. I think the two bolts on the manifold are enough to hold it for a while, but eventually it will probably fail entirely. Anyone have a part number or a source?

I'm more hopeful than I was this time last week!

One of the mounting point ears for my turbo heat shield on the turbo broke off when I was reinstalling it after blocking off the EGR feed tube at the exhaust manifold end.
I simply used some safety wire to hold the heat shield in place so it would not rattle; that has been over three years ago with no problems...

As to the oil passage sealing plugs & sealing washers: There actually are 4 ports along the oil galley on the side of the block, one is used as a feed to the turbo bearing, the others are simply plugged off.
Items 13 & 15 on the diagram! There are 3 plugs along with 3 sealing washers on the side of the block.
They call the seals: "Banjo Oil Pressure Sealing, WASHER, (14.2x17.9x1.5), size is mm
Seals Part Number: 04720704 ; 68148136AA
Plugs Part Number: 05066889AB

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/sho ... bly=676160

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

The plug is an M14 and yes it has a copper crush washer. I'd be surprised if it was leaking given how tight that one was in there when geordi and I used that back port to mount an oil pressure sending unit. More likely a leak in that area would be from the "ball" joint seal where the turbo pressure line mates to the upper oil gallery (next port forward). Also over on that side and a bit forward of the turbo is the oil cooler which can spring an oil leak or leak at the cooler base gasket.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks guys! Glad to know that washer is appropriate, and I have lots of options for M14 plugs... including an oil pressure sensor in the garage.

A while back I read a thread on here where someone went in for a RMS repair, and the dealer "tightened a plug" and called it good. That got me thinking about this. I do think it's a bit of a long shot, but at least it happened to someone else.

The top of the plug head was soaked in oil and grime, I couldn't even feel the hex until I'd wiped it clean, so there's that. When I removed it, it didn't crack like I'd expect it to - though it was a little tough to remove, it just kind of mushed off.

If one of the more forward locations was leaking - like the turbo oil feel banjo or oil cooler, I would expect that oil to also coat the exterior of the heat shield that goes over the crank sensor, and that heat shield is clean (well, dirty but not oily at all). With both the plug head and the crank sensor covered in oil and grime, I think the leak would have to be coming from either under the heat shield (this plug) or above it. Above it is still on the table, although I do think if the leak was a head gasket or valve cover, that oil would make its way onto the exterior of the heat shield at some point.

Thing is, part of the reason I've kept suspecting the RMS is because the oil was just appearing, there is no visible sign of a leak. I think the leak originating under the heat shield makes sense. It just appears on the bellhousing adapter below the heatshield, like it's coming from between the motor and transmission. There is *no* spotting or leaking except from that point - all the oil falls directly on the ground from the bottom of the oil pan & bellhousing. I was working too quickly last night (to beat the dark & cold) to get pictures, but I will try and grab one of the bellhousing adapter to share what I'm seeing... unfortunately the heat shield is already back in place, and honestly I don't think I could get a camera in there anyway.

Meh... it still could be leaking from anywhere and everywhere, but there are at least some direct signs that this may be it. Maybe.

Yeah, plug fixed nothing.

I put it back together this afternoon and let it idle for about 45 minutes in the driveway. I started from clean. About 15 minutes or so into warming up the first sign of the leak appeared, right between the bellhousing adapter and the bellhousing, same place as always. I let it go for a while, cleaning it up as oil accumulated - hoping against hope it was just oil that had previously accumulated and once heated was draining... of course that was not the case.

After about 30 minutes I wiped it clean, waited about five minutes, and took this picture:



which captures the leak perfectly.

The leak *always* originates at the flange directly above the oil filter. After a little while, it materializes on the bottom two bolts. A little later, behind the bellhousing adapter - between the adapter and the block. A little later, right below the starter.

After 45 minutes this is it, this is the leak. From nowhere else.

Here is a video taken about 20 minutes in, engine running and the leak, well, running. It's all on the bottom, it's all from "inside" with no oil anywhere outside. The oil cooler, turbo drain, gallery plugs, all of it dry as dry can be.

https://youtu.be/caUnsJXZGWg

I cannot think of any way this isn't the RMS. What is killing me is that I don't know why.

1. Bad install?
2. Crankcase pressure?
3. Crank play that murders the seal?
4. Gremlins?

Any ideas are welcome. I will go talk to the shop and get their position on the matter. But I am fed up with this. If they're not positive on the matter I don't think I will fight them, I'll scrap the Jeep. This has gone from a challenge to a waste of time.

Forgot to mention: Inexplicably, the electric fan is now always on. Pulling both high and low speed relays stops it, putting either one in results in it running at that speed. Fair to say the fans are being triggered on, rather than a stuck relay. HVAC is totally off, the fan is not on due to AC or defog, etc. Turns on the second the engine starts and stays on in perpetuity.

I just learned this: It seems that if the vent selector is on anything other than "0" with the heat on the fan runs, even if the AC is discharged and nonfunctional. Seems like a logic failure, but whatever.

In other news, continuing from my What's under the CCV Puck theory I ran the Jeep again this afternoon, but this time with both the oil cap and dipstick removed. First of all, huge mistake, oil spray everywhere. But, second, learning experience, drip dramatically reduced.

With the engine running, I observed a visible smoky puff from the dipstick tube in time with ignition events, and enough air force from the oil filler to float a paper towel. I realize these engines have a huge stroke and that the vacuum pump discharges into the crankcase, but this still seems excessive. The CCV is overwhelmed and crankcase pressure is forcing oil out the rear seal. I mean, with the puck actually sucking from the elephant hose, there just shouldn't be enough crank case pressure to blow on two other big openings. That's what I think.

Here's what I'm seeing:

https://youtu.be/tqk3f8E88ds

I have a good leak down tester, but I think I'd need adapters for the glow plug holes to use it... or maybe the injectors get removed? I do not have any way of actually measuring blowby. But, really, just this visual - which clearly I should have done before buying - tells a good story I think.

Video looks pretty normal to me.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I am going to try and rig up some pressure gauge (which may or may not show anything) but it seems to me if relieving pressure has an effect on the leak, then there is excess pressure in the crank case to start.

But, seriously, I am grasping at straws.

LOL, I've made that mistake before too. The amount of air that comes out of these even at idle is ridiculous. Yellow T-shirt was instantly covered in specks of black oil. Whoops

The "official" tool is the VM.1072A, which gets installed in place of an injector. If you can find an M10-1.0 adapter you could probably connect it to the glow plug holes, but you're going to have to tear apart the intake plumbing to get to some of the plugs.

Ah, I've seen VM.1072A references but didn't know what it was. I'll see if I can score - failing that I'll rent one from Sasquatch.

This problem is killing me. I hate not winning at cars and it's been a long, long time since I've been genuinely stumped. In a lot of scenarios I'd just blame the shop that did the RMS not doing something right, but the owner seemed *very* conscientious. Even if something wasn't quite right, I have a hard time accepting a brand improperly installed seal would leak in the same way, in the same amount, as a supposedly old, trashed seal. I'm even having a hard time understanding how an RMS can leak *this much* in the first place.

Anyway, I put some dye in it last night and ran it for another 30 minutes or so hoping to see something. I saw nothing except oil from the same places. This time I laid under the driver's side ... for whatever reason I'm usually under the passenger side. After a while, oil started leaking from the starter - and I don't mean from the starter flange, but from a hole in the starter body! There is not enough room to fully get my hand above the starter, but where I could feel was not wet and my hand came back with just grime, no dye. I don't know how oil gets inside a starter, and unfortunately it's not possible to remove the starter and see. The lack of an inspection hole on this setup is really annoying.

I literally don't know how else to proceed. The leak is coming from somewhere I can't see, and I can't determine what I could even move to gain access. I have a boroscope, but haven't been able to see anything with it, either.

With a leakdown test I can eliminate blowby, but you all seem to think what I've got is normal. Short of that, the only thing I can think to do is pull the motor and hope the dye left a trace. Maybe a cracked block? Crank walk? Bad bottom end and crank play?

None of the hard parts for the motor seem all that expensive. Maybe the answer is tear down the motor, have the block magnafluxed and put it back together. It's got 180k on it, it's going to need a head gasket and a timing belt anyway. Pulling the motor isn't *that* much work. I just really don't want to do all that, put it back together, and have missed the leak. I don't know how to guarantee success.

You could run it without oil. That's guaranteed to work.

Sorry I couldnt help it.

_________________
2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Friendly reminder; do not forget that expansion plug on the back of the block, item 11 on the diagram. That plug appears to be at the end of one of the main oil galleys and if it is leaking, oil would be leaking inside the bell housing behind the flex plate and getting slung all over the place...

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Oof. Don't I know it. A leak from a pressurized source seems more likely than a leak through the RMS or any other non-pressurized area.

I would happy to take it back over to Specialized and say "Hey, let's do this again, here's more money" but my fear is that would turn up nothing, or prevent looking at something else (bottom end bearings or block integrity, etc.). I feel like the only way through this is pulling the motor so that I can look at the mains, the crank, and I'm seriously considering just re-ringing it and having the block magnafluxed to be sure there are not cracks or porosity problems. Do the HG and TB at the same time. At this moment, I just don't know how else to be fully assured it's not wasted effort.

Assuming I don't need pistons (unlikely) or machine work (unlikely) and the block is intact (seems likely) then nothing here is that expensive. A few hundred bucks in rings, HG, TB, studs and a few hundred bucks in machine shop time. It's a huge amount of work, but it's the only safe way through I can think of. The crap bit is finding someone qualified to build the bottom end, because it isn't me.

We did that on a 24 Hours of Lemons car, relying on Prolong for way too long.

I have been noodling on a way to put a diaper on the skid plate to catch oil so it can just be driven for a while, but I do have a fear that whatever is leaking will utterly fail and dump the oil somewhere. That actually happened on my old diesel Suburban - prior to my ownership, and how I came to own it. It was "just a drip" until it was a catastrophic failure leaving oil all over the highway.