ARP head studs

Brianawd · **Joined:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:59 pm **Posts:** 130

From my understanding the 2.8 cummins is all cummins design now. They are no longer using any thing VM. They have a huge plant in china that is making them. This is to be the new motor that the Nissan frontier will have. Also talk about the Tacoma will have the same motor. We already know the titan is coming with the 5.0 cummins and looks like the tundra my also have the 5.0 cummins in the next few years. Both Nissan and Toyota are getting smart by using diesels from us made company. That way they they don't have to add the stupid diesel import tax to the price of the truck.

http://fotonauto.com.au/tunland/power

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:47 pm

Cummins builds a great engine, maybe the best Diesel? The bad part is they are going in Nissan & Toyota. I will never buy one of those. Japanese MFG, NO WAY ! NEVER

Brianawd · **Joined:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:59 pm **Posts:** 130

kjjet wrote:

Cummins builds a great engine, maybe the best Diesel? The bad part is they are going in Nissan & Toyota. I will never buy one of those. Japanese MFG, NO WAY ! NEVER

The reason why they are going the rout of cummins is because of the diesel import tax. Back in the late 70s the big three auto groups got the gov to impose a import tax on imported diesels. Thats when toyota,mitsubish stopped importing there small trucks with diesels because the import tax was driving the price of the trucks up to much.

By using motors from a us company they can now by pass that tax along with the cummins meets epa standards as it was designed from the ground up for us emissions.

Also
Tacoma and frontier are built in the states along with the tundra and titan.
The whole argument about us made does not stand any up any more. Most all the parts that go into a us made car are produced in some other country.

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:52 pm

I agree and get it. But the profits from big MFG's mostly stay within their country. What about engineering? I know our country dose not make much anymore, there is always hope they will turn it around. Plus...the thought of having one of those names on the back of my car, make me sick! Not Japanese. I won't do it. Sorry if that's offensive to anyone.

Enough of that! We have Jeeps to maintain.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:14 am

kjjet wrote:

I agree and get it. But the profits from big MFG's mostly stay within their country. What about engineering? I know our country dose not make much anymore, there is always hope they will turn it around. Plus...the thought of having one of those names on the back of my car, make me sick! Not Japanese. I won't do it. Sorry if that's offensive to anyone.

Enough of that! We have Jeeps to maintain.

With engines from Italy, air conditioning from Japan, rockers and lifters from Poland, seat covers from Bangladesh, water pumps from Germany, glow plugs from France, and damm near everything else from CHINA.

The thought that you have an "American" car anymore is comical. At least it was ASSEMBLED here in the USA by UAW union labor in Ohio.

Even in the anti-union deep South, VW has a union shop of USA UAW union labor assembling their vehicles here (the ones that aren't built in Burrito land or in Bavaria and shipped here) My 03 Wagon happens to be a Bavarian native, all the wagons were (and possibly still are) only built in Germany.

If the Cummins engine is to be built in China, that makes me sad. I won't buy anything from China if I can avoid it, because the Chinese could find a way to screw up the specs on a glass of water. There will be design and manufacturing issues on these engines, they will cheap out on something, and it will cause massive problems.

Want proof? Shop in Harbor Freight.

dthdcrd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:30 pm

Well, I am back at it. I did the ARP stud replacement only back in June and it did not hold up. My issue (pressure when I remove the cap and coolant in the overflow) has gotten worse. I now have fluctuating heat and the coolant pushes into the overflow much easier, not just while towing anymore. I regret not having done the entire job while do the studs considering I was so far into it. Water under the bridge now. It will only go faster this time around (in theory) Looking to start early Sat morning, I'll see if I can finish up in a day, if not I have sun open as well.

flman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:44 pm

dthdcrd wrote:

Well, I am back at it. I did the ARP stud replacement only back in June and it did not hold up. My issue (pressure when I remove the cap and coolant in the overflow) has gotten worse. I now have fluctuating heat and the coolant pushes into the overflow much easier, not just while towing anymore. I regret not having done the entire job while do the studs considering I was so far into it. Water under the bridge now. It will only go faster this time around (in theory) Looking to start early Sat morning, I'll see if I can finish up in a day, if not I have sun open as well.

Wow, I am glad I went all the way, btw were the OE head bolts even loose when you removed them? I only had 1 bolt that was slightly loose and it was no where near the HG leak.

Has any one had success with HG leak symptoms and ARP studs?

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:50 pm

You may want to take your time with it, rather than just changing the head gasket and throwing it back together.

Take the time to pull the head and have it inspected at a head shop to make sure it hasn't warped. Obviously you have something else going on, or the studs should have tightened things up. Either the gasket has delaminated somehow and is allowing the gasses to escape, or the liner protrusion wasn't measured properly and the head was sitting on the liners and not properly compressing the gasket... Or the head warped from the head gasket leak and now won't create a good seal.

If the head has warped, please tell us how much the head shop measured it at. This could be important to indicate if the studs ARE capable of pulling a minor flex back into a good seal. If not... Then anyone that is considering the studs to solve a gasket leak may be in your same situation.

Certainly, renting a cheap car (if you don't have a spare) will be cheaper and suck less than having to pull the head off AGAIN if a new gasket doesn't solve the problem and you didn't get it inspected.

Sorry you are having these problems. I really hoped that the studs would seal up your engine.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:24 pm

dthdcrd wrote:

... I regret not having done the entire job while do the studs considering I was so far into it....

Did you do ARP studs with your original (leaking) head gasket? Or did you replace your head gasket too?

jtz54 · **Joined:** Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:37 pm **Posts:** 73

I'd like to know how effective the ARP studs are. My gasket was leaking until I put Blue Devil in the coolant. Stopped the leak but I know it's only temporary. Was going to get the gasket replaced but debating about the ARPs. At $350 a set they aren't cheap considering ID parts had the whole gasket set including new head bolts for $240.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

dthdcrd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 30, 2014 9:03 pm

Gonna try to answer all questions and give my thoughts in one swoop.

flman There was one bolt loose, another just slightly. Thanks for your input when I pm'd you

Geordi: Agreed I will be pulling the head at my buddy's shop which is also a machine/engine shop they are going to check for warpage before I put it back on (fingers crossed)

65covair I did the studs with he original gasket. That's my regret. I was there. All that was needed was to remove turbo, exhaust manifold and head... I think I was a little overly optimistic and against my better judgement did not replace the head gasket while I was that far into it..

In hind sight I would have done the head gasket and ARP studs. Like I said you are there may as we'll go all the way and make it as best you can before you button it up. If the head is not warped then I can put a new gasket on it, ARP studs and move forward knowing I have a solid piece.

I really do believe it is the gasket. It has been such a slow progression starting with taking the coolant cap off and getting the bubbles to a year later getting blow by into the overflow only when I tow up a long hill holding boost, to the studs, which kept it at bay for a little, now all the signs.... Heat fluctuation, blow by, pressurized coolant etc... I think the gasket has just had it and the studs were a temporary fix. That is my hope as I really don't feel like coughing up the $$ for a head.. We will see, but it does make sense. I'll take some pics and post up results. Not that y'all haven't seen a VM 2.8 with a head off lol.

dthdcrd · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2014 4:56 pm

All done and back on the road. A few things..

The ARP studs I did in June were all the same in regards of breaking them loose. The head had no cracks and was straight as could be, no warping at all. The head gasket was leaking in cylinders 3 and 4. They were clean as can be. The coolant tends to do this. 1 and 2 had normal carbon build up 3 and 4 looked power washed...

After doing the ARP studs and then going back to do the gasket seven months later it is apparent that the head gasket failed due to the stock head bolts not clamping evenly. I always had pressure under the cap since the day I purchased the jeep with 30K on it. No matter how long it sat. This only got worse and started pushing into the overflow when I would be under heavy load/towing. I replaced the stock head bolts with the ARP studs. The stock units were not all the same when I removed them a few were much easier to remove. The ARP studs bought me some time but did not cure the problem completely. Over the next seven months it got worse until I pulled the head this weekend and changed the gasket. I have driven the liberty for a full day now. Drove it hard too for a bit and just around town. All seems to be good. Good heat, proper operating temperature, no coolant in the overflow and after my extensive test drive and a little time cooling off NO PRESSURE under the cap!!!! What a relief that was.

I'm ready to get back to enjoying my vehicle.

Thanks for all the info from various members

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:36 pm

Great to hear. Good reason for anyone suspecting a HG leak to go ahead a replace it while they have it apart.

jtz54 · **Joined:** Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:37 pm **Posts:** 73

Going to do the HG soon because the Blue Devil additive is the only thing keeping coolant in it. My question is with 135K miles is it worth putting the ARP studs in with the HG or is this engine going to require a complete rebuild soon and I should wait to install the studs then?

dthdcrd · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:19 am

IMO you're in there doing the gasket.. Put the studs in and go. I'm sure you will get better clamping force with the studs. Torquing the head to 125 lbs outside bolts 130lbs inside is more torque than If you use the torque degree of the FSM..

Not sure why you think you would need a rebuild soon?? Without the head gasket issue, and erg disabled, there is no reason why you shouldn't be able to go 300k before worrying about anything internal. This topic of longevity has come up several times on the forum. It always amazes me people asking how long the CRD should go or if anyone has over 200k.... Sign of the times I guess.. But I will say this. The last two cars I owned before this are both on the road, both have over 300k on them. I sold them while they were in the high 200k range. One was a six cylinder one was a five cylinder turbo. The turbo is still original. Nothing major has been done to either engine internally. Why should our jeeps be any different, especially with the more evident issue coming to life here and being addressed...

jtz54 · **Joined:** Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:37 pm **Posts:** 73

Thanks dthdcrd - This board has been invaluable in keeping my CRD up to snuff. Just got done putting in a Racor 245 after the "new and improved" filter head I installed last year started smoking the wiring harness. With the HG issues, rocker arm wear and other issues, it makes me a little hesitant to spend extra money if the engine isn't going to last. So far I love it and with the GDE tune it's been even better until the HG issue popped up.

dthdcrd · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:56 pm

I gave a brand new set of factory head bolts up for grabs if anyone wants them. Let me know.

dthdcrd · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:56 pm

Sorry "have"

DocB · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 12:57 am

Question:

How much pressure should there be under the overflow coolant cap from dead cold?

Especially on a very cold (20*F) engine?

dthdcrd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 1:13 am

My understanding is none. I have heard different theories on this, but since I've replaced the head gasket I have no pressure. I can check it once it is just cool enough to touch or after sitting overnight and I have no pressure. Before the new head gasket it could sit all weekend and I would crack the cap and get bubbles and all kinda air pushing out.

ARP head studs

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