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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:46 am
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Location: North Port, Fl.
Received my kit yesterday, got most of the box work done but need to get some thermal paste
to finish. Am mounting a heat sink on the same side as the resistor is on the outside of the box.
Probably will mount it under dash as some have done.
My question is: What guage wire do I need to get to finish the hookup?
I have seen it here but cannot find that post.
Thanks

_________________
06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 5:03 pm 
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I used 22 gauge stuff.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Mopar engine, transmission, transfer case skids
245/70/16 Michelin Latitude X-Ice (winter)
235/75/16 Firestone Destination ATs (summer)
Thule roof rack, cargo box
V6 airbox mod
Flowmaster 50 2.5 inch muffler
Edge EZ module (set for fuel economy)
SEGR
TDIWagonGuy CCV filter
B99 (summer), B20 (winter)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 6:31 pm 
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crd liberty wrote:
Received my kit yesterday, got most of the box work done but need to get some thermal paste
to finish. Am mounting a heat sink on the same side as the resistor is on the outside of the box.
Probably will mount it under dash as some have done.
My question is: What guage wire do I need to get to finish the hookup?
I have seen it here but cannot find that post.
Thanks
22AWG will work, but I built the internals with 18AWG. I recommend sticking with 18AWG, as the 3A fuse will not adequately protect 22AWG in case of a fault.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---


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 Post subject: Caught up with kit soldering
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 6:51 pm 
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Ok, except for the 3 kits LocoCRD sent last week, I have built and shipped everything (that's 42 kits, BTW 8) )

If you have not heard from me, now would be the time to speak up. Thanks again everyone for your patience, it's been a pleasure working with you. And if anyone has issues with the build or troubleshooting, or if things are falling apart, don't hesistate to let me know. I'll do my best to make it right.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:30 pm
Posts: 85
Saw on another thread where others had soot caked up on their boost pressure/intake air temp sensor. With 42,000 on mine, I pulled it out today, and it too was completely covered in soot. Cleaned it with carb cleaner, and it works well now. Can't wait to get the SEGR mod done to eliminate the source of the problem.

Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 8:32 pm 
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Location: Northern Indiana
I just got back from my test drive after completing the install. Wooo Hooo!! I took my time and had it well in my mind before starting. I took about 3 hr 35 mm-in. to do. Missed the Colts game but have it DVR'd. The biggest problem I had was using the Radio Shack phone wire connectors. I used wire from the SEGR that was to big for that clip. Spent a lot of time shaving the insulation down so it would go in. I think I would try something else if you use anything bigger than 22. I took the fuel filter & bracket loose and that helped a lot getting the wire fished up from the gromet above the gas pedel and getting the cover off the firewall channel. I used a continuity meter and did not disassemble C1 & C2. I removed them, stuck one of the wife's sewing needles in the proper hole, and located the proper colored wires. I tested it by putting another needle in the end of a small set of vise-grips and shoving it in the suspected wire and then checking the continuity meter. The worse wire to locate was the brown with the gray stripe. I've got 53 year old eyes and byfocals and that one was a stretch for me. All were found on the first probe and the splice was made at the probe site. I had absolutely no trouble plugging C1 & C2 after splicing. I used white model paint on the by-pass plug and recept plug marking Pin 1 and Pin 7. That way it would be easier to get it plugged in right should I need it. I left a loop of wire in 3/8" flex conduit so the end can be brought from under the dash comfortably to install the bypass plug. I wire tied the bypass plug to the conduit at the female plug so it won't be lost or mistakenly thrown out. It is a nice feeling knowing that the EGR problem has been permenantly solved and the SEL is back to work alerting me to some other problem. I just hope I notice it now that I have grown used to seeing it on. Thanks to all you guys especially Tim, Loco, and UFO. I could not be happier. On to the next problem, turbo hoses. Mine is dripping oil all over the place. SirSam is going to help me with that. Good luck to all who have not installed yet (you can do it)and congratulations to all that have.

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White Sport '05 Libby CRD - born on date: 6/3/2005, FIA Grill Blanket, Fumoto drain plug, 2.8 CRD Turbo Diesel hood decals, Jeep windshield bug & stone deflector, Molded tire cover with custom JEEP & Liberty CRD decals, Cummins Lift Pump, Pro-vent, GDE Eco no limit tune, Odyssey 34R drycell battery, Meziere in-line stat, ETecno1 glow plugs


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 11:58 pm 
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Location: Phoenix, Arizona
I just love it when a plan comes together... :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 5:30 am 
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Location: North Port, Fl.
Where are you picking up your 12 volt power? :lol:

_________________
06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:51 am 
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Location: Northern Indiana
Hay! I can answer this one! 12v power is located C2 pin 1. It is a brown wire with a pink/violet stripe. I noticed it was a larger wire than most the others in the wire bundle. Your pin #3 attaches to it (red wire for me) it is a side splice (as opposed to cutting the wire completely and splicing to both ends) Hope that helps

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White Sport '05 Libby CRD - born on date: 6/3/2005, FIA Grill Blanket, Fumoto drain plug, 2.8 CRD Turbo Diesel hood decals, Jeep windshield bug & stone deflector, Molded tire cover with custom JEEP & Liberty CRD decals, Cummins Lift Pump, Pro-vent, GDE Eco no limit tune, Odyssey 34R drycell battery, Meziere in-line stat, ETecno1 glow plugs


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:24 pm 
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Correct - that fused power is supplied by the Engine Auto Shutdown Relay, energized at key-on - C2-1,3,6 are separately fused power sources from that relay.

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:46 am
Posts: 375
Location: North Port, Fl.
Still trying to get this old mind straight.
When I cut C1-90 EGR wire, I hook up Segr 4 to the ECM side or the right side. Wire to the left
just hangs out there with nothing on it?
Also, for the cut wire should I buy the parts from Digi-key. Sockets A31998-ND or are there other
Parts available locally that will work??
Thanks all for bearing with me on this. I just want to get it all right the first time.

_________________
06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:51 am 
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Yes - SEGR pin 4 splices to the DkBlu\Vio harness wire going to the ECM connector

SEGR pin 5 splices to the DkBlu\Vio harness wire going to the EGR solenoid - allows you to restore system function with the test connector - if you're not building that connector, just tape the end of that wire

Find a local electronics parts emporium - they may have the parts for the test connector - other than that, Digi-Key is a good source, as is Newark and Allied - Radio Shack may even have them as special order

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:46 am
Posts: 375
Location: North Port, Fl.
If I build that test connector. I would order the A1352ND and than the left wire would hook to that part. I still am puzzled as
to where that connector would tie to???
I am sorry but not the sharpest knife in the drawer here when it comes to all this.
Thanks again

_________________
06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:31 am 
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Location: North Port, Fl.
I ordered the 10 pack of A31998-ND and also A1352-ND from Digi-key. The connector pins are backorder so that will give me more time to get my head in order for this wiring.

_________________
06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:25 am 
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No prob, dude - don't let my posting style put you off - I'm dyslexic, and this format allows me to see that what is on the printed page reflects what is in my mind to post - so, ask away...........

The connector in the SEGR box omits pin #5, as it has no functional use inside the box

However, the mating connector on the SEGR cable should have pin #5 connected to that wire that goes to the EGR solenoid - that allows the jumper between pin #4 and pin #5 in the test connector to reconnect the EGR solenoid to the ECM, if the SEGR must be disconnected for normal emissions control, such as whenever you go back on-road for state inspection

ECM C1-90--<splice>------cable------pin4><pin4--test connector--pin5><pin5------cable------<splice>--EGR solenoid

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 12:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:46 am
Posts: 375
Location: North Port, Fl.
To jumper5 Back to SEGR 4
------------ Cut ---------------C1-90 ECM side


If this is the case, where would the other half of jumper 5 be plugged into for the test function.
Must be something I am not seeing?

_________________
06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 12:31 pm 
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Location: Texas
ECM C1-90-------------------------------------------DkBlu\Vio----------------------------------------------------------EGR solenoid

When you cut the DkBlu\Vio wire from C1-90, you're disconnecting the ECM from the EGR solenoid

ECM C1-90--------------------------------------cut\snip\slash\rip...................................................................EGR solenoid

When you splice the SEGR cable pin4 Vio wire to C1-90, ECM can control the simulated EGR circuit in the SEGR box, and the disconnected real EGR is dead

ECM C1-90---<splice>----------------------pin4><pin4 SEGR (N\C)------------------------------------------------EGR solenoid

When you splice the SEGR cable pin5 Vio\Blk wire to the EGR DkBlu\vio wire, it has no connection to the SEGR box, as pin5 is empty, non-functional in the SEGR box

ECM C1-90---<splice>-----------------------pin4><pin4 SEGR (N\C)<pin5---<splice>-----------------------------EGR solenoid

But, when you disconnect the cable from the SEGR box, then connect the test plug to the SEGR cable, the jumper between pin4 and pin5 in the test plug reconnects C1-90 on pin 4 to EGR on pin 5, restoring ECM emissions control

ECM C1-90--<splice>------cable------pin4><pin4--test connector--pin5><pin5------cable------<splice>--EGR solenoid

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


Last edited by gmctd on Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:46 am
Posts: 375
Location: North Port, Fl.
Think I am starting to see it.
This plug I am buying, A1352ND is it a 2 piece plug or does it go in the back of the SEGR box.
Your first 2 lines said cut but below that was splice. If I use the test plug I splice and do not cut C1-90?
Without the test plug, I cut and leave downwind side of wire C1-90 just taped off?

_________________
06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:28 pm 
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The extra connector you purchased will be wired as a jumper plug - you will disconnect the SEGR from the SEGR cable, then plug the new connector into the SEGR cable to reconnect all the wires you cut - the test plug eliminates the modification, restoring full emissions control.

The 1rst line is the oem EGR control line, untouched, unmolested - pristine

2nd line represents the first step in the modification, amputating the EGR solenoid

3rd line represents splicing the SEGR cable Violet wire from pin4 to the DkBlu\Vio wire from C1-90, EGR still disconnected, unspliced

4rth line represents splicing the SEGR cable Vio\Blk wire from pin5 to the DkBlu\Vio wire from the EGR, with no connection at the SEGR box

5th line represents the SEGR box disconnected and removed from the cable, with the test plug installed in the cable, reconnecting the ECM to the EGR solenoid

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


Top
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:46 am
Posts: 375
Location: North Port, Fl.
gmctd
Thank so very much. I am going to print these pages out, wait for the plug to get here
and it should make more sense after I study all you have told me. :)

_________________
06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.


Top
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