CRD quit, now just cranks but will not fire

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Feb 14, 2016 12:32 pm

That sure beats messing with the obnoxious turbo under the hood. Now, if you could install the drain line, and thread the needle/the grommet on the block end, you'd really save a hassle. You could probably do it if you had the new flex line that ID Parts sells.

That turbo drain line is the main reason that I hate pulling the heads on these things. Easy to damage the new gasket and get an oil leak :banghead:

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

Mountainman wrote:

That sure beats messing with the obnoxious turbo under the hood. Now, if you could install the drain line, and thread the needle/the grommet on the block end, you'd really save a hassle. You could probably do it if you had the new flex line that ID Parts sells.

That turbo drain line is the main reason that I hate pulling the heads on these things. Easy to damage the new gasket and get an oil leak :banghead:

Agree, I did put the oil drain line on the turbo. So much easier when you have full access and can actually see what you're doing. The line still has a fair amount of flex so I am hoping getting it lined up and installed into the (new) rubber grommet in the block won't be too much of a struggle.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Feb 14, 2016 4:16 pm

Cool, do you have the new flex line? I had one in hand the other day, and it wasn't as flexible as I expected, but surely an improvement anyhow.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2016 1:53 am

That drain line is something that I'd like to redesign too - I was thinking an actual flex mesh line for the entire length except for the fitting on the end, who cares if it is completely flexible as long as it sticks into the block where it should! All it is, is a drain line anyway, no pressure and not even super hot. Should be easy to have a better option made up by a hose and hydraulic shop.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2016 12:45 pm

Good call Jim. Maybe Sasquatch could whip one up if it's worth the cost to develop it.

Does anyone know if the current flex ones can be installed on the turbo first, and then threaded into the grommet? I should have tried it with the one I ran across, but I didn't think of it, and maaaaan did that drain line work me over...

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

Mountainman wrote:

Good call Jim. Maybe Sasquatch could whip one up if it's worth the cost to develop it.

Does anyone know if the current flex ones can be installed on the turbo first, and then threaded into the grommet? I should have tried it with the one I ran across, but I didn't think of it, and maaaaan did that drain line work me over...

I dont know yet, but will soon. Drain lime is already on the turbo. Plan is to thread it into the block grommet when i drop the whole head/exh manifold /turbo asm on the block this wkend.

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Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2016 2:01 pm

dhenderz wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

Good call Jim. Maybe Sasquatch could whip one up if it's worth the cost to develop it.

Does anyone know if the current flex ones can be installed on the turbo first, and then threaded into the grommet? I should have tried it with the one I ran across, but I didn't think of it, and maaaaan did that drain line work me over...

I dont know yet, but will soon. Drain lime is already on the turbo. Plan is to thread it into the block grommet when i drop the whole head/exh manifold /turbo asm on the block this wkend.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Might be doable with the overhead lift, but probably still going to want a lift operator. I set a head on with just the manifold attached, and next time I'll probably remove the hood, and use my overhead chain hoist, as it wasn't smart. Actually, thanks to your idea, I think I'll do it just like you are next time, thanks :rockon:

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

Using the overhead hoist made putting the head/exh manifold/turbo on pretty easy and quick. I dropped it down to within 1/2inch of the block and then popped the turbo oil drain into the grommet. Easy as pie.

I have to say that it seems to run a little smoother and quieter now. I do wonder if maybe the timing belt may have slipped a tooth because the tensioner never got adjusted properly. Then perhaps it slipped one more and bang - broken valve. Guess I'll never know.

So all in new stuff was -

1) New CP3 pump
2) New M-PROP
3) New fuel filter/heater head
4) New lift pump
5) New #3 injector
6) Cleaned/inspected #1, #2 & #4 injector
7) Used #3 piston
8.) New rear oil main seal
9) Used/resurfaced/rebuilt head with new valve stem seals
10) 3 new rockers
11) New turbo intake tube (was cracked)
12) Repaired fuel return block (after breaking the new one I bought)
13) New crankshaft position sensor
14) New lower rad hose
15) New timing belt tensioner
16) New timing belt idler pulleys
17) New Hayden fan clutch
18) ARP studs
19) Sasquatch stage 1 & 2 EGR delete kit
20) Cam gear holding tool & timing change tool set

All in - $3,640 and many, many, many hours of work. Here's hoping it cruises for many more miles trouble free. :JEEPIN:

Hmmm, maybe I should sell it now while it runs.... :ROTFL:

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t0rquey · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 1:55 am

Congratulations on a job well done! I'm glad it went back together relatively smoothly for you.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 3:44 am

Remarkable fortitude in the face of extreme adversity and aggravation. You, Sir, are The Man!
After your ordeal, hopefully it helped relieve some of the P&L pain to see that smile on your kid's face : )
And, of course, the rest of you attendant Sirs are The Men!
Amazing thread: for the past two hours the 14-page saga (and excellent links) replaced a DVD for the evening's entertainment.
Also excellent prep as I'm about to tackle the comparatively-cake install of stage I/II, etecno 7's, and new seals/washers @ #3/4 injectors (air leak). Now I'm seriously considering doing the ARB stud/rocker set while I'm there.
As a former pro Subaru wrench, the discussion about head gaskets reminds me of >60 '96-'04 2.5L. HG R&Rs. To that point, I'm tempted to install a new HG in my '05 CRD (145k) as a preventative measure (no real need to deck the head, etc.). Hmmm...
Worth doing? Or, if it ain't broke, .........

Or maybe better as a new thread:
"Preventative head gasket replacement worth performing while installing ARB studs?"

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 1:42 pm

If it isn't leaking now (losing coolant - alarm) then put the studs in and drive on.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 3:08 pm

geordi wrote:

If it isn't leaking now (losing coolant - alarm) then put the studs in and drive on.

X2. This Jeep will give you plenty more opportunities to get greasy :lol:

flman · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 3:11 pm

Wow quite a thread, as well as a great dad and mechanic that gave the Libby life again.

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 291

dhenderz wrote:

Well the Jeep is back together and my daughter is back on the road! Everything went back together with no issues. After about 20-30 seconds of cranking and cracking the #3 injector line (easier to get to than #4) and it fired right up.

Dude....you are an inspiration!! What a ride. I have been following the thread with great interest. You clearly are talented and have much persistence!! I hope your Libby serves you well as it should from here on out. Stay on the board to help the rest of us now that you have much experience.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Apr 21, 2016 11:50 am

dhenderz wrote:

Using the overhead hoist made putting the head/exh manifold/turbo on pretty easy and quick. I dropped it down to within 1/2inch of the block and then popped the turbo oil drain into the grommet. Easy as pie.

I have to say that it seems to run a little smoother and quieter now. I do wonder if maybe the timing belt may have slipped a tooth because the tensioner never got adjusted properly. Then perhaps it slipped one more and bang - broken valve. Guess I'll never know.

So all in new stuff was -

1) New CP3 pump
2) New M-PROP
3) New fuel filter/heater head
4) New lift pump
5) New #3 injector
6) Cleaned/inspected #1, #2 & #4 injector
7) Used #3 piston
8.) New rear oil main seal
9) Used/resurfaced/rebuilt head with new valve stem seals
10) 3 new rockers
11) New turbo intake tube (was cracked)
12) Repaired fuel return block (after breaking the new one I bought)
13) New crankshaft position sensor
14) New lower rad hose
15) New timing belt tensioner
16) New timing belt idler pulleys
17) New Hayden fan clutch
18) ARP studs
19) Sasquatch stage 1 & 2 EGR delete kit
20) Cam gear holding tool & timing change tool set

All in - $3,640 and many, many, many hours of work. Here's hoping it cruises for many more miles trouble free. :JEEPIN:

Hmmm, maybe I should sell it now while it runs.... :ROTFL:

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Major labor saver, I was able to rob a flex line from another CRD and this worked great. I think even the rigid lines would work ok. I was surprised I didn't even need to pull the lower turbo support. Instead of fighting the turbo for hours, it took about 1 minute to tighten the feed line top and bottom, and install the support bolt, and the turbo was set.
-thanks again for the confidence to attempt this method! :rockon:

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sat Apr 23, 2016 9:30 am

geordi wrote:

That drain line is something that I'd like to redesign too - I was thinking an actual flex mesh line for the entire length except for the fitting on the end, who cares if it is completely flexible as long as it sticks into the block where it should! All it is, is a drain line anyway, no pressure and not even super hot. Should be easy to have a better option made up by a hose and hydraulic shop.

I use braided stainless for turbo return lines with AN10 fittings on my 6.5 diesels. Is there a way to do the same on the Jeeps? What would you need for size and ends?

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 291

dhenderz wrote:

This CRD is now up for sale. Check the sale section for link to CL ad.

What!!! After all that work!!! Wow

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sun May 01, 2016 7:05 pm

Mr. Dhenderz;
I PMd you but not sure if it got through.
I may be interested in your CRD.
Please email me at altbizsite at ya hoo.
Have cash, will travel.
Thanks!

CRD quit, now just cranks but will not fire

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