Not recently. I talked with the gent last year when the subject first came up. Ranger1 has talked with him more recently, in the last couple of weeks, prior to ordering his own. From what I remember, he was of the opinion that it should work just fine with the CRD.

I do remember when I talked with him, I mentioned the FASS system that has been advertised. His opinion was that it was overkill and overpriced. His feelings were as long as you had some method of adequate filtration and water separation, and a lift pump capable of maintaining adequate flow and some level of positive pressure along with this, at the suction of the main pump, you would eliminate any problems with entrained air or vacuum system air leaks.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

The FASS is darned expensive, and while the pump, primary filter, and secondary filter together is probably great in a full size PU, I don't know where we would put one in the CRD.

Seems like I have seen the OEM type quick coupling stuff sold as a short section of steel tube and a short section of the flex line, I take it that is how you plan to tie it in? Sounds like a good way to go since it would be reversible in the event of unforseen issues.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

I really like where this is headed. Thanks guys for taking the next step! Does anybody know if the heating I'm seeing with the solenoid pump is normal? I don't remember it getting warm in the original application, but I really couldn't say for sure.

_________________
Anonymously tinkering with my CRD while protecting my warranty.
Ironically, if the warranty was worth having, I wouldn't have to tinker with it.

Exactly. Autozone, Advance, and NAPA in this area sell fuel line "repair kits" - basically the quick connect with about a foot of nylon hose attached and any applicable fittings, and also the steel sections with a male fitting on each end. If you do a little looking on the partsamerica website (ie, Advance Auto), you can buy the individual connectors, retaining clips, nylon hose, etc.

Supply line is 3/8", return line looks to be 5/16". From the looks of the connectors, no tools required to disconnect them. They have a white nylon tab on one side, which I take to be a release button, when pushed in releases the retaining clip and allows you to separate the fitting.

For where I'm looking at mounting the pump, I'm looking at using a female connector 3/8" Steel to 3/8" Nylon 90 Deg Elbow to hook into the line from the tank. To connect to the supply line to the pump, one of the 12" steel double male sections, using a tubing bender to put a 90 degree bend in it, and trimming it to an appropriate length if necessary. The 3/8" steel tube is a very snug fit inside a piece of 3/8" fuel hose, to the point I had difficulty getting them apart after doing a test fit.

Fortunately I've already had a little experience at this. I had to fab a similar setup on the '04 Dakota I had, adding in a 2 micron fuel filter and hooking in at the quick connect on the fuel rail in the engine compartment. That was another DC vehicle where the fuel filter setup left a lot to be desired.

May be getting some of the 5/16" connectors as well. From what we've been finding on the tdiclub and other forums, I'm beginning to think that a fuel cooler installed in the return line may not be a bad idea.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

I have a Kennedy lift pump that I had on my GM6.5TD. I took it off because it was a pain to prime at times and my son drives it so I didn't need the problems. Never put it on the Dmax because I have and after market fuel tank and no place to put it. If someone wants it for $125 its yours.

Greg

_________________
Greg
www.lubricationspecialist.com
888-306-4255

Think I can answer that question after a trip yesterday and doing some readings with a infared thermometer.

The fuel itself is getting heated up from return flow to the tank - both from going thru the engine and the radiated heat being soaked up by the fuel filter assembly and other components, and then transferred to the fuel.

Mine had been parked for 3 days, full tank of fuel, 85 F ambient. Did a 50 mile round trip, 55 to 60 mph secondary roads with some stop and go at 35 mph, an hour shutdown in between legs.

That was enough to raise the contact temp of the fuel tank with 20 gallons of diesel from 85 F ambient to 105 F. The initial 25 mile leg to my destination raised it from 85 F to 95 F.

After 45 minutes parked at my destination, the metal head of the fuel filter assembly had heat soaked up to over 130 F, the fuel filter itself to 125 F. Starting it up, within 2 minutes these temps had dropped by 10 to 15 F as relatively cold fuel from the tank got circulated thru them, but still the lowest temp I could read on anything in the engine bay (metal fuel lines on the banjo fittings) was 105 F.

Getting home, I crawled underneath and measured temps on the metal portion of the supply and return lines just in front of the rear tire. Supply line was 103 F, return line was 115 F.

This was with the fuel heater disconnected.

Ranger1 found some info on line from a diesel engine instructor's guide saying that even after several hours of continuous driving that fuel tank temp should not exceed 140 F.

Apparently a good reason for that. Doing a little digging myself, it seems that the flash (vapor) temp of #2 diesel is supposed to be 140 F or higher. The flash or vapor temp is where the fuel starts giving off combustible vapor.

It gets better. From a Coast Guard Naval Engineering Manual, it seems that for certain blends of diesel, such as winter blend #1/#2 diesel, the allowable flash point is as low as 125 F for non-marine commercial diesel fuel. They specifically prohibit any of their cutters from using such fuel except in Alaskan waters in wintertime.

And from what I remember, the vapor temp of a fluid is lowered when you put it under a vacuum.

Looks like a little heat shielding and a fuel cooler may be in order. Especially since I just got the Kennedy lift pump and the label on it lists max fluid temp as 140 F. It's definitely NOT getting mounted in the engine compt.

FYI, here's the specs on the Kennedy pump - 8 to 24 volts, 3 to 33 watts, 1.9 amps, max fluid temp 140 F, max pressure 50 psi.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Exactly correct. Looks like this hot fuel may be a big problem, probably with a simple fix as well.

_________________
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

Yep, looks like between the lift pump and a fuel cooler/heat shielding, we may just be addressing two sides of the same problem.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

While wiring a trailer brake controler this weekend I found a "fuel primer pump" relay, position 38, in the power distribution box by the battery My CRD also dose not have the towing option but there's a fuse there and it's related wire is inside the jeep The distribution box is diesel specific because it has fuel heater and viscus heater relays also Did theey plan for this then cuts costs

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Very interesting, Could we already be wired for a lift pump with a rollover fuel cutoff?

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

The primer pump may be a left over from the 2.5 diesel and the RACOR filter.

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

To make the lift pump installation a great working up grade:
1) I am working on a check valve/banjo bolt assembly (Bubble Killer) that will screw into the filter head air bleed port so that a small quantity of fuel will be returned to the tank with any bubbles. The reason for the check valve is to prevent the return line from sucking in air in the event of lift pump failure, since I like to plan when I exercise.
2) Carter makes a solenoid pump suited for our application for $43.99 with a life time warranty (Sorry I have replaced too many Facet pumps). http://www.partsamerica.com/productdeta ... Code=3339K
3) Joe Ramos has a great finding with the #38 port in the distribution box. We should check and make sure that this port does not draw power through the ECM to power the port. If it does, a relay and self resetting circuit breaker in our lift pump circuit will solve the problem.

Regards,

Steve Sharp

Page 8W-10-19 shows the power coming off the battery through fuse 24. However it then goes to page W-30-21 and has a "module, fuel pump" shown but the wires are marked "fuel level sensor". I wonder if there's already a pump just setting in the tank

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Joe: Bean counters would not allow the money to be spent on a non functional pump, but would allow extra wires to be run to have parts commonality by using thye same harness. I plan to hook up a tool I made to test circuits in operation made out of LEDs and 1K resistors. Page 8W-10-2 shows the relay for the fuel heater and the fuel pump relay in the same socket, this may be the killer on using this relay socket. The auto shut down relay may function the way a fuel pump relay should, I will need to check this out.

Regards,

Steve Sharp

On using the Carter style pump - might want to stick a "gravel screen" prefilter (150 micron or so) in front of it. They've reportedly had problems with this style of pump failing due to dirt/debris jamming the check valve or rotor.

After just having my hand primer pump quit working due to the same problem, I'm inclined to take them seriously on this one.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Just got an e-mail from Ranger1 describing the results from his road test with the kennedy lift pump.

He said the vehicle ran quite well, perhaps some more grunt when applying WOT, but other than that no problems and no noticeable difference in performance. He monitored rail fuel pressure and it was unaffected by the lift pump. He noted that now the hand primer pump stayed firm.

He also noted that with 3 psi on the stock fuel filter assembly, it was quite obvious that the fuel heater and the gasket above it were leaking. He's now going to wait until he gets the Racor unit installed before doing a permanent install on the lift pump.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

" On using the Carter style pump - might want to stick a "gravel screen" prefilter (150 micron or so) in front of it. They've reportedly had problems with this style of pump failing due to dirt/debris jamming the check valve or rotor.

After just having my hand primer pump quit working due to the same problem, I'm inclined to take them seriously on this one.[/quote]"


I have removed the strainers from the tank inlets on many of the older VWs and other trucks I have converted from Gasoline to Diesel due to WAX build up. The only thing that has changed since then is ULSD which did not exist at the time. ULSD may or may not be less prone to wax and gelling. Since North Eastern Illinois gets cold in the winter, I would be more tempted to put a trap with a clean out (mini inline tank) in the line to catch any debris as opposed to another filter or strainer that will gel or wax up. A plumbing 1" NPT "T" with two barbed fittings and a drain plug would work just fine.

Regards,

Steve Sharp

What is he using to monitor rail pressure?

_________________
Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

most scanners can display rail pressure as that is one of the main variables used by the ECU to make the engine function.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Haven't posted in a while, so I thought I'd offer an update. I am still very happy with my lift pump. I revamped the wiring to take advantage of the factory relay, and I added a pressure gauge by drilling and tapping the banjo bolt in the outlet port of the factory filter head. The gauge is on a short length of hose. With the gauge held down by a wiper arm, I went for a drive. With the pump on and engine off, I have 7.5 PSI. Started and idling, I have 5 PSI. Cruising I have 3 or 4 PSI. WOT, I have 0 PSI. The CRD really moves some fuel at WOT. A compound gauge which would show vacuum also would be slick, but I'd rather put that money toward a Kennedy pump if it will maintain positive pressure at WOT. My pump is mounted in the engine compartment and is pushing through a WIX primary filter and the OEM as a secondary. The filters are fairly fresh, and while it is not impossible, I don't suspect that they are restricted. I'd be curious to get some comparative pressure numbers from others running lift pumps. By the way, I found out the hard way that you have to either leave an air pocket or put some kind of flow restriction ahead of the gauge or the needle really vibrates when the engine is running.

_________________
Anonymously tinkering with my CRD while protecting my warranty.
Ironically, if the warranty was worth having, I wouldn't have to tinker with it.