Suncoast T/C, Pump, Cooler and Shift Kit Install

fastRob · **Posted:** Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:31 pm

We started pulling it apart this afternoon.
Wish us luck.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:42 pm

fastRob wrote:

Bill.Barg wrote:

Adding to the potential "while I have my wallet open for the Suncoast Project" to do list;

what about new Universal Joints while the tranny is out .... like greaseable heavy duty ones? Any merit to this upgrade?

If so, which ones?

Tjkj2002 has on his signature that 760 u joints are stronger, cheaper than cv shafts.
When the shafts are off why not check them out? Replace with good greasable u joints if worn
I replaced my ball joints with Moog even though under recall because the replacement stock stuff was junk.

That phrase in my sig is due to the fact that I broke a front CV joint on a trail a few weeks ago and I'm replacing the D30A and CV shafts with a mid-'70's Ford HP44 that will be using Spicer 760 u-joints for a known weak link,but the 760 u-joints are considerably stronger then the CV's that came on my KJ.

OH and the rear driveshaft uses 1310 u-joints,get the Spicer ones that are greaseable.

fastRob · **Posted:** Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:01 pm

No, this is not a Govinmint job.
The front fan was pulled for the tranny cooler. What is going to happen? Will see.
The fins were clogged with bugs all the way through to the radiator.
Looks like the radiator will get replaced with a larger unit if coolant temps go high, space available for a better unit.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:53 pm

What percentage clogged? The KJ grille is directly open to the front, so the heat exchangers would clog easier than, say, a Chevy or Ford - that clog-up would definitely affect cooling under load, or just with the ac burning - the GM Diesel trucks require cleaning at least every other year to restore factory cooling capacity. Looking at the dimensional configuration, it's possible to add two more rows to the rad, but don't know who would do that, inexpensively.

fastRob · **Posted:** Sun Aug 03, 2008 1:48 pm

gmctd wrote:

What percentage clogged? The KJ grille is directly open to the front, so the heat exchangers would clog easier than, say, a Chevy or Ford - that clog-up would definitely affect cooling under load, or just with the ac burning - the GM Diesel trucks require cleaning at least every other year to restore factory cooling capacity. Looking at the dimensional configuration, it's possible to add two more rows to the rad, but don't know who would do that, inexpensively.

Hard telling, not knowing but a good solid coating of bugs. I viewed the engine coolant radiator from underneath and it looked like a circular mound of bug parts in the center. How they got through the intercooler and a/c thingy, no telling because that was clogged up too. Must have been drawn up from underneath. Might pull it after the tranny is done. Maine has Bugs!!!
Going to put screening in front between grill and support structure.
Have been focusing on things other than transmission slowing this job down.
Everything tells me that that plastic radiator is substandard But I have had no overheating issues and I have not towed the rat Airstream with it either.
But then again that is what this is about, improving towing capacity, function.
Feeling in over my head, a little.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Aug 03, 2008 6:01 pm

All automotive radiators are aluminum wide-tube with thermoplastic end tanks - no problem there, even solves some problems with leakage, as a large pair of channel-lock pliers will reseal most leaks at the end tanks - the bug-chaff is a problem, where no air passes thru the fins, no cooling is afforded - mine looks fairly clogged also - will pull things back apart for some show'n'tell - that screen is prolly a very good idea, considering the straight shot thru the grille openings.

fastRob · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:24 pm

Looked at the installation instructions for the pump and Shift kit. Off to a transmission shop.
Surprisingly 3 shops declined to work on it.
I will be without it for a week or more.

fastRob · **Posted:** Fri Aug 15, 2008 12:56 pm

It was worth the $192 just for the installation tips.
Dave from Thibideaus Transmission, Lewiston, ME had me call Transco to ask about the pump springs.
He primed the pump and put the springs in the new pump from the Transco shift kit.
It seems the pump springs break and the shift kit springs are better. Funny, Suncoast told me not to bother. Glad I checked. Glad Dave told me to make sure from Transco.
Anyway we have to get going on this.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:21 pm

The shift kit springs are to replace worn springs in a high-mileage pump - not needed, of course, in a new pump - the hydraulic passages are horizontal in the 545RFE pump, where normally vertical - gravity has little effect on spools\springs in vertical passages - gravity causes the components to wear on the lower side in a horizontal bore - thus, you could have springs that are weaker because they have worn thinner on one side, so the shift kit supplys replacements - not needed with a new pump, but shouldn't cause any problems, long as the wrench installed them correctly......................

fastRob · **Posted:** Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:20 pm

That was my thought too, in the kit to replace worn springs.
I called Transco and the dude there said that the springs in the pump have a history of breakage.
Of course I was outraged and bristled at the thought that someone would suggest that my Chrysler/Daimler/Jeep has any low quality parts.
First I heard of it, hrumph!!!
The springs in the kit are "better" or so Transco customer service said.
The tranny was apart, the mechanic asked me to call, that is my story and I am sticking to it.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:25 pm

Doesn't hurt to replace them, long as the mech followed the instructions to match the colors of the new springs to the original colors in the stack

fastRob · **Posted:** Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:51 am

Well the torque converter, shift kit and pump are installed and it drives.
The new tranny radiator is installed but not hooked up because I have not decided on a transmission temp gauge.
When I do the gauge the thermal bypass will be connected as well to the new cooler.
I just ran out of energy, going to take a break.
My 16 year old Rasmus was a great help as was GMCTD and CATCRD, read their threads, thanks all!!
Hardest most aggravating thing to me was the manifold pipe and clamp. I guess it was not connected fully when I tightened up the clamp thereby damaging the clamp thereby preventing a firm connection. New clamp, bingo.

Results.....no change noticed....well maybe a little firmer shift, ...maybe....of course the resistor was not installed because according to the shift kit directions if there is going to be a perFormance TCU or ECU modification it should not be installed.

When does this rascal get some balls? Soon I hope. However fishing has suffered, bird season is coming up, then there is the Moose permit to fill in October, never mind deer season. Priorities boy, priorities, get them straight.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Aug 20, 2008 2:27 pm

Yep - that turbo downpipe fitment is a bear - can be done one-on-one but two would be better - don't expect neck-snapping shifts - you get lower stall-speed so the KJ moves out easier with less commotion under the hood, with more positive shifts and lockup is more noticeable, but takes EDGE or Inmotion to wake the engine up - if we could take control of pressures and shift quality from TCU, then shift firmness could be managed, at least to my liking - working on some stuff now, but the sky is falling regularly so the hood needs to be in the down position and I need to be in the under-cover position - yep, 'at's right: I work under a shade tree and proud of it...............

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Thu Aug 21, 2008 12:49 am

I guess the new clamp is required......

from the service manual page 11-7

NOTE: The front exhaust pipe and catalytic converter
to turbocharger clamp is not reusable.
Always use a new clamp when reinstalling the catalytic
converter.

fastRob · **Posted:** Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:13 pm

What a matter of choices!!! Every price, color and function imaginable.
Sunpro Style line CP8207 from Advance Auto Parts with coupling and taxes $19.
The T-coupler was easy, $9.
Now to install it before the cooler gets attached.
Trying to place it on the dash and plumb it to the oil lines, whoa Nelly.
First pull the dashboard out, disconnect all the wires, and drill 2 dozen holes through the firewall, yes, that's it!!!!!!!!
No!!!

gmctd · **Posted:** Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:16 pm

Use the pre-existing hole\grommet used for the throttle cable in the lesser KJ's - cross-slit it with an exacto knife, insert acouterments, and yer good to go........................

fastRob · **Posted:** Tue Sep 02, 2008 11:21 pm

gmctd wrote:

Use the pre-existing hole\grommet used for the throttle cable in the lesser KJ's - cross-slit it with an exacto knife, insert acouterments, and yer good to go........................

JD,

I really appreciate all your help in making this machine run like it was designed.
There are lots of others who help out quite a bit, but if one guy could be blamed for this diesel addiction...
.....Just a little more #2 please....It calms the nerves....oh,...and don't forget the additives....

fastRob · **Posted:** Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:27 pm

No idea of temperatures, no lights or elevated temp indications. Is ignorance bliss?
Have not had any overheating issues and with Bill.Barg's experience: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=35619
it is likely my actions are overkill, however, I plan on towing at or near capacity weight.
The good transmission shop (Thibideau's Transmission, Lewiston, ME) people called it insurance against overheating damage.
As soon as I get the gauge installed will have more info. Would like temp sensors at the inlet and outlet of the transmission cooler lines. Radio Shack?
But remember folks; transmission fluid operating at too low a temperature can damage a transmission as well so if you put on a big cooler and live in colder climates get a thermal bypass for $20-30, I had it installed and the big cooler hooked up.

It is worth noting that the Jeep is fun to drive and getting better, of course it should be or .................been there, done that.

Suncoast T/C, Pump, Cooler and Shift Kit Install

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