Went down to the performance shop today. Showed them the AT, going down at 9 AM tomorrow (Saturday) to get it installed, and if time permits and they have one in stock, an EGT gauge. Looking underneath the beast today, should be no problem getting 12" of straight pipe on each side, front edge of the body of the muffler (not the inlet connector) would end up 5" behind the flange, guys there said that would be no sweat.

One thing occurred to me. If the other gent managed to get a 2 mpg increase with basically an incorrect install (no straight pipe after the muffler), I wonder what it could get installed correctly?

Looks like we'll find out tomorrow.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Farmdiesel, got a good look today underneath while we were putting the AT muffler on. How in the heck did your friend manage to get a pyro installed in that exhaust manifold? Is he a bloody magician?

For that matter, how did you manage to get one installed after the turbo and before that 90 degree bend? Looks like you'd have to literally pull the front half of the exhaust system out of the vehicle to do it.

Let me guess, you DID have to pull it out........

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

I'm not sure how he did it. I looked at it for a long time, and decided it was impossible.

For mine, I used a 90 degree angle drill, a short drill bit, and one of the hose-clamp pyro mounts. Not my favorite method, but it beat pulling the entire exhaust.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD, Provent CCR, 2.5" lift

WOW 1000F in normall driving, and over 400F at idle! Are your serious - thats not good for long term turbo life.

On the other hand those that tell you of significant EGT drops at cruise or idle are full of it. You need the same amount of power irrespective of a diesel tuning module or not to travel at a given speed (same vehicle & load).

I'm seeing about 650F at cruise, and 300F at idle within 20 seconds. Its only over 900F when i'm WOT for more than 20 secs.

We have had the CRD Jeep in Oz for a few years now, and been successfull with tuning them for long term reliability and power. Usually we fit a decent exhaust system from the turbo to the tail pipe. This assists with turbo spool up and managing EGT's

I suspect that TST are pushing their unit to the limit in their trial to get those types of temp figures, and they are telling the truth (not good for marketting, but the truth just the same). The question is what will the EGT's run to under sustained WOT at full load, and what power will be delivered from their kit at those loads & EGT? Edge are probably playing the marketing game (tell the customer what she/he wants to hear - not to say that are a bad product). Read the warranty/conditions on some of the higher power products to see what they advise (because it will come up in a warranty claim).

We prefer long term reliability with acceptable power gains, so we permit the power leve to be set thru software, but always ship at a safe level for factory delivered vehicle. As a result modules for heavier use vehicles (trucks) have a lower power setrting than for light duity vehicles (vans & 4x4) or cars.

Having said that my TD 4x4 has about 45% more power than ex factory, but it also has the appropriate monitoring gauges.

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DaveO
ENG-TEK Diesel Performance Centre
Australia

DaveO,

Where is your pyrometer? If it is post turbo I could see where you are getting a lower indication. Also what it the outlet size of the turbo. I know you keep mentioning a 3" exhaust, but the outlet on the turbo does not appear to be that big. Is there a different down pipe available?

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2005 Liberty Limited CRD

taking the turbo off to drill, tap, and clean the manifold for the pyro looked like too much work, so I put it in post turbo. This way if the pyro probe breaks it goes out the exhaust, rather than kill the turbo.

Criuse should see about 150F higher pre turbo. Idle after 30 secs should see it very close to 300F - even in pre-turbo installations (unless your just finished giving the car some serious stick).

3" system is really only for those who NEED the last HP. The cost of the complete system is too high in comparision to 2.75" to warrant the extra $$. The turbo outlet is about 2", but you to allow the hot gasses to expand and flow away quickly, thats why the pipe needs to be larger than 2". Dont have a turbo that I can measure at this time. A good exhaust shop should be able to put a dump pipe together. The hardest part (& $$) is making the turbo end of the dump pipe mounting flange/adaptor. The rest is stanard exhaust pipe work. We custom make the dump pipes (due to low demand on TD Jeeps - huge demand on Toyota, Nissan, and some Mistubishi's so they are pre-made).

As a comparision, replacing the complete system with 3" against 2.75" was about 1.25HP at the wheels, but the cost was up another A$200 retail - and thats when there are no CAT involved! Some peole insist on the 3" systems just the same.

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DaveO
ENG-TEK Diesel Performance Centre
Australia