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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:38 am 
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Location: Nebraska
I get judder (shudder) and jerking under very different conditions. Jerking occurs after acceleration such as an onramp when leveling off at 65 mph where it bucks randomly for a few seconds or sometimes more. If I accelerate with overdrive off and level off at 65 mph and go ahead and set the cruise and wait for around 5 to 10 seconds before hitting the overdrive button there is never jerking. I don’t think it is due to air in the fuel because I have never been able to take even one stroke on the primer (except for priming after filter change) even after sitting in the garage for 3 weeks. My guess is that there is a profound inability of the computer(s) to coordinate the EGR valve, the EGR flow control valve and the fuel flow quickly and accurately enough. Obviously, if installing a lift pump cures the problem then something IS going on with the fuel flow and my guess is consummately wrong.

I get judder at 54 mph in 3rd gear with just the right amount of boost. I need to be going up hill at 52-53 mph and hit it just right to build boost without downshifting, then it judders through the entire drive train. It’s so dramatic that if feels like she’s gonna blow. It’s only done it once by accident and twice on purpose when trying to repeat it.

I offer the following explanation: Just after ignition on the power stroke when the angular position of the crankshaft is in just the right position, the impulse torque can overcome static friction between the clutch surfaces in the torque converter allowing the torque converter to slip. This unloads the drive train beginning the judder cycle. A very short time later as the impulse torque falls off during the same power stroke, dynamic friction between the torque converter clutch plates overcomes the impulse torque and the torque converter grabs. This suddenly reloads the drive train completing the judder cycle. Forced unloading and loading of the drive train occurs twice a revolution producing a dynamic impulse judder (or shudder if you prefer) that corresponds exactly with the beat of the engine.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 6:33 pm 
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Well, I finally put a couple of tubes of Dr Tranny in the slushbox today, and the shudder is virtually gone. I can still make it happen if I try very hard on a hill, but the shudder is very reduced. It is about the same as when it was new. I am soon going to flush the tranny and will definitely going to be adding a couple more tubes.

Thanks for sharing retmil46.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 6:59 pm 
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Timmaah! wrote:
I get judder (shudder) and jerking under very different conditions. Jerking occurs after acceleration such as an onramp when leveling off at 65 mph where it bucks randomly for a few seconds or sometimes more. If I accelerate with overdrive off and level off at 65 mph and go ahead and set the cruise and wait for around 5 to 10 seconds before hitting the overdrive button there is never jerking. I don’t think it is due to air in the fuel because I have never been able to take even one stroke on the primer (except for priming after filter change) even after sitting in the garage for 3 weeks. My guess is that there is a profound inability of the computer(s) to coordinate the EGR valve, the EGR flow control valve and the fuel flow quickly and accurately enough. Obviously, if installing a lift pump cures the problem then something IS going on with the fuel flow and my guess is consummately wrong.

I get judder at 54 mph in 3rd gear with just the right amount of boost. I need to be going up hill at 52-53 mph and hit it just right to build boost without downshifting, then it judders through the entire drive train. It’s so dramatic that if feels like she’s gonna blow. It’s only done it once by accident and twice on purpose when trying to repeat it.

I offer the following explanation: Just after ignition on the power stroke when the angular position of the crankshaft is in just the right position, the impulse torque can overcome static friction between the clutch surfaces in the torque converter allowing the torque converter to slip. This unloads the drive train beginning the judder cycle. A very short time later as the impulse torque falls off during the same power stroke, dynamic friction between the torque converter clutch plates overcomes the impulse torque and the torque converter grabs. This suddenly reloads the drive train completing the judder cycle. Forced unloading and loading of the drive train occurs twice a revolution producing a dynamic impulse judder (or shudder if you prefer) that corresponds exactly with the beat of the engine.



Timmaah, you are describing two different problems. The first is probably fuel supply related. The second is lockup clutch chatter. It happens exactly as you describe and is NOT normal or healthy for a transmission. Clutch chatter is distinct from torque impulse shudder. In the case of impulse shudder, the clutch does not slip, but rather, stays locked to the drive train. It is usually only felt at very low rpm under full load. It involves the engine rapidly accelerating at the peak of the power stroke and then decelerating at the end of the power stroke, thus creating some low frequency harmonics. Because there are only two power strokes in one RPM as you have already mentioned, it can be very pronounced in a powerful engine like a 4 stroke turbo diesel. The reason that we will never see it in the (unmodified) Automatic CRDs, is because of the low RPM at which it occurs, at which we are unable to achieve a full load without the TC spinning the rpm up.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:06 pm 
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Location: Nebraska
nursecosmo wrote:
Timmaah! wrote:
I get judder (shudder) and jerking under very different conditions. Jerking occurs after acceleration such as an onramp when leveling off at 65 mph where it bucks randomly for a few seconds or sometimes more. If I accelerate with overdrive off and level off at 65 mph and go ahead and set the cruise and wait for around 5 to 10 seconds before hitting the overdrive button there is never jerking. I don’t think it is due to air in the fuel because I have never been able to take even one stroke on the primer (except for priming after filter change) even after sitting in the garage for 3 weeks. My guess is that there is a profound inability of the computer(s) to coordinate the EGR valve, the EGR flow control valve and the fuel flow quickly and accurately enough. Obviously, if installing a lift pump cures the problem then something IS going on with the fuel flow and my guess is consummately wrong.

I get judder at 54 mph in 3rd gear with just the right amount of boost. I need to be going up hill at 52-53 mph and hit it just right to build boost without downshifting, then it judders through the entire drive train. It’s so dramatic that if feels like she’s gonna blow. It’s only done it once by accident and twice on purpose when trying to repeat it.

I offer the following explanation: Just after ignition on the power stroke when the angular position of the crankshaft is in just the right position, the impulse torque can overcome static friction between the clutch surfaces in the torque converter allowing the torque converter to slip. This unloads the drive train beginning the judder cycle. A very short time later as the impulse torque falls off during the same power stroke, dynamic friction between the torque converter clutch plates overcomes the impulse torque and the torque converter grabs. This suddenly reloads the drive train completing the judder cycle. Forced unloading and loading of the drive train occurs twice a revolution producing a dynamic impulse judder (or shudder if you prefer) that corresponds exactly with the beat of the engine.



Timmaah, you are describing two different problems. The first is probably fuel supply related. The second is lockup clutch chatter. It happens exactly as you describe and is NOT normal or healthy for a transmission. Clutch chatter is distinct from torque impulse shudder. In the case of impulse shudder, the clutch does not slip, but rather, stays locked to the drive train. It is usually only felt at very low rpm under full load. It involves the engine rapidly accelerating at the peak of the power stroke and then decelerating at the end of the power stroke, thus creating some low frequency harmonics. Because there are only two power strokes in one RPM as you have already mentioned, it can be very pronounced in a powerful engine like a 4 stroke turbo diesel. The reason that we will never see it in the (unmodified) Automatic CRDs, is because of the low RPM at which it occurs, at which we are unable to achieve a full load without the TC spinning the rpm up.


Yes, absolutely, I know that I am describing 2 different problems. The reason I described 2 different problems is that when I read different descriptions that people write I get the impression that some do not necessarily know there are 2 different problems. I did not know for sure there were 2 different problems until I had both problems.

You write, “In the case of impulse shudder, the clutch does not slip, but rather, stays locked to the drive train.” I want to be very clear at this point. I am not saying that the torque converter unlocks and locks causing judder (I may have confused the wording on this in an earlier post). I am saying that the torque converter clutch slips and grabs while in the lock-up position under impulse torque creating drive line judder. As far as I can tell this is our only point of disagreement. I don’t care if you disagree with me on this. We are just going to have to agree to disagree.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 2:03 am 
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Location: Anchorage
As alot of you may know, i have large amounts of shudder, it rattles my teeth. My normal daily commute is lower speed up hill. I can induce shudder at will. It basically feels like rumble strips. I put a 2 oz tube of the dr tranny shudder fix and i would say that it has reduced my shudder by at least 30%.

I can still create it at will.

At 50k I drained and filled 10.5 qt of atf Valvoline +4. I'm at 52k right now and i was leery of putting an additive in my 70 dollar atf.

But i did, and it seems to work, i added another tube this afternoon and we'll see tomorrow.

But it does still shudder, and worse than that, it actually slips (and has before the dr tranny) But it's much harder to induce the slipping, and the shudder is less extreme.

By slipping i mean that instead of the hammer drill like effect, it's as if the tc slips for 1/2 or 2/3ds of a second before grabbing whereas the normal shudder is something like 5 cycles a second.

I've done everything possible to eliminate the shudder, the only way I have been able to reduce it is to use a extremely dirty air filter. (and now dr trany witch i don't really trust)

I don't hate the shudder i just wonder what kind of bad crap is going on to make this happen. It kinda makes me happy, like hanging out with a old friend. It's also a good indicator of how much grunt i have to spare.

Next filter change i'm going to use m1's mp atf or perhaps amsoil's atf.

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:18 am 
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"As alot of you may know, i have large amounts of shudder, it rattles my teeth. My normal daily commute is lower speed up hill. I can induce shudder at will. It basically feels like rumble strips.

At 50k I drained and filled 10.5 qt of atf Valvoline +4. I'm at 52k right now"

Effect.......and, cause.

Use DCJ Synthetic ATF+4, emphasis on the DCJ - has friction modifiers specific to Diesel engine service, so also good for similar transmissions used behind those other engines - see the good Doctor if necessary

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 Post subject: ATF+4
PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:40 pm 
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After doing my research and weighing my experience with other lubrication recommendations, I decided I would not deviate from the recommendations.
Many years ago in the era of the 4010 John Deere they had wet brakes and John Deere recommended JD303 transmission fluid. Those who did not use JD303 got brake chatter problems. Since the brakes run slower than the engine output chatter was a lower frequency than shutter in the KJ.
Chrysler designed the transmission to run with ATF+4 because it was cheaper to have a custom oil than having to design the transmission to run with an existing mineral oil and be more efficient. When they find a newer fluid that has more benefits and is backward compatible, the will call it ATF+5, if they have not all ready. I will not be amazed if the transmission works even better with ATF+5 than ATF+4, if and when ATF+5 is available.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:16 pm 
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Location: Anchorage
ATF +4 is a SPEC that is actually OWNED and Licensed by Chrysler. (unlike every other fluid)

Everything with the atf +4 label has the EXACT SAME ADDITIVE PACK
The only difference is the base oil

Valvoline is poured from the same barrel as the mopar part number.b

In addition to this, i have the same shudder with mopar atf (factory fill)

I think it's uncharacteristic of you, gmtd to crap on a lube w/o any research.

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:34 pm 
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...and while we make a big deal about the base oils, it's generally the additives that do all of the work in transmission fluid and motor oil. It may or may not be Valvoline, but someone makes the fluid for Chrysler.


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 Post subject: Quick lesson Mineral vs Synthetic
PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:50 pm 
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Mineral oil is a mix of various molecular carbon chains that give the desired viscosity.
With Synthetic, almost all of the molecular carbon chains are the same, no asphalt blended with octane to make it the right viscosity.
Add the additive package to either mineral or synthetic, assuming the viscountcies are the same, the synthetic will provide the superior lubrication and be more stable over the life of the base and additive package. With enough Oil analysis, additive replenishment, pH adjustment, and contaminant removal; you could run the synthetic oil for a lifetime.
Any competent lubrication manufacturer can produce a product to meet a specification as long as the lawyers stay out of the way.

To be safe and cost effective, I follow recommended change intervals and use recommended lubricants that meet or exceed the specifications.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Instant Shudder Fixx
PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 8:30 am 
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I received the following from Lubegard about how many tubes of Instant Shudder Fixx to add:

Quote:
I would suggest adding one tube to start. If that doesn’t completely eliminate the shudder, you can add a second tune, but I do not recommend using more than two tubes.

Please let me know if I can do anything else.

Best regards,

Elise Haviland ext. 11
International Lubricants Inc.
7930 Occidental South; Seattle WA 98108
T/206-762-5343 or Toll Free/800-333-5823(LUBE)
F/206-762-7989
www.Lubegard.com

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 11:25 pm 
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I believe it is shell that supplies the ATF for the transmissions.

If I remember correctly our transmission is made at the the Indiana Transmission Plant 1.

I will find out and set the record straight on who supplies the initial fill Tranny fluid.

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2006 Liberty CRD
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:59 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Squeeto wrote:
Some other possibilities for tranny fluid:
Mobil 1 ATF
Valvoline MaxLife ATF

Good discussion here:
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... hp?t=95598



Valvoline MaxLife ATF is to standard MS9602, I believe this is as it should be.

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BP ULTIMATE
Extra Transmission cooler
2.5 inch full flow muffler.
Fuel Heater Disconnected.
In tank lift pump :)
Provent :)
Boost, EGT and Trans temp.
Engine Bay Vents soon.
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Hemi TC P04736587AC replaced (original TC P04736582AD in '07 KJ CRD) - Nice -:) :) :)

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 Post subject: shudder with oem tc no transgo no suncoast OEM atf+4
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:12 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
gmctd wrote:
Can we get a show of hands from those who use only DCJ ATF+4 and get the shudder, oem TC or Suncoast TC...........

me, DCJ ATF+4, Suncoast, EDGE Trail, INMOTION - no unanticipated\unexpected shudder - didn't drive it enuff with EDGE Trail module to know if shudder was occurring B4 Suncoast


07 kj crd, SHUDDER with oem tc no transgo no suncoast OEM atf+4 and quick learns done.

Occurs usually when temps lowish, after gear change and the pressure in the tranny seems to back off a little and cant make up its mind for a little while as to what to do.

Im seriously considering valvoline atf maxlife, its standard is MS9602, Australia wont market valvoline atf4 but stand by maxlife as the product to use. I phoned their head office yesterday and spoke with their technical people.

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KJ CRD 2.8L AUTO 2007
BP ULTIMATE
Extra Transmission cooler
2.5 inch full flow muffler.
Fuel Heater Disconnected.
In tank lift pump :)
Provent :)
Boost, EGT and Trans temp.
Engine Bay Vents soon.
Transgo Valve body (no resistor) :)
Hemi TC P04736587AC replaced (original TC P04736582AD in '07 KJ CRD) - Nice -:) :) :)

If im not here Im there....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:21 pm 
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Location: Madison WI
Why Lube Guard?

Is it basically kerosine?

Would any of the other ATF shudder fix products work the same, like Lucas etc...?

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2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:09 pm 
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I don't know what is in lubegaurd, but Dr Tranny shudder fix has actual friction modifiers in it, and worked VERY well at eliminating shudder in my tranny.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:10 pm 
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It's the same stuff

http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/tran ... _fixx.html

I found a tube of it at Car Quest today, added it and, I think it's part of my vibration issues. I may add another tube Tuesday when they get more in.

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2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:19 pm 
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Then no. It is not kerosene. It is a very thick foul smelling stuff (kind of like peppers).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:43 pm 
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I ordered some today, I am going to put it in the Hot Tune Jeep, I have had shudder on a few occasions, at lock up as I started going up a grade. If it don't work, I am going to neuter the Jeep back to an ECO tune. :( If it does work? 2 Hot tuned Jeeps :twisted:

Jeepers Creepers

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:03 pm 
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So, I put the Dr. Tranny Shudder Eliminator in, and I have not been able to get any shudder out of the Hot Tuned Libby, even at 1800 RPM 5th gear, locked up. I am wondering is the shudder just a symptom, or the cause for TC failure. Sure it will prevent the lock up from slipping, but what about the components, that create the lock up, I would think they are still under the same strain?

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.


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