Failed emissions in Colorado

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Nov 12, 2011 9:35 pm

The key issue with dino oil is temperature - if it overheats it breaks down quicker than synthetic - because it has a wider variation in molecule sizes and the small ones oxidize easier, If there's no overheat - especially in the Turbo cooldown - it shouldn't be a issue. - but the turbo cooldown timer especially after speed or towing is sacred, ignore it and the oil passages will die.

and Europe classifies most American 'synthetics' as 'Dino' - i.e. they're highly refined dino - they are not synthetically created molecules. (Exxon lost a lawsuit so the American definition is per lawyer)

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Nov 12, 2011 9:49 pm

racertracer wrote:

Normally, conventional oil (non synthetic) is changed at 3000 miles in a gasser.

Conventional oil in a Diesel is changed much sooner and for that reason and many others it is not used.

Conventional oil quickly breaks down in our high heat turbo charged engine.

If you run conventional oil through our turbos, 4Ow oil degrades down to 30W, 20W or less very quickly.

It is just not possible for a conventional oil to withstand the high heat of our turbos for an extended amount of time so why do it. Cheap oil is cheap oil. Don't take the chance.

A hard driven CRD on as little as a 50 mile trip could make your motor oil worthless and toast your engine in short order.

Spend a few weeks reading Bob the oil guy's web site and get enlightened, the web site talks about all there is to know about motor oil.

Many people on that site speak about our CRD and what oil is best to use for it, many discussions on 0w-40, 5w-40, 15w-40, brands and their change intervals.

Then explain why my father's '01 7.3 PS made it over 775,000 miles on the original engine using dino 15w-40 changed every 5k,the oil was Co-op brand made by Valvoline.Works it very hard so that turbo get's hot,always pulling 15,000lbs+ and no turbo cool down.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Nov 12, 2011 9:51 pm

geordi wrote:

I don't see how that is possible Sam - You seriously use non-synthetic oil in the CRD? Aside from the fact that it calls for a synthetic oil from VM, the rating of standard oils barely exceeds CF, when we also are supposed to have a CH grade or higher. So standard oils aren't anywhere within the spec.

How is it you have run with them and not killed an engine? Someone else on here has already lost an engine and they definitely said they were running standard IIRC.

I use Delo 15-40 CI-4 diesel oil.

kidjedi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:15 pm

So I am going through this process with the 2006 CRD I just purchased. For the record, you CANNOT title a vehicle in my county without passing the emissions test.

A lot of the information from this thread is older (regarding being able to get a waiver for big/studded tires or AWD diesels), but to bring things up to date, there are currently only TWO four wheel dynamometers in the entire state of CO. One is at Go Dodge in south Denver, the other is at a place in Ft. Collins.

I have heard over and over and over again that I should NOT let them put my vehicle on a two wheel dynamometer (and that even a four wheel could cause problems). I researched this a ton, and when I had enough information, I voiced my concerns to the person in charge at the state level. The first response was that my 2006 CRD can operate in 2wd mode and would be fine on ANY two wheel rollers in the state. I responded with information regarding the ESP/ESC system, how even if you turn off ESP the brakes still engage for the advanced traction control and thus the vehicle should not be tested on two wheel rollers, how you would need to actually unhook the ABS sensor at every wheel to really turn off the ESC (which I was told by a tech at one of the diesel inspection stations), how the tech also told me that my vehicle would DEFINITELY be in "limp mode" for the drive home and they'll actually cancel your appointment if it's snowing or the temp is below 32 degrees because they WILL be sending you home with a crippled vehicle (no ABS, CEL on, etc.) and they could be held legally responsible for an accident (which it seems like would still be the case even if there was no snow/ice involved).

Here is the response I received:

Quote:

I looked into the Electronic Stability Program (ESP) system on the Jeep Liberty a little further.

The ESP system incorporates both a Traction Control feature along with Electronic Stability Control (ESC) - also known as skid control. It is the Traction Control feature that we are concerned with.

When the ESP system is disabled, Traction Control is disabled, but not necessarily the ESC or power reduction functions. With both drive wheel's speed equal, the lateral accelerometer, steering angle sensor, and yaw rate sensor (all devices monitored for skid control) reporting normal, the ESC system is 'happy'. The system will not try to reduce power either (again, with ESP disabled).

Disabling of Traction Control systems is a regular procedure in both the gasoline and diesel emission inspection programs. We are not advocating an 'intrusive' method of disabling any system - such as disconnecting wheel sensors, pulling fuses, etc.

We do have an alternate test procedure available through our Emission Technical Center network for any vehicle which is deemed 'untestable' on our current equipment.

A search of our database shows that we have never had a CRD Liberty in for an 'untestable' evaluation.

There have been over 300 inspections performed on 2006 Jeep diesels in Colorado's emissions program.

Furthermore, there were just under 1300 2006 Jeep Liberty vehicles tested through our gasoline emissions program in 2012. These were inspected on two-wheel drive dynamometers. While I understand this is not a direct comparison to the CRD Liberty, I find no specified differences in the traction control systems between diesel and gasoline.

I cannot comment on the information you were provided, as I was not present during those discussions, nor do I know who said what. Nor do I find Internet enthusiast forums to be very reliable.

Thoughts?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:34 pm

Just do the test.

They did my 2005 on a two wheel roller, and while it has no ESP, the ABS light was on until I turned off the engine and turned it back on. I think it cleared after driving about 10ft. It shouldn't put your jeep into some kind of permanent limp mode. I mean it's not going to explode on the rollers, they'll know right away if there's a problem, and it sound like other 2006s don't have one.

kidjedi · **Posted:** Wed Apr 17, 2013 3:48 pm

You were right, CATCRD. No issue whatsoever. In fact, I did everything "wrong" just to play guinea pig. I didn't warm up the vehicle. I didn't worry about how full the tank was. I didn't use biodiesel. Etc. etc. I basically ignored all the recommendations I've found in my research over the past two months. Actually... I had cleaned out my MAP sensor and I did use a fuel additive.

I made my appt. for a day where the weather wouldn't be bad and the temp would be over 40 degrees (their rules).

10 minutes before the appt. I started my Jeep and drove it there (FWIW, the tank was about half full). After hearing all the horror stories of people putting their CRD's on the two-wheel rollers, I cringed a little bit when I handed over my keys. I did make sure to tell the tech to MAKE SURE the ESP button was pushed so everything was off. He let me know he knew all about it, and said they would even unhook the ABS if it was necessary (turns out it wasn't).

Half an hour later, I got my keys back and was on my merry way. The ABS and a few other lights came on when I started the car, but they all turned off before I even had a chance to put it in drive.

The tech said the vehicle blew a little dirty, but was because I hadn't warmed up the engine (at all). Zero shift 0%. 40mph was 4%. 50mph was 5%. 60 mpg was 9%.

Pretty painless (other than being out the $55). Two years and I'll have to do it again.

Failed emissions in Colorado

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