Why does the dealer tell me to walk away?

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 26, 2011 11:49 am

taroo wrote:

Forgot to mention...

If temp needle is hanging out to the left of center, then replace the thermostat. Many threads here on the topic.

taroo wrote:

Good choice and welcome !

Get rid of the EGR by using GDE or SEGR
Install Provent to clear up the turbo
Replace Xerex G5 with same but new
Replace Red Top with Sears Platinum
Replace fuel filter new Wix
Use Turbo Diesel syn motor oil

I love my CRD

Looks like someone read the noob guide and no real need to do all that at one the elephant hose mod is a cheap alternative to the provent and can be done for like 5 bucks. Unless your electronics are acting funny don't worry about the battery . The fuel filter may be a good idea to keep a spare around you will know when the other one gets clogged and needs replacing. The only one I would do here really soon is the motor oil and the coolent doubt either one has been done in awhile unless the coolent is a nice bright red color. But the oil and the EHM would be my first to things that get done along with a fumoto drain plug to keep from stripping the current one the are about $10. And to clear the turbo up before you change your oil go out and hammer on the thing let it see the red line but only after letting it get warm of course. And in final get a GDE tune ASAP and enjoy the gas mileage increase and the extra torque plus the piece of mind that you are saving your little diesel never hurts.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Gesh 8k is not enough money heck I am seeing 91 wranglers asking this much. I was asking 10k more than your offer not that long ago. That is peanut money figure your dad paid near 20k more for it. These CRDs are guy's jeeps or a real mechanical ladies rig. One day I would not be shocked if these CRDs become collectible. Heck I had a couple people trying to buy mine at gas stations.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 4:36 am

With that low of miles you have plenty of time to find an honest and reliable diesel mechanic. Your dealership probably didn't want to buy it because they have no one qualified to service it. If your gonna throw money away $1700 on an extended service warantee. Send it to me... All you need is a ORM (free and takes about 5 seconds), an EHM ($10 and takes 5 minutes), Fuel filter (Probably been changed by dealership on last service so just keep handy), CAC (charge air cooler) or intercooler lines ($120 at dealership and will take 15-30 minutes to install but you may not need them for many thousands of miles but I'd keep them handy. A bottle of Power Service diesel fuel treatment (white bottle for winter and silver bottle for summer) and your good to go! Even if you keep it and decide you want to get rid of it later you'll have people climbing over one another to buy it. Fuel mileage for a grocery getter is 20mpg (winter) to 24mpg (summer) after mods and long trip highway miles range between 26mpg(winter) to 32mpg(summer). Hell if I wasn't 1800 miles away from you I'd buy it from you as is for 9K My sister live about 30 miles from you and if she wasn't broke I'd have her help you pass it on to someone who'd REALLY appreciate it.

PS. Really sorry for your loss. Your dad obviously loved diesels! My kinda man.

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:13 am

My final comment on this thread.
DieselJeepLuvr is correct on time. The big job is the timing belt at 100k and by then you may have enough time+courage to do it yourself. Sprinter sites were mentioned but you may be lucky to find a Mercedes mechanic too. I have one about 5 miles from me, works out of his barn. Loves to work on the little foreign diesels and appreciates the eccentricities.

One more thing, your Dad didn't wash his engine bay because he probably did not like replacing the glow-plugs. However, his mud flaps likely saves the plastic the plastic trim and I have not seen seats that clean in 90k+ miles :lol:

With the new fuel head and routine maintenance, it seems that your Dad took much better care of this machine than average. Getting a used vehicle like this at that price is a steal. Take good care of her and you'll get tired of driving her before she wears out.

B2

Big Montana · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:05 pm

If you have the money and the need for an extra car, I would buy it. I've put all 105k miles on mine since 2005 and it's been in the shop three times early on for recall work and a bent driveshaft. I think you'll be fine. The cold starts are rough, but I plug my block heater in at night on a timer and it sounds smooth each morning. Obviously you'd be getting a six year old car, but it looks like your dad took good care of it. It could be a lot of fun. I didn't do the EHM or the Provent stuff. I got the GDE Eco tune at about 60k miles and I'm still fine. You don't need to do all of those things. I would get the Eco tune eventually though. Those guys are great, and the tune is wonderful. I live near them, so I could just drive over. You would need to remove your computer and send it to them. Check out their website. The Jeeps do soot up for sure... My new oil would turn jet black in about 500 miles... but the GDE Eco tune prevents the soot from blowing back in. My oil is now clean the whole time through, and I don't leave ANY black clouds behind me on quick take-offs.

Again, it's a six year old Jeep. It's not going to be perfect, but I have had a lot of fun with this thing. I've learned a lot and it's fun to drive. It's perfect for grocery runs too.

sbohner · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 1:07 pm

rebar wrote:

JL Rockies wrote:

The 05 was kinda lame though.

Lame?

Thanks guys. I am mechanically inclined. But I'm no diesel mechanic. Sounds like if I threw say another 1K at it, I might be ok for another 50K. Not sure another 6 months of warranty is worth it.

If I did all the mods, would it still soot up if I babied it? Or would I always have to run it hard and far (I live close to many of my destinations) to keep the cobwebs out?

2005 is not lame - not much different than 2006. Both were subject to a bunch of ECM patches that made them less robust. However, the GDE Eco or Hot Tunes fix it for the most part.

There is no reason why the 2005 CRD engine shouldn't go another 200K if you do the major maintenance things (timing belt, oil, etc.). The engine is used in Europe for larger vehicles than the Jeep and they go a long way.

With over 100k on mine, it has been a tank. It is strong enough to pull a good size trailer when called upon, it has great 4WD, it gets 23-29 MPG on the highway (depending how far away from 65 MPH you stray), and it will get you there with reasonably good reliability (better than most Chrysler/Jeep products). Overall, it is a great vehicle. The dealer support is lame most of the time. If you can find a good service person who knows diesels, your maintenance will be easier.

I have not seen an extended warranty on a car worth the cost. It is always a gamble not having a warranty, but with one you already paid the price. In your case, you know the vehicle through your father and the likelihood of abuse problems is ameliorated. If it would give you peace of mind, go for it.

Anyway, I hope that this helps.

camo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 8:25 pm

if you dont want it let me know, I will buy it.....

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 8:39 pm

OOPs forgot to add that you need to clean your MAP sensor ($2.97 for can of brake-clean and 5 minutes effort) After the ORM, EHM and cleaning your MAP sensor you shouldn't have any more issues with soot.

rebar · **Posted:** Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:26 pm

Thanks for the warm welcome and all the suggestions guys. I have a appointment to take ownership tomorrow! :BANANA:

And no taxes since its a inheritance.. :BANANA:

Im a little overwhelmed on the order of things I want to do but one step at a time. My first plan of action is to give Keith at GDE a call and order the Full Torque ECO tune with flash programmer and order a fumoto F-102 drain plug. Iv got the service history, option's ordered and recall documents. Looks like one of the recalls was the F37 torque converter and reprogram pcm/tcm. I do plan on towing a small trailer but will run this TC until I get the shudder Iv read about.

I always try to search my questions first but forgive me if I ask again to clarify.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:30 pm

I love the fumoto oil drain plug! Makes the task much more pleasant...

rebar · **Posted:** Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:37 pm

Is there a preferred Vender for the CRD before I start to order stuff??

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:06 pm

rebar wrote:

Is there a preferred Vender for the CRD before I start to order stuff??

The cheapest, usually.

Timing belt from Amazon, most other dealer-only things from Mopar parts America dot com.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:36 pm

Well any place cheap just go for an online mopar dealership and avoid certian cheap parts and definitely no cheap oil unless doing an engine flush. Also no K&N air filters or oil based filters either stock or Amsoil preferable Amsoil there are quite a few dealers on here. NAPA (reman) or Mopar for CVs all others will give you headaches and probably no even work. Timken wheel bearings and ceramic brake pads are a requirement or Organics like EBC. Also if you have any more ?s about anything just through it on the CRD section and it will definitely get and answer.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:10 pm

Well Looks like you bought it and if you had not for $8k someone here might have found you and beat you. that was a very good deal with all the known work done to it. 30 Mpg is not too optimistic. with my 06 just the other day I went to Philadelphia and back, I got 29.5 MPG! that was mostly highway, PA turnpike and some driving in the city down congested south street for several miles.

Get the GDE eco tune and a pro-vent or other oil separator like maybe the BMW one someone here started looking at from VW TDI forums and you will be fine. as for the lift pump I don't have one and will not get one until its needed. The newer fuel head works good for me keeping out most air that I have no troubles with air in fuel.

rebar · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 4:47 pm

After hearing about CRD turbo failures, Im thinking about GDE's turbo kit instead of only the eco-tune. How difficult is it to install? Iv heard the ECU re-program is included in the price which makes it attractive and the piece of mind knowing your turbo isn't about to puke it's self into your low mileage engine is priceless. Well, almost.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 6:00 pm

In all fairness I suspect we "hear" about all the turbo failures of which there have been several altough some of those were used turbos which makes them suspect to start with. Thoughts to consider and yes I've got a stock turbo, stock TC and GDE EcoTune but have put a deposit on a GDE turbo just because:
1. first thing I'd do is pull the turbo to intercooler hose (for access) then pull the airbox to turbo hose (check lower end from split) and closely inspect the turbo vanes for any sign of contact with the sides and inspect the shaft for play (look around on the forum or pm geordi for what type of play is ok). You might also want to turbo vane actuator function (per GDE "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment."). Of those check pan out I'd not worry much about the turbo (of course use proper oil and short ca. 6k oil and filter changes and religious turbo cool down to improve turbo life) and go for the EcoTune which will in part help turbo life by what it does to EGR function and soot.
2. GDE turbo is a chunk of change but is a better and later model. Price does include the ECU tune needed to run the turbo and that tune is different from the other GDE tunes (those of us with a GDE tune get a bit of a discount here) so that's a bit of a plus if you intend to buy the tune anyway as you won't pay for it twice. The GDE turbo is a custom item that GDE only builds when they have enough orders so if you are serious you need to call Keith ASAP or email him and check on availability (I know he has some in production but don't know current status or if he has any that are not spoken for). Install is not beyond DIY but it's involved especially since you really need a torque converter upgrade to Mopar Euro or something like SunCoast (see http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/71.page for install instructions). Is the GDE turbo better - no doubt; is it more durable - almost certainly; will it survive a catastrophic loss of oil - no; is it prone to such an oil loss - don't know.

You pay your money and what happens happens. Best you can do is proper maintenance in any case.

rebar · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:10 am

It's mine now, but Im sort of on the fence if I want to keep it. It really depends on whether I can find a mechanic who has more than the 45 minute jeep diesel video under his belt and really knows the VM Motori 2.8 L straight-4 common rail turbo-diesel. Since only 10,000 of these were built I doubt I will find anyone.

Can someone explain why its been recommended to find a ML 320 Cdi or Sprinter mechanic when the Jeep has a VM Motori engine and not a Mercedes-Benz?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2012 12:26 pm

Because they understand small diesel engines as opposed to the common Jeep mechanic that doesn't. IMHO if you need a mechanic for the diesel part of the vehicle 1) lots of members are willing to help and the forum has information on just about any problem in that area; 2) you may get lucky and a relatively nearby dealer has a Jeep mechanic who actually works on KJ CRDs; 3) look for a mechanic that works on small automotive diesels (not semi's) not just the ones you mentioned. Remember it's only the engine and directly associated fuel system that's different from the KJ gassers. The body; AC/heat; suspension; steering; brakes; transmission including 4w; etc are pretty much just the same as on a KJ gasser.

Frankly my experience at dealers in recent years suggests the poor service problem often relates more to the idiot service writer who ignores all you say and hands the mechanic a service ticket that's not much more than "owner says vehicle made a funny noise last Tuesday". Sorry for the rant but I prefer having the ability to talk with the person who actually works on the vehicle not some in between.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2012 4:25 pm

Indeed. The BIGGEST problem with the dealers is the service writer system, where they are neither mechanics OR car people. Often, the ticket I have seen being handed out with a vehicle is not much more than "car broken, check wallet depth and advise"

Find an independent, for a diesel specific, look around for your local Bosch Injector service shop. They won't do the actual wrenching, but they will be able to tell you who is the best in the area for your vehicle and who THEY respect for quality service work. Anything that seems off about your CRD, ask here - we have the ultimate knowledge base about these CRDs, and can diagnose and advise in most cases without physical access to the vehicle. No dealer would ever be able to match that level of detailed knowledge.

rebar · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2012 6:43 pm

I installed the FT eco-tune the other day and it runs great. I just wish I had a EVIC so I could immediately see the mileage difference. But I do feel the difference with additional HP & torque.

Keith mentioned he didn't feel the CCV was a issue with his tune because with the EGR closed, little to no soot gets into the intake. Oil without the soot might actually clear out soot from the first 53K he thought. :?:

Why does the dealer tell me to walk away?

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