Rocker/Lifter Teardown with TB (Completed 3-8) WITH VIDEO!!

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:51 pm

Alright, here's what I found out today.

The valve cover bolts are 8mm 1.25 pitch thread. So if you get 8MM x 1.25 x 100MM you have a bolt that is just slightly longer than the longest of your valve cover (Even counting the head). You can use something to buzz the head off of the bolt and use them as a guide to put the valve cover back on.

I picked up 6 of these bolts to use as guides for $8 at Ace Hardware.

Just sharing. :pepper:

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:50 pm

LINK TO MY VIDEO SHOWING ROCKER Damage:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt1Rd7RCIA4

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:07 pm

At least you got to 117k. I made only 96k before my rockers went. I think at my next timing belt change, I will remove the intake for inspection.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:35 pm

Kjjet, has your belt also skipped a tooth, or they just went bad out of the blue?

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:59 pm

thermorex wrote:

Kjjet, has your belt also skipped a tooth, or they just went bad out of the blue?

Funny you asked.....I thought it just jumped at tooth. But after all the work and inspection. I believe the rocker was worn down to the point the cam was riding on the sides of the rocker them broke at start-up causing the belt to jump.

I replaced all the rockers, lifters and exhaust cam. Along with all the timing parts. Runs better than ever. MPG is up.

I believe we will be seeing even more rocker & lifter issues here at LOST.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:11 pm

kjjet wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Kjjet, has your belt also skipped a tooth, or they just went bad out of the blue?

Funny you asked.....I thought it just jumped at tooth. But after all the work and inspection. I believe the rocker was worn down to the point the cam was riding on the sides of the rocker them broke at start-up causing the belt to jump.

I replaced all the rockers, lifters and exhaust cam. Along with all the timing parts. Runs better than ever. MPG is up.

I believe we will be seeing even more rocker & lifter issues here at LOST.

I see. I think I'll just schedule a water pump change and with that occasion, I'll take a look at the rockers too. I hear too many people having issues. I wonder if i should have the whole cylinder head replaced with a new one, may be a little overkill, but at least everything should be bullet proof after. Thanks for answering!

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:38 am

thermorex wrote:

kjjet wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Kjjet, has your belt also skipped a tooth, or they just went bad out of the blue?

Funny you asked.....I thought it just jumped at tooth. But after all the work and inspection. I believe the rocker was worn down to the point the cam was riding on the sides of the rocker them broke at start-up causing the belt to jump.

I replaced all the rockers, lifters and exhaust cam. Along with all the timing parts. Runs better than ever. MPG is up.

I believe we will be seeing even more rocker & lifter issues here at LOST.

I see. I think I'll just schedule a water pump change and with that occasion, I'll take a look at the rockers too. I hear too many people having issues. I wonder if i should have the whole cylinder head replaced with a new one, may be a little overkill, but at least everything should be bullet proof after. Thanks for answering!

The head's for the most part are good. Some reports of head gasket issues. Yes...that would be overkill. I am more concerned about rod bearing before the head. Before i go that deep in the engine, it will be towed to the bone yard. I do drive it alot but its an extra set of wheels for me. Maintenance on the Jeep CRD is more than all of my other cars combined. I try to make it fun.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:11 am

I agree. I think I'll get a set of rockers and as soon as I get my crd home, I'll inspect them (and actually replace them if im there) and also get the water pump changed.

And hell yea, this car is more expensive to maintain than my former Vw R32 mk5, jeep DIY and r32 fully serviced by dealer. The 20k service was $1000 for that car (bunch of fluids changed, including haldex), it seemed so expensive, but I spent more for the crd timing belt (with water pump -that I haven't changed- and crank pulley). Lol. I know it's not really apples to apples but still seems expensive. If I'm to compare the costs with the xj, I think when I draw the line the cost if driving 100k with xj is lower than the crd... That including the fuel but excluding towing. But to be honest, I like more the crd! I guess it's that manly smell of diesel, you wake up in the morning and use it as an aftershave. Lol.

jsp · **Joined:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:04 pm **Posts:** 10

If you still have the timing belt cover open, would you mind terribly measuring the diameter of the cam pulleys (tooth to tooth and hollow to hollow) and their minimum separation from each other?

Thanks;

J

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 3:45 pm

jsp wrote:

If you still have the timing belt cover open, would you mind terribly measuring the diameter of the cam pulleys (tooth to tooth and hollow to hollow) and their minimum separation from each other?

Thanks;

J

Well I won't be putting mine back together until Monday when my Valve Cover gasket and O-Rings come in, but do you want it in Metric or SAE?

I don't mind doing stuff like this at all, especially since I'm in there.

Anyone need any pictures of anything else while I'm in there?

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:30 pm

Hexus wrote:

jsp wrote:

If you still have the timing belt cover open, would you mind terribly measuring the diameter of the cam pulleys (tooth to tooth and hollow to hollow) and their minimum separation from each other?

Thanks;

J

Well I won't be putting mine back together until Monday when my Valve Cover gasket and O-Rings come in, but do you want it in Metric or SAE?

I don't mind doing stuff like this at all, especially since I'm in there.

Anyone need any pictures of anything else while I'm in there?

It may be a little hard to get. But, Try to get a pic of the crankshaft timing mark. I have explained it to lots of people. Its important to have it at 90 degrees or 3:00 to install the flywheel pin and time everything.
Thanks!

jsp · **Joined:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:04 pm **Posts:** 10

Hexus wrote:

jsp wrote:

If you still have the timing belt cover open, would you mind terribly measuring the diameter of the cam pulleys (tooth to tooth and hollow to hollow) and their minimum separation from each other?

Thanks;

J

Well I won't be putting mine back together until Monday when my Valve Cover gasket and O-Rings come in, but do you want it in Metric or SAE?

I don't mind doing stuff like this at all, especially since I'm in there.

Anyone need any pictures of anything else while I'm in there?

Excellent! I prefer imperial, but I can translate from metric. The most accurate measuring method you have is best.

Thank-you.

J

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:07 am

Insofar as sprocket measurements I'm going to have to find some Calipers, the set I had has gone missing since I've moved 5 times in 8 years for the Railroad....

Anyways, the Valve cover is back on (What a pain in the kiester) and the fuel rail is back on, hopefully my crush washers for my injectors will show up today.

Whatever you do, don't lose the little clips that retain the fuel tube on top of the injectors, they're $20.

Wiring harness is back on, I'm still nervous about the rockers/lifters. I followed the torque guide in the service manual to a tee, kinda upset me that I forgot the fuel line bolts to the last bolt in the valve cover and I had to go dig the torque wrench out of the cabinet after I had already put it up, but it's done.

I went ahead and replaced the Thermostat while I was right there, I figured why not. The gasket on the head had to be removed with a razor and a small screwdriver... :furious:

Those Rockers/Lifters make me so nervous...
Is there a way to test to ensure that the rockers/lifters are in place short of putting it all back together and turning the crank by hand? :banghead:

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:44 am

Hexus wrote:

.

Those Rockers/Lifters make me so nervous...
Is there a way to test to ensure that the rockers/lifters are in place short of putting it all back together and turning the crank by hand? :banghead:

No....All you can do is take your time and install the intake by the manual and it should be good.

I'm sure you had the crank set @ 90 degrees past TDC and the pins in each camshaft? Correct?

It is recomended to install the rockers with some heavy Grease like wheel bearing so they hold better during install. Did you use any? Some do and some don't.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:20 am

Yes, I took my time and installed it with the bolts I manufactured for use as guide pins. My wife watched me lower it and didn't see any rocker/lifter movement on either side with the flashlight until she couldn't see it any more and by then it was lined up with the bolt holes so there shouldn't have been any movement.

I followed the Service Manual exactly and torqued in the order prescribed.

I used Lubriplate Assembly lube from NAPA on all of the Rocker arms and dipped the lifters in oil before I inserted them, I also put the assembly lube on the top of the valve springs to help hold the rockers there (not that it helps much, but some).

Pins have been in the valve cover since before I broke the sprocket nuts loose with the VM.1085. Set at 90 Deg. PTDC still.

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:00 pm

Hexus wrote:

Yes, I took my time and installed it with the bolts I manufactured for use as guide pins. My wife watched me lower it and didn't see any rocker/lifter movement on either side with the flashlight until she couldn't see it any more and by then it was lined up with the bolt holes so there shouldn't have been any movement.

I followed the Service Manual exactly and torqued in the order prescribed.

I used Lubriplate Assembly lube from NAPA on all of the Rocker arms and dipped the lifters in oil before I inserted them, I also put the assembly lube on the top of the valve springs to help hold the rockers there (not that it helps much, but some).

Pins have been in the valve cover since before I broke the sprocket nuts loose with the VM.1085. Set at 90 Deg. PTDC still.

Excellent!!! Lubriplate is great stuff. Did you change the oil? If not do so and change it again in 1000 miles. Some say to use some cheep oil to do this. The way i see it oil is cheaper than bearings. Use your normal oil!! + mixing oil types of oil is not a good idea.

Nice job and good luck!

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:47 pm

I changed the oil and filter when I did the Turbo at the onset of this troubleshooting session.

So brand new oil in there just waiting to be fired up, it hasn't even been started since the oil was changed.

Good thought to change it shortly after though, I can check the color and send it to have it tested as well as get that filter with the assembly grease in it out of there, because I'm sure that's where it's going to end up, stuck in my filter.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:30 pm

Today I did the final clean on all the injectors. Used Carb Cleaner to clean up the injectors, went by my doctor's office and borrowed (stole with permission) some of the very long cotton swabs to clean the injector receptacles before replacing the injectors.

Brand new O-Rings and Copper crush washers on the bottom, torqued to 34.5 N/M as per the service manual. Re-attached the fuel lines and ensured they were torqued down as well. Injectors were numbered and ID #'s were written down to verify all injectors are in the same place. Fuel tube went back in like a charm and my brand new retainer clips went into their new homes on the #3 and #1 injector as I still haven't found the ones that flew across the garage to god-knows-where.

I took the Chinese-Finger-Puzzle heat shield off of the bottom radiator hose and used the rubber-band-like end pieces to secure it to the new bottom radiator hose and reconnected it ensuring that I ran it back below the power steering lines as my picture reference shows it was when I removed it.

I re-installed my CCV on the valve cover and hooked up all the wiring from the harness to the injectors, fuel pump, MAP Sensor, etc.

Tomorrow I may start on the sprockets/belt/etc....

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:49 am

Sound like your doing a great job. Lots of people will benefit from your post.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:25 pm

Well, I put it back together. I started it up tonight after I put the timing belt back on. I rotated everything and checked it with the pins 3 times.

It built up then let off resistance while I was turning the crank but I assumed that is normal during compression.

It started up after I bled the fuel line, but it just doesn't sound right. It revved way up when it started, then it idled down some, then a LOW COOLANT warning (of course, I don't have it hooked up atm) came on, and the engine died.

I"m not sure if I'm terrified it isn't going to run right or if it really isn't running right...

Bleh..

Rocker/Lifter Teardown with TB (Completed 3-8) WITH VIDEO!!

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