Other than part 5142799AA what EGR parts are replaced?

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Fri May 05, 2006 6:19 pm

Naturist,

As always thanks for the info. You said the failed valve you have is in the open position? Does the butterfly seem to be moveable? Any spring action noticeable?

kjfishman · **Posted:** Sat May 13, 2006 12:07 pm

Goglio704 wrote:

I searched for 5142799AA on this forum and found about 4 mentions of it being replaced during an EGR failure event. That part number as far as I can tell is for the "EGR flow control valve." This part is also known as an anti shudder valve, anti run on valve, throttle body (to some dealers), and probably some other names as well. I've looked it up on two different online mopar parts sites. One called it an EGR valve, one called it an intake throttle! Did anybody have an EGR failure that didn't involve replacing this part? The 5142799AA is not really the EGR valve, it is related but it is a separate piece. Has anybody had to have the actual EGR replaced? Please let me know a part number if you have one. I'm trying to figure out how many of the "EGR valve" failures are actually the "EGR flow control valve." Any help would be appreciated.

15K MILES
Parts
5166555-AB valve EGR 14038024
5066386-AA Coolant

Labor
replaced egr valve. cleaned throttle body

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sat May 13, 2006 3:07 pm

Thanks for the info. I would need to run through the thread and count again, but I think that is 3 EGR valves to 5 or 6 EGR flow control valves.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Tue May 16, 2006 7:02 pm

KJMedic wrote:
Got Jeep back today. Here are the nos. for EGR valve.

5166555AB Valve
5142815AA Gasket-EGR Valve.

This is according to the Invoice.

This was originally posted on another thread, just trying to keep these organized. So far it looks like 5 of the EGR (5166555AB) and 5 of the EGR flow control "butterfly" valve (5142799AA) Anybody else with part numbers from an EGR related failure?

irunmiles · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 9:08 am

Had part number 5166555AB EGR valve, and the gasket installed this week under warranty. 18,400 miles.

valkraider · **Posted:** Sun May 21, 2006 8:20 pm

I have the buzzing now as well. Started yesterday, a couple weeks after my CEL and P0401 code...

It is coming from right here

RFCRD · **Posted:** Sun May 21, 2006 8:32 pm

When you talk about the "buzz" do you mean the high pitch humm that last @ 5 seconds after you shut the motor off? Does it goe away with a bit of a clicking sound?

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun May 21, 2006 8:35 pm

RFCRD wrote:

When you talk about the "buzz" do you mean the high pitch humm that last @ 5 seconds after you shut the motor off? Does it goe away with a bit of a clicking sound?

Have the same thing, but havent noticed a clicking sound.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Sun May 21, 2006 9:03 pm

oldnavy wrote:

RFCRD wrote:

When you talk about the "buzz" do you mean the high pitch humm that last @ 5 seconds after you shut the motor off? Does it goe away with a bit of a clicking sound?

Have the same thing, but havent noticed a clicking sound.

The clicking could also be described as a soft "pop." I assume it's normal, had it since day 1. When I've had the hose off, the throttle valve is wide open. I believe it closes when then the key is turned off to help choke and stall the engine, then motors back open. The high pitch is probably a small electric servo motor running normally. If it turns to a buzz, I could see it being the servo motor giving up the ghost.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sun May 21, 2006 10:55 pm

A while back I took the hose off the inlet of the EGR flow control to see what I could see. It was wide open. Turned the key to the on position, but did not start the engine - still open. Turned the key off and the valve closed fully for about five seconds and then opened up. While closed it did make a hum, but it was not something you would hear from inside the Jeep - at least not with my ears. With the key off I moved the valve by hand and it would return to the open positon on its own. Apparently spring loaded as there was no hum while it moved open. The manual has this thing drawn as a solenoid, and I think it is. Solenoids will hum. They will buzz and chatter if not allowed to reach full stroke. When it gets loud enough to hear inside the Jeep, I'd bet the butterfly is bound up. I intend to keep an eye on mine and see how freely it operates. If it gets sticky, I'm going to try penetrant or something to break it loose. I don't think there is a sensor incorporated into this thing. There aren't enough wires going to it, and the schematic doesn't show a sensor in conjunction with it.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun May 21, 2006 10:58 pm

You know I don't remember it doing it while I had the check engine light, just after. I couldn't remember it doing it before but the wife says it did, till about the time the CEL lit the dash. Maybe it is normal.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Sun May 21, 2006 11:08 pm

I listen to mine every night after I get home from work. Scared me the first time, now I'm used to it. It's the shut-down flap to keep the motor from jerking when you shut off. More useless, expensive stuff added to sell a diesel to average Joe/Jane.

valkraider · **Posted:** Mon May 22, 2006 12:04 am

No, this is a very loud buzzing. It just started yesterday, never having done it before. It is very lound and can be heard from more than 10 feet away from the vehicle.

When you turn off the engine, it cycles the noise on and off for about 20 seconds. Very loudly, like a gear trying to turn with broken teeth...

It also happens any time the ignition is turned on, even without the engine running. Only then it happens non-stop, constant grinding buzzing sound.

It is not a normal noise.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Mon May 22, 2006 12:19 am

valkraider wrote:

No, this is a very loud buzzing. It just started yesterday, never having done it before. It is very lound and can be heard from more than 10 feet away from the vehicle.

When you turn off the engine, it cycles the noise on and off for about 20 seconds. Very loudly, like a gear trying to turn with broken teeth...

It also happens any time the ignition is turned on, even without the engine running. Only then it happens non-stop, constant grinding buzzing sound.

It is not a normal noise.

Uh oh. That sounds like what my friend in TX described, before the beast started throwing codes and they ended up replacing the mixing valve, EGR, and turbo.

tired_old_dave · **Joined:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 3:45 pm **Posts:** 79

"Uh oh. That sounds like what my friend in TX described, before the beast started throwing codes and they ended up replacing the mixing valve, EGR, and turbo."

Did I miss a previous post about your friends turbo being replaced? Is this 0w40/5w40 going past the turbo seal. One post somewhere dropped a turbo update/change. And another post mentioned 15w40 kept a ford? intake clean. I believe your provent and rotella 5w40 has kept your intake clean. Bottomline, should some of us - more than normal - expect turbo problems (turbo seal probems?) in addition to everything else?

oldnavy · **Posted:** Mon May 22, 2006 10:08 am

Someone needs to start a poll and have it as a sticky with a selection of problems the members are having and miles on the unit and type of driving such as heavy throttle useage, including off roading or towing. Things like EGR Failure, EGR Flow Control Valve failure, tranny failure, general tranny problems like jerking or poor shifting, suspension problems, brake problems, etc.

Seems to me that only a small number of folks are having any problems with their CRD, but are being very vocal. However I would like to know for sure before making any real decission on the reliability of the CRD and it's drive train. I lean toward the posibility of not enough tranny for the torque of engine at low RPM's, when sudden heavy throttle is applied at low speeds, and/or slow speed with TC locked up when hammered.

Ian Wendt · **Joined:** Sat May 20, 2006 2:08 am **Posts:** 15

Oldnavy, I hope you're right. If you're not, then it would be really stupid of me to buy a CRD. Very frequently, it will be the small percentage of people with problems that voice their issues online and elsewhere. For every person that buys a Liberty CRD and takes it off-roading, gives it lifts and otherwise modifies and runs it hard, there's atleast two soccer moms.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Mon May 22, 2006 11:42 am

Ian Wendt wrote:

Oldnavy, I hope you're right. If you're not, then it would be really stupid of me to buy a CRD. Very frequently, it will be the small percentage of people with problems that voice their issues online and elsewhere. For every person that buys a Liberty CRD and takes it off-roading, gives it lifts and otherwise modifies and runs it hard, there's atleast two soccer moms.

That is what ours is, soccer grandma car.

vtdog · **Joined:** Fri Sep 30, 2005 11:27 am **Posts:** 640

My personal experience has been positive. In 25k plus miles, no repairs beyond maint other than EGR (at 10k) and reflash at 25k. I turn the key and it runs. I am now getting 26+mpg @ 75mph. It ain't Jetta TDI mileage, but it sure beats the 17 I got with my XTERRA.

As for problems at 65k miles. I don't think anyone has that kind of miles on their CRD yet. We will just have to see what happens. I have extended warranty so its DCX's problem.

valkraider · **Posted:** Mon May 22, 2006 2:56 pm

Goglio704 wrote:

I searched for 5142799AA on this forum and found about 4 mentions of it being replaced during an EGR failure event. That part number as far as I can tell is for the "EGR flow control valve." This part is also known as an anti shudder valve, anti run on valve, throttle body (to some dealers), and probably some other names as well. I've looked it up on two different online mopar parts sites. One called it an EGR valve, one called it an intake throttle! Did anybody have an EGR failure that didn't involve replacing this part? The 5142799AA is not really the EGR valve, it is related but it is a separate piece. Has anybody had to have the actual EGR replaced? Please let me know a part number if you have one. I'm trying to figure out how many of the "EGR valve" failures are actually the "EGR flow control valve." Any help would be appreciated.

Got the call from the dealership.

They are replacing both. I don't have part numbers yet - I will get them when I pick it up.

The EGR valve (which was the cause of the the P0401 code,) is addressed by a TSB so they replaced the EGR valve and did a software update. (Although I had also had the 18-009-06 TSB done previously - so I don't know which one supercedes which). They had the EGR valve in stock, and replaced it already this morning.

The lound buzzing noise was coming from - what they call the "throttle body", which I am guessing is the EGR Flow Control Valve mentioned above. They did not have this part, and it is being shipped in for replacement tomorrow.

-VR

Other than part 5142799AA what EGR parts are replaced?

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