Perforated Block??

flman · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2015 1:00 pm

amslube wrote:

Condolences are appreciated....almost like losing a family member or a good friend!

I would have tried to mig weld it in an H pattern so it would have 2 vertical lines just outside of the crack to possibly stop the crack and another horizontal weld though the crack. So did you pull the engine with the tranny attached, or split, and how long did it take?

diesellady · **Joined:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:06 pm **Posts:** 15

I'm up for trying anything if someone is willing. I can't afford another diesel at this moment and forget gas. "( So sad.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2015 3:52 pm

diesellady wrote:

I'm up for trying anything if someone is willing. I can't afford another diesel at this moment and forget gas. "( So sad.

Where are you located?

diesellady · **Joined:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:06 pm **Posts:** 15

Southern Calif. "( High desert.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2015 11:09 pm

I was trying to source a cheap block a guy had laying around for one of you poor souls, but he threw it away, along with most of the rest of the blown engine :banghead:

It might have vented a rod I guess :5SHOTS:

There was a guy who had a free one on here a while back. You might start a post looking for a cheap block, versus trying to repair one and chance doing it twice, because they seriously suck to pull.

diesellady · **Joined:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:06 pm **Posts:** 15

Thanks. I will put the word out,,,,, as soon as I get over the greif I feel about this issue. I was so glad to have the darn timing belt done and over with, and now this. OMG, I thought I was going to have this little jeep for a life time of use. Now I know what it feels like to have the dreaded 053 block. But totally unexpected. "( :dead:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:00 am

Anytime, I sure hope none of my coolant eaters are from a crack in the block. I'm pretty sure I'm 4 for 4 CRD's that all have bad head gaskets, or maybe even a cracked block on one of them. Just make sure it gets ARP head studs if you get back in there, or you'll be back in there again...

flman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:04 am

diesellady wrote:

Thanks. I will put the word out,,,,, as soon as I get over the greif I feel about this issue. I was so glad to have the darn timing belt done and over with, and now this. OMG, I thought I was going to have this little jeep for a life time of use. Now I know what it feels like to have the dreaded 053 block. But totally unexpected. "( :dead:

At this point, just leave the rad cap loose and drive it, I would not scrap a vehicle over a small leak, just buy a couple bottles of HOAT and fill it when the coolant light goes on.

diesellady · **Joined:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:06 pm **Posts:** 15

Mine is not a small leak. It's loosing 2.5 to 2 inches of coolant daily. flowing down and over the top of the bellhousing and down both sides. I scared to actually pull the engine and see how bad the crack may be. I assume at this point I have the same problem as I could not find any other explanation for my leak. "( What it Hoat?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 12:13 pm

HOAT is the coolant. With the size of the leak and the location, maybe these are good candidates for JB weld or SteelStik... Something of a bonding agent has to exist that can paste over this area nice and thick and protect it and keep the water in.

amslube · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:15 pm

Engine back in and running fine. Initial runs today and no coolant loss but only time will tell how the JB Weld will hold up. Went car shopping today. CRD will become my beater, wife gets new vehicle, my Ram 2500 will feel neglected!

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:51 pm

Dang....engine pulled on March 8th.....patched with JB Weld on March 9th.....back in and running on March 10th. Thats a hell of a turn around. I gotta say....thats awesome. I hope the JB Weld solves the problem long term.

Jim

diesellady · **Joined:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:06 pm **Posts:** 15

OMG, I should fly you out to Cali and pay you to do mine. Your an animal!!! Took me 2 days to do the timing belt, I feel like a slug. :roll:

Question,,,,, do you think if I dropped the trans I would have enought room to access the crack that way? I have done that a few times and it isn't that big of a deal. If I could get access to the rear then I could jb well it up that way and save a whole bunch of work. Thanks for all the pics and info you have given on here. ")

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:29 pm

Holy shitt on toast Batman! WOW that is a quick turnaround on the engine, I'm about got whiplash from that!

You really should look into going on the road and helping that lass in Californiastan with her CRD if you can roar it that quick. Did you need / have a lift to do that, or just a shop crane?

And I thought I was fast doing the timing belt and water pump in about 3 hours (my record is 2 hrs 25 min from hood open to hood closed) and 8-9 hours average for the rockers and head studs. Dude, you are a machine.

amslube · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 11:44 pm

I have a nice large heated garage to work in and a good selection of tools. Used a lift on wheels that I borrowed from a buddy of mine. Engine lifted out easily without removing the hood. It really wasn't that difficult, just time and patience a few minor scrapes and scratches. I was surprised how easily it went back in, especially mating the engine and trans. Just hope all the effort was worth it. Being retired does have its benefits.

Diesellady:
I don't feel that area is easily accessible by just removing the trans. Need room to see, clean, inspect, and grind a bit to prep for the JB Weld. So much easier with the engine out. It took me about 25 work hours to do the head gasket a couple of weeks ago. Much less time to pull the engine...but I've become very familiar with removing a lot of the same stuff.

My wife has a minor mishap with the CRD the day before I started the job...someone cut sharply if front of her then stopped. She bumped him pretty hard. When she got home all I noticed was the hood wasn't closed tightly and had to adjust the latch downward. When taking the front end apart, the steel framing behind the bumper was pushed in about 2". The electric fan just slightly bent the A/C condenser. Pulled that back to shape this morning after getting the engine in and running. Hooked a chain around a power pole in the driveway, connected to the trailer hitch. Put a chain around the part that needed to be pulled and hooked to my 1943 Farmall H tractor. A few short tugs and all was well.

diesellady · **Joined:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:06 pm **Posts:** 15

LOL, looks just like mine. Same color and all. Well it was worth the thought of doing the trans to get at it. How much room do you think there is. maybe if I proped up the engine so the back was tilting down a bit. I really don't want to pull that engine. It's so much harder when you have a learning curve.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Mar 11, 2015 7:29 am

diesellady wrote:

LOL, looks just like mine. Same color and all. Well it was worth the thought of doing the trans to get at it. How much room do you think there is. maybe if I proped up the engine so the back was tilting down a bit. I really don't want to pull that engine. It's so much harder when you have a learning curve.

Nothing is hard when you have the proper determination. The problem is costs, you may need to buy what you need and don't have. I haven't pulled out crd's engine, but it can't be such a big deal, once you took out the bolts from the bell housing, you're half there. Id also suggest waiting a bit to see how amslube's project goes, and if jb weld won't work, maybe weld that H pattern flman suggested few posts back.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Mar 11, 2015 7:32 am

amslube wrote:

I have a nice large heated garage to work in and a good selection of tools. Used a lift on wheels that I borrowed from a buddy of mine. Engine lifted out easily without removing the hood. It really wasn't that difficult, just time and patience a few minor scrapes and scratches. I was surprised how easily it went back in, especially mating the engine and trans. Just hope all the effort was worth it. Being retired does have its benefits.

Diesellady:
I don't feel that area is easily accessible by just removing the trans. Need room to see, clean, inspect, and grind a bit to prep for the JB Weld. So much easier with the engine out. It took me about 25 work hours to do the head gasket a couple of weeks ago. Much less time to pull the engine...but I've become very familiar with removing a lot of the same stuff.

My wife has a minor mishap with the CRD the day before I started the job...someone cut sharply if front of her then stopped. She bumped him pretty hard. When she got home all I noticed was the hood wasn't closed tightly and had to adjust the latch downward. When taking the front end apart, the steel framing behind the bumper was pushed in about 2". The electric fan just slightly bent the A/C condenser. Pulled that back to shape this morning after getting the engine in and running. Hooked a chain around a power pole in the driveway, connected to the trailer hitch. Put a chain around the part that needed to be pulled and hooked to my 1943 Farmall H tractor. A few short tugs and all was well.

I honestly hope it will last, even though, also honestly, I'm a bit pessimistic knowing how long that crack is... Good luck and keep us posted please.

Btw, you wash that tractor? Looks sparkling new...

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Mar 11, 2015 11:08 am

I don't think there would be enough room but....once the trans is out you can loosen the buts on the engine mounts and that may allow the engine to drop down further in the rear. Before you do that be sure to remove the fan/shroud or you risk a fan blade in the radiator.

The Farmall was purchased used by my Dad in 1946 when he was discharged from the Army after spending time in Europe during WWll. It was our workhorse on the family farm until 1967 when small family dairy farms could no longer survive. It remained on the idled farm used for getting firewood and other small chores. I took it under my wing about 10 years ago and only started it up several times a year just to keep lubes circulated. Last winter, one of my retirement projects, I decided to do a restoration on the old Farmall. I finished up everything except the wheels which I completed this winter. It didn't need much as far as parts, mostly transmission seals...engine was fine and a lot of cleaning and some body work. Talk about overkill built into these things!! Nothing like today.

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:41 pm

Diesellady:
Your amount of leakage and where you see the leak unfortunately sounds exactly like my issue. My wife would drive 50 miles and it would be down a pint or more...with the radiator cap loose so no pressure would build.

Made a deal on a new vehicle today but I am keeping the CRD for now to see if and how long the JB Weld holds up. May continue to search for a used block. This thing just runs too good to scrap it!

Perforated Block??

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