The Saga of the Silver Stallion: CRD resurrection thread

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:03 pm

Mike92104 wrote:

I'm concerned about the amount of foamy oil you're finding in everything. It sounds like every cubic inch of the engine, cooling system, intercooler, etc are filled to the brim. How did this much fluid (whatever it is) end up in everything?

Technically, not in cooling system.

Looks like head gasket leak to oil system. CCV pulled oil from engine, ran through turbo, intercooler, and into throttle body (backflowing into EGR on way to intake). Pulled into engine via intake.

Looks like turbo died due to coolant soaked oil unable to handle the high rpm and lubrication requirements with this crap oil.

Well, I was told that there was a known head gasket issue. The volume would be consistent, I think, with coolant dumping into the oil. The oil pan I had underneath actually overflowed last night after I went to bed... I came home today to a 2' diameter spill at the pan. That is gonna be a pain in the booty to clean.

So, the cams are off, and the valve body is exposed. (note: yes, I use the wrong terms occasionally, but I use the right tools the right way)

We will see what happens tomorrow or Thursday when I have a few more hours to put in. Is it a cracked head or a failed gasket. Inquiring minds want to know! Like ME!

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:56 pm

Rixram wrote:

Mike92104 wrote:

Rixram wrote:

I am very thankful to be wrong on this one. I removed the fuel injectors, and then I could turn the engine. some of the cylinders were full of the foam oil, and could not compress.

I have the cam locks in place, in the fuel timing mark is aligned.

Is the crank mark at 3 o'clock?

Cams locks are in the correct locations. The marks on the wheels do not line up exactly, indicating the 100k job was done.

But is the mark on the crank sproket at the 3 o'clock position? There is a witness mark on the crank sprocket that does actually mean something. The marks on the cam sprockets don't mean anything and should be disregarded.

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

Lots of issues to deal with here...

About all I can say after consulting with my Amsoil rep - who is a chemical engineer - on the very same subject of using a cheap oil to flush out the engine is... USE AN ENGINE OIL RATED FOR DIESEL ENGINES.

When you finally button your engine back up again, use one of these instead of the crap O.E. engine thermostat unit...

Rixram · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 7:44 am

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK wrote:

Lots of issues to deal with here...

About all I can say after consulting with my Amsoil rep - who is a chemical engineer - on the very same subject of using a cheap oil to flush out the engine is... USE AN ENGINE OIL RATED FOR DIESEL ENGINES.

When you finally button your engine back up again, use one of these instead of the crap O.E. engine thermostat unit...

I'll just add an in-line t-stat. I've used one for 4 yours on my other CRD, and it works fine. Not to mention is simple and easy.

KC-CRD · **Joined:** Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:20 pm **Posts:** 47

I'll echo the consensus to use CRD rated oil for the flush. You could save $5 a gallon using Rotella T instead of T6, but the CRD calls for synthetic and is it worth the risk for < $10 savings. For the other additives, just no.... I'd shorten the change interval for the first 2-3 changes. If you are really concerned about the crud, pull the oil pan and clean it. You might get some idea on bearing condition (if they are REALLY lose). You could also pull a main bearing and inspect, but I personally wouldn't do that unless I planned to replace them all. Once the motor is running I think you'll get a pretty good picture of the lower end if you put an oil gauge on it and compare cold idle to warm idle pressure.

On the water pump, since you're pulling the head you might as well change the pump. It's included in the ID parts kit. The only reason I wouldn't change it with a timing belt service is if you don't want to pull the cam gears. Then you should be good for another 80-100k miles.

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

[/quote] I'll just add an in-line t-stat. I've used one for 4 yours on my other CRD, and it works fine. Not to mention is simple and easy.[/quote]

Any head gasket issues with your other CRD, and did you tow with the other CRD? Are you going to tow with this CRD?

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

KC-CRD wrote:

I'll echo the consensus to use CRD rated oil for the flush. You could save $5 a gallon using Rotella T instead of T6, but the CRD calls for synthetic and is it worth the risk for < $10 savings. For the other additives, just no.... I'd shorten the change interval for the first 2-3 changes. If you are really concerned about the crud, pull the oil pan and clean it. You might get some idea on bearing condition (if they are REALLY lose). You could also pull a main bearing and inspect, but I personally wouldn't do that unless I planned to replace them all. Once the motor is running I think you'll get a pretty good picture of the lower end if you put an oil gauge on it and compare cold idle to warm idle pressure.

On the water pump, since you're pulling the head you might as well change the pump. It's included in the ID parts kit. The only reason I wouldn't change it with a timing belt service is if you don't want to pull the cam gears. Then you should be good for another 80-100k miles.

You do not have to use "CRD" rated oil for flushing, just as long as you change to MS-10725 rated oil within about 200 miles. You simply need engine oil rated for diesel engines to handle to soot for that short period of time.

Rixram · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:05 pm

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK wrote:

Quote:

I'll just add an in-line t-stat. I've used one for 4 yours on my other CRD, and it works fine. Not to mention is simple and easy.

Any head gasket issues with your other CRD, and did you tow with the other CRD? Are you going to tow with this CRD?

No head gasket issues on Tractor (existing CRD), and my towing needs have reduced, anyway. I sold that boat.

Rixram · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:13 pm

http://imgur.com/a/U6JRo

Okay folks. I got the valve body off (hard to bring myself to call it a "head" on a DOHC design).

I do believe that what we have here is a CRD that was literally killed because of the darn dipstick.

Huh? you ask?

We all know that the dipstick reads high. When full on the 'stick, it is 3/4 qt overfull.

This was a company car. I think they kept adding oil everytime it got low. And at the end, I suspect someone threw a tember-tantrum, and overfilled the f**k out of it. Or, there is a coolant leak in the oil cooler (need to investigate that)... Remember that the intercooler was FULL of oil. The CCV vent was globbed with it, right from the CCV straight into the turbo. The Intercooler hoses are coated. There was so darn much oil that it drained (remember that the engine doesn't sit level in the engine bay, but sits "bow high") via the intake into the rear cylinders. You can see that in one pic, the cylinder #4 had about an inch of oil in it.

I suspect the wrong oil type was used, too. I'm going to get an oil analysis done to confirm.

When I got the head off and investigated, I was laughing like a mad-man at all this...

But, yeah, a head gasket is still in order. And ARP studs. And a turbo, and probably a Weeks kit, if that stage 2 part is getting some better quality control on it. And, other stuff...

user113 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 25, 2015 1:54 am

I don't think the dipstick issue directly lead to oil pooling in the cylinders. It could never have accumulated even at idle RPM and there's no way that engine would have ever ran with that much oil in the cylinders due to hydrolock. It must have seeped in AFTER it stopped running. My guess is that somebody was just dumping waste fluids into the non-running engine as a means of disposal.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:31 am

Or maybe the turbo carved its was into the oil gallery (or does it come past the toasted bearing also?, I forget), sucked down a couple of quarts, and then the FCV actually did its job and stopped the engine?

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 28, 2015 1:41 pm

28SEP15 Update:

Over the weekend, I bought a concrete mixing tray. I have the head and the intake soaking in 5 gallons of diesel fuel. It is taking all the <4 letter word for crapola> off.

So far, I do not see any cracks in the head. All the valves appear straight.

I have ordered some oil analysis kits from blackstone to see if there is any coolant in the oil.

I took a much closer look at the head gasket in daylight, and it doesn't have any clear-cut answers.

This thing may have been genuinely oiled to death.

Currently waiting on some paperwork, oil analysis kits, and searching for a shop to test the Bosch injectors.

lars0247 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:09 am **Posts:** 98

I highly recommend getting the head pressure tested.

I was about to reinstall mine when I could see no cracks, just assuming it was the head gasket causing my slow coolant leak.

A mechanic friend of mine strongly urged me to get it tested.

I did, and cracks were found in the intake valve pockets.

I bought a "low-mileage" test engine head from the VM Specialist to replace mine.

Rixram · **Posted:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 12:04 pm

Update:
Oil analysis conducted. Wayer/coolant made for under 2% of the oil. Iron was high.

Turbo acquired.
Boost hoses on the way
Looking for 2 spare ARP studs: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=83148&p=878546#p878546

As soon as titles are straight, will begin reassembly.

In meantime, I will refill cylinders with diesel to make sure the rings are not sticking. I have no indicators that they are, but exercising caution.

Rixram · **Posted:** Sat Nov 21, 2015 7:41 pm

all the parts are in, and we've started reassembling.
Racer came over, and with my 11 y/o son supervising, we made great progress.

And we started planning for the next one as well.

Rixram · **Posted:** Wed Dec 23, 2015 9:44 am

Got it running 3 weeks ago, but there was a coolant to oil leak.
As I'd just replaced the head gasket and ARP studded it, I hoped that wouldn't be the source. I, instead, looked to the oil cooler. Being that I lack tooling to fabricate a proper test rig, I had a local mechanic test it. Two weeks later, he got to it. Oil cooler tested bad (hooray?), and replacement arrived yesterday. With xmas here, I will likely get to it next week. I suspect that visitors here would appreciate more holiday related activities.

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Dec 23, 2015 9:55 am

I can attest that Captain Ricks CRD runs smooth now.

Softest and smoothest sounding CRD I've heard.

thibs56 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 23, 2016 12:12 pm **Posts:** 8

I bought the jeep. Never owned a CRD before. Just got the head back from the machine shop. It looks like a rusted out freeze plug was the problem. Won't know until the motor is put back together . Don't know if this a common problem, Just passing it along.

Rixram · **Posted:** Sun Jul 17, 2016 12:14 pm

thibs56 wrote:

I bought the jeep. Never owned a CRD before. Just got the head back from the machine shop. It looks like a rusted out freeze plug was the problem. Won't know until the motor is put back together . Don't know if this a common problem, Just passing it along.

If that is all the Last Detail was, then bully for you!
I've had my fun with that one. Good luck.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:11 pm

If it was running, why was the head pulled again?

The Saga of the Silver Stallion: CRD resurrection thread

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