Is my CRD dead? - solved

darinb · **Posted:** Wed Mar 18, 2020 10:28 am

Can anyone give me any tips on how to get the valve cover on? I made the studs and used 3 of them toward the front to try and line it up but I was struggling. I was having to angle the valve cover too much due to clearance at the rear and it was hard to get it onto the studs. I think I may have made them a little too long.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 18, 2020 10:09 pm

You might be able to use shorter studs I dont know since I dont know how much the ones you made would protrude from the valvecover. It is a little difficult to get the rear portion of valvecover to clear the lip of the firewall. I took some wire and rubber tubing and twisted small holes in wire ends after sliding tubing over it and bolted two wires in a criss cross near the back to hold and use the oil filler tube in front and tilt back down more to get it to clear and still line up with the guide studs. You may also grind a notch in the top of studs to use a screwdriver to remove them. I have also put the cover on without the wires etc just easier by myself with them. All I can really say to try is screw in the studs a little further or make them shorter if you get it on and they dont protrude enough you must remove it and extend the studs more and put them in the center rows so they only have to protrude through the least thick area of valve cover.

darinb · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:18 am

Ok so I’m moving along with the rebuild. I used 2 small studs in the center to get the valve cover on. Wrecked the old valve cover gasket and had to order another one lol. Took it on and off a few times to get comfortable with it. Now I’m on the timing part. My question is... the videos I’ve watched the people torque the cam sprockets then tension everything down. But it seems to me that it would make more sense to tension everything down with the cam sprockets loose then torque them at the end. Is there a reason I’m missing that this would be a bad idea? Because the main point is to be sure the cams and crank are in sync when the pins are inserted. Also is the timing actually necessary for the injection pump? I know it’s not for the water pump.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2020 12:32 pm

Yes. You should set the timing belt before tightening the sprockets.
Be sure to use a counter hold on the sprocket. Don’t rely on the cam pins to hold. They are not strong enough.
Timing the injection pump is debatable. But there’s a timing mark so why not do it.

Be careful tightening the timing belt tensioner. It’s easy to pull out the threads. But if it happens it’s a fairly easy fix with a new helicoil.
When it happened to me I put in a new helicoil and made a stud instead of using a bolt.

darinb · **Posted:** Thu Apr 09, 2020 9:02 pm

I torqued the cam sprockets last and aligned the injection pump and ITS RUNNING!!!!

Thanks for all the help I’ve got it all back together and my wife is so happy it’s not just a driveway decoration.

Now I’m back to my original issue lol which is kinda minor. Frequently The Jeep will crank 3 times and not start. If I unplug the top wiring harness to the ECU then plug it back in it will crank multiple times until it starts. It didn’t seem to do this when I first started it up after timing without the accessories plugged in. Is there a sensor that could cause this issue ? I’m trying to remember everything that I plugged up after timing it.. alternator, coolant sensor, headlights, fan, airbox.... this issue has been happening to me for at least 50k miles. If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate the input.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Apr 09, 2020 9:38 pm

darinb wrote:

I torqued the cam sprockets last and aligned the injection pump and ITS RUNNING!!!!
Thanks for all the help I’ve got it all back together and my wife is so happy it’s not just a driveway decoration.
Now I’m back to my original issue lol which is kinda minor. Frequently The Jeep will crank 3 times and not start. If I unplug the top wiring harness to the ECU then plug it back in it will crank multiple times until it starts. It didn’t seem to do this when I first started it up after timing without the accessories plugged in. Is there a sensor that could cause this issue ? I’m trying to remember everything that I plugged up after timing it.. alternator, coolant sensor, headlights, fan, airbox.... this issue has been happening to me for at least 50k miles. If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate the input.

Have you replaced the crank sensor?
Have you scanned it, do you have any stored codes? Might be helpful in diagnosing the issue.

darinb · **Posted:** Sat Apr 11, 2020 12:53 pm

Yes I did replace the crank sensor with an OEM about 10k miles ago. I’ve been driving it a little bit. When I started the rebuild it was throwing 12 codes lol. Now it’s only showing 2 codes p0102 and p0610. I did the DIY ECM flash with the stock with egr delete software a year or so ago. I thought about reflashing. I didn’t think I would get the p0102 if it had egr delete software. It seems to be running pretty good except for the acceleration and moderate black smoke from the exhaust. I read some other posts and I’m wondering if it could be the turbo vane or a vacuum issue.

Update: I just reflashed with nicks 811 tune and same codes

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 11, 2020 2:09 pm

darinb wrote:

Yes I did replace the crank sensor with an OEM about 10k miles ago. I’ve been driving it a little bit. When I started the rebuild it was throwing 12 codes lol. Now it’s only showing 2 codes p0102 and p0610. I did the DIY ECM flash with the stock with egr delete software a year or so ago. I thought about reflashing. I didn’t think I would get the p0102 if it had egr delete software. It seems to be running pretty good except for the acceleration and moderate black smoke from the exhaust. I read some other posts and

I’m wondering if it could be the turbo vane or a vacuum issue.

Vane or turbo vane vacuum control issues will not cause your starting issues, but either one could certainly be causing black smoke when accelerating.
Black smoke is a sure sign of not enough boost for a given fuel injection rate or an over fueling issue or a combination of both.
Installing a boost gauge or using an application like *Torque Pro in conjunction with an ELM 327 OBDII BlueTooth adaptor to monitor engine control parameters in real time would be a good diagnostic tool to help diagnose your problem.
You can check all your vacuum hoses going to and from the turbo vane vacuum controls and especially the one going over to the turbo van controller diaphragm. Some have found issues with this plastic pipe of being collapsed from the heat or having a small hole or crack in it.
You can mechanically exercise the turbo vanes manually to check for full travel or use a hand vacuum pump to test for full movement.

See this thread/post with pictures for full description on how to temporary bypass turbo vacuum solenoid for testing purposes.
> viewtopic.php?p=934147#p934147

*Torque Pro is a vehicle / car performance / diagnostics tool and scanner that uses an OBD II Bluetooth adapter to connect to your OBD2 engine management
:google:

darinb · **Posted:** Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:07 am

For now the starting issue has stopped for some reason. Not sure why but glad it’s starting fine. I flashed the Ecu with nicks 811 maybe that changed something. I did actually replace the vacuum solenoid back before rebuild after reading the post about it. I just now bypassed it again and videoed the smoke behind me going down the road while it was bypassed so that should eliminate the solenoid. My wife’s wrangler has an android in-dash unit and the Bluetooth obd reader stays plugged in all the time. I just took the Bluetooth obd reader out of her Jeep and put it in the liberty CRD and took a pic of the readings. Here’s a link to a folder with the OBD data, smoke behind the vehicle and the engine running (EHM disconnected because I’m waiting for provent to arrive)

Oh and I broke the plastic line going to the turbo vane a while back and replaced it with a rubber vacuum line. It doesn’t appear to be collapsing. Maybe I should order an OEM line just to be sure.

I just checked the turbo vane with the method on this post viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61676&start=20 and I can feel it moving up and down when I disconnect the vacuum line.

Would a bad injector cause this? I haven’t had them tested. Cylinder 4 was pretty caked in oil during disassembly. It was the cylinder that wasn’t firing though which was the reason for rebuild. I think the valve was sticking.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Apr 12, 2020 1:34 pm

darinb wrote:

Maybe I should order an OEM line just to be sure.

As to the vacuum line, don't use the plastic OEM type, get some silicone vacuum hose and replace ALL the vacuum hoses with the silicone hose. Much better, won't colaspe or crack and is also a little larger inside diameter which will actually help turbo response time. see picture.

darinb wrote:

Would a bad injector cause this?

A bad injector could definitely cause overfueling issues.

More on silicone vacuum hoses

darinb · **Posted:** Sun Apr 12, 2020 1:46 pm

Ok thanks I’ll order some of the silicone hose.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 14, 2020 12:15 am

I didn't go back and read everything but if you haven't already check the boost hoses for leaks or cracks etc or loose clamps. The classic cause of black smoke and sometimes a little evasive to detection.

Glad you got it back on the road and the wifey is happy. I know my wife is happy when one makes it back out of the garage under its own power !!

darinb · **Posted:** Tue Apr 14, 2020 9:17 am

I just realized I forgot to post the link of it running and the smoke. Also the data from the app. Do the vacuum numbers look normal?
Here it is: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmKKM7MzPjNogdt3MLm ... g?e=bYPpcw

I have Samco hoses installed and I didn't see any cracks when I removed them during rebuild. I'll give them a look again.

I also had a gunky buildup in cylinder 4 when i tore it down that I think maybe where the smoke is originating.

I ordered a new fuel head (having trouble with priming pressure)... a used injector (seller said it was tested and works).. silicone vacuum lines.. i am waiting for that to arrive. I'm hoping the injector on #4 cylinder is the culprit.

I'm thinking that the buildup of oil in the cylinder 4 means that there's too much fuel and it's not all burning off am I correct about that? If so I guess the lack of pressure at the fuel bleeder wouldn't be the cause of the smoke.

Also going to be installing fan belt tensioner and alternator clutch pulley cause the belt looks a little shaky and it's been 100k+ since they.ve been done

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Apr 14, 2020 12:47 pm

darinb wrote:

I just realized I forgot to post the link of it running and the smoke. Also the data from the app. Do the vacuum numbers look normal?
Here it is: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmKKM7MzPjNogdt3MLm ... g?e=bYPpcw
I have Samco hoses installed and I didn't see any cracks when I removed them during rebuild. I'll give them a look again.
I also had a gunky buildup in cylinder 4 when i tore it down that I think maybe where the smoke is originating.
I ordered a new fuel head (having trouble with priming pressure)... a used injector (seller said it was tested and works).. silicone vacuum lines.. i am waiting for that to arrive. I'm hoping the injector on #4 cylinder is the culprit.
I'm thinking that the buildup of oil in the cylinder 4 means that there's too much fuel and it's not all burning off am I correct about that? If so I guess the lack of pressure at the fuel bleeder wouldn't be the cause of the smoke.

Quote:

Correct, lack of fuel pressure at the fuel filter head will not cause excessive smoke, if anything it will cause lean fuel condition at the CP3 pump.

Also going to be installing fan belt tensioner and alternator clutch pulley cause the belt looks a little shaky and it's been 100k+ since they.ve been done

Quote:

Good items to replace!

darinb · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2020 8:35 pm

Well this is frustrating. I installed the injector, new fuel head (fuel pressure is back when priming) and no change.. running pretty good just a lot of smoke on acceleration under load. If I rev the engine in the driveway it doesn’t smoke much. Still getting codes 0610 and 0102. I cleaned the MAP sensor, checked for leaks in the samcos. The turbo still seems to have some lag compared to how it drove when it had less than 100k on it. I’m thinking of sticking a new aftermarket turbo on it to see if that helps... any ideas appreciated

If I drive it around rolling coal am I risking damage to the engine?

darinb · **Posted:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 9:21 am

I ordered a new MAP sensor (cleaned multiple times but haven't replaced in a while).... and ordered an injection flow return test kit. Running really smooth but still smoking at acceleration.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 19, 2020 7:58 am

Overfueling can cause high temp in cylinder and due to that other problems like overheating in general but generally it has to be a fairly major overfilling condition .

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 19, 2020 8:02 am

You can also have your turbo rebuilt/ upgraded. One of the members ( ? maybe Diesel Guy ) does it for a good price.

darinb · **Posted:** Mon Apr 20, 2020 10:51 am

Ohhh ok, thank you that makes sense. I think I'm going to refrain from driving it long distances or towing until I can figure out the smoke issue.

I just picked up a used OEM Garrett turbo on Ebay that has never been opened up and has around 100k miles on it. Seller says there is almost no play in the turbine. I'm gonna swap the turbo out and see if that changes anything. I like the idea of having an extra one around too. I put a new cartridge in the currently installed turbo so maybe I did something wrong idk. It turns fine with no play and I marked the housing and aligned it back the same way so I don't know what I could've done wrong. While I was rebuilding I also cleaned the turbo thoroughly with brake cleaner.

Silicone vacuum lines should be here today and hopefully the new map sensor will be here soon so I can throw it on.

darinb · **Posted:** Thu Apr 23, 2020 2:17 pm

So last night I installed the used turbo and the liberty runs like new again. For me the lack of air that was causing the black smoke appears to have been from the turbo not pushing enough air into the mix. My starting issue seems to be gone now. I was trying to start it at night and I saw a spark at the bolt that connects the Ecu to the frame. I guess the shop that replaced the Ecu didn’t get the bolts tightened up. I snugged the bolts down and starting is fine now. Makes me think those bolts help ground the Ecu but not sure. Thanks again to everyone that helped me through this journey

Is my CRD dead? - solved

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