It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

dieseldawg · **Posted:** Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:47 pm

I put in the module for the 34 gallon tank. My gauge seems to be be as inaccurate as it was before the swap. It always stayed at Full for a while, then dropped really rapidly. I did index my new module counter-clockwise to the left of where the original was sitting. Usually when my gauge reads 1/2 tank, I can put 12 gallons in and a 1/4 tank is around 16 gallons.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:03 pm

dieseldawg wrote:

I put in the module for the 34 gallon tank. My gauge seems to be be as inaccurate as it was before the swap. It always stayed at Full for a while, then dropped really rapidly. I did index my new module counter-clockwise to the left of where the original was sitting. Usually when my gauge reads 1/2 tank, I can put 12 gallons in and a 1/4 tank is around 16 gallons.

To make sure I understand you (my cummins pump is on it's way :lol:

) it sounds like you left the index tab of the new pump on and now the pump is orintated different from the original one, right :?:

fastRob · **Posted:** Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:17 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

dieseldawg wrote:

I put in the module for the 34 gallon tank. My gauge seems to be be as inaccurate as it was before the swap. It always stayed at Full for a while, then dropped really rapidly. I did index my new module counter-clockwise to the left of where the original was sitting. Usually when my gauge reads 1/2 tank, I can put 12 gallons in and a 1/4 tank is around 16 gallons.

To make sure I understand you (my cummins pump is on it's way :lol:

) it sounds like you left the index tab of the new pump on and now the pump is orintated different from the original one, right :?:

Index tab still on mine.
I rotated mine to the right. The only things that matter are the float position in relation to the bottom of the tank and maybe the bumps on the botton of the tank holding the float up.
Remember, when the lift pump is compressed to fit into the tank the float could move too.
I bent my wire some.
The plastic could break, so be careful, be smaat, think about it.

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:37 pm

I oriented my tab to the left (counter clockwise)

crdjon · **Posted:** Fri Apr 25, 2008 7:54 am

This will grow.

2 wire transfer method suggested by gmctd will be used, many thanks

Hope these pics help. I tried to reduce the size of the photos coz my canon 5d shoots wonderfully large and detailed photos, that is if these tired old eyes of mine can get it right

Installed the in tank lift pump, I did have to add about 20 cm of wire into the 2 wires as the Gasser harness appears to be a little shorter (easy fixed), popped the hood to prime, pumped twice soft and gooey as usual, turned the ignition.... whiiirrrrrrr ..... whilst its pumping went under the hood the operate the manual pump, ROCK HARD.... electric powered viagra

. Started engine, instant response, checked for leaks (none found), warmed up and went for a run. Accelerated up a decent hill to speed limit

110 kmh no negative issues, woohoo.

More pull, no hesitation/stutter after very hard acceleration from the air fuel problem, just the typical transmission thing trying to lockup. (Suncoast and transgo will happen for this me thinks)

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:18 am

Good pics, Jon - show'n'tell rules! - easiest method is to move the Green\Or stripe wire (2nd from left in the right connector) from the '06 harness to same 2nd from left position in the '07 CRD harness

Add the other end and the Black ground wire to the tank module connector, with pin 1 being Black ground and pin 4 being Green\Orange stripe power

Also, you can edit your post: instead of the http file, copy the img file, and it will display the pic here after you paste it
Or, just use this form "[img]http...link....http[/img]" by typing in the first bracket in front of http, typing in the second bracket behind the second http in each link
Or, click on the [img] icon at the top of the page, click it again to close the argument

crdjon · **Posted:** Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:59 am

Thank you

Will get go dissasembling/assembling cables, Ill update my other message with pics of alteration as well after that.

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:06 am

WOW! I did not know that the KJ was available in a CRD for the 2007 Model year. You truely learn something new every day. How many of them were made?

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:08 am

Jon's upside down, like Crocodile Dundee..................

crdjon · **Posted:** Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:13 am

Well......, somebody had to buy the left overs

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:14 am

Scott Langohr wrote:

WOW! I did not know that the KJ was available in a CRD for the 2007 Model year. You truely learn something new every day. How many of them were made?

The rest of the world had diesel KJ's since their inception. Us in the good ole USA only got them in 05 and 06

They also had Diesel XJ's that we can only dream of :cry:

Ripster · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 5:32 pm

Last weekend it was in the 70's now it is snowing, but I turned on the heater and started the process.
On the 05, at least mine anyway, the plug was on the cross member that the front of the seats bolt to
all the way across. I unbolted them all across, and used the umbrella to hold the seat, while I looked
for the plug. I cut the padding, easier than trying to pull it all back, had enough trouble with the carpet
as it was.

Once done there was even a hole for a large screw for the ground.

And I got the see the disconnects everyone was talking about, thin needlenose
pliers squeeze down the red or green, and you have to turn them to see
the color, push in and off they come, snap right back on without any leaks.

Fired right up, nice hum, bleed out the system, that did not take long
and went for a ride, no leaks anywhere, used a jack to lower the tank,
backed the jeep up on ramps, and just stayed at it. Most time spent
on removing carpet and trying to see how much I needed to remove.
Thanks to the pioneers that got this going gmctd was a great help.
Many of the benefits will be noticed later, starts well, peace of mind
with it done now.

The following url will have the photos and wiring diagrams.

http://picasaweb.google.com/crdturbo/CRD

crdjon · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:37 am

More pics of in tank pump module install added to page 27

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 8:58 am

Excellent show - 'n' the resultant tell?

Ripster · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:28 pm

Well the prime pump is always firm, no soft push like it used to be when
there was air in the head. I had a good starting unit to begin with, but
now, its not as good as a TDI, but it starts quick everytime. Seems
to labor less after sitting and driving out of the driveway over night.
Well worth the $200 for parts.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:45 pm

crdjon wrote:

More pics of in tank pump module install added to page 27

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you :lol:

A picture is worth a thousand words so you've given me a whole dictionary

I didn't know there was more then one place to put the index taband was very confused about that and didn't really understand the green/red tab thing but now it's all very clear! My pump should be here before next weekend :wink:

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:50 pm

I've been trying to procure another Dodge module or several for more show'n'tell vis a vis the indexing anomaly - possibly switch the Dodge lift pump basket to the Jeep module - but they've been studiously ignoring my request to purchase the assemblies - how quickly they forget, eh.............

Ripster · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 1:25 pm

I just happened onto the right location, looked down in the tank and there is a ridge, you can see it from the outside bottom, and there is
an opening where, if you can get the module arm into that area, maybe the gauge will be close. Don't know for sure, but my alignment
was as crdjon photos indicate, so time will tell. crdjon's photos are spot on to what I observed also.

crdjon · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:40 pm

Im happy the photos help out, this forum and gmctd has helped me immensely and squashed some misgivings I had about my kj, pics my way of sharing and repaying the favour, from here on in its lookin good...... I really enjoy this group and the collaboration is just fantastic. 2.30 am here so i reckon I should get some zzzzzz's

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Fri May 02, 2008 4:35 pm

Just an update on my corrected fuel gauge
Recall that I added a variable resistor to one of the fuel gauge signal wires. I then adjusted the gauge needle while the tank was full (20.5 gallons). The needle line up just to the full line, not pegged.

Today the low fuel light and "chime" came on with a little less than 1/8 of a tank dispalyed on the gauge and 393 actual miles from the odometer. I ran another 30 miles before filling up with 19.5 gallons. I had averaged 21.7 mpg on this tankfull (typical) (evic reading 23.4 mpg at the time of fill up, which is the average from the previous 50 miles or so).

I believe this is how I want the system to work. Fuel light on at about 30 city miles to go (2.4 gallons left in tank, one of which is not reliably useable).

It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

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