It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

crdjon · **Posted:** Sat May 03, 2008 1:29 am

Hi Bill, Seems to be working fine for you

Do you know or Is it possibile for you to measure the resistance setting of your variable resistor at this time

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Mon May 05, 2008 8:35 am

I got mine done yesterday! I did it by myself and it was quite a project. I already modified the new 05 harness a week ago so it was ready to go. I started about 10:00 am and drove her to the fuel pump at 9:45 last night. That included 1 hour cleaning and washing down the garage floor before starting.

As it ended up, I had 3 gal in the tank at the time. All went as planed except I had not read about anyone doing this with a CRD having the factory skids and trailer tow options. To get the tank protecting skid plate off, you have to remove the trailer hitch as it uses the same bolts and is under the hitch. One bolt is above the exhaust and the passenger side rear tire needs to be removed to access it. It was quite a job for one guy to do with a 3/8" socket set and a beer belly.

I went through all the fuel sending info to get the float in the right place in the tank. I bent the wire (with 2 vice grips) and it looks to be as close to the old as eyeballing could get it. The fuel guage read 1/4 with the 3 gal. that was left in it. It is nothing that I can't deal with. My 95 S10 Blazer was the same way and I drove it 10 years without running out of fuel. It stayed on full for a long time but when it hit the 1/4 mark, you best be finding a station. I could only go 330 mile in it though.

I went through 2 - 25 second cycles of priming the system without starting the truck. I tried to bleed air at the fuel management head but none was there. It was the first time I bled it that there was not any air there. It started on the first crank and never sputtered a bit. It was noticably quieter running and the acceleration was much better through the gears. Filled her up ($73.00) and put her back in the garage to check for any leaks. As best as I could tell, I saw none and none was on the floor this morning. I don't know where the air was coming from before. Definately a great mod. and I am really glad it is over. The wife threw out the jeans and shirt I was wearing. There was a lot of dirt on top of the tank and the on top of the skid plate. Mixed that with the fuel I splashed around removing the old sending unit and she would not let me back in the house with them on. (thankfully I was not wearing my "L.O.S.T. for Life" tee shirt) I clamped off all the openings on the tank, washed the tank and skid plate down, and air dried them before removing the unit. Thanks to everyone. I have the old harness to scavenge end pins from for those that want them. PM me with your needs and address and I will send them to you N/C.

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Mon May 05, 2008 10:07 am

Just for information sake, where did you get your fuel pump from (what model, 34 or 35 gallon tank) and how much did you pay? Thanks...

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Mon May 05, 2008 10:34 am

crdjon wrote:

Hi Bill, Seems to be working fine for you

Do you know or Is it possibile for you to measure the resistance setting of your variable resistor at this time

CRDJON... I will try to get this... will have to take out the seat

crdjon · **Posted:** Mon May 05, 2008 11:01 am

Bill, Only if its not too much trouble. That sounds like too much work, it would be nice to know though.

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon May 05, 2008 11:14 am

I popped the sender out of the old unit yesterday, as gmctd said, its very easy, one connector, one tie rap. I'm not going to get to changing it for a couple of weeks, but the ease of swapping the sending units really makes that the obvious choice.

I took pictures of the sending unit, will post when I get a chance.

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon May 05, 2008 12:44 pm

May be the angular displacement caused by the offset Dodge tab - place the two modules next to each other, tabs aligned as mounted in the Jeep tank, bend the Dodge float arm to match the Jeep arm position - elevate both modules to allow the arms to hang down, compare the bottomed out position, make the Dodge arm match the Jeep - Actung! do not bend the arm against the fuel module stops - use two pairs of vise-grips or pliers for reliable results

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Mon May 05, 2008 12:48 pm

Turbo Tim wrote:

Just for information sake, where did you get your fuel pump from (what model, 34 or 35 gallon tank) and how much did you pay? Thanks...

Module, Fuel Pump 2005-2006 Dodge 3500 Cummins 34 gallon
5143160AA $149.86

WIRING, FUEL TANK 2005 LIBERTY 3.7L
56050284AB $34.40

Shipping was $14.74
Moparpartsamerica.com

longview · **Joined:** Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:28 pm **Posts:** 88

Scott,
How long did you wait for the parts?

I ordered mine on March 11th and still havent gotten anything.
Kinda getting ticked it is taking so long.
I tried contacting MoparPartsAmerica, but they just say still on back order.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue May 06, 2008 7:20 am

gmctd wrote:

May be the angular displacement caused by the offset Dodge tab - place the two modules next to each other, tabs aligned as mounted in the Jeep tank, bend the Dodge float arm to match the Jeep arm position - elevate both modules to allow the arms to hang down, compare the bottomed out position, make the Dodge arm match the Jeep - Actung! do not bend the arm against the fuel module stops - use two pairs of vise-grips or pliers for reliable results

Looking at all the pictures it appears the tab is causing the guage problem. Would it be bad to just cut the tab off and put the new unit in the same position the old one was in or am I missing somthing :?:

My tank should be low enough by this weekend and things like a poorly behaving fuel guage would bother me :lol:

Scott, Sorry to hear about your jeans but at least she let you back in the house :oops:

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Tue May 06, 2008 7:21 am

longview wrote:

Scott,
How long did you wait for the parts?

I ordered mine on March 11th and still havent gotten anything.
Kinda getting ticked it is taking so long.
I tried contacting MoparPartsAmerica, but they just say still on back order.

Mine was ordered Monday March 31 @ 6:44 am - recieved Monday April 15 on my porch when I got home.

note that my harness was for an '05

They told me the harness was not in stock and asked me if I wanted to wait to ship the order complete and gave me a ship date of about 2 weeks. It all arrived at my door about 10 days later. It pleasently surprised me. I was worried about it and one of the great memebers we have here mailed me the pins required to make my own additions to the original harness. Something to consider here; when I went to unplug the original harness under the truck, both plugs were very brittle. Just using my thumb nail, both red slide clips pulled clear out of the plug and when I pushed in and down on the retaining clip, it cracked the side of the enclosing plastic. The plug should still lock as the retaining clip was undamaged but the red slide lock was trashed. Why they were so brittle I do not know but, if you want to modify the original harness, be very careful unplugging it. Let me know if you want anything from my old harness.

PS anybody that wants the original fuel guage sending unit from my old part so they can modify their new lift pump with it before you start the modification, PM me with your information and I will ship it to you N/C. I will not be dropping the tank to switch it. I will do what Bill.Barg did if it bothers me that much.

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Tue May 06, 2008 7:59 am

Bill.Barg wrote:

Just an update on my corrected fuel gauge
Recall that I added a variable resistor to one of the fuel gauge signal wires. I then adjusted the gauge needle while the tank was full (20.5 gallons). The needle line up just to the full line, not pegged.

Today the low fuel light and "chime" came on with a little less than 1/8 of a tank dispalyed on the gauge and 393 actual miles from the odometer. I ran another 30 miles before filling up with 19.5 gallons. I had averaged 21.7 mpg on this tankfull (typical) (evic reading 23.4 mpg at the time of fill up, which is the average from the previous 50 miles or so).

I believe this is how I want the system to work. Fuel light on at about 30 city miles to go (2.4 gallons left in tank, one of which is not reliably useable).

Bill.Barg, Did I miss where you said the specific varible resistor you used and where you got it. Which fuel guage wire did you splice into and couldn't the splice be made so the resistor would be accessable thru the insulation and carpet at the place where the front dbl bracket for the seat bolts down? You could then alter the resistance until you find the proper setting and push it back under the carpet and insulation under the seat to be protected. I am not sure I will mess with it but would like to put your answer in my files in case I want to make the change.

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Tue May 06, 2008 9:46 am

I installed a variable resistor inline with the fuel gauge signal wire (brown.green).

see

http://picasaweb.google.com/bill.barg/J ... 1012296898

You need to get something to mount the pot to inline, like the fuse holder I used, then solder the pot in.

32 turn, 0 to 200 ohm "dashpot". Adjusted with a tiny flat head driver. I got it at a local electronic parts store. Digikey has similar for mail order.

I did try to make the pot accessible under the carpet near the door,but have not needed to get under there since my firts adjustment worked out fine, both at full and empty.

The adjusted gauge works nicer than the original settings where the tank showed too full (80 miles before leaving full mark).

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Tue May 06, 2008 10:46 am

So why not check the resistance of the sender BEFORE opening the tank, then recheck after the install?
By emptying the tank, measure the resistance empty, then flip the tank over to simulate full, measure again. Do this again after the install of the new pump/sender assembly and compare the readings. If not the same, then tweak to match what you had before. This should verify if you will see any difference in the fuel gauge readings after the install.

Another question was asked and no answer yet, why not cut the tab off and realign the unit to match what it was originally?

bugnout · **Posted:** Tue May 06, 2008 11:29 am

Turbo Tim wrote:

So why not check the resistance of the sender BEFORE opening the tank, then recheck after the install?
By emptying the tank, measure the resistance empty, then flip the tank over to simulate full, measure again. Do this again after the install of the new pump/sender assembly and compare the readings. If not the same, then tweak to match what you had before. This should verify if you will see any difference in the fuel gauge readings after the install.

Another question was asked and no answer yet, why not cut the tab off and realign the unit to match what it was originally?

\

Wouldn't hurt anything, but the tab keeps the unit from turning when your re-installing the metal ring. If your careful, you could probably do that. I used a big crow bar and a hammer to re-install the ring, my guess is it probably would have turned as I drove it back on. If I recall correctly, you could trim about half the tab and get it to line up correctly. that way it prevents it from turning to far.

bugnout · **Posted:** Tue May 06, 2008 1:33 pm

IMHO I believe my float arm is flat on the bottom of the tank without having to alter the indexing tab. I think the only issue is the calibration of the sending unit. I haven't had a chance to take everything apart yet to put my original unit in,

I believe the simple solution is to change the sending unit. Its already calibrated correctly and you don't have to alter anything, bend any arms, alter the index tab to make it work.

gmctd · **Posted:** Tue May 06, 2008 6:30 pm

Could be, but I painstakingly compared the '05 Jeep sending element to the '06 Dodge element to find them identical in resistance and linearity - I do not think they made a running production change in the units, tho there is some question as to the later 34\35gal tank spec

Long as you're dropping the tank, doing mechanical dimensionery is easy

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed May 07, 2008 7:10 am

bugnout wrote:

Wouldn't hurt anything, but the tab keeps the unit from turning when your re-installing the metal ring. If your careful, you could probably do that. I used a big crow bar and a hammer to re-install the ring, my guess is it probably would have turned as I drove it back on. If I recall correctly, you could trim about half the tab and get it to line up correctly. that way it prevents it from turning to far.

Thanks Bugnout

I agree with GMCTD that the angular position is most likely the reason the guages does not work correctly and you've just given me the solution to the problem :lol:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed May 07, 2008 10:07 pm

I took the time today to install the diesel dodge lift pump :lol:

I added the wires to the crd harness without removing it from the jeep and you can't even tell I was there :lol:

The hardest part of the whole ordeal was taking he rear seats out :cry:

Now I eyeballed the pump up the way the old one was aligned and determined that cutting half of the index tab would put it dead on. Looking at the new pump with the tab at the12 o'clock position cutting the right half off will do the trick. It so happens when you put the retaining ring back on it pushes it clockwise into the correct position.

I had one line over empty when I started and one line over empty on completion

It took 18.991 gallons to fill it up. So far so good on the guage.

Since I took the Faucit (sp?) off I can take it in to have the transfer case looked at. When going from full time to 2 wheel it stays in part time forever unless it's driven in part time for a few hundred feet then it goes to 2 wheel :roll:

I'm going insist they drive it with me in the car so they can't say "unable to duplicate" :wink:

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed May 07, 2008 10:20 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

When going from full time to 2 wheel it stays in part time forever unless it's driven in part time for a few hundred feet then it goes to 2 wheel :roll:

I'm going insist they drive it with me in the car so they can't say "unable to duplicate" :wink:

Joe, I believe you supposed to change from full time to part time to 2 wheel while driving forward on the fly and th same the other way. My 98 Durango worked the same way and never a problem.

It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

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