Boost Pressure Sensor

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

Quote:

Ranger1, any luck on a price for a new sensor?

Sorry, I posted the link last week to the part on the other thread where the boost sensor cleaning first started (egr failures).
Same description and price as posted here earlier. $38.80 plus shipping. Good to hear it has a protective coating. Just needs a good soot repellent.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... f1f2d2598d

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:36 am

At least the darn thing is easy to get to and fairly affordable. It would be nice if this was the worst issue we faced.

litton · **Posted:** Mon Jan 08, 2007 11:35 am

Here are a couple of links to the Bosch info on our sensor. They call it a T-MAP and interestinly the pressure rating is 3 bar absolute which means that we're running right near the max when boosting at 30 psi.

http://apps.bosch.com.au/motorsport/dow ... rs_map.pdf

And the application guide which indicatis that this sensor is used on a Fiat Stilo, SW JTD (???), Opel Astra, and the Zafira 2.2 TDI (what ever that is)

http://www.merkury-bg.biz/PIC/Injection ... SSIONE.pdf

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

Good info. Converting 3 bar to psi works out to a top end of about 43.5 psi. If anyone gets that much boost on a stock CRD, other issues will soon surface.

DZL_LOU · **Posted:** Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:34 pm

Ranger1 wrote:

Good info. Converting 3 bar to psi works out to a top end of about 43.5 psi. If anyone gets that much boost on a stock CRD, other issues will soon surface.

Yeah, like bye bye turbo seals.

litton · **Posted:** Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:11 pm

Ahhh, it's not quite that good. The specs are three bar absolute so you have to subtract for normal atmospheric pressure at your elevation.

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

That must be why a 3 bar sensor is specified for a 0-30 psi gauge. The Autometer boost gauge I ordered came with a GM boost sensor, spec'd at 3bar. It's one of those that uses vacuum to sensor, and electric signal to the gauge.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:42 am

I did a small write up (cut & paste mostly from Ranger1) with pictures for the FAQ section, if anything else needs to be added just PM me.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I did a 20k service on my wife's CRD which included front/rear diffs and transfer case fluid replacement. I also pullled the boost sensor to take a look at it and was pleasantly surprised. It had NO soot and only had the lighest wisp of oil coating it. I gave it a squirt of carb cleaner and reinstalled it. I won't bother looking at it until the 50k odometer mark.

Does anybody know if my high altitude affects EGR operation? I live at almost 7,000 feet ASL and car is driving 60 highway/40 city and has had two 2,000 mile roadtrips in the past 6 months-most recent one was last weekend.

Provent CCV filter was installed since first day of ownership.
Fuel: There is always at least 5-10% biodiesel blend in the tank. I typically fill up with B20 and then topoff with ULSD once the tank hits the 1/2 way mark on the guage.

Wife who is the primary driver has a leadfoot, consequently car is in continuous italian tuneup mode.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Tue Jan 09, 2007 8:38 am

Drewd wrote:

I did a 20k service on my wife's CRD which included front/rear diffs and transfer case fluid replacement. I also pullled the boost sensor to take a look at it and was pleasantly surprised. It had NO soot and only had the lighest wisp of oil coating it. I gave it a squirt of carb cleaner and reinstalled it. I won't bother looking at it until the 50k odometer mark.

Does anybody know if my high altitude affects EGR operation? I live at almost 7,000 feet ASL and car is driving 60 highway/40 city and has had two 2,000 mile roadtrips in the past 6 months-most recent one was last weekend.

Provent CCV filter was installed since first day of ownership.
Fuel: There is always at least 5-10% biodiesel blend in the tank. I typically fill up with B20 and then topoff with ULSD once the tank hits the 1/2 way mark on the guage.

Wife who is the primary driver has a leadfoot, consequently car is in continuous italian tuneup mode.

I would guess that your use of ULSD is the real reason for the lack of soot. The B20 may be less soot prone, but mine was clogged after 21,xxx miles and I have used mostly B10 49 cetane fuel. The fuel I am using now is 50+ cetane ULSD, and my wife is also pretty much a lead foot. I should know if it is the ULSD that is preventing sooting of things up in the CRD when I check it again in about 5,000 miles.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jan 09, 2007 8:44 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Mine was packed slap full of carbon at under 17000 miles. It was just a black lump. I cleaned it out with some solvent and I'll post if I notice any difference. I'm hoping it'll cure this surging/hesitation I've been having at very light throttle application when the engine is cold.

Well, problem solved!

I'm really pleased about finding the solution here because the surging was really getting on my nerves. I've tried disconnecting the battery overnight without fixing it, but cleaning the MAP sensor actually worked! That's three stone cold starts without experiencing the problem, and it used to happen EVERY TIME.

TDI4BY · **Joined:** Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:56 pm **Posts:** 644

I will send pictures later but at 27,000 miles it was plugged solid. :shock:

I had a really hard time getting it clean. I had to carefully scrape part of the carbon off of the sensor after I uncovered it.

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

Yesterday, I attached my obd reader to the CRD and monitored the intake air temperature, while watching the egr function via the mass air flow rate (MAF sensor readings). When the egr activates, it raises IAT dramatically. Blasting scorching, hot, dirty soot laden exhaust into the intake ports will do that. But today, I wanted to see how the boost/iat sensor was working since the cleaning.

Before the MAP cleaning, the intake air temperature readings used to take several minutes to either rise or fall. Now, they change in seconds. My obd reader only reads about every 2 seconds, but the response of the IAT is much faster now than before.

Other general observations:

Outside air temperature 54 degrees F
Engine fully warmed up - idle speed 761 rpm
Intake air temperature - egr off 90 degrees F
Intake air temperature - egr on 128 degrees F

Once the egr cycles on (touch the accelerator for just a blip and it comes on at idle when up to temp), the IAT rises the full amount in 10 seconds. Once the egr cycles off (idle for 75 seconds, observe Mass Air Flow readings double - thats MAF, not MAP) the IAT drops to the lower temperature in ~ 12 seconds. Prior to cleaning, it took up to 7 minutes.

The obd reader is getting its data from the PCM, which gets its data from the sensors.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:11 pm

Ranger1 wrote:

Yesterday, I attached my obd reader to the CRD and monitored the intake air temperature, while watching the egr function via the mass air flow rate (MAF sensor readings). When the egr activates, it raises IAT dramatically. The obd reader is getting its data from the PCM, which gets it from the sensors.

What type of reader do you have? I have a vag-com that worked in generic obdII mode on my 96 and 99 xjs and gave me those readings but errors out when I tried it on my CRD. I've not had F31 done yet so that might be the reason. vag-com uses iso9141 as I recall.

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

AutoTap, but I don't recommend it due to very poor software support. On the CRD, it can only read a few sensors. No response from Autotap as to why. It works better on the V6 ECM.

BLake · **Posted:** Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:29 am

Ranger1 wrote:

Outside air temperature 54 degrees F
Engine fully warmed up - idle speed 761 rpm
Intake air temperature - egr off 90 degrees F
Intake air temperature - egr on 128 degrees F

Once the egr cycles on (touch the accelerator for just a blip and it comes on at idle when up to temp), the IAT rises the full amount in 10 seconds. Once the egr cycles off (idle for 75 seconds, observe Mass Air Flow readings double - thats MAF, not MAP) the IAT drops to the lower temperature in ~ 12 seconds. Prior to cleaning, it took up to 7 minutes.

The obd reader is getting its data from the PCM, which gets it from the sensors.

When my ScanGuage is working, at cruise, I have noticed temps as high as 170 F. I think the EGR turns off in top gear because the temp drops rapidly to about 120 F. 4th gear of TQ unlock, temps are up there.

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

Summertime IAT's easily reach 170F, with egr on, on mine as well. The rate at which the boost/temp sensor is able to detect the temperature changes is what I was looking for.

KJMedic · **Posted:** Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:18 pm

Cleaned mine yesterday. Same as the rest here. Soot was dry and came off easy.

biocrow · **Joined:** Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:49 pm **Posts:** 6

I have aroun 31,000 miles on my CRD. I cleaned my sensor yesterday. It was heavily covered, probably 95% clogged with dry soot. Going to watch this sensor carefully, as I have had the EGR replaced twice, and the EGR flow valve once. I use ULSD about 50% of the time.

BioCrow
Gainesville, GA
Early '05 build CRD[/img]

europachris · **Posted:** Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:57 am

biocrow wrote:

I have aroun 31,000 miles on my CRD. I cleaned my sensor yesterday. It was heavily covered, probably 95% clogged with dry soot. Going to watch this sensor carefully, as I have had the EGR replaced twice, and the EGR flow valve once. I use ULSD about 50% of the time.

BioCrow
Gainesville, GA
Early '05 build CRD[/img]

We're in exactly the same boat - about 33K miles on an early '05 unit. Two EGRs and a flow valve. On ULSD now 100%. Our sensor was 100% packed when I took it out a few weeks ago. Cleaning it, however, didn't seem to affect anything. Still runs as good as usual.

Chris

Boost Pressure Sensor

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