Inline thermostat

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Nov 16, 2011 5:28 pm

The actual tstat is a generic Chevy 195F that I bet you can get in S. Africa. The housing is under 8oz and while I cannot comment on customs entanglements the USPS flat rate shipping is under $15 for what that's worth.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

How about a picture of this installed for reference for us newbies. Which clamps do you recommend in stainless.

arengant · **Posted:** Wed Nov 16, 2011 8:38 pm

I reused the two OEM clamps in the original positions, and then bought two clamps from hardware store for the tstat housing...

Quiksilver · **Posted:** Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:34 pm

papaindigo wrote:

The actual tstat is a generic Chevy 195F that I bet you can get in S. Africa. The housing is under 8oz and while I cannot comment on customs entanglements the USPS flat rate shipping is under $15 for what that's worth.

Summit quote for shipping, plus parts, $193...

of which $87 is parts

Guess Ill have to hit the parts stores and see what I can find...

:JEEPIN:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:06 pm

The price for the housing and a 195F Chevy tstat from Meziere direct is ca. $70+ shipping. Their WEB site does not accept international orders but they are willing to consider them and suggest international customers contact them by email at info@meziere.com Might be worth a follow-up.

The USPS (https://www.usps.com/send/priority-mail ... l-flat.htm) international flat rate shipping for a small box is $13.95, if I am reading their site correctly, so in theory an order from Meziere to you should cost like $85 total + maybe a $10 packing/handling charge unless there are some export/import customs issues I am not aware of. If Meziere cannot accomidate you for a reasonable price perhaps you can check into whether shipping a housing and tstat is any more complicated than putting it in a USPS box with address and sending it off. If it's that simple then the question boils down to how to move the necessary $s from there to here. Drop me an email if you want to discuss further.

I do note you have a link to GDE and they have some overseas business experience so perhaps they can clarify what needs to be done. Paying $193 is unreasonable.

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

Wondering if stuffing a blockage in radhose is good idea. The stock unit allows water to still flow correct? What happens to water pump and built up pressure until aftermarket thermo opens. Obviously drilling 1/8 hole in new chev thermo is good idea plus will help get air out system if you face hole up. I looked around online and found some info on 195 chev thermo they start to open 195.

Normal Operating Temp - on our cars is in fact 195°. Every calibration in the GM tech manual that calls for normal temp at 1000 RPM idle is set to 90° C which converted is 194° F. Exactly why we have a 195° thermostat.

Thermostat Myth - Many assume a 195° thermostat is open at 195°. This is not correct. This is when the thermostat is calibrated to "begin" to open. It will be totally open at approximately 206° and close at 188° in order to try and maintain a 195° "middle of the road" temp. This is known as the operating range.

I am still debating on sticking with factory thermo might be best option for next 100k miles. Cooling during summer should be better towing. Anyone know the calibration on factory themo is it 185?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Nov 17, 2011 5:46 pm

Comments:
1. GDE recommends a 195F tstat and I believe the export 2007 and later KJ CRDs have that temp tstat
2. The 2005/06 KJ CRD OEM tstat is 176F (maybe 180F). See lengthy discussions at http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/19.page and viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50940
3. The 2005/06 KJ CRD normal operating temp base is controlled by the tstat. With the OEM tstat depending on a variety of factors some find their vehicle operates at a steady 176/180F and others a bit higher which is part of the reason GDE recommends a higher temp tstat to improve operating temp and combustion.
4. The stock tstat functions as designed but its biggest design flaw is that it :furious:

is a sealed unit and the second biggest flaw is that it tends to progressively fail, way too soon, by opening, at least it doesn't fail closed, earlier and earlier beginning somewhere in the 40-50K range. That progressive failure seems to finally reach the point where the regular, not under extra load, engine operating temp is on the order of 135F.
5. The housing of the OEM tstat provides the "piping" requried to direct coolant flow during warm up away from the radiator and during operation to the "top" of the radiator and the overflow tank on the firewall. Hence one needs to at least keep the OEM housing to maintain that flow regime.
6. Work arounds to the sealed unit problem are either a) kap's reman of the unit so it can be operated as a housing that can be opened to replace a failed tstat (IMHO the ideal solution) or b) keep the housing and install an inline tstat.
7. The inline option only creates a blockage in the radiator hose when it is closed which is no different than the OEM tstat although I suppose having 2 open tstats in the system (OEM semi failed but fully open and inline) could cause a minor flow restriction but that has not seemed to be an issue for those running the inline. The water pump is no more impacted by a closed inline tstat than it is by a closed OEM tstat. Finally the purpose of the skirt hole is less to deal with air in the system, although it does help, but rather to provide for some passage of coolant, as it heats up, past the inline tstat so it opens in a timely manner. The latter at least in part because some of the earlier users of the inline experienced a brief spike in operating temp before the inline tstat opened, the skirt hole solved that problem to the extent that it is a problem.

Bottom line is either an OEM replacement or an inline will do the trick. One is stock and modestly expensive and the other is not stock but cheaper now and in the long run. Me I went for an OEM; sent my failed OEM to kap for his mod which went to stoutdog to replace his failing OEM; and I'm now awaiting kap's gear to clear customs down under.

dkenny · **Posted:** Sat Nov 19, 2011 11:12 pm

this is to hijack the thread to support an inline or a new OEM.
if you not running at the proper temps, think 190F or so, you wasting fuel.
for some time my wife's jeep was running COLD. before the inline mod it was 158F coolant but IR meter and ODBC. TOO COLD..since the mod she now getting 3-5MPG more than before..about 300miles at 1/2 tank gauge. sure its just a rough guess. but that is good as we can get. we use biodiesel and I'm not sure the meter on that pump is accurate.

either way it was easy to install and cheaper than a new OEM..and in our case time for a coolant change anyway.

so do it..

I got the housing from Amazon for $55 + shipping + some from a local place for a 190F chevy thermostat($6)..
I drilled the hole in the flange..and I think I even installed it backwards(spring towards the radiator,,opps) but it works just fine. next time for a coolant change I check this.

-dkenny

nissanfrontier · **Joined:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 pm **Posts:** 145

I am nervous about messing around with with diesel. Did some reading how one guy got air into head and had $2500 bill. I have done flushes before no problem but this jeep has me stumped. Is there radiator cap?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 12:01 pm

See comment #5 in my post above; the radiator cap is the one on top of the firewall tank. The bleeder/vent is on the upper passenger side of radiator; crack it; fill until fluid comes out; close it; fill the tank to just above the mid line; drive say 20 miles; let engine cool; top off if need be. The purpose of the degasiing port is to bleed air and coolant as it expands into the firewall tank and the as the engine cools only coolant is drawn back in to the engine. Self purging just like most all vehicle coolant systems built since 1980 or so (e.g. any system with an overflow bottle)

bigbillyboy · **Joined:** Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:10 pm **Posts:** 75

Just ordered mine. $54.95 on amazon. Free shipping just takes a bit longer.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NDHHAW/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

Install (hopefully) by next weekend. It will be nice to have hot air once again. An increase in mileage will be a pure bonus.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2011 12:16 pm

when you do this, make sure your hole in the tstat is not to large, 5/32's is too large I am goin down to 3/32's an a grille cover in winter as the thing will not stay warm.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2011 12:32 pm

Back in the day when I did this for most any gasser tstat we did a 1/8" hole which was just enough to keep the engine from red lining if the tstat failed closed (e.g. the temp gauge would go way up but not all the way to boiling over) Remember this was back in the day of no overflow bottle so if you boiled you could lose massive amounts of coolant; neve mind the boiling fountain if you were stupid enough to pop the radiator cap off.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:48 pm

bigbillyboy wrote:

Just ordered mine. $54.95 on amazon. Free shipping just takes a bit longer.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NDHHAW/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

How do you get to $54.95??? - this link is currently $83.72 (+13.41 shipping)

arengant · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2011 10:55 pm

striperman36 wrote:

when you do this, make sure your hole in the tstat is not to large, 5/32's is too large I am goin down to 3/32's an a grille cover in winter as the thing will not stay warm.

With no hole, my temp would spike. Drilled the 1/8 because that was the size I had. I had no problems in western WA where the Avg cold spell doesn't dip below freezing for more than a couple days. This winter I'm in MO... if it runs too cold I have a spare with no hole.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:41 pm

arengant wrote:

striperman36 wrote:

when you do this, make sure your hole in the tstat is not to large, 5/32's is too large I am goin down to 3/32's an a grille cover in winter as the thing will not stay warm.

With no hole, my temp would spike. Drilled the 1/8 because that was the size I had. I had no problems in western WA where the Avg cold spell doesn't dip below freezing for more than a couple days. This winter I'm in MO... if it runs too cold I have a spare with no hole.

on the highway running at speed it gets up to point just at the center line, soon as I get below 40 it starts to drop off down to the 1/3 or lower. I think 5/32's is too big.

bigbillyboy · **Joined:** Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:10 pm **Posts:** 75

ATXKJ wrote:

bigbillyboy wrote:

Just ordered mine. $54.95 on amazon. Free shipping just takes a bit longer.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NDHHAW/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

How do you get to $54.95??? - this link is currently $83.72 (+13.41 shipping)

must have been a sale. I just rechecked and it went back up. But, I only paid $54.95...

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Mon Nov 28, 2011 12:50 pm

I installed mine on Saturday and drove approx. 100 miles Sunday and it worked flawlessly. I drained the coolant and replaced it with G05 Zerex and distilled water. It took 1 gal. of each to refill it. This is only what drained out of the radiator drain. It is now running just a little to the cool side of the 12 o'clock mark and stays there. I read the previous posts that suggested both a 3/32" hole and a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange so I went with a 7/64". The temp rises smoothly and sits firm on the guage. What a slick fix!

bigbillyboy · **Joined:** Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:10 pm **Posts:** 75

It has been two weeks and two tanks of fuel. Temps have been in the upper 20's to mid 40's. Jeep has heated up quickly, and stays at exactly 1 notch below 1/2. This included a road trip over the mountain pass where I was climbing and traveling about 70mph. It's nice to have cabin heat again. According the EVIC, I have noticed about a 5% increase in mileage.

Overall very happy. I wish I had done this last fall.

bucklanddj · **Posted:** Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:47 pm

just curious, but what actually triggers the fan to kick in. The only thing i'm thinking is that if we change the thermostat temp, does this mess with the fan at all.

Inline thermostat

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