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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 3:04 am 
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Tired old Dave,

Running any engine at W O T unloaded isn't a real good idea, and it doesn't clean out anything. More rpms mean more linear distance traveled by the pistons in the cylinder, more wear, minute yes but it's there. It also loads the pistons and con rods differently at the end of their travel when they are changing direction to go the other way. Piston slap is what some call the difference there, and the con rods will pound out the lower cap and bearing as it deforms under centrifugal loading. When the engine it under load 3 out of the 4 strokes loads the top of the con rod where all the metal is, all the strength.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:18 am 
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Just had ours done. Our 2006 was a 9-05 build date. Turbo lag is gone (was pretty minimal before tho), and the tranny shifts way better. Before the flash, you would be lightly accelerating and when you hit 64mpg at 2000rpms (4th gear) it would go up to about 2200rpms and then back down to 1800rpms, it was a very lazy shift. Now doing the same thing it goes right down to 1800rpms, no more revving up a little between shifts, they engage faster now. Basically it does what any other automatic tranny does now, lol... All of the other shifts are the same too, no more over revving between shifts, faster shifting. Maybe thats what the "durability" thing is all about, because now it doesnt "slip" between each shift.

Haven't noticed anything different engine or power wise, all that seems to be the same. Which is good in my book.


Last edited by omniphil on Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:22 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:20 am 
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Spoonplugger,

I'm afraid you're off on what you're calling piston slap. Piston slap refers to a condition where either the piston or the cylinder walls are slightly misshapen, so instead of having the piston travelling straight up and down in the cylinder, it can rock back and forth ever so slightly, thereby deforming the seals and allowing the edges of the piston to hit the cylinder walls (slap).

The loads on the pistons and con rods aren't any different under high RPM use, they're just greater.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:34 am 
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From internet source listed:
Quote:

March 20, 2002

Noisy engine? It might be "piston slap"
by Jim Kerr

Knock, knock, knock, knock. No it's not the neighbour at the door. It's the disturbing sound of piston slap coming from your car or truck's engine. Is it a problem? Maybe - it depends on whom you talk to. During the last couple of years, I have had hundreds of inquiries about piston slap. Let's look at what causes the knock, and why it is much more common now than in the past.

In simple terms, piston slap occurs when the piston is forced rapidly against the side of the engine cylinder wall. The more clearance between the piston and cylinder wall, the louder the knock. Controlling piston slap is a complex process. Too little clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall and the parts will score and fail. Too much clearance and you get a knock. It doesn't help that usually the piston and cylinder are made of different materials and have different expansion rates.

Several features are used in piston design to reduce slap. To keep the piston close to the cylinder yet allow room for expansion, the piston skirt (the part that slides against the cylinder) is tapered - it is bigger at the bottom than at the top. The top of the piston expands more, where the extra clearance is, because of higher heat at the top of the piston. The bottom always remains close to the cylinder.


Pistons are also made oval shaped. The large part of the piston is close to the cylinder, while there is clearance on the smaller sides. As the piston expands, heat is transferred into the smaller sides, so the piston becomes more round. Thus, the large sides of the piston always stay close to the cylinder and piston slap is avoided.

There are several other piston features to counter piston slap, such as offsetting the piston pin position, but I think you get the idea. Too much clearance between the piston and the cylinder and we hear that Knock, knock, knock.

In the past, the sound of piston slap meant trouble. Worn cylinders, damaged piston skirts, or cracked pistons were common causes, and all meant expensive repairs. Now things have changed.

Engine designs have changed to make them more compact, lighter, with less internal friction, and higher revving. To do all this, piston design had to change, and some of the major changes are shorter piston skirts and straight piston skirts. The short, straight skirts allow the piston to rock more in the cylinder, and we hear it as piston slap.

Closer manufacturing tolerances have helped reduce piston clearances and slap, but some engines need more piston clearance to allow for piston expansion. During the first few minutes of operation, the piston can expand several thousandths of an inch, yet clearances are typically in the one to two thousandths of an inch. Fortunately, the cylinder also expands, or we would find pistons seized.

On vehicles built in the last decade, piston slap that occurs for a few seconds on cold start is quite normal. My own vehicle, with only 30,000 km on it has piston slap for about 5 seconds when first started on a below freezing winter morning. Service information from General Motors states "A cold Piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable". From experience, I have found that piston slap that occurs only during cold starts and lasts only for a minute or less causes no problems. Just don't place a load on the engine until the pistons have expanded and the clearance has been reduced.

Speaking of clearance, we normally find piston to cylinder clearance in the .0005 inch to .002 inch range. A human hair is typically about .002 inches thick, so you can see the clearances are very small. Some manufacturers are using special coatings on piston skirts to reduce friction. This enables them to reduce clearances even less and prevent piston slap. Ford V8 overhead camshaft engines use coated pistons; so does the Corvette Z06 high performance engine, as well as other manufacturers.

A good example to show the advantages of coated piston skirts is the Corvette. Clearance specifications for the coated pistons are from minus .001 inch to plus .001 inch. You read correctly; minus clearances! The piston is actually larger than the cylinder on the skirt sides of the piston. That coating has to be slippery! As the engine warms up, expansion in the cylinder block gives more clearance.

The correct engine oil can help reduce slap. Good oil takes up some clearance and is not easily scraped off the cylinder wall during cold starts. Sometimes, changing oil brands or viscosity can reduce a cold start piston slap.

If you suspect your piston slap is excessive, then there is an easy method to locate which cylinder has the problem. Before starting the engine, remove one spark plug wire and short it to the engine block. When the engine is started, that cylinder has less pressure pushing the piston sideways. If the knock changes, or is gone, then that is the cylinder with the problem. If the knock is still there, try another cylinder at the next cold start. It takes a little time, but it is much better to locate where the problem is before disassembling the engine.

So is piston slap a problem? Not for most engines built in the last decade and if the noise is there only for a few seconds during cold start. If the knock is in an engine of older design, the knock continues, or it is there during acceleration, then engine work is in the future. The worst part about piston slap is trying to explain that a cold start knock on newer vehicles can be normal, especially when you try to sell your vehicle!


Jim Kerr is a master automotive mechanic and teaches automotive technology. He has been writing automotive articles for fifteen years for newspapers and magazines in Canada and the United States, and is a member of the Automotive Journalist's Association of Canada (AJAC).

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 Post subject: spoonplugger1 and FarmDiesel
PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 11:43 am 
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Thanks. 1990's I believe Jeep I6 and GM V8 had piston slap problems and a read reported that almost all I6 owners were happy with Jeep's handling of the problem and I think I posted that elsewhere months ago. My only experience comes from a used R69S/US BMW boxer. The piston slap(?) noise was diagnosed by a dealer and I paid for the skirts to be knurlized. Should've let Dad dagnose it. Bottom end of a connecting rod was bad. Previous owner had removed the special hamonic balancer this model had. Some old motorcycle engines wouldn't even move until 10k rpm's. Then there is oversquare/undersquare and memories of the old long stroke straight eight Buicks. Everybody at the E--- website maybe blowing the snots out and I wanted an intelligent answer. In the military (per motorpool instructions) I had to take my captains' jeep out once a week and redline it through the gears to blow the carbon out. He never went over 25mph.


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 Post subject: piston slap
PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 9:17 pm 
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since were talking about piston slap I have been wondering about something. since this engine has liners, shouldn't we be using some sort of dca additive to prevent liner cavitation?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 9:30 pm 
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I wondered the same thing when I first bought the CRD. After researching everything I could find on anti-caviation additives, the best information was that HOAT is based on Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (acid later renamed to something else for marketing reasons) that does not require SCA treatments and is capable of handling diesel level vibrations in the cylinder wall. It apparently isn't compatible with anti-cavitation additives, as they seem to be designed primarily for proplyene based coolant. It does require regular replacement of antifreeze at recommended intervals, as the consequences of neglect are severe.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:54 am 
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Did not know that crd came with HOAT. Same stuff our new cats came with at work. Since you can add coolant extender to double the change interval in them you could ,in theory, do the same with the crd? Maybe not worth it for a couple gallons of coolant.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:41 pm 
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TSB 18-009-06 - How is this TSB working for those that have had it? Mine is scheduled to be done next week.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 3:18 am 
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MOSFET wrote:
TSB 18-009-06 - How is this TSB working for those that have had it? Mine is scheduled to be done next week.
All is hot, straight and normal.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:58 am 
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oldnavy wrote:
MOSFET wrote:
TSB 18-009-06 - How is this TSB working for those that have had it? Mine is scheduled to be done next week.
All is hot, straight and normal.


No offense intended here ON, but you were not having problems with the tranny shudder of glow plugs were you? Is there anyone that has had the tranny issue resolved by doing the TSB? Mine goes in next week because the check engine light is on again. Taking it to the dealer every month is starting to get old.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:12 am 
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tsb wont fix it but they have a new torque converter ,transmission pump, and cooler that will got mine back yesterday,look under topic "good news" for all the for all details

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:55 am 
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the big dog wrote:
tsb wont fix it but they have a new torque converter ,transmission pump, and cooler that will got mine back yesterday,look under topic "good news" for all the for all details
I knew they had to replace some that had gone too long for the TSB that replaced wrong filter, they had one brought in here from near by dealer with that problem because the other dealer thought/decided it was a diesel problem.

We hadn't too many miles on our CRD with the wrong filter when I took in and explained what was happening, the tranny build date and a copy of the TSB, they did the work with only about 2000 miles or less on the CRD, then they did this TSB.

I think the reason we never damaged the tranny and had all the jerking later on is when the CRD was first started in our garage it was started just before the garage door button was pushed and then the wife waits till door up then fastens her seatbelt before putting it in reverse which always alllowed the tranny to pump fluid up to the TC before being driven, she did the same thing when leaving work, start the truck, fastens seatbelts and do all the stuff women do before driving off, doing this let it run a couple of minutes and again pump the fluid up to the TC before driving off thus preventing TC damage from lack of fluid.

The reverse is also done, our garage is attached to back side of the house and you enter driveway and come to back of the house and hit the button and wait for the door to open. Wife drives in and then when garage door quits running she shuts off the engine, this procedure and driving through the subdividison allows for turbo cool down. She has been driving a diesel daily now for about 4 years and has all the proper starting and shut down procedures down pretty solid.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 11:48 am 
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Well mine has the shudder and was not one of the ones covered under the bad tranny filter TSB. So there was no "damage" to my unit, this is a defect from day one. It's probably a bad TC, but trying to get DC to replace it is like pulling teeth. I'll get the TSB bandaid done next week then start yelling for a new TC. My Jeeps been in the shop more than the my last 6 new vehicles combined and the Jeep only has 8k.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 1:34 pm 
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Amen, I've had tons of problems and this is only the beginning.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 1:44 pm 
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:roll: we'll guys i had to threaten'em to get something done,but they did seemed to get it fixed, driven over 200 miles since p/u and no sign of more problems. i think the torque converter.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:49 pm 
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Just took our CRD in to have a front axle leak fixed (leaking after they changed the fluid last time!). While there I asked them about TSB 18-009-06. They flat out refused, without even asking me why I wanted it done or if I was having symptoms. I've had just a little hunting after hard acceleration, not really a 'shudder'. But boating season is coming, and we tow just about 5,000#. The tech said that despite what the TSB says about performing this on any vehicle that is in for repair, their system (VIP?) does not say to perform it, and that they only will do a TSB for a vehicle with a related problem. Even though there are no 'related problems' mentioned in this TSB! Chrysler customer service backed them up and suggested I find another dealer.

On more than one occasion, this dealer has proven they are unable to perform basic service such as fluid changes without repeat trips. On top of that they are usually rude. I get free oil changes but at what cost? I still like the truck, but if I can't find a dealer that cares about me as a customer I'm through with it (and Jeep).

Anyone who can recommend a dealer with competent service in the Detroit area would be my hero at this point.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:56 pm 
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call chrysler , find who the dc rep is for the area.,call him continuously till it is fixed, :x :roll: he will get tired of your voice and they will get fixed, or they did for me

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 8:44 am 
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Thats something the manufactures dont usually realize.. If you make a great vehicle and the service just plain sucks, well, then the vehicle sucks too...

We had a 05' Lancer Evolution, great car, our local mitsubishi dealer was horrible, it makes no difference how good the car is if you cant get good service. We traded the Evolution after 3 month for our old 2005 Jeep liberty V6, (Now traded for a 2006 CRD) Lost a ton in the trade, but the jeep is backed by a great dealer that takes care of us. (at least in our area) And it makes all the difference in the world.


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 Post subject: Symptoms for TSB
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:22 pm 
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Hi all, new to board. Does anyone know if there are symptoms other that the shudder that are addressed by TSB 018-009-06?

Also, a question for Valkraider: where do you take your Jeep for service? The service department I've been taking mine to likes to overfill with oil - 8 qts! Even after being told that they previously overfilled. I'm doing my own oil changes now, but I'm losing confidence in this service department.

Thanks

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