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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 10:02 am 
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Cowpie1 wrote:
nursecosmo wrote:
All useless if you don't have access to an outlet.


Wow! Has internet, but is off the grid! Neat!


Alright smartypants. Of course I plug ion at home. I don't have anywhere to plug in at work and I work nights. There have been a couple of times last year when it wouldn't start. Now that my wife works nights, I'm concerned that the same will happen to her.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 12:12 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
Cowpie1 wrote:
nursecosmo wrote:
All useless if you don't have access to an outlet.


Wow! Has internet, but is off the grid! Neat!


Alright smartypants. Of course I plug ion at home. I don't have anywhere to plug in at work and I work nights. There have been a couple of times last year when it wouldn't start. Now that my wife works nights, I'm concerned that the same will happen to her.
With that, you definitely don't want a 15W weight oil. A good battery, 0W-40 oil, good glow plugs, clean filters, winterized fuel are all necessary when you have no electrical access. I will go out for lunch in the middle of the work day to get some more heat back in the engine before it's completely cooled off -- that helps in a cold evening start as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:04 pm 
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Some need to revisit the standing heater for the KJ. Set it and forget it. Nice warm vehicle without running the engine.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:36 pm 
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jinstall wrote:
SLS wrote:
jinstall
It's under more information: https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx
I'm a CRD owner and have been following the LOST forum for a long time to learn more about what other CRD owners are doing and using to improve their Jeeps. In fact I never heard of AMSOIL until I read about it in this fourm. Then I contacted another Jeep CRD owner who was using it and decided to use it myself based on others experience. I'm not a big forum or blog user. It is hard to not correct misinformation. I don't care what product others use however I think it is important they have the correct information to make an informed decision. I hope this is helpful. :)


OK then why doesn't Jeep recommend it? They did recommend BP and Mobile 1 to me. Personally I would rather use BP or Castrol but neither provide the oil I need here in the US.


All of the synthetics are good choices. The differences are almost in the ream of the arcane. You will get arguments on 4 Ball Wear Tests and such, but the differences are minor. All of the major brand synthetics are fine choices. Go with cost and availability.

The Group IV synthetics (Amsoil, Mobil, Royal Purple, etc) are made thru gas to liquification using primarily Natural Gas. They are more uniform in structure. The Group III synthetics (Rotella, Delo, Kendall, Castrol, etc) are extremely hydrocracked mineral base oils. The gap in quality has closed considerably between the two in the last few years. I doubt if those outside testing facilities would actually be able to confirm any difference in how they perform. I use a Group IV/Group III blend from Schaeffer in my CRD. I use a Group III/Group II blend from a regional supplier in my Cummins ISX. Haven't noticed any difference in oil samples, performance, or fuel mileage from my choices than when I used Amsoil products in either vehicle.

Get the oil that makes you feel ok. Shell Rotella, Delvac 1, Castrol, Chevron Delo, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Conoco/Kendall, etc. They are all solid products. Just make sure your choice is a diesel rated product. There are 3 million commercial diesels on the road that use all the various products above and are doing just fine. No use spending anymore than you have to for oil, unless that makes you feel better.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:40 pm 
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Cowpie1 wrote:

All of the synthetics are good choices. The differences are almost in the ream of the arcane. You will get arguments on 4 Ball Wear Tests and such, but the differences are minor. All of the major brand synthetics are fine choices. Go with cost and availability.

The Group IV synthetics (Amsoil, Mobil, Royal Purple, etc) are made thru gas to liquification using primarily Natural Gas. They are more uniform in structure. The Group III synthetics (Rotella, Delo, Kendall, Castrol, etc) are extremely hydrocracked mineral base oils. The gap in quality has closed considerably between the two in the last few years. I doubt if those outside testing facilities would actually be able to confirm any difference in how they perform. I use a Group IV/Group III blend from Schaeffer in my CRD. I use a Group III/Group II blend from a regional supplier in my Cummins ISX. Haven't noticed any difference in oil samples, performance, or fuel mileage from my choices than when I used Amsoil products in either vehicle.

Get the oil that makes you feel ok. Shell Rotella, Delvac 1, Castrol, Chevron Delo, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Conoco/Kendall, etc. They are all solid products. Just make sure your choice is a diesel rated product. There are 3 million commercial diesels on the road that use all the various products above and are doing just fine. No use spending anymore than you have to for oil, unless that makes you feel better.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:41 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
Cowpie1 wrote:
nursecosmo wrote:
All useless if you don't have access to an outlet.


Wow! Has internet, but is off the grid! Neat!


Alright smartypants. Of course I plug ion at home. I don't have anywhere to plug in at work and I work nights. There have been a couple of times last year when it wouldn't start. Now that my wife works nights, I'm concerned that the same will happen to her.



Sorry! Just had to take the plunge! Maybe the Mad Cow kicking in! UFO had good advice.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 1:51 pm 
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Good info here, and some silliness. I agree that synthetics are not justifiable without bypass filtering and very long or indefinite OCI. So natural oils are fine, but (in our case) what about the weight? That's really the question. Can we run 15-40 in these motors (in an appropriate climate)? I want to say yes, but I can't get by the fact that it isn't spec'd at all. Could it just be for mileage reasons?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:21 pm 
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Tinman wrote:
Good info here, and some silliness. I agree that synthetics are not justifiable without bypass filtering and very long or indefinite OCI. So natural oils are fine, but (in our case) what about the weight? That's really the question. Can we run 15-40 in these motors (in an appropriate climate)? I want to say yes, but I can't get by the fact that it isn't spec'd at all. Could it just be for mileage reasons?
Not knowing any better, I'm thinking the additive packages is what determines whether an oil meets a particular specification. Maybe non-synthetic oils have more consistent viscosity these days, but I'm not putting any oil in my engine that doesn't meet the requirements.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 9:01 pm 
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Good thinking :!:
I was just talking to someone tonight that saw an ad at a local Ford dealership for a cheap oil change. Except they forgot to replace the oil.
Cheap isn't always the bargain one anticipates in the end.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 9:06 pm 
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Tinman wrote:
Good info here, and some silliness. I agree that synthetics are not justifiable without bypass filtering and very long or indefinite OCI. So natural oils are fine, but (in our case) what about the weight? That's really the question. Can we run 15-40 in these motors (in an appropriate climate)? I want to say yes, but I can't get by the fact that it isn't spec'd at all. Could it just be for mileage reasons?


I might have no problem running a 15w40 in warm climate. The first number of any oil, 5w 10w 15w, etc has only to do with the winter flow rating. They are ALL 40 weight oils. There are smaller oil ports in the 2.8L, so running a 15w40 without pan heater in cooler climate is probably not a great idea. True, the lower winter rated 40 weights will offer slightly better fuel mileage. But then, If that is what someone was really after then getting a 5w30 synthetic diesel oil would work also. Amsoil has a 5w30 HDD. The synthetics have an advantage over a mineral oil, but then, there are characteristics to mineral oil that are a benefit as well. This is why I usually run a blend. The only problem with a blend, is knowing the percentage of synthetic in the blend. It can be anywhere from a few % up to 25% for normal retail brands. I get a blend from a local distributor, who has oil blended for them to their specs, that is 40% synthetic and is a 15w40 rated oil but has surprisingly similar characteristics to most any 5w40 I have seen. I can get it for $9 a gallon and it performs good in cold weather, have run it down to -20F with no problems. I actually experience a little less oil consumption from this blend and the used oil analysis looks as good as any higher priced synthetic I tried. Haven't noticed any fuel mileage change except the normal winter fuel issues.

The big problem in all this is price. The marketing gurus can sure make oils sound like they are the cure to everything and then rape your bank account in pricing. In the real world, things are not like they are on paper. While all the oils being offered are good, I just can't seem to justify blowing any more than I have to for oil. But then, I go thru almost two 55 gallon drums of oil a year. A lot of my own real world testing of the boutique oils hasn't really impressed me. Just a lot of fluff and a high price for the boutique oils. Now, if you are running a top fuel race car, it might make some difference. Modern engine oils have really improved the last few years, mostly because of the new emissions diesel engines. The formally large differences between the high end synthetics and traditional dino oil has narrowed considerably and is being more blurred each time there is a new spec that comes out.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 1:41 pm 
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I think if I was going to gamble I would rather do it in Las Vegas. 8)
The thicker the oil at start up the longer it takes to start protecting the engine from wear. I think 100% synthetic oils do a little better job on reducing engine start-up wear. There is even an oil pre-charger that reduces dry-engine starting by creating oil pressure before you start the engine.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 1:54 pm 
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SLS wrote:
I think if I was going to gamble I would rather do it in Las Vegas. 8)
The thicker the oil at start up the longer it takes to start protecting the engine from wear. I think 100% synthetic oils do a little better job on reducing engine start-up wear. There is even an oil pre-charger that reduces dry-engine starting by creating oil pressure before you start the engine.


Well, that would work. I often wonder whether it is really necessary and just overkill. Staying with the proper add pack is a solid plan, but, I am not sure that pre-chargers and such actually give any return on investment. I have run a lot of diesels over the years without such things and have gotten better than average life cycles out of them. 100% synthetic is a personal preference. I can only attest to my experience with various synthetics.... I have run one heck of a lot of used oil samples in a lot of gas and diesel engines on 100% sythetics, 100% dino, and a blend of the two. I have seen no advantage to the addition cost of 100% synthetic. Oil samples were no better and, even though the synthetic held up longer, the difference wasn't proportional to the cost. But, I have seen some improvement over a straight dino by using a blend. Not a substantial difference, but an improvement just the same. Since blend price difference is not that much compared to the difference between dino and a 100% synthetic, it was a cost effective choice for me.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with someone choosing a 100% synthetic. I just question why someone is doing it. Are they doing it because it provides the protection and performance they want, or are they just using it because a fancy printed graph in a glossy ad says it is better or because a certain race car driver endorses it? How many that choose a synthetic actually run oil sample tests to see how various oils are doing in their particular engine and can show that it is worth the cost over a dino oil? Running an oil to the extended drains claimed by the oil manufacturer may or may not work in their particular engine. So what if the oil manufacturer backs it up with some sort of warranty, that is little consolation when you are on the side of the road with a blown engine. You are still out more money and time.

I learned a long time ago not to take any advertiser's claims on products too seriously. Find out for sure what works best in your particular engine and then stick with it.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 4:21 pm 
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I have given this a lot of thought and as much as I'd like to run a non-syn oil and run CI-4+, I think I'll just stay with the Rotella - T at 10K intervals. If I were to run the 15-40 I'd worry every time the truck was cranked in cold temps w/o being plugged up. So I'll stick with 5-40 and not worry. I could use AMSoil 3000 5-40 and keep CI-4+ but it just plain cost too much.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 5:20 pm 
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Cowpie1 wrote:
jinstall wrote:
SLS wrote:
jinstall
It's under more information: https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx
I'm a CRD owner and have been following the LOST forum for a long time to learn more about what other CRD owners are doing and using to improve their Jeeps. In fact I never heard of AMSOIL until I read about it in this fourm. Then I contacted another Jeep CRD owner who was using it and decided to use it myself based on others experience. I'm not a big forum or blog user. It is hard to not correct misinformation. I don't care what product others use however I think it is important they have the correct information to make an informed decision. I hope this is helpful. :)


OK then why doesn't Jeep recommend it? They did recommend BP and Mobile 1 to me. Personally I would rather use BP or Castrol but neither provide the oil I need here in the US.


All of the synthetics are good choices. The differences are almost in the ream of the arcane. You will get arguments on 4 Ball Wear Tests and such, but the differences are minor. All of the major brand synthetics are fine choices. Go with cost and availability.

The Group IV synthetics (Amsoil, Mobil, Royal Purple, etc) are made thru gas to liquification using primarily Natural Gas. They are more uniform in structure. The Group III synthetics (Rotella, Delo, Kendall, Castrol, etc) are extremely hydrocracked mineral base oils. The gap in quality has closed considerably between the two in the last few years. I doubt if those outside testing facilities would actually be able to confirm any difference in how they perform. I use a Group IV/Group III blend from Schaeffer in my CRD. I use a Group III/Group II blend from a regional supplier in my Cummins ISX. Haven't noticed any difference in oil samples, performance, or fuel mileage from my choices than when I used Amsoil products in either vehicle.

Get the oil that makes you feel ok. Shell Rotella, Delvac 1, Castrol, Chevron Delo, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Conoco/Kendall, etc. They are all solid products. Just make sure your choice is a diesel rated product. There are 3 million commercial diesels on the road that use all the various products above and are doing just fine. No use spending anymore than you have to for oil, unless that makes you feel better.


I feel ya but I just can't reach ya. Jeep said these were my options and I am using them. Never have any of the other oils been recommended. Mobile 1, BP and MB branded oil. I went in to one Jeep dealer in the US and they recommended Quaker State 4X4 high mileage to me, I turned around and left.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:17 pm 
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No problem by me. One has to use what they feel comfortable with. I don't expect anyone to rush out and do what I am doing. I am probably wrong anyway. I just haven't seen enough difference in actual real world use in my vehicles to spend large sums of money for boutique synthetics. They do work, I am not questioning that. But do they work better in proportion to the increased cost? Not in anything I have tested them in. Oil weight can be an issue as can the additive package, but brand names don't impress me anymore. Especially since I have learned about the commercial sources of base oils and additive packages. In my case, I would rather buy a good performing oil that does not have layers of marketing, sponsorship of race cars, or T.V. ads during the Superbowl included in their pricing scheme. Oil sample results, reliability, and quality can be had in lessor name oils, especially regional suppliers that cater to commericial use. Even though they don't make claims of being the best thing in lubrication since the days of wagon trains, have paid OEM's for the priveledge of being recommended by them, paid for the right to claim to be the "offical oil of...", or pay for shelf space in the traditional sales outlets, they use the same base oils and additive packages as the "big" boys. Shell, for instance, does not make it's own oil base stocks directly. The do own a share of Motiva, which is the largest base oil stock producer in the world. Motiva supplies oil base stocks to wide variety of companies that then slap their own name on the bottle. Just like Infineum is the largest supplier of additive packages for the North American market. Most all oils out there get some or most or their stocks from these producers, blend it how they want, and slap a label on it. Even then, they have to stay within certain parameters to follow API standards for grade offering such as SF, CJ-4, etc. If they stray from the standards, they take legal risks.

When I tanked fuel, the same could be said for brand names. Conoco, Shell, Sinclair, Sunoco, whatever..... the local stations get ALL their fuel from the very same terminals. The terminal gets it's fuel from a variety of refineries. Maybe an additive included at the time of the fuel loading on the tanker, but it was the same fuel none the less. I would haul fuel to a variety of stations and business', but it all came from the same terminals.

But, by all means, buy what you feel comfortable with. I am not going to down anyone for using whatever brand. That is what I love about the free enterprise system.... a wide selection of products and brands from which to choose. But I am in a business that consumes a sizeable quantity of fuel and oil. I am not inclined to pay large sums for just a brand name and OEM's can't void warranty obligations if the end user chooses another brand. Cummins, for instance, only recommends Valvoline in their engines (only reason I can find for this is because Cummins has commercial interests with Ashland oil which markets Valvoline). I have never used Valvoline and have had a variety of warranty work done in numerous Cummins engines with nary an issue that I used another brand of oil. And these are engines that cost $25,000 to replace.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:05 pm 
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Cowpie1 wrote:
No problem by me. One has to use what they feel comfortable with. I don't expect anyone to rush out and do what I am doing. I am probably wrong anyway. I just haven't seen enough difference in actual real world use in my vehicles to spend large sums of money for boutique synthetics. They do work, I am not questioning that. But do they work better in proportion to the increased cost? Not in anything I have tested them in. Oil weight can be an issue as can the additive package, but brand names don't impress me anymore. Especially since I have learned about the commercial sources of base oils and additive packages. In my case, I would rather buy a good performing oil that does not have layers of marketing, sponsorship of race cars, or T.V. ads during the Superbowl included in their pricing scheme. Oil sample results, reliability, and quality can be had in lessor name oils, especially regional suppliers that cater to commericial use. Even though they don't make claims of being the best thing in lubrication since the days of wagon trains, have paid OEM's for the priveledge of being recommended by them, paid for the right to claim to be the "offical oil of...", or pay for shelf space in the traditional sales outlets, they use the same base oils and additive packages as the "big" boys. Shell, for instance, does not make it's own oil base stocks directly. The do own a share of Motiva, which is the largest base oil stock producer in the world. Motiva supplies oil base stocks to wide variety of companies that then slap their own name on the bottle. Just like Infineum is the largest supplier of additive packages for the North American market. Most all oils out there get some or most or their stocks from these producers, blend it how they want, and slap a label on it. Even then, they have to stay within certain parameters to follow API standards for grade offering such as SF, CJ-4, etc. If they stray from the standards, they take legal risks.

When I tanked fuel, the same could be said for brand names. Conoco, Shell, Sinclair, Sunoco, whatever..... the local stations get ALL their fuel from the very same terminals. The terminal gets it's fuel from a variety of refineries. Maybe an additive included at the time of the fuel loading on the tanker, but it was the same fuel none the less. I would haul fuel to a variety of stations and business', but it all came from the same terminals.

But, by all means, buy what you feel comfortable with. I am not going to down anyone for using whatever brand. That is what I love about the free enterprise system.... a wide selection of products and brands from which to choose. But I am in a business that consumes a sizeable quantity of fuel and oil. I am not inclined to pay large sums for just a brand name and OEM's can't void warranty obligations if the end user chooses another brand. Cummins, for instance, only recommends Valvoline in their engines (only reason I can find for this is because Cummins has commercial interests with Ashland oil which markets Valvoline). I have never used Valvoline and have had a variety of warranty work done in numerous Cummins engines with nary an issue that I used another brand of oil. And these are engines that cost $25,000 to replace.


Very nice post.

I once worked for Ashland Oil as a co-op, and their headquarters were near my home town. Ashland Inc. used to be comprised of 4 units which they operated as independent companies: Ashland Oil, Ashland Chemical, Valvoline, and APAC (Ashland Paving and Construction). During the time I was there, Ashland Oil was spun into a joint venture with Marathon Oil, who now owns the whole thing outright. Ashland Oil used to be the primary supplier of base stock oil to Valvoline. I was actually part of a project in the pilot plant there whose aim was to supply them with other base stocks having various viscosities. I suspect they get the their bases off the open market now. As far as I know, the remaining structure of the company is still largely the same.

The whole composition of motor oils gets tossed around here a lot. The base stock is pretty much what governs the viscosity profile. The rate of change of the viscosity versus the temperature is less for synthetics. The base oil will do some lubrication, but its primary functions are the be a carrier for the additive package and act as a coolant for the internal parts. The additives do the rest. The additives play a major role in making the oil package a good lubricant. As pointed out before, other additives are present to protect against corrosion, some act as detergents, and others are acid/base buffers. Some of them are there to modify viscosity, and for these, they are likely intended to increase the viscosity. It's very difficult to add something in a small percentage and have it reduce the viscosity appreciably, but one can add things in small percentages that can induce a build in viscosity easily. None of the companies are going to tell us which particular additives and how much are used. It may...and I stress...may... be that when one buys a synthetic, they could be getting a better additives package, or "higher" levels of them which may or may not make an appreciable difference versus a conventional oil. The only argument I would ever make in debate of choosing a synthetic over a conventional oil is that the cold flow properties are better. Because they control the structures of the molecules to a decent degree...i.e. making them all branched hydrocarbons...the gel point of the oil is going to be a bit lower. In a conventional base stock, the individual molecules will vary relative to the source of the crude oil used in the feedstock. It's really a distillation cut, so there isn't any control over the actual molecules themselves, so there is a possibility of having a high proportion of linear molecules that will wax out or gel sooner than branched hydrocarbons. So the moral of the story, probably should be, if you live somewhere that gets really cold and you have a lot of cold-starts, then you probably should be using a 0W or 5W synthetic. If you live somewhere that's predominately warm or if you start-up and then drive for hours on end, then use whatever you want, synthetic...conventional...just something that is intended to be a motor oil.

I am curious about the Cummins-Valvoline partnership. It could be that Cummins works with Valvoline to make sure they have additives they like formulated into the oil. Or it could be a cross-promotion type of thing. In the end, it shouldn't matter since actually having oil, in the correct amount, is the most important thing.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 4:47 am 
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Cowpie1 wrote:
No problem by me. One has to use what they feel comfortable with. I don't expect anyone to rush out and do what I am doing. I am probably wrong anyway. I just haven't seen enough difference in actual real world use in my vehicles to spend large sums of money for boutique synthetics. They do work, I am not questioning that. But do they work better in proportion to the increased cost? Not in anything I have tested them in. Oil weight can be an issue as can the additive package, but brand names don't impress me anymore. Especially since I have learned about the commercial sources of base oils and additive packages. In my case, I would rather buy a good performing oil that does not have layers of marketing, sponsorship of race cars, or T.V. ads during the Superbowl included in their pricing scheme. Oil sample results, reliability, and quality can be had in lessor name oils, especially regional suppliers that cater to commericial use. Even though they don't make claims of being the best thing in lubrication since the days of wagon trains, have paid OEM's for the priveledge of being recommended by them, paid for the right to claim to be the "offical oil of...", or pay for shelf space in the traditional sales outlets, they use the same base oils and additive packages as the "big" boys. Shell, for instance, does not make it's own oil base stocks directly. The do own a share of Motiva, which is the largest base oil stock producer in the world. Motiva supplies oil base stocks to wide variety of companies that then slap their own name on the bottle. Just like Infineum is the largest supplier of additive packages for the North American market. Most all oils out there get some or most or their stocks from these producers, blend it how they want, and slap a label on it. Even then, they have to stay within certain parameters to follow API standards for grade offering such as SF, CJ-4, etc. If they stray from the standards, they take legal risks.

When I tanked fuel, the same could be said for brand names. Conoco, Shell, Sinclair, Sunoco, whatever..... the local stations get ALL their fuel from the very same terminals. The terminal gets it's fuel from a variety of refineries. Maybe an additive included at the time of the fuel loading on the tanker, but it was the same fuel none the less. I would haul fuel to a variety of stations and business', but it all came from the same terminals.

But, by all means, buy what you feel comfortable with. I am not going to down anyone for using whatever brand. That is what I love about the free enterprise system.... a wide selection of products and brands from which to choose. But I am in a business that consumes a sizeable quantity of fuel and oil. I am not inclined to pay large sums for just a brand name and OEM's can't void warranty obligations if the end user chooses another brand. Cummins, for instance, only recommends Valvoline in their engines (only reason I can find for this is because Cummins has commercial interests with Ashland oil which markets Valvoline). I have never used Valvoline and have had a variety of warranty work done in numerous Cummins engines with nary an issue that I used another brand of oil. And these are engines that cost $25,000 to replace.


I feel ya Cowpie. The only reason I'm running M1 now is because it is the only one I can get in 0-30 I can't plug in at work and last year when the temp was
-32*, it wouldn't turn over fast enough to fire. I dump a bottle of Lucas ZDDP in it for the lower levels of additive packeges. During the summer months, I have been running Rotella 5-40 because it is good oil and it's cheap and easy to find (comparatively). Common sense can't be bought.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 4:59 am 
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Location: Wisconsin Northwoods
jinstall wrote:
I feel ya but I just can't reach ya. Jeep said these were my options and I am using them. Never have any of the other oils been recommended. Mobile 1, BP and MB branded oil. I went in to one Jeep dealer in the US and they recommended Quaker State 4X4 high mileage to me, I turned around and left.


By this reasoning, you are really courting death by using an unapproved brand of brake pads, non OEM style rotors, and very non OEM recomended shocks. OEM recomended means absolutley nothing. In many cases OEM recomended products are significantly lower in quality or durability (good luck getting Jeep to warranty some Moog ball joints).

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 11:00 am 
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Location: CANADA
Have to agree with the prior posts. I cannot justify spending $80.00+ doing my own oil changes using M1, Amsoil etc, when I can get DMO 0/40 for less than half the price with the same analysis results. The container mat not look as pretty but it's doing the same job. For any Canuks looking for a good lab try these guys http://www.fluidlife.com/

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 11:35 am 
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nursecosmo wrote:
jinstall wrote:
I feel ya but I just can't reach ya. Jeep said these were my options and I am using them. Never have any of the other oils been recommended. Mobile 1, BP and MB branded oil. I went in to one Jeep dealer in the US and they recommended Quaker State 4X4 high mileage to me, I turned around and left.


By this reasoning, you are really courting death by using an unapproved brand of brake pads, non OEM style rotors, and very non OEM recomended shocks. OEM recomended means absolutley nothing. In many cases OEM recomended products are significantly lower in quality or durability (good luck getting Jeep to warranty some Moog ball joints).


Nice generalization. The Jeep dealerin Germany installed Moog joints in the Jeep because they did not have any in the supply in Germany. So if thereis a failer on the Moog products it is covered by Jeep. We are speaking of oil and the effects on the engine. M1 is the only brand I have seen or found that addresses the issues of the EGR system.

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.


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