CRD quit, now just cranks but will not fire

kmaylone · **Posted:** Sat Jan 09, 2016 10:27 pm

Yours sounds like mine. I have posts on here...review and let me know your thoughts. Slowly working through codes...have the p0093 left to deal with. :5SHOTS:

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 09, 2016 11:18 pm

With the MPROP... Which way does it jump when you apply voltage to the pins? Plunger in or plunger out? I'd rig it with the plunger at the extreme of the non-voltage way, and try starting again. It may take a bit to push fuel up to the rail, but you *should* get plenty.

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

geordi wrote:

With the MPROP... Which way does it jump when you apply voltage to the pins? Plunger in or plunger out? I'd rig it with the plunger at the extreme of the non-voltage way, and try starting again. It may take a bit to push fuel up to the rail, but you *should* get plenty.

geordi - not sure because you cannot see the inner plunger with the way the cross holes are drilled. When I apply voltage you can feel the plunger move - presumably against the spring which would be toward the tip (away from the connector/magnet end). But it is possible the it pulls against the spring.

At this point the new one is going to be here tomorrow when the UPS man pulls up. I plan on tearing the old one back out today so I am ready to drop the new one in.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jan 10, 2016 1:33 pm

dhenderz wrote:

Update. Got the lift pump installed. Bled the system. Now I know air in the system and/or fuel supply is not the issue, although I didn't think that was the issue anyway. The replacement FCA got delayed and isn't showing up until Mon. Warm here today so I decided to go ahead and try putting the old FCA back in just for the heck of it. Still no start. It was worth a shot.

But in my routing around I did find another interesting issue. To get better access to put the FCA back into the CP3, I pulled the aluminum cast bracket that goes between the alternator and intake manifold off. Its just 3 bolts. I found that several wires in the bundle that routes behind the bracket had worn through thru and were arcing (clearly visible brown arc tracks). I will post pics in a min. But this got me to wondering if this arching might have caused (or is still causing) my issue. Does anyone recognize what these wires might go to based on color? I have checked every fuse on the left side of the IP and under the hood in the main fuse block in front of the battery. Nothing is blown. Are there any other fuses or fusible links hidden somewhere? Any thoughts on whether the arcing might have damaged the ECM?

Pics next -

That definitely could have damaged the ECU, but by taping those wires up nicely, you might be ok. Most times when someone ends up at the CP3, and they change it, it isn't the problem...
But, you're getting smoke now? Unless an injector is leaking, isn't this a sign that there was an injection event?

The ECU passes a signal through the alternator, so that is probably the wire that was shorting out, and it wasn't getting the input. My bet is the CP3 is fine. ECU might be fine too. Can you get it to build any fuel pressure now after cracking a line on the rail to bleed it? It doesn't take but a couple 7 second cranks to fill the rail, maybe 3 or 4 if the MPROP swap drained the CP3.

The alternator could be toast also from the short, if I'm thinking of the right wires.

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

Update. I am frustrated beyond belief. Got the new FCA/MPROP installed and still no start. Still virtually no fuel getting pumped up to the rail. Pulled the injector returns again. Crank - nothing coming out. Pulled the return off the end of the rail. Crank - nothing coming out. Pull the return from the CP3. Crank - tons of fuel. Between the pressure from the lift pump and the actual pumping action of the CP3 (presumably the low pressure side of the CP3), I can fill a 16oz water bottle with fuel in about 15seconds of cranking.

Again, tried pulling the connection off the FCA/MPROP which should divert 100% of the fuel to the high pressure side and build max pressure in the rail. Nada. 100psi in the rail according to the computer.

I am at my wits end with this Jeep. I've never had a vehicle this frustrating. Why in the world won't the CP3 pump any fuel to the rail? Why is everything being diverted right back to the tank?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 11, 2016 9:37 pm

All that is left is to pull the injection pump and send it off for testing or just get a used one from ebay.
Its possible that the problem is the cascade overflow valve. But you will probably have to pull the pump to replace it.

Item #6 in this diagram

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

I am considering the cascade overflow valve (cov). I saw the bosch part number listed here on this forum. They are available and not that expensive. Has anyone changed one? Do yiu have to pull the pump?

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flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 11, 2016 11:20 pm

Its visible on the outside of the pump, under a part of the aluminum inner timing cover.
You might be able to replace it without removing the pump.
But I have never done it before.

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

Made the decision to just bite the bullet and replace the CP3. Does someone have a good write up with hints/tips on the process of replacing the CP3? How long should I plan?

rankom · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2016 11:12 pm

what i would do is go to a local bosch fuel injection shop and explain what you did so far to detect the problem they would tell you if its necessary to remove the pump for testing or they might know a shortcut. it would be better to test your own pump rather than buying another used one.

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

I already purchased a brand new pump (not rebuilt). Going to tackle the install this weekend. I've reviewed the numerous writeups for timing belt replacement. Seems like the fuel pump replace should be easier since I don't need to pull the cam pulleys or the rear half of the belt housing. Anyone tackled this job?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2016 9:52 am

I dont think has posted about how to replace the CP3.
I'm pretty sure you will have to remove the sprocket to do it.
The sprocket is keyed to the CP3 so once you get the nut off it should pull off easily and then you can get to the bolts.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2016 8:05 pm

getting to some of the bolts is a complete SOB. And, you need the puller to get the sprocket off. I thought it was going to break when I was cranking away on the puller, it took a LOT of torque, and then it popped off like a bullet.

I had one CRD where someone had tried to remove the sprocket with a pry bar. It took a piece out of the sprocket, but it didn't budge it. It turned out that the poor guy had the pressure sensor wire and #4 injector wire swapped :5SHOTS:

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2016 8:23 pm

i never pull cp3 pump pulley , but i did 5.9 cummins from bosch p7100 inline pump ,i use steering wheel puller and hand tighten it and warmed up with torch just little bit and pulley just comes off easy ,

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

Got the frt cover off this afternoon. Inspecting the dealers work when thet changed the timing belt 1000miles ago. Everything looks fine except for the tensioner adjustment. This looks wrong to me. Thoughts? What is the process for readjusting? Loosen the one bolt and use a pin spanner to put more tension and then retighten the bolt?

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jan 14, 2016 7:04 pm

Looks to me like the f#@ked up the job and never tightened down the tensioner so you may have jumped time a bit. See the thread at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=83150&hilit=tensioner

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

I dont think it jumped. Their marks are still on the pulleys and they line up. Plus it was running great at least before it quit...

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dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

But just to be sure - and to double check. If i can pin the 2 cams thru the holes and pin the flywheel then everything is still in time correct?

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Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 14, 2016 7:40 pm

Yes, and in the current position there is still probably enough tension kind of, but it might have failed eventually. They definitely didn't do it properly.

pjigar · **Posted:** Fri Jan 15, 2016 12:16 pm

dhenderz wrote:

Got the frt cover off this afternoon. Inspecting the dealers work when thet changed the timing belt 1000miles ago. Everything looks fine except for the tensioner adjustment. This looks wrong to me. Thoughts? What is the process for readjusting? Loosen the one bolt and use a pin spanner to put more tension and then retighten the bolt?

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Yes. Loosen bolt, align the spring end between the notch using pin spanner and tighten the bolt.

CRD quit, now just cranks but will not fire

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