Last gear starts slipping, TC failure? *SOLVED*

Endurance · **Posted:** Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:34 pm

Hello everyone,

I knew it was just a matter of time before my transmission would blow up...
When I was on my way back home this afternoon, driving 60-65, my last gear (is that OD?) started slipping under load when I was going uphill.
It shifted down, but only a little, so that when I was going uphill with 60-65mph I had 2200rpm instead of 1800. I drive this road everyday, and this was
the first time my KJ did this.

So far I read almost every topic concerning TC failure, but I dont remember anyone having this kind of problem.
Im sure that if I go to the dealer and they drive it they will say its normal, just because they dont know any better and probably never driven a CRD.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Daniel

edit: Ok, Problem solved. After waiting for the parts and waiting to get it fixed (3 weeks), I finally picked it up today. The dealer performed the Pump/TC replacement TSB. When I first left the parking lot I was about to bring it back because the vehicle was running really odd and the engine almost stalled at the first stop sign. Since the engine was cold and I only drove about a mile I decided to give it some time to warm up. It kept almost stalling at the next traffic lights.

I got on the freeway to get over 50mph to see if Overdrive was finally fixed. It took a couple of seconds but OD surely kicked in and is working fine, as far as I can tell, since I only drove about 20 miles. It shifts and behaves really odd when driving slowly/stop and go, but I guess thats because the transmission has to learn. I'll update this thread in case it doesnt get better.

edit: Drove about 100 miles and its still almost stalling when coming to a stop. Transm. oil is low too so Im going to the dealer on monday, AGAIN.

edit:Spent about 1.5 hours at the dealership today. Of course, the transm. oil level was BELOW ADD which means some idiot didnt do his job. They filled it up and test drove it.This was the 4th time now that I had to go over there to fix the same problem. Well after I left the dealership I experienced a soft shudder at 55mph, but only once. Its running fine now so far, no more almost stalls, and OD works too. I hope this fixed the problem for good and I dont have to keep updating this

Oh yeah and after I got the LBJ recall done my Jeep started pulling to the right while driving, Tire store says it needs to be aligned. Dealership claims they have nothing to do with it, tires are bad. But, thats a whole different story.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:37 pm

300 rpm sounds more like the torque converter unlocking and slipping 300 more rpm. That should be normal...the 300 rpm difference. It could have been that you were driving into a headwind that caused the engine to "lug" a little and require a few more rpm's.

Endurance · **Posted:** Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:44 pm

Thanks for the input, but Im positive that this was not normal.
You know when you just hit 60mph and it locks up how the torque pushes you forward when you accelerate even just a little bit?
Well that "push" was practically gone, everytime I tried to keep it locked up it would slip.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:56 pm

Endurance wrote:

Hello everyone,

It shifted down, but only a little, so that when I was going uphill with 60-65mph I had 2200rpm instead of 1800. I drive this road everyday, and this was
the first time my KJ did this.

Daniel

If it shifted down, then 2200 RPM should be correct. Like DarbyWalters said, could be an added condition causing it. I know mine would downshift up a hill if running just above 60 MPH.

DZL_LOU · **Posted:** Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:23 am

Endurance wrote:

Thanks for the input, but Im positive that this was not normal.
You know when you just hit 60mph and it locks up how the torque pushes you forward when you accelerate even just a little bit?
Well that "push" was practically gone, everytime I tried to keep it locked up it would slip.

If you feel that it is not normal, have you checked the transmission fluid level while the engine is hot and idling?
According to posts from OldNavy, it is very sensitive to fluid level and should be right below the highest HOT marked hole when the transmission is hot and idling.
If your going to add fluid, check the owners manual. I think it states ATF+4 type fluid.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:17 am

DZL_LOU wrote:

If you feel that it is not normal, have you checked the transmission fluid level while the engine is hot and idling?
According to posts from OldNavy, it is very sensitive to fluid level and should be right below the highest HOT marked hole when the transmission is hot and idling.
If your going to add fluid, check the owners manual. I think it states ATF+4 type fluid.

When you check the tranny fluid you need to be on level ground, with the tranny in PARK and at normal temp such as after about a 10 mile drive when started cold.

Endurance · **Posted:** Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:20 am

Ok I will check this when I get home tonight. This morning on my way to school it did it again. I was in OD going 50+mph and whenever I wanted to accelerate it was slipping, just a little bit.

litton · **Posted:** Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:54 am

My TC doesn't like to stay locked when accelerating unless I'm doing at least 60 and better at over 65. It acts like my GC in that regard in that the tranny really wants to hold about 1800-2000 rpm and the TC will unlock to maintain the rpm.

Endurance · **Posted:** Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:22 pm

Checked the tranny fluid level and its perfectly fine. I think my problem is getting worse. Usually when I hit 50 mph it shifted in OD and was at about 1600 rpm, now its at 2000 rpm and stays there. Everytime I accelerate even a little bit the rpms go up 2000-2500 and the CRD has almost no power. The typical Diesel low end power in OD is just gone, it drives like a gasser in OD. I think I will bring it to the dealer on Monday and let them look at it.

Daniel

litton · **Posted:** Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:27 pm

A bit of the topic....but where did you get the "turbo diesel" badge?

Endurance · **Posted:** Wed Sep 27, 2006 7:35 pm

Got mine off ebay. Its a cummins diesel badge and I just used a knife to cut the C off. You can get in red lettering as well. It has 3M sticky tape on the back.

Daniel

edit: here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-Do ... enameZWDVW

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:47 pm

Mine has done what your talking about twice but it shifted up in a few seconds or so. By the way, our CRD's have two overdrive gear ratios and shifts into the second one at about 63 mph.

Endurance · **Posted:** Wed Sep 27, 2006 11:07 pm

Drove another 60 miles since last post. Now, whenever it shifts into OD at 50mph and I accelerate a little, the vehicle rocks back and forth very slightly, and you can see the rpm needle go up and down a little. It does the same when it hits the last OD gear at around 60mph. And once again, absolutley no torque in OD, as soon as it needs more power to keep up, it slips/downshifts.

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

Endurance wrote:

Drove another 60 miles since last post. Now, whenever it shifts into OD at 50mph and I accelerate a little, the vehicle rocks back and forth very slightly, and you can see the rpm needle go up and down a little. It does the same when it hits the last OD gear at around 60mph. And once again, absolutley no torque in OD, as soon as it needs more power to keep up, it slips/downshifts.

Did you get it flashed recently? Maybe DC's voodoo is trying to protect the TC by babying it. Others have reported poor handling after a flash (I attribute it to the re-learn, but who knows). I know in my old manual, the first clue it gave you that the clutch was going was that it did not grab as good as it used to when under a load (going up a hill), that was followed by the car no longer being able to accerlerate in high gears or under load (plates slipped when the pressure got to much for it to hold them together). When that happened to me-- 5th will had no power at all-- so I had to downshift to 4th. When it was replaced, the friction material was worn away to the rivets-- drove it to the last drop. Not sure how (or if) this applies to a TQ, but it would seem feasible that it might be similar to what you are seeing.

On a related note, my CRD stuttered on me when I got on the accelerator. It started to accelerate, then just nose dived for a second in the middle of a shift, then shifted VERY hard, and took off like a bat out of heck. It felt like I slammed on the brake for a second. I was sure it was going to die right then, but it has not done that since then. It still hunts back and forth at 55-65 though. I am thinking about taking it back to the stealer... but I don't want to hear that "could not duplicate" line of garbage again. The ball joints need to be done anyway, so maybe it is time.

Endurance · **Posted:** Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:50 pm

I've done now flashes or TSB's so far. Everything is bone stock.

richardkf · **Joined:** Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:15 pm **Posts:** 167

Pablo wrote:

Endurance wrote:

Drove another 60 miles since last post. Now, whenever it shifts into OD at 50mph and I accelerate a little, the vehicle rocks back and forth very slightly, and you can see the rpm needle go up and down a little. It does the same when it hits the last OD gear at around 60mph. And once again, absolutley no torque in OD, as soon as it needs more power to keep up, it slips/downshifts.

Did you get it flashed recently? Maybe DC's voodoo is trying to protect the TC by babying it. Others have reported poor handling after a flash (I attribute it to the re-learn, but who knows). I know in my old manual, the first clue it gave you that the clutch was going was that it did not grab as good as it used to when under a load (going up a hill), that was followed by the car no longer being able to accerlerate in high gears or under load (plates slipped when the pressure got to much for it to hold them together). When that happened to me-- 5th will had no power at all-- so I had to downshift to 4th. When it was replaced, the friction material was worn away to the rivets-- drove it to the last drop. Not sure how (or if) this applies to a TQ, but it would seem feasible that it might be similar to what you are seeing.

On a related note, my CRD stuttered on me when I got on the accelerator. It started to accelerate, then just nose dived for a second in the middle of a shift, then shifted VERY hard, and took off like a bat out of heck. It felt like I slammed on the brake for a second. I was sure it was going to die right then, but it has not done that since then. It still hunts back and forth at 55-65 though. I am thinking about taking it back to the stealer... but I don't want to hear that "could not duplicate" line of garbage again. The ball joints need to be done anyway, so maybe it is time.

Mine performed poorly the first day of the re-flash. Day by day performance has been improving. There is a difference now in where the TQ engages and disengages and it was harsh the first two days. On day three now, performance is improving, shifts between gears are smoothing out and the engagement/disengagement of the TQ isn't so harsh either, but it does engage/disengage between 50 and 55 mph now, not 60-62 like before. Also, the first day, no black smoke cloud when accelerating hard, now even that is beginning to return.

Endurance · **Posted:** Thu Sep 28, 2006 6:33 pm

On my way home tonight the CEL came on, giving me P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction. I guess I will bring it to the dealer tomorrow.

Endurance · **Posted:** Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:50 am

Got it back today and all they did was TSB 18-009-06, the reflash. And it is still doing the same thing in OD, rpms are higher than normal and the typical low end Diesel Power is gone. Im going to bring it back asap.

But what would be the best thing to do? What should I tell them to do? Im sure that if you've never driven a CRD before it is hard to tell that there is something wrong with it, but if you would drive a working CRD in direct comparison it would be easy to tell.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Tue Oct 03, 2006 11:42 am

Endurance wrote:

Got it back today and all they did was TSB 18-009-06, the reflash. And it is still doing the same thing in OD, rpms are higher than normal and the typical low end Diesel Power is gone. Im going to bring it back asap.

But what would be the best thing to do? What should I tell them to do? Im sure that if you've never driven a CRD before it is hard to tell that there is something wrong with it, but if you would drive a working CRD in direct comparison it would be easy to tell.

They gave you an outdated TSB. Current one is 18-023-06, but possible they referenced the old service bulletin but gave you the current software. In either case, you need to take it back because they serviced it wrong or stickered it wrong. That sticker is a federal EPA requirement and has to match the installed software.

Endurance · **Posted:** Tue Oct 03, 2006 12:53 pm

Who would have thought, what a bunch of idiots. I have two stickers under the hood which say something about software upgrade, and the stickers have numbers on them, but no TSB number.

edit: just called them and they said "its just labeled wrong, the technicians have all the right sofrware versions back there." I also told them my problem wasnt fixed and they told me to bring it back and that I could drive with a technician and explain it to him. Highly doubt it he will be able to tell something is wrong though, unless he has driven a CRD before.

Last gear starts slipping, TC failure? SOLVED

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