My car just turned 18k and my filter is getting bad, before I buy a new one I would like to get a K&N but can not find one....any suggestions?

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Just stick with the OEM paper filters. Is this your first filter change? Hope not as the maximum change interval is every 12,500 miles.

1st filter change but have checked it about 5 times and banged it out. She is still pretty clean being I live in FL and most miles are highway. We do not have the dirt/dust down here like some states....too much rain so it washes away.

I'm with old navy, a K&N wouldn't be on my list of mods. I bought the diesel in the hopes of keeping it around for a while.
K&N filters weren't any good 25 years ago, they aren't any better now.

_________________
No one knows as much as all of us.

(a) there is no doubt that the stock air filter does a good job with minimal restriction of air flow, thus a K&N is a waste of time, plus it will indeed let through a LOT more dirt, also proven elsewhere in this and other forums

(b) K&N filters have a really, really bad rep on the VW TDIs for burning up the MAF sensor unless run virtually dry. I wouldn't wanna go there on a CRD.

(c) 18,000 miles is beyond the maximum filter change interval by 1/3. It OUGHT to be bad by now.

It is on its last legs but not real bad. I ran one on my Jetta TDI for 3 years and 75k miles and cleaned it twice and never replaced a MAF in that car. Trick is not to over oil them which most people do. Other trick is to run them like 35k before cleaning as well but I will stick with Fram or whatever I can find for the CRD. Best thing about the TDI was I paid $35 for it, replaced the stock one when I traded it in my CRD and sold it for $28 on E-Bay. Was hoping to do the same but will stay stock if you huys think they really suck.

I wouldn't do a K&N on a CRD. DCX factory rep told me it's just a bad idea. Lets way too much dirt past and combined with all the oil getting sucked into the intercooler will make a big dirty mess.

_________________
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Maximum is 12,500? Under both schedules? I don't follow the more rigorous schedule because I don't meet any of the criteria.

Yep. The more rigorous schedule says to inspect and replace as needed at 6250 miles, otherwise it must be replaced EVERY 12,500 miles (per the manual).

I was skeptical at first until I researched other diesel rigs. My father-in-laws 2000 Ford Excursion Powerstroke has a maximum change interval of 10,000 miles and that air filter is HUGE compared to ours.

_________________
'05 CRD Sport born on 06/20/05, bought on 9/23/05, L.O.S.T. on 9/27/05 - modding ever since:

Daystar 2.0" Lift, P255/70R16 Revos, Boulder Bars, Reese Front Hitch w/9k Hooks, Poison Spyder Rock Ring, MOPAR Skids/Bug Shield/Roof Rails/Mats, WARN Hitch Shackle(Rear), 10k Hitch Hook(Front), Custom Tilt/Slope Meter, Ammo Box Mod, Rotella T 5W-40.

I run a K&N. Who cares....... I just want to clean it and go. Plus if it gets wet it will still work fine with minimal restriction.

_________________
Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

Running this kind of filter is the next thing to running without a filter. If you do a oil sample the Si (silica which is dirt) will be hundreds of times higher then normal limit, I have seen the proof on VW diesels, MB diesels and one local CRD. If you still want to run the K&N then I would do the oil change every 2,500 to 3,000 miles at most to protect the engine, the turbo however will be sucking all kinds of grit through the blades. That means turbo failure at maybe 1/4 to maybe a third of the normal life. But hey you be the one paying for the thing and falling for the sales hipe.

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

I guess I was hoping there was a bit of EGT reduction and possible mileage gain with the K&N but it would be easier to just replace the filter instead of cleaning it. The ability to never buy a filter again was part of the idea also. I actually went about 7,000 miles last oil change but I travel 100miles+ per day highway. I might just go buy a cheap paper one and see if the performance/mileage results are the same as I experience with the K&N. Thanks for the input.

_________________
Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

Another option and what i've bought http://www.sprinterstore.com/air_filtration.htm

I live close to Upscale and was able to speak to John (owner) and get the low-down on the ProGuard 7 filter, Diesel Power Tuner and his exhaust system. In regards to the filter he told me that the oil used on it is different then K&N oil and was designed to not effect MAP and other sensors. It also has better filtering ability and appears to be a better product. John, as a small business owner firmly stands behind it, he asctually worked with AEM to create a filter for the Sprinter vans.

For me, I've seen a small increase in mileage and a seat-of-the-pants boost feel. I'm happy with it, but if I was in a dusty environment versus the rain forest then I'd throw the OEM one back in just for safety.

Hope this helps or doesn't add to much fuel to the fire.

Chris

_________________
2005 Silver CRD Sport
GDE Hot and Tranny Tunes, Suncoast, Trango, Provent, Magnaflow, Cummins Lift Pump, SAMCO, SEGR
Al's A-Arms, Frankenlift w/790+3 clevis rings, 4.10s, Eaton E-Locker, Skid Row & Mopar Skids, RRO Super-Sliders
ARB Bull Bar, KC Daylighters, Rebuilt Warn MX6085 w/125' Synthetic line, 265/70/16 Cooper Discoverer STT & Moabs

Totally wrong information. My CRD maintenance schedule under schedule "A" says to change it at 25, 000. My 02 Powerstroke says to run the filter until the filter minder tells you to change it. Doing other than that is a waste, according to my Ford manual.

First filter change, i replaced the OEM with a True Flow 35200 Foam Filter. Heard some people talk about it in the forums and checked out their site. I liked their data on how while still keeping air flow clean, the filter will still have good air flow as it gets dirty, compared to stock. When it came in and i examined it, I could tell that it would filter better than a K&N that my brother uses. haven't had any problems or mileage drop. I check it once in awhile and can see no problems... except its catching alot of bugs!!! new driving through arkansas was a bad idea.

Going to change the oil soon and send in a sample in. I guess that will be the final test.

How many miles of the oil tested will the filter have been on the vehicle? If only half of the miles on the oil is with the filter then you will need to take that in to account and double the Si amount reported in the test to give you a real idea of how much worse it would be if run the full miles. My Si at last oil sample was 27, and normal would 12 or less. I discovered the lid of the airbox not fully sealed about a week after it had beed removed and I assumed that is what caused the high Si reading. Soot was also high (. due to bad EGR that was replaced about a week after the sample was taken, I replaced the oil filter and topped up with fresh qt of oil. I will change it at the 10,000 mile mark.

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

did my last oil change and filter replacement at the same time.

Well, FL does not have dirt and dust, but Arizona sure does. My last filter lasted 8000 miles. That was it. The back side was clean as could be, but the front was nasty. When I banged the filter on the garbage can-- sand went everywhere. The CRD intake really sucks crud into it. I think the gasser airbox mod is a better use of money than the KN filter. What ever you do-- if you drive through the dirt-- keep an eye on the filter. The stock one stops the crud--- but that engine sucks alot of crud into the filter.