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 Post subject: Re: High idle switch on CRD?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 11:31 pm 
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Location: Kennewick, wa
Sounds like you need a GDE tune with the high idle feature, he can make these things do anything, I have a customer with the high idle feature tuned in so it idles @1200 when the temp is below 40 and the coolant temp is below 180 and if your foot is off the brake and throttle and it's in park, it makes warmups much faster, the exhaust brake tune is sweet too, I had him develop it for for me so when you turn the overdrive off and the APP is at 0 it actuates the vanes in the turbo just like the cummins does for exhaust braking, it also helps with warmup. When I built a rig for my pastors wife I had the high idle tuned in and it kicks off at 120 degrees as I wanted. GDE ROCKS, he can do almost anything!


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 Post subject: Re: High idle switch on CRD?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:34 pm 
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Location: Utah
My66dodge wrote:
Sounds like you need a GDE tune with the high idle feature, he can make these things do anything, I have a customer with the high idle feature tuned in so it idles @1200 when the temp is below 40 and the coolant temp is below 180 and if your foot is off the brake and throttle and it's in park, it makes warmups much faster, the exhaust brake tune is sweet too, I had him develop it for for me so when you turn the overdrive off and the APP is at 0 it actuates the vanes in the turbo just like the cummins does for exhaust braking, it also helps with warmup. When I built a rig for my pastors wife I had the high idle tuned in and it kicks off at 120 degrees as I wanted. GDE ROCKS, he can do almost anything!


Is the exhaust brake RPM based or is it actually trigger by OD off? I had experimented with this on my tune by setting the vanes to close above 2600 rpm and 0 throttle and while it worked(the vanes closed and I made boost at 0 throttle), I didnt find that it did a whole lot. I've test driven a Colorado Duramax and found that it's exhaust brake was a bit more effective. I believe this may be due to the fact that they have an electronic actuator and no stop screw so they can really close the vanes up tight.

The vanes should already be closed during warm up, or at least bumped up against the stop screw on the turbo. I had also played with keeping them open during idle and there is a noticeable difference in the exhaust sound. Very gurgly.

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 Post subject: Re: High idle switch on CRD?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:59 pm 
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bucklanddj wrote:
I'm interested in a high idle for my crd as im in the vehicle all day even in mid winter, which right now is at -30 degrees celcius. when I have to idle it, it actually cools down to the point where it blows cool air. I find i have to manually rev it to 1200 rpm to get the temp back up so warm air is blowing.


The idle can be set in the tune for both Neutral/Park as well as drive. Right now mine idles in park at 1200 at lower coolant temperatures and drops to 850 RPM once close to operating temp. I also have it set to 850 in gear so that it helps get the turbo spooled up off the line since I am at higher elevation. Up at 11,000' it tends to be pretty laggy.

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 Post subject: Re: High idle switch on CRD?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2019 12:05 pm 
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My last XJ (2000 Limited, 4.0, AW4, NP242) ended up having the factory high idle switch installed; this was an option on police-package models. Doing so brought RPMs at idle up from around 800 to 1100, and was useful in two situations:

  • Extended running of electronic (mostly radio) equipment
  • Combatting heat soak while stopped and idling in desert (120°F) temperatures

Obviously this isn't a direct parallel to the KJ, but there are some similarities in terms of theory of operation. Taking your points in relation to those:

If your main concern is coolant temperature (and thus cabin heat) in Winter, I'd suggest checking your cooling system first, and definitely consider upgrading your thermostat; the HDS Model 001 is a good choice as you can run a thermostat that's significantly warmer than the factory 170°F unit. In the -30°C temperatures you're talking about, doing so may be necessary to keep the coolant at a temperature that can retain enough heat to keep both the engine and cabin warm.

Also, have you tried blocking the grille? I didn't see mention of that in your earlier post, but, if you haven't, may be a good first step to investigate.

As wwdiesel mentioned earlier, the Webasto heater might be worth looking into. You're going to lose a lot of coolant heat while parked, and finding somewhere to plug in the block heater isn't always a possibility so being able to heat it without need for a power outlet would be a huge plus. I also question the effectiveness of the factory block heater in -30°C weather - it'll probably work, but take forever to generate a useful amount of heat.

As regards electrical loads: high idle can help with that, but it will obviously do so at the expense of higher fuel consumption. Your call on whether or not that's something that should factor into your considerations, but given the coolant issues those should probably be given priority.

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