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i have 10k on the crd and i guess it's time for the mann provent install. where do i order it from and does it come with diy instructions? what does it do to the warranty? thanks for the help.

I'm trying to search too but 2.3 million threads mention it. Thats how I found this thread was by searching. I'll be happy to post the resulting thread in here when I find it - but ive been searching for about 20 minutes. The links to external sites in many of the provent threads are toast now.
-c

Here's a few changes I made with my setup. I used clear plastic lines for a couple reasons.

First, if you use heater hose you run the risk of the oil seeping into the rubber and over time weakening the hose. I chose plastic so that the oily goo would not soak in.

Second, It helps your case with the dealership as they see the clear plastic turn black coming from the CCV but clear going into the intake of the turbo. This way they are less likely to scream "void warrany".

I took the provent into Home Depot with me to make sure that I did not incorrectly confuse any measurements of the fittings with the ID and OD. So I tried on the fittings right there instead of running the risk of buying the wrong ones. "Measure twice, Cut Once"

DZL_LOU,

I'm about to go "legal" with a Provent. How is your gasket maker holding up? Anything you would have done differently?

So much for my "I only need a rise in the hose at the CCV output" theory. Your tubing is all up-hill toward the ProVent and it's all black goo.

Is it as simple as it looks? Just flex tubing to and from and just set the Provent loose in that spot??? If it is, I should have done that a while ago...

Zonie wrote:

DZL_LOU,

I'm about to go "legal" with a Provent. How is your gasket maker holding up? Anything you would have done differently?

alljeep wrote:

Yes, hindsight is always 20/20.
Here's what I will do differently if I can physically get some time on my schedule!

There is only limited space in the KJ for the Provent cannister. If you could find a lower spot than where I have it in my picture the better. I'm going to investigate the small real estate behind the battery. The lower positioning with respect to the CCV would help the flow from the CCV to the cannister. Note the 2 inches of solid black coloration immediately after the CCV in the hose, this is where some of that oil pools that can't make it up the tube.
So some of that oily crap is actually falling back into the crank case, it's not much, but better than going straight into my turbo as was the original OEM setup!

Second, if you have the luxury of going to a professional shop that can bend and cut automotive rubber hose to your spec then you can get the setup looking real custom and not worry getting kinks in the hose. Notice that the hoses I have are making gradual turns because a kink can form in them otherwise.
Professional bent hose can get you the "gradient" you need for positioning the cannister in a better place and possibly even hiding it from plain view.

I find that about 10K for me is the limit on the filter in the cannister. So it's about time again to call the boys down in Louisianna for another filter.

Zonie wrote:

DZL_LOU,

... If you could find a lower spot than where I have it in my picture the better. I'm going to investigate the small real estate behind the battery. The lower positioning with respect to the CCV would help the flow from the CCV to the cannister...

MACKJ

That's a real clean and proper setup. The lines flow very nicely and I like the positioning of the filter. Those "mandrel bends" you have on the metal pipes is a nice finishing touch.
Also, I was equally impressed the clean engine bay!

Well time to reposition the filter this coming weekend! I better schedule that on MRS. DZL_LOU's events calendar so that I can have sometime to myself.

MACKJ,

That is one of the best looking Provent installs I've seen. Excellent work!

Ranger1 wrote:

MACKJ,

That is one of the best looking Provent installs I've seen. Excellent work!

Cheers mate. I aim to please. Patent pending... :wink:

God knows when you move the steering wheel all the parts on the WHOLE car need to be mirror images of eachother or it just wouldn't ever work right. :roll:

you know I bet his engine spins backwards too. :-)r

Author:	qdog [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:32 pm ]
Post subject:	mann provent?
i have 10k on the crd and i guess it's time for the mann provent install. where do i order it from and does it come with diy instructions? what does it do to the warranty? thanks for the help.

Author:	DZL_LOU [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:55 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: mann provent?
qdog wrote: i have 10k on the crd and i guess it's time for the mann provent install. where do i order it from and does it come with diy instructions? what does it do to the warranty? thanks for the help. There are several historical threads discussing this. Let the search function become your friend. I purchased mine from http://www.reliableindustries.com. Several threads on here will show you how to install it with pictures. If you get good techs at your dealership they will understand the value of what your doing and it will not be a warranty issue. Mine have declared that it will never be a warranty issue. With suggestions from this board, I installed mine with clear hoses so that the average service writer could see that oily film coming into the filter and clean hoses leading into the turbo intake.

Author:	ccattie [ Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:55 am ]
Post subject:
I'm trying to search too but 2.3 million threads mention it. Thats how I found this thread was by searching. I'll be happy to post the resulting thread in here when I find it - but ive been searching for about 20 minutes. The links to external sites in many of the provent threads are toast now. -c

Author:	GoghUA [ Sun Dec 03, 2006 11:45 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I'm trying to search too but 2.3 million threads mention it. Thats how I found this thread was by searching. I'll be happy to post the resulting thread in here when I find it - but ive been searching for about 20 minutes. The links to external sites in many of the provent threads are toast now. -c I'd have to say that I agree... I can find lots of information on this board, but when it comes to finding what I need, it is difficult as the search functionality here leaves a bit to be desired. Specifically regarding the Mann+Hummel Provent, here is a link to it: http://www.reliableindustries.com/catal ... rovent.php I have been planning to order this for some time, but the lack of information has probably delayed my purchase. So here are my remaining questions... 1) How much does it cost? 2) How exactly do I order one? I know that Reliable Industries has an 800 number, but if you open the PDF on their site, there are a bunch of questions on page 8 that I don't know the answer to. 3) Installation. All the threads I have seen on here are quite lacking on details (such as parts lists, pictures, etc.) although perhaps I am missing something? Anyway, I guess I am spoiled because I am used to boards like www.camaroz28.com and www.clubgp.com where the search capabilities are better and there are a lot more tutorials and how-to's that are easily available. Does anyone here maintain a list of links to tutorials / how-to's?

Author:	DZL_LOU [ Sun Dec 03, 2006 12:08 pm ]
Post subject:
Mann-Hummel Provent will run you about $130 call them for price quote. The Provent 200 is rated for up to 200hp on any diesel. The boys in Louisiana will tell you it's a popular option for VW TDI's. I did mine as close to as listed below. This should help. reposted after searching, courtesy of "grywlfbg" original post. Ok, so here's my install. This was done after 2 days of frustration at my inability to find 1"ID fuel or heater hose that would fit onto the ProVent so no comments about my redneck methods (I grew up in Oklahoma so come by it honestly) Parts list: 1"ID to 3/4" ID copper plumbing fitting 3/4" ID heater hose 1/2" ID clear vinyl tubing (for drain) 1/2" barb and cap fitting 5 hose clamps Everything came from the plumbing aisle at Home Depot. See here for pics: http://www.one-ring.net/jeep/gallery/vi ... nt-install 1)The day before, glue the reduction fittings to the ProVent. Just goop up plenty of gasket maker around the ProVent fittings, press on the copper fitting and let dry overnight. 2)Remove the plastic sound housing from the top of the engine -unscrew oil filler cap -remove cover - it's just press-fit w/ rubber grommets. 3)Remove the airbox -unplug the sensor wires from airbox top - there are 2 -remove top -remove air filter -remove airbox bottom (it's just press-fit w/ rubber grommets) I removed the hose from the Turbo to the Intercooler to give myself more room - not sure if I needed to do this now. There was oil in this large line. 4)Remove existing CCV line. See the pics for the line to remove. the CCV end is easy, the turbo end was a PITA. Since I knew I was replacing it I just cut it off (slit from the end and it'll slide right off). There was oil in this line also. No wonder the intecoolers gunk up on these things. 5)Cut and install drain tube on ProVent - I used 16" 6)Cut and install heater hose onto ProVent (I ended up w/ 19" for the top [input] hose and 16" for the bottom [output]). 7)Install ProVent. It's a tight fit but it'll drop in. I put a tie-wrap (zip-tie) around the ProVent and the vacuum thing in front of it. But it hasn't moved in a couple hundred miles. Reinstall the airbox - getting the top back on sucks but it'll go. That's it. I'm watching the glued fittings but so far it all looks good, no oil anywhere. _________________ Chris 2005 Patriot Blue Liberty CRD Limited Provent Aero Turbine 2525 muffler

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Author:	GoghUA [ Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:01 pm ]
Post subject:
Awesome... Thanks DZL_LOU! I have now added a bookmark to this thread.

Author:	DZL_LOU [ Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:38 pm ]
Post subject:
Here's a few changes I made with my setup. I used clear plastic lines for a couple reasons. First, if you use heater hose you run the risk of the oil seeping into the rubber and over time weakening the hose. I chose plastic so that the oily goo would not soak in. Second, It helps your case with the dealership as they see the clear plastic turn black coming from the CCV but clear going into the intake of the turbo. This way they are less likely to scream "void warrany". I took the provent into Home Depot with me to make sure that I did not incorrectly confuse any measurements of the fittings with the ID and OD. So I tried on the fittings right there instead of running the risk of buying the wrong ones. "Measure twice, Cut Once"

Author:	Zonie [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:05 pm ]
Post subject:
DZL_LOU, I'm about to go "legal" with a Provent. How is your gasket maker holding up? Anything you would have done differently?

Author:	alljeep [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:48 pm ]
Post subject:
DZL_LOU wrote: Here's a few changes I made with my setup. I used clear plastic lines for a couple reasons. First, if you use heater hose you run the risk of the oil seeping into the rubber and over time weakening the hose. I chose plastic so that the oily goo would not soak in. Second, It helps your case with the dealership as they see the clear plastic turn black coming from the CCV but clear going into the intake of the turbo. This way they are less likely to scream "void warrany". I took the provent into Home Depot with me to make sure that I did not incorrectly confuse any measurements of the fittings with the ID and OD. So I tried on the fittings right there instead of running the risk of buying the wrong ones. "Measure twice, Cut Once" So much for my "I only need a rise in the hose at the CCV output" theory. Your tubing is all up-hill toward the ProVent and it's all black goo. Is it as simple as it looks? Just flex tubing to and from and just set the Provent loose in that spot??? If it is, I should have done that a while ago...

Author:	oldnavy [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 9:28 pm ]
Post subject:
DZL_LOU wrote: Here's a few changes I made with my setup. I used clear plastic lines for a couple reasons. First, if you use heater hose you run the risk of the oil seeping into the rubber and over time weakening the hose. I chose plastic so that the oily goo would not soak in. Second, It helps your case with the dealership as they see the clear plastic turn black coming from the CCV but clear going into the intake of the turbo. This way they are less likely to scream "void warrany". I took the provent into Home Depot with me to make sure that I did not incorrectly confuse any measurements of the fittings with the ID and OD. So I tried on the fittings right there instead of running the risk of buying the wrong ones. "Measure twice, Cut Once" DZL_LOU check out the CRD FAQ as I reposted your instructions there. Check to make sure I have everything correct and let me know if anything needs changed. Walt

Author:	DZL_LOU [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 9:53 pm ]
Post subject:
Zonie wrote: DZL_LOU, I'm about to go "legal" with a Provent. How is your gasket maker holding up? Anything you would have done differently? alljeep wrote: So much for my "I only need a rise in the hose at the CCV output" theory. Your tubing is all up-hill toward the ProVent and it's all black goo. Is it as simple as it looks? Just flex tubing to and from and just set the Provent loose in that spot??? If it is, I should have done that a while ago... Yes, hindsight is always 20/20. Here's what I will do differently if I can physically get some time on my schedule! There is only limited space in the KJ for the Provent cannister. If you could find a lower spot than where I have it in my picture the better. I'm going to investigate the small real estate behind the battery. The lower positioning with respect to the CCV would help the flow from the CCV to the cannister. Note the 2 inches of solid black coloration immediately after the CCV in the hose, this is where some of that oil pools that can't make it up the tube. So some of that oily crap is actually falling back into the crank case, it's not much, but better than going straight into my turbo as was the original OEM setup! Second, if you have the luxury of going to a professional shop that can bend and cut automotive rubber hose to your spec then you can get the setup looking real custom and not worry getting kinks in the hose. Notice that the hoses I have are making gradual turns because a kink can form in them otherwise. Professional bent hose can get you the "gradient" you need for positioning the cannister in a better place and possibly even hiding it from plain view. I find that about 10K for me is the limit on the filter in the cannister. So it's about time again to call the boys down in Louisianna for another filter.

Author:	RFCRD [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:41 pm ]
Post subject:
DZL_LOU wrote: Zonie wrote: DZL_LOU, I'm about to go "legal" with a Provent. How is your gasket maker holding up? Anything you would have done differently? alljeep wrote: So much for my "I only need a rise in the hose at the CCV output" theory. Your tubing is all up-hill toward the ProVent and it's all black goo. Is it as simple as it looks? Just flex tubing to and from and just set the Provent loose in that spot??? If it is, I should have done that a while ago... Yes, hindsight is always 20/20. Here's what I will do differently if I can physically get some time on my schedule! There is only limited space in the KJ for the Provent cannister. If you could find a lower spot than where I have it in my picture the better. I'm going to investigate the small real estate behind the battery. The lower positioning with respect to the CCV would help the flow from the CCV to the cannister. Note the 2 inches of solid black coloration immediately after the CCV in the hose, this is where some of that oil pools that can't make it up the tube. So some of that oily crap is actually falling back into the crank case, it's not much, but better than going straight into my turbo as was the original OEM setup! Second, if you have the luxury of going to a professional shop that can bend and cut automotive rubber hose to your spec then you can get the setup looking real custom and not worry getting kinks in the hose. Notice that the hoses I have are making gradual turns because a kink can form in them otherwise. Professional bent hose can get you the "gradient" you need for positioning the cannister in a better place and possibly even hiding it from plain view. I find that about 10K for me is the limit on the filter in the cannister. So it's about time again to call the boys down in Louisianna for another filter. Routed my hoses over the top of the coolant tank to provide and natural rise then a fall into the Provent. I see a lot of condensed goo but it has been working fine and the line is self cleaning.

Author:	MACKJ [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 5:53 am ]
Post subject:	Option #2
DZL_LOU wrote: Zonie wrote: DZL_LOU, ... If you could find a lower spot than where I have it in my picture the better. I'm going to investigate the small real estate behind the battery. The lower positioning with respect to the CCV would help the flow from the CCV to the cannister... Lou, Here is my install for those of us with RH drive, but it may still give you some ideas for behind the battery. Cheers

Author:	DZL_LOU [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 7:40 am ]
Post subject:
MACKJ That's a real clean and proper setup. The lines flow very nicely and I like the positioning of the filter. Those "mandrel bends" you have on the metal pipes is a nice finishing touch. Also, I was equally impressed the clean engine bay! Well time to reposition the filter this coming weekend! I better schedule that on MRS. DZL_LOU's events calendar so that I can have sometime to myself.

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Author:	MACKJ [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 6:19 pm ]
Post subject:
DZL_LOU wrote: MACKJ That's a real clean and proper setup. The lines flow very nicely and I like the positioning of the filter. Those "mandrel bends" you have on the metal pipes is a nice finishing touch. Also, I was equally impressed the clean engine bay! Well time to reposition the filter this coming weekend! I better schedule that on MRS. DZL_LOU's events calendar so that I can have sometime to myself. Thanks DZL_LOU, and being allowed some time by the "MRS" will be the challenge!. I am pretty happy with the install. I would have posted the drawings I made for the tubing (which is 3/4 inch non-annealed copper alloy) and the brackets but my computer crashed a few months back and now I can’t open them. Unfortunately the photos don’t show the return line back into the turbo outlet. However, just after the line passes under the OEM heater tubes I put a short 90 degree bend in the tube to face the turbo hose. I then cut the OEM hose to match up with the tubing. The hose I used for the run to the Provent is 3/4” Gates fuel hose and a few short pieces of 1” silicone hose at the Provent connections (using 1” to ¾” black poly straight reducers. The black poly tube fittings are irrigation fittings here in Oz). On the bottom of the Provent I put a ½” black poly tube elbow fitted with some hose and clamps hard up against the drain on the Provent. This arrangement allows the Provent to sit as low as possible. I then ran some ½” fuel hose down the fender to under the vehicle with a black poly tap at the end to drain the oil. Notch a piece out of the side of the engine cover with a sharp saw to clear the two hoses running to the Provent and you’re done.

Author:	Ranger1 [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 6:32 pm ]
Post subject:
MACKJ, That is one of the best looking Provent installs I've seen. Excellent work!

Author:	MACKJ [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:40 pm ]
Post subject:
Ranger1 wrote: MACKJ, That is one of the best looking Provent installs I've seen. Excellent work! Cheers mate. I aim to please. Patent pending...

Author:	RFCRD [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:11 pm ]
Post subject:
MACKJ wrote: Ranger1 wrote: MACKJ, That is one of the best looking Provent installs I've seen. Excellent work! Cheers mate. I aim to please. Patent pending... I'm impressed. It took a few minutes to figure this out, RH drive means the A/C plumbing is on the LH side (opposite of US build).

Author:	Kniggit [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:52 pm ]
Post subject:
God knows when you move the steering wheel all the parts on the WHOLE car need to be mirror images of eachother or it just wouldn't ever work right. you know I bet his engine spins backwards too. K

Author:	BVCRD [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:41 am ]
Post subject:
Kniggit wrote: God knows when you move the steering wheel all the parts on the WHOLE car need to be mirror images of eachother or it just wouldn't ever work right. you know I bet his engine spins backwards too. K NO, that only happens in Australia and all other points south of the equator. Wait!!! That's where he is. Disregard then.