Not starting still (was Air getting into filter head)

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:20 am

Okay, all I can find relates to the US spec diesel filter heads & I want to be sure I have done it right.

How far do you open the bleed nut to allow air/fuel out?
When all the air is out should you see anything in the bowl when you pump the primer pump?

My drive isn't 100% level and I have just replaced the head & filter and it seemed to bleed up okay on the drive with the jeep nose high. Been driving it around but always parking on our sloped drive. Parked up today on a flat surface while shopping, cam back 40mins later and it won't start. Pump the primer & I can see very fine bubbles appearing in the filter bowl. I didn't have a spanner for the bleed nut so I had to pump it and leave for 5 mins them pump again before I could get the engine fired up (no obd codes btw)

I am hoping I still had air in the head due to originally bleeding on a slope. I have just slackened the air bleed nut off & bled it again and I have the pump fairly solid now when pumping down and no bubbles in the bowl.

So did I just not bleed it enough/incorrectly or do I have an air leak somewhere?

TIA

(Edited topic title)

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:54 am

Go to http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/ ... rt_diesel/ download the 2.5crd.pdf file go to page 14-1

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:05 am

have it thanks, the section on bleeding isn't very descriptive

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:08 am

The fuel system must be primed if the fuel system
has been serviced. This is done using the fuel primer
plunger located at the top of the fuel filter/water separator.
(1) With service completed on the fuel system.
(2) Unscrew fuel system primer plunger by
unscrewing it counterlockwise (Fig. 1).
(3) Pull primer up out of bore until it stops (Fig.
1).
(4) Pump primer plunger up and down until air
bubbles cannot be seen in fuel filter cap at the bottom
of the fuel filter/water separator (Fig. 1).

It doesn't actually mention the bleed nut, where does the air go if you just pump the plunger?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:59 am

Not real sure; perhaps an owner of a pre-05/06 export model with this filter head can weigh in. Otherwise go to http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKE ... roductline . What you have looks like a 200 Series filter so click on that link. Then click on any one of the pictured filter models (the difference appears to only be in the filter length); click on the service manuals/user guides link and open the PDF version of the seal kit instructions which appear to contain a bit more detailed bleeding instructions.

Billwill · **Posted:** Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:28 am

steve@offroading.net wrote:

The fuel system must be primed if the fuel system
has been serviced. This is done using the fuel primer
plunger located at the top of the fuel filter/water separator.
(1) With service completed on the fuel system.
(2) Unscrew fuel system primer plunger by
unscrewing it counterlockwise (Fig. 1).
(3) Pull primer up out of bore until it stops (Fig.
1).
(4) Pump primer plunger up and down until air
bubbles cannot be seen in fuel filter cap at the bottom
of the fuel filter/water separator (Fig. 1).

It doesn't actually mention the bleed nut, where does the air go if you just pump the plunger?

Yes that is a mistake in the documentation...the brass nut on the side is the bleed nut!

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:48 am

how lose do you get it to purge the air, and if closed and the plunger pressed should you see anything going on in the bottom of the bowl if all the air is out?

thanks

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:07 am

Still been getting random no starts so just had a dig around. Unbolted the filter housing from the bulkhead & turned it upside down to see how much air was in it, seems the whole of the bottom clear bowl was air when upside down :shock:

So tried priming it sideways with the air space at the water drain tap with the tap open. Cleared out most of the air however on closing the tap I think I spotted thae problem, fuel was leaking between the filter and the bottom bowl & spraying on the bulkhead where I couldn't see it before. Managed to put 1/2 a turn on the bottom bowl by hand so hopefully that is where the air has been getting in. When bled up now the plunger goes solid on the last stroke & you have to open the bleed nut to get it down, something it didn't do before so I am hoping I now has an air tight filter head :pepper:

Also wondering if my oil leak from the back of the engine could be diesel now, will see how it goes now its sealed correctly.

Auberon · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:30 am

You may need to do it a couple more times working on the bulkhead now you have that much backpressure on the primer.
I usually make sure I pre-fill it with really clean diesel before screwing it on. Takes heaps less time.
Cheers (sorry I missed that wording it made no real sense)

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:55 am

just been out for a drive & all is well at the moment. Shame the top of the housing isn't clear like the bottom, would make it much easier

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2014 11:02 am

well 24h later its not starting again. Turned the filter unit upside down and the is 1/2" of air in the filter again :banghead:

That wasn't there yesterday so air is getting in somewhere. Pretty sure the head/filter/bottom bowl isn't letting air in now. There are no diesel leaks around the head, I can prime the head to enough pressure that the pump goes hard but air is getting in somewhere.

Suggestions? Bad fuel lines?

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:36 pm

I have decided to go the external fuel pump route & replace the rear plastic fuel lines and quick clip joints. Hopefully it will sort the issues out.

Billwill · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 3:13 am

steve@offroading.net wrote:

I have decided to go the external fuel pump route & replace the rear plastic fuel lines and quick clip joints. Hopefully it will sort the issues out.

Yep that should fix the problem....touch wood I have not had any issues on my Export 2002 CRD yet

samse2101 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:55 am

Hi Steve,

talking with a friend of mine about your problem he said, that he had the same issue with an XJ a few years ago:

The reason was the aftermarket filter, he bought an OEM and the problem was solved.

You also have an aftermarket filter i think? :?:

bye,
samse

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 2:13 pm

It did it with the mopar filter it has on before this one.

Today I replaced the crappy tank lines with thier quick clips with new diesel lines with hose clips. Getting the tank access plate off was the hardest job, removing the rear carpet & chipping away all the frame sealer over the nuts took ages.

Where the lines meet the solid pipe. Will mount the electric pump here.

Hose all replaced, return is 7mm and feed is 8mm, put 2 clips on the return just to be safe.

Bled up okay, will see if air gets in now. Still plan to fit the electric pump even if replacing these pipes fixes it.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 3:18 pm

Those of us with later model KJs would kill to have the problem you had getting that access plate of. DCJ deleted it on later models so the only way to get to the fuel tank sending unit is to drop the entire tank. Beyond stupid.

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 3:58 pm

That would have made the job a bit harder :shock:

Auberon · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:27 pm

True papaindigo. that is one mod I do have planned.
It is not a hard one. Was planning a round plate. Thanks for the pics steve. Can scale everything without pre-assembly now.
Steve you could always replace suspect seals X Racor for those seals that might've hardened.
Happy to list the parts and part #'s if you need them.
Cheers.

RTTT265 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 1:27 am

Ours is an 03 export. Looking at changing the rear lines very soon the front line to filter has a crimp on it.

Ours would never bleed. So put a brand new racor and filter from marine shop on it. Bleeds well but after you start and run it takes 6 plunges to go hard again, normal? Maybe rear fuel line.

So far have replaced split injector washer, spitting.

Today relaced alternator decoupler to get rid of chirping noise. Ended up holding old pulley and alternator in vice and air hammering 10mm clockwise to get it off. Pain in the booty job.

The thing I cant seem to fix is a miss when warmed up. Only top gear, cruising or on hills like its running on 3, goes down a gear seems fine.

was thinking of the injector spill test next, maybe after rear fuel lines. Then ill give up

steve@offroading.net · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 4:35 am

Auberon wrote:

Steve you could always replace suspect seals X Racor for those seals that might've hardened.
Happy to list the parts and part #'s if you need them.
Cheers.

what suspect seals? The two either side of the filter are new, are there more?

Not starting still (was Air getting into filter head)

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