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 Post subject: Oil pan stripped
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:38 pm 
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Location: saint diego, ca
Went to change the oil this past weekend and apparently stripped the oil pan threads. A new oil pan from the dealer is $272 (that not including gaskets, etc) and then labor puts it at the $400-500 range and apparently oil pans are on backorder for CRDs. Second option was to tap threads for new bolt for $120 from dealer. I went with option 2 and I like the setup as I have never been impressed with the factory hex nut. My questions are as follows:
1) is this going to be a problem long term?
2) Has anyone else had a problem stripping the threads? it seems that the oil pan is on a pretty extensive backorder which leads me to believe it is a recurring problem.
3) In order to avoid stripping the pan again I am strongly considering using a oil suction system like they use on BMW and Mercedes and I am wondering if anyone else has tried this system and if it works for a CRD or if there are other options that I don't know about?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:41 pm 
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Location: Fort Collins, CO
search this forum for fumoto


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 Post subject: Re: Oil pan stripped
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:44 pm 
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Location: East Tennessee
JDaPP wrote:
Went to change the oil this past weekend and apparently stripped the oil pan threads. A new oil pan from the dealer is $272 (that not including gaskets, etc) and then labor puts it at the $400-500 range and apparently oil pans are on backorder for CRDs. Second option was to tap threads for new bolt for $120 from dealer. I went with option 2 and I like the setup as I have never been impressed with the factory hex nut. My questions are as follows:
1) is this going to be a problem long term?
2) Has anyone else had a problem stripping the threads? it seems that the oil pan is on a pretty extensive backorder which leads me to believe it is a recurring problem.
3) In order to avoid stripping the pan again I am strongly considering using a oil suction system like they use on BMW and Mercedes and I am wondering if anyone else has tried this system and if it works for a CRD or if there are other options that I don't know about?


Any idea what size they used when they retapped it? The Fumoto valve would be a good fix for you, but it sounds like you won't need the factory size anymore.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:49 pm 
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Location: Michigan
The oil sump on the KJ CRD engine is considered a structural member of the engine and would have to be shipped in from Italy. I would definitely recommend the tap method and the installation of a drain valve of some type like Fumoto.

As a side note, the gasket on the KJ is a steel core with rubber outside like a giant o-ring with a steel core. It is definitely reusable. If you take it off, a thin coat of black silicone on reassembly goes a long way to ensuring that it'll never leak of course.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:00 pm 
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Location: saint diego, ca
It looks like the tap they used was a perma coil 5/8-18 inch fine. Not very mechanical oriented, but I would assume that means it is a 5/8" opening now?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:03 pm 
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Very good repair, I hope the new drain plug has a magnet on it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:52 pm 
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The tubing will not go through the dipstick tube for the suction, been there tried it. My magnum would not allow for the suction tube either, so I gave my TopSider to a friend with a VW TDI last week.

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