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 Post subject: Re: proof perhaps
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:41 pm 
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Bgame wrote:
Joe Romas wrote:
Bgame wrote:
[The fuel saga is interesting. I have bled my system and the hand pump will get hard and not pump when I get all the air out. But crank the engine up and let it idle a while and the pump will get soft and pump again. Check it and I can get air out of it again. Pump again and get all the air out and the hand pump is hard again with the vent closed. Crank it and the hand pump gets soft and I can get air out of the filter again. I also noted that with the engine running you can not get any air or fuel out of the bled valve. I have never had any problem with the CDR cranking. I bet if people will check after they think they have all the air out they will have air in it again after they crank it up and run it a while.


BG
What your seeing is because when the engine is cranked or running, the fuel filter after pumping it up goes from pressure to a vacume as the injection pump, a Bosch C3 I think, starts pumping fuel from the tank and through the filter ito the fuel rail :!:


I believe you are correct. But why do we still get air in the system after the ist runs a few seconds? I have done this 6 times in a row and will still get air out of the bled valve.

You are getting more air into the system because you are sucking air through a leak, most likely while the engine is running. This entire system is working under a VACCUUM from the tank all the way to the injectors when the engine is running. When the engine is off, a valve closes on the common rail allowing you to be able to pressurize from the primer pump/filter assy to the common rail. If you open the bleeder while it is running, you will allow air to be sucked into the system (bad move).

Now using the primer pump (while the engine is off) is a down & dirty way to spot a leak. Pressurize the system (don't open the bleeder) and look for leaks around the filter area and all the hose connections from the filter to the pump. If you can pressure prime and it doesn't bleed-off, the system is likely tight from the filter to the pump and you can discount this as a source of the leak. Then you would have to check the lines from the tank to the filter.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 3:16 am 
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Yup, still in the shop. ECM has a mind of its own and does not accept the F37 update (this in itself is not so bad I guess). Except STAR told dealer to replace ECM tomorrow - day 3. - the saga continues c]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 2:20 pm 
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KJ79 wrote:
Yup, still in the shop. ECM has a mind of its own and does not accept the F37 update (this in itself is not so bad I guess). Except STAR told dealer to replace ECM tomorrow - day 3. - the saga continues c]

....and guess what, it won't ever take a flash (been there, done that 3 times now). They have to use an '06 as a host to clone my computers. I believe this is the data link defect that prompted the F31 recall. Did they really fix it???

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 2:20 am 
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Continues to be in the shop. I understand the F37 and F28 have been done, after the ECM was replaced. The ABS/ESP problem has not been resolved, they have not been able to diagnose the cause, replaced (a) rear wheel sensor, replaced the ABS module, checked out possible insulation failure due to chafing or otherwise so far to no avail. They hope to have something by Monday, but who knows. The wife loves the PT Cruiser - we have now for almost a week. I must say the cruiser has abt.80,000 miles on it and is is rock solid and 100% functional - she said: it is so reliable! I took it to work the other day and experienced blizzerd like snowsqualls at night on the way back - sort of missed the 4 wheel drive.
Ah well maybe better luck next week....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:54 pm 
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Back from out of town for a few days...

Thanks to info from retmil46 about the WIX fuel filter subsititue, upon spotting a NH Tractor dealership, I pulled in on the way home - they had the 5 micron fuel filter in stock for $21 and some change. Bought one and will be installing it soon. Just needs the drain plug Mitchell provided the part number for, or a reducer to adapt the WIF sensor on the CRD. At least the WIX/NH filter is listed as a glass synthetic filter rated at 5 microns nominal. It should be a good interim filter until a CAT2 filter is available.

To the other question from this quote:

Quote:
If you KNOW the replacement TC is inferior, show me.


That's not the issue here. The issue is that DC has a history of using subpar power-train components that fail well before warranty expiration on the CRD. Now with the last F37, they are reducing power in an attempt to make it last past warranty. That is the issue, no matter how you try to obfuscate it. If the F37 TC is adequate for as sold, advertised levels, then let DC prove it by restoring power back to what they sold us. DC needs to do the proving here, not us.

To date, at 26,900 miles, I've had a TC destroy itself on me on a local road at 45 mph, stranding me on the way to work - this was at 18K miles, without warning. They flushed the tranny cooler (plugged up badly with debris), flushed the tranny, cleaned the tranny pan, replaced the filters, replaced the TC and added new fluid. Neither the pump or the tranny cooler was replaced. This was long before F37 existed, sometime in early 2006. Now, at 8900 miles later, the TC is making some bad noises when climbing some small hills. Shudder problem, present from day one, still exists. This is on a vehicle that is used for highway driving on Interstate at 90%, local roads 10%, 50 miles a day. The tranny/TC combo should last at least 100K miles under these conditions. Not a lot of stop and go, mostly in lockup mode. Shudder is present only after WOT on ramp acceleration or Interstate merging, then relaxing the accelerator pedal. It does not shudder on acceleration, only after easing up at 60 - 65 mph. Once speed is reached, the shudder stops. Its been flashed several times in an attempt to eliminate shudder, but without success.

So yes, I think the TC DC used is inadequate for this powerplant. The TC in my 02 with a V6 rated at 235 ft-lbs is doing fine at well over 50K miles.
As to inferior, that is pretty subjective term. It wouldn't matter if it were inferior, as long as it held up to the powertrain specs. It doesn't in some cases, enough to cause some concern.

One of the Speed Channel shows, iirc it was 2 Guys garage, had a special showing the stock Dodge TC from a Cummins equipped truck compared to a performance built TC. First they showed the Dodge OEM, taken apart. Fins on the TC were press fit into slots, not braised, in the TC housing, with somewhat loose rattly fit. The stamped steel clutch surface was already blue-burnt with heat from the lockup clutch slipping excessively, with warped uneven, high spots. The TC bearing was a phenolic disc, with wear marks - wear which adds sloppiness to the TC stall speed as it wears. The flex-plate mounting lugs looked to be stamped steel welded to the TC case. The stator, responsible for the torque multiplication, was a cast aluminum with thick vanes that had constricted flow paths for the tranny fluid to traverse.

In contrast, they showed the specialty TC. First, a billet steel TC cover, machined to size, had heavy duty clutch surfaces and was much, much thicker and stronger to resist the warping that the OEM experienced. The clutch material was kevlar/carbon fiber or something similar, not paper based clutch material like the OEM. The stator was compared directly to the OEM. The stator fins were streamlined, had less resistance to fluid flow and provided more torque multiplication than OEM ( don't remember the exact figure). Instead of phenolic bearings, metal roller torrington bearings were used.

So in that regard, the OEM was inferior to the specialty TC. What was apparent was that Chrysler went for lowest component cost on the OEM TC - important to them, but the $200 to $300 Chrysler may have saved (at their unit volume cost) is insignificant from an owners point of view, in a $25K to $38K diesel vehicle, whether its a Liberty CRD or Dodge 2500 truck. Again, inferior wouldn't matter at all if it would last 100K minimum and not lose efficiency as it accumulated miles. Unfortunately, that's not been the case with enough CRD's.

I'm not concerned if you believe there is a problem or not, and even less interested in proving it to you. I am concerned if you're here to whitewash the problem or attempt to obfuscate what DC did by detuning instead of using a TC built to handle advertised power Being stranded on the road with a trashed TC has a very convincing affect as to whether the TC can handle the advertised power level. If you're lucky, it won't happen to you. As long as DC did their math correctly with the power detuning, you might make it past warranty without an issue. If not, a PCM power detune and new/rebuilt TC may be in your future. Good luck with your CRD.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 11:06 pm 
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Just a little note to add to the fire. I know a lot of folks don't give Consumer Reports much attention, but millions of consumers swear by it for their purchases. I just got the 2007 car edition. You know how they have a small list of vehilces to basically avoid at all cost???

Specifically listed is the 2005 Jeep Liberty (TurDsl) model. In addition to all 2006 model Jeep liberties.

Fire another torpedo into our resale value! :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:43 am 
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Consumer Reports!? The same rag that reported something like 12mpg with their test crd! There is a 2005 limited in the paper this week. $22,500 with 11k on it. Not bad for resale imho.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:35 am 
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onthehunt wrote:
Consumer Reports!? The same rag that reported something like 12mpg with their test crd! There is a 2005 limited in the paper this week. $22,500 with 11k on it. Not bad for resale imho.

Listed in the newspaper is not the same as sold.

The word is already on the street with some dealers, don't buy these things. I'm trying to work a trade-in at the present. The small-town local Chevy dealer even knows and is trying to find a wholesaler to buy mine before even making a trade offer.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:13 am 
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After the 11mpg story and the baby car seat mistake...I don't give a rat's rear-end about Consumer Reports. If they don't know the difference between 38 and 70 mph when testing a baby car seat....what person in their right mind would trust these idiots. I wouldn't read the crap they put out if you paid me.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:21 am 
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After the 11mpg story and the baby car seat mistake...I don't give a rat's rear-end about Consumer Reports. If they don't know the difference between 38 and 70 mph when testing a baby car seat....what person in their right mind would trust these idiots. I wouldn't read the crap they put out if you paid me.


Amen Brotha'...Amen

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:17 pm 
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alljeep wrote:
Just a little note to add to the fire. I know a lot of folks don't give Consumer Reports much attention, but millions of consumers swear by it for their purchases. I just got the 2007 car edition. You know how they have a small list of vehilces to basically avoid at all cost???

Specifically listed is the 2005 Jeep Liberty (TurDsl) model. In addition to all 2006 model Jeep liberties.

Fire another torpedo into our resale value! :shock:


Too bad that CR gives an all encompassing statement and does not qualify that statement as to why they believe you should avoid the vehicle.
That would be stating the truth. Now, I'm not saying the CR is guilty of the sin of lies, but CR is only guilty of the sin of omission.
I gave up on that biased, uniformed and uneducated peice of junk publication. I know many people read it as it's supposed to be the American University of Consumerism. Overwhelminingly CR is not just biased about the Jeep CRD it's biased against every other domestically name plated car manufacturer.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 8:36 am 
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DZL_LOU wrote:
alljeep wrote:
Just a little note to add to the fire. I know a lot of folks don't give Consumer Reports much attention, but millions of consumers swear by it for their purchases. I just got the 2007 car edition. You know how they have a small list of vehilces to basically avoid at all cost???

Specifically listed is the 2005 Jeep Liberty (TurDsl) model. In addition to all 2006 model Jeep liberties.

Fire another torpedo into our resale value! :shock:


Too bad that CR gives an all encompassing statement and does not qualify that statement as to why they believe you should avoid the vehicle.
That would be stating the truth. Now, I'm not saying the CR is guilty of the sin of lies, but CR is only guilty of the sin of omission.
I gave up on that biased, uniformed and uneducated peice of junk publication. I know many people read it as it's supposed to be the American University of Consumerism. Overwhelminingly CR is not just biased about the Jeep CRD it's biased against every other domestically name plated car manufacturer.


I agree but it's just frusterating because we all know the majority of the American car buying public are like a bunch of lemmings marching into the sea. :roll: So when things like this are printed, they affect all of us whether we agree, like, hate, despise CR or not - the damage is done.

I will say that after about 3k miles on the F37 the CRD seems to be finding itself again! At least, mine is running real good now -less hole shot still - but not as choppy as right after the TQ swap.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:25 pm 
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To heck with CU - Back to F37

The power feels reduced but I'm wondering if that's a by product of the higher stall speed converter. If the engine has the same torque curve but rev's past the peak torque - it would feel weaker. Short of pulling the engine for an engine dyno - is there a way to see if it's really engine or engine/TC mismatch that's the problem?

(TC - I have confidence either Sun or WTS will come up with a solution, but if it's really engine - I need a chip and I'm not sure what the long term reliability will be)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:56 am 
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alljeep wrote:
I agree but it's just frusterating because we all know the majority of the American car buying public are like a bunch of lemmings marching into the sea. :roll: So when things like this are printed, they affect all of us whether we agree, like, hate, despise CR or not - the damage is done..


For 2007, Consumer Reports lists the Jeep Liberty as a "recommended" vehicle. :) It's the only Jeep that is recommended. Reliability is rated as average; satisfaction is below average; and depreciation is average.

alljeep wrote:
I will say that after about 3k miles on the F37 the CRD seems to be finding itself again! At least, mine is running real good now -less hole shot still - but not as choppy as right after the TQ swap.


I think I have to agree with this also. Mine is runnin' real good right now. My CRD sees alot of highway miles; maybe that has something to do with it. Diesels love to run on the open road!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:45 pm 
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ATXKJ wrote:
To heck with CU - Back to F37

The power feels reduced but I'm wondering if that's a by product of the higher stall speed converter. If the engine has the same torque curve but rev's past the peak torque - it would feel weaker. Short of pulling the engine for an engine dyno - is there a way to see if it's really engine or engine/TC mismatch that's the problem?


This is exactly my seat of the pants perception of what happened. My CRD pulls hard at 1800rpm, but I can't keep it there in any of the lower gears since F37.
Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 6:34 pm 
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KJ79 - The original owner for mine got the ABS module replaced, I'm starting having strange problems on the rear brakes and I'm suspecting the ABS sensors or the module again.

As for the shudder, I have the same basic issue as many others, and F37 seems to make it worst. I can actually repeat it everytime I get the same conditions:
1) removing throttle to slow from 65 to 50-55mph to get from one highway to the other
2) RPM around 1700rpm, speed around 50-55mph, tranny probably in top gear at this point
3) Try to accelerate always yield big shudder! only way to overcome is changing gear... My thumb is always on the O/D button nowaday

Seems like some computer is thinking there's no need to downshift!

I'm not happy with the transmission, it seems to have a dual personality now :-( sometime it upshift very hard, sometime it wait too long... that's why i'm putting O/D off all the time except straight highway, doesn't help my MPG consumption

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