So my Jeep ran perfectly yesterday. I filled the tank up, and everything seemed fine.

I also reported 24MPG on a light pedal city run.

Until I parked it, and went back to school. I only averaged 24MPG highway. Quite pathetic and back to the days when my mileage.... sucked.

So I parked it thinking they dropped the pressure in my tires since they did a vehicle inspection.

Started it up today, everything sounds fine. Park - Reverse - Back out of space - Go!

Jeep struggles to move. Weird I think, but I've never driven it with a cold start since the F37.

Then I get to a stop sign... boom... engine shakes, rattles and STALLS!!!!!

The oil light comes on. I just did an oil change, and it's not leaking... that can't possibly be the problem. I start the engine back up, runs fine. I park in front of my building since I'm going to load in some stuff... stalls again. The engine is warm now, and it no longer stalls, it just tries to stall.

Marlon is not pleased and I don't want my Jeep back until it's running perfectly.

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Me - '17 KL Trailhawk 4x4, Rhino, P245/65R17 Destination A/Ts, Stock Skids, waiting for mods...
Sis - '18 Cherokee Trailhawk 4x4 - Black - Dents - Scratches - STOCK

The low oil light is probably caused by it stalling and not the cause of the problem. It sounds more like it's trying to loose fuel prime while it's parked. If this is the case, it would start and run long enough to suck the air pocket into the pump, then it stalls. Double check your filter & fuel line connections. Might try the primer pump and bleeding if it reoccurs.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

That doesn't explain the transmission slipping.

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Me - '17 KL Trailhawk 4x4, Rhino, P245/65R17 Destination A/Ts, Stock Skids, waiting for mods...
Sis - '18 Cherokee Trailhawk 4x4 - Black - Dents - Scratches - STOCK

I didn't realize it was slipping, If so, watch your trannmission fluid levels. Getting this right is tricky with this vehicle for some reason. May also want to check your transfer case adjustments. All this stuff was removed to do the recall.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

You're not alone...
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=15453

The service tech told me this transmission needs to be full to work correctly and cautioned not to over fill as it will cuase problems. They drove mine through several heat-up & cool-down cycles, checking the transmission oil several times before they had enough confidence in the readings to give it back.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Took it to the dealer on Thursday to let them check the trasmission fluid for themselves and it was right on mark. It is going in on Monday, STAR told them to replace the transmission filters, but if the dealer was straight with me that should have been done when they did the pump part of the F37 recall.

Does anyone know how much fluid the transmission requires in the following situations:

1) Full flush?

2) Dropping the pan?

I would like to change my fluid and put in the new Valvoline ATF+4 that supposedly has "shudder guard technology"

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

The OE service information reads as follows:

"545RFE Service fill 4.73L (10 pts), Overhaul 13.33L (28.0 pts) NOTE: Dry fill capacity depending on type of internal cooler, length and inside diameter of cooler lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these figures may vary."

Hope this helps ya!

E

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2006 Liberty Sport CRD
Born on 2-6-06, Purchased on 4-21-06
Everything Stock...for now.

Thanks for the info, but I found conflicting info on the net:

545RFE Maintenance Recommendations
Fluid Capacity for Service fill (drop pan, change filters, refill): 6.2 Liters or 6.55 Quarts

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

Dont know what to tell ya. This came straight from the factory service manual.

I would probably call a dealer just to make sure.

E

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2006 Liberty Sport CRD
Born on 2-6-06, Purchased on 4-21-06
Everything Stock...for now.

The FSM is incorrect, the service fill is about 9 quarts. That has been a part of the problem. When the F37 is done it can take 4 to 6 qt to do a proper fill to full hot line instead of the 1 1/4 qt the F37 call for.
Remember these are checked hot and in park to check to see if they are full.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

oldnavy, just to verify....so if I drop the pan and replace both filters, 9 quarts will be required to bring the trans fluid back to proper level?

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

Marlon,
Same thing has happened to me nearly every time it gets cold down here. (especially when the temp is below 50). It'll start fine and I'll let it idle for a few mintues. Then when I hit my first stop sign, I get the shudderning then the stall. Never had any caution lights though, but she'll start up fine and run normal after the first few stop signs.
I'm pretty sure it is an air leak or bad fuel, but after 3 trips to the dealer they can't seem to verify it. Frankly I think they don't want to do the work. Is it hard to bleed the fuel lines?
the-dude

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"Speramus Meliora; Resurget Cineribus"

Detroit shall Rise Again.

It's nothing to bleed them; it's often difficult to t-shoot an air leak tho.

On a related note, does anyone know how much air at the fuel filter is allowable? Is there such a thing as an air-tight fuel system of our design? I'm guessing not. If no symptoms, then is all well? I ask because although my air leak has apparently been fixed & she's been running good, I still have air in the lines after any operation.

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03/15/2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD w/86,000 mi. Engine lube pump, Provent, V6 airbox mod, Magnaflow, gauges, Amsoil all around, & Wix air filter. Sunroof drain blocked on receipt, stubborn fuel leak at 2200 mi, 3 jammed windows, & 1 bad alternator decoupler, but it's still a keeper!

Yup, sure does. What is crazy the F37 stated 1 1/4 to fill the TC and most tranny tech will say 2 to 3 at least for small TC in a car. My old MB when I would drain it was about a gallon of fluid.

Air in the system is a real PIA, it can be loose hose, imporper purge of filter when changed. I have even wondered if foaming when filling too fast can cause a problem. Sometimes I think it can be caused by clamps, valves, or even injectors can work loose because of the vibrations from the diesel.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Uh... I barely have any transmission fluid.

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Me - '17 KL Trailhawk 4x4, Rhino, P245/65R17 Destination A/Ts, Stock Skids, waiting for mods...
Sis - '18 Cherokee Trailhawk 4x4 - Black - Dents - Scratches - STOCK

Sounds like you are about 5 qts low. I would bring it to attention of the dealer ASAP Monday. I bet they put in the amount call for in the TSB or Recall. Don't drive ant more then you have to till they check and add fluid.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Make them tow it in and give you a rental until they learn how to check a transmission dipstick. Maybe even copy the correct way out of the owners manual for them. Let them know that there is an owners manual on the top shelf of any Liberty. MAKE SURE they know it is the "RED" fluid, not the "ORANGE" or "AMBER" fluid that they should add.

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

Going back Monday, and yes Darby... I want a rental... a new transmission wouldn't hurt either.

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Me - '17 KL Trailhawk 4x4, Rhino, P245/65R17 Destination A/Ts, Stock Skids, waiting for mods...
Sis - '18 Cherokee Trailhawk 4x4 - Black - Dents - Scratches - STOCK