LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Fuel filter head

My fuel filter head has a leak at the connector for the fuel heater. My dealer didn't stock it of course. I want to turn this around quick if I take it in for service so I ordered it from www.wholesalemopar.com . Part number 52129237-AA gets you the head, the fittings, the element, and the water in fuel sensor for 115.88 plus shipping.

I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug.

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug.

When you had this apart, can the heater/center adaptor be rotated @ 90* so the wires connectors point toward the brake booster? This would allow the "out" fuel line to be repositioned toward the engine. This would open a straight, unobstructed access to the filter for servicing.

RFCRD wrote:

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug.

The connectors can be rotated 360 degrees with no problem, I don't see how it would change the position of the fuel lines as that is part of the upper casting of the bracket and primer assmy.

I been having trouble getting air in the system and decided it was time to tackle the filter change and check the heater and bracket unit. If you look close you can see it's two pieces. When I loosen the fuel filter, the heater and fuel temperture sensor turned with it. :shock:

I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug.

There isn't much of an gasket or o-ring between the two halfs of the bracket and fuel heater. :roll:

Soooo, I decided to make a go at trying to make it seal better and not turn when installing and uninstalling the fuel filter. I know you not suppose to use silicone but I did only on the outside edge with ultra copper sensor safe silicone sealant. At least any that may break off will get filter out. I then tighten the center fitting till I heard it yell uncle :lol:

and installed the fuel filter. I installed bleed and pressurized the fuel system and don't see any leaks. I has been only one day since I did this and hope this cures the problem I was having.

Was any of y'alls filters dirty at all?

This filter I just replaced with the New Holland had right at 10,000 miles on it. It was dark dirt brown. Got some water and dirt out the drain, even more of both when I turned it upside down after removing it.

The current issue of one of the new diesel mags, "8 Lug Diesel Truck", has an article on replacing the fuel filter on a Duramax. The filter had 15K miles on it, and had so much crap built up in the bottom that it wouldn't even drain when they completely removed the petcock. They had to remove the filter and turn it upside down to drain all the crud out.

They had a pic of what came out of that filter. If you can get a copy of the mag, take a good look at that pic. Looks the same as what comes out of my Permacool prefilter if I remove and upend it after only 3000 miles. That in a nutshell should tell you just how poor our local diesel fuel supply is.

be very carefull of replacing fuel lines if your running bio... it will eat them....

Author:	Goglio704 [ Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:39 pm ]
Post subject:	Fuel filter head
My fuel filter head has a leak at the connector for the fuel heater. My dealer didn't stock it of course. I want to turn this around quick if I take it in for service so I ordered it from www.wholesalemopar.com . Part number 52129237-AA gets you the head, the fittings, the element, and the water in fuel sensor for 115.88 plus shipping.

Author:	RFCRD [ Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:51 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Fuel filter head
Goglio704 wrote: My fuel filter head has a leak at the connector for the fuel heater. My dealer didn't stock it of course. I want to turn this around quick if I take it in for service so I ordered it from www.wholesalemopar.com . Part number 52129237-AA gets you the head, the fittings, the element, and the water in fuel sensor for 115.88 plus shipping. That's a great price for the whole assy. I know mine came as an assembled unit but they didn't list the price on the warranty paperwork. Just wonder why your dealer is slow to get the part? My dealer didn't stock the filter assy or the new style CAC hose but had both one in a day.

Author:	Goglio704 [ Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:58 pm ]
Post subject:
I normally take it in for service on Saturday, so that doesn't help parts availability. I'm sure they would get it pretty quick, but I wanted to be sure the part was available. When I inquired about the part, my local dealer commented that it was a fast moving item.

Author:	BlackLibertyCRD [ Mon Jan 15, 2007 3:39 pm ]
Post subject:	I think I repaired mine
I been having trouble getting air in the system and decided it was time to tackle the filter change and check the heater and bracket unit. If you look close you can see it's two pieces. When I loosen the fuel filter, the heater and fuel temperture sensor turned with it. I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug. There isn't much of an gasket or o-ring between the two halfs of the bracket and fuel heater. Soooo, I decided to make a go at trying to make it seal better and not turn when installing and uninstalling the fuel filter. I know you not suppose to use silicone but I did only on the outside edge with ultra copper sensor safe silicone sealant. At least any that may break off will get filter out. I then tighten the center fitting till I heard it yell uncle and installed the fuel filter. I installed bleed and pressurized the fuel system and don't see any leaks. I has been only one day since I did this and hope this cures the problem I was having.

Author:	RFCRD [ Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:12 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: I think I repaired mine
BlackLibertyCRD wrote: I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug. When you had this apart, can the heater/center adaptor be rotated @ 90* so the wires connectors point toward the brake booster? This would allow the "out" fuel line to be repositioned toward the engine. This would open a straight, unobstructed access to the filter for servicing.

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Author:	BlackLibertyCRD [ Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:44 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: I think I repaired mine
RFCRD wrote: BlackLibertyCRD wrote: I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug. When you had this apart, can the heater/center adaptor be rotated @ 90* so the wires connectors point toward the brake booster? This would allow the "out" fuel line to be repositioned toward the engine. This would open a straight, unobstructed access to the filter for servicing. The connectors can be rotated 360 degrees with no problem, I don't see how it would change the position of the fuel lines as that is part of the upper casting of the bracket and primer assmy.

Author:	RFCRD [ Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:01 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: I think I repaired mine
BlackLibertyCRD wrote: RFCRD wrote: BlackLibertyCRD wrote: I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug. When you had this apart, can the heater/center adaptor be rotated @ 90* so the wires connectors point toward the brake booster? This would allow the "out" fuel line to be repositioned toward the engine. This would open a straight, unobstructed access to the filter for servicing. The connectors can be rotated 360 degrees with no problem, I don't see how it would change the position of the fuel lines as that is part of the upper casting of the bracket and primer assmy. Just unbolt the upper line from the center of the head section and swing it around next to the "in" line. With the fuel lines out of the way, all you would need to do is pull the wire connectors and you could get a strap wrench on the filter with room to work. Just a random mechanic's thought.

Author:	BlackLibertyCRD [ Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:17 pm ]
Post subject:
It's easier to put up in the air and use a cup wrench on the bottom with a long extention after disconnecting and removing the WIF sensor. It's a straight shot from underneath.

Author:	retmil46 [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:26 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: I think I repaired mine
BlackLibertyCRD wrote: I been having trouble getting air in the system and decided it was time to tackle the filter change and check the heater and bracket unit. If you look close you can see it's two pieces. When I loosen the fuel filter, the heater and fuel temperture sensor turned with it. I then removed the whole bracket/heater fuel temperture sensor and found that it is held together by the center fitting. I took it apart by the same allen socket used to remove the oil drain plug. There isn't much of an gasket or o-ring between the two halfs of the bracket and fuel heater. Soooo, I decided to make a go at trying to make it seal better and not turn when installing and uninstalling the fuel filter. I know you not suppose to use silicone but I did only on the outside edge with ultra copper sensor safe silicone sealant. At least any that may break off will get filter out. I then tighten the center fitting till I heard it yell uncle and installed the fuel filter. I installed bleed and pressurized the fuel system and don't see any leaks. I has been only one day since I did this and hope this cures the problem I was having. How'd this work out, did it cure the leak? Just curious as my filter head tried the crybaby routine over the weekend.

Author:	Endurance [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:53 pm ]
Post subject:
Was any of y'alls filters dirty at all?

Author:	BVCRD [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 3:26 pm ]
Post subject:
Endurance wrote: Was any of y'alls filters dirty at all? I didn't know what to expect. I guess it depends on the quality of fuel you buy. Mine was sort of light greyish in color compared to the white of the new one. Don't know if that is good or bad, but I'd say about average. Got NO water out of it though in 23,000 miles. I caught all that came out of the filter in a glass jar for inspection.

Author:	retmil46 [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 12:51 am ]
Post subject:
This filter I just replaced with the New Holland had right at 10,000 miles on it. It was dark dirt brown. Got some water and dirt out the drain, even more of both when I turned it upside down after removing it. The current issue of one of the new diesel mags, "8 Lug Diesel Truck", has an article on replacing the fuel filter on a Duramax. The filter had 15K miles on it, and had so much crap built up in the bottom that it wouldn't even drain when they completely removed the petcock. They had to remove the filter and turn it upside down to drain all the crud out. They had a pic of what came out of that filter. If you can get a copy of the mag, take a good look at that pic. Looks the same as what comes out of my Permacool prefilter if I remove and upend it after only 3000 miles. That in a nutshell should tell you just how poor our local diesel fuel supply is.

Author:	Endurance [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:25 am ]
Post subject:
What is the part#? I tried to look it up in the 05 KJ pdf parts catalog but it shows multiple part# for a bunch of parts. Which one do I need? Thanks

Author:	LanduytG [ Wed Mar 07, 2007 6:58 am ]
Post subject:
If anyone needs the complete filter head I have the one I used to take measurements with for the Cat filter. Brand new with the filter for $110 shipped. Greg

Author:	Goglio704 [ Wed May 09, 2007 7:08 pm ]
Post subject:
I finally got around to dissecting my old, leaky fuel heater. Note that one of the connections has been hot and is burnt off... Click picture for larger view.

Author:	BiodieselJeep.com [ Thu May 10, 2007 1:27 pm ]
Post subject:	Clear fuel lines?
On my VW's there is a clear section of fuel line after the filter that lets you see how much air is in there. A few bubbles is generally considered standard. It sure would help on the CRD to help with leaks and to see if you were headed to a fuel heater meltdown from too much air in there. I wonder what kind of plastic that is? I should be able to fashion something if I knew which plastics were safe to use... I do recall someone also had made a custom glass tube...that guy was a glass blower by trade, though.

Author:	chadhargis [ Thu May 10, 2007 2:04 pm ]
Post subject:
What I've read regarding air in the fuel lines made me paranoid, so I bled the filter head by pumping it up, then opening the bleeder cap. I got a lot of air out. Then I got an idea. I grabbed my old retired brake bleeder cup (I use a vaccum bleeder now), and I popped it on the bleed valve. I opened the bleed valve and pumped until it was a solid stream of fuel with no bubbles.

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Author:	oldnavy [ Wed May 09, 2007 9:03 pm ]
Post subject:
retmil46 wrote: This filter I just replaced with the New Holland had right at 10,000 miles on it. It was dark dirt brown. Got some water and dirt out the drain, even more of both when I turned it upside down after removing it. The current issue of one of the new diesel mags, "8 Lug Diesel Truck", has an article on replacing the fuel filter on a Duramax. The filter had 15K miles on it, and had so much crap built up in the bottom that it wouldn't even drain when they completely removed the petcock. They had to remove the filter and turn it upside down to drain all the crud out. They had a pic of what came out of that filter. If you can get a copy of the mag, take a good look at that pic. Looks the same as what comes out of my Permacool prefilter if I remove and upend it after only 3000 miles. That in a nutshell should tell you just how poor our local diesel fuel supply is. Most of the dirty fuel with crap in it that I have seen in cars over the last few years has been MB's with metal tanks with corrision problems or critter growth. The crossion problems always looked like fuel filter had mud & water in them, same with older Chevy PU truck I help a friend with. However if you are not careful or unlucky and buy at the wrong place, that is what happens. I bought fuel one time just north of the KY state line in Ohio and the place must have been dumping used motor oil in their diesel tank, because about 2 miles down the road I was putting out a smoke screen that you would not believe. I had black soot over the VW NB TDI from the back glass and rear fenders back, by the time I home.

Author:	skywarn [ Thu May 10, 2007 1:38 pm ]
Post subject:
be very carefull of replacing fuel lines if your running bio... it will eat them....

Author:	oldnavy [ Thu May 10, 2007 2:01 pm ]
Post subject:
skywarn wrote: be very carefull of replacing fuel lines if your running bio... it will eat them.... Tygon can be had at McMaster/Carr.com, I have some on the shelf, been using it for years on my MB's and it is Bio fuel approved. I have it in clear a yellow tint, and it is great watching the fuel flow and comes in metric or inch. I plan on putting a piece of it in the CRD in a couple of weeks when the wife swaps out the CRD for the MB.